RDA RDA with copper
- Thread starter Mavrik1
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
You mean the 510 connection? Electricity is only as strong as it's weakest link so really having anything more conductive than the rest of the circuit is pointless. Having something less conductive is a problem. If you made a coil from 22g kanthal but added 28g extensions to it, it would act as an entire 28g coil, unless it burned up. Copper mods and atomizers are more of a way to get rid of voltage drop through the many connections. If you're trying to get a better voltage drop out of an RTA, get a hybrid with direct connection to the post. FYI I'm an electrical engineer
The Tobh look to be all stainless as well except where it contacts to the positive side battery.
Stainless steel is resistive, allot of power is wasted using stainless steel as an electrical conduit (addy body, etc).
Watts are wasted pushing though the stainless resistive load (basically creating a heater), some of the addy heat comes from this. I'm looking to put all the battery power to only the coil.
Conductive Materials or Metal Conductivity - TIBTECH innovations -
Stainless steel is resistive, allot of power is wasted using stainless steel as an electrical conduit (addy body, etc).
Watts are wasted pushing though the stainless resistive load (basically creating a heater), some of the addy heat comes from this. I'm looking to put all the battery power to only the coil.
Conductive Materials or Metal Conductivity - TIBTECH innovations -
I don't understand your reasoning. I have a hybrid plume veil and unfortunately I've melted the tops of 3 batteries. Are you attempting to push more wattage?
Seems you want a copper mod with copper 510 threading, then a copper deck atty with copper pos. Pin?
Something like the hybrid plume veil is what I was seeking, brass is a better conductor than stainless, not as good as copper or the top dog, silver. If your melting battery tops, switch to copper connectors, stronger springs, etc. Or maybe a conductive gel. Your drawing an arch.
My reasoning is efficiency, stainless steel is resistive and there is quite a bit of it between the 510 connector and coil (depending on addy).
Have a build I like in a Nimbus, I used the exact coil/build in my Lemo and I had to use an extra volt to get the same vape (higher wattage needed). This is because of the added resistance of the larger/longer Lemo body/pathways between the 510 and coil. My battery drain allot quicker with the Lemo body verses the Nimbus. The higher the wattage one wants to use, the more inefficient the stainless steel pathways become in the circuit. Using random numbers to make a point; say your vaping at 20 watts, the coil is probably only seeing 15 watts of that power, the rest is being absorbed by the stainless body/pathways.
My reasoning is efficiency, stainless steel is resistive and there is quite a bit of it between the 510 connector and coil (depending on addy).
Have a build I like in a Nimbus, I used the exact coil/build in my Lemo and I had to use an extra volt to get the same vape (higher wattage needed). This is because of the added resistance of the larger/longer Lemo body/pathways between the 510 and coil. My battery drain allot quicker with the Lemo body verses the Nimbus. The higher the wattage one wants to use, the more inefficient the stainless steel pathways become in the circuit. Using random numbers to make a point; say your vaping at 20 watts, the coil is probably only seeing 15 watts of that power, the rest is being absorbed by the stainless body/pathways.
Sort of, basically what you said, but plated with stainless steel. Copper emits fumes when it gets close to melting temps.
Well there are some authentic atty makers using oxygen free copper, for a device to fire that atty, there's a couple that fit your bill...Stringray for one. I too want the least voltage drop out of my devices, I use a copper stringray with silver plated pins. Even removed magnets and use rubber o-rings for the rebound in my switch. At a .25 load on 4.17 volts, I have a .61 voltage drop witch I am quite proud of.
Last edited:
Here is a quicky mod I did to the Lemo, I eliminated the resistance of the lower part of the body. I'm thinking of drilling holes to insert copper wire to reduce resistance closer to the posts. The main body doesn't have to be made of all copper, just have copper pathways to the coil.
I can understand wanting to get the most power to your coil but I myself wouldn't want any copper in mt atty coming in contact with my juice. Copper contains lead which may emit gasses when heated. While it's kind of a controversial topic now, I still prefer not to take the risk.
This is the stingray your talking about? Looks to me the copper is in all the wrong places. You don't want copper inside the heat chamber and it doesn't look like the coil deck is copper.
Looks like I'm looking at this wrong, the copper parts are for the battery.
Looks like I'm looking at this wrong, the copper parts are for the battery.
Last edited:
The stringray is the mech not the atty. Are you using mech or regulated power? If its a mech, most of your voltage drop occurs in the mech.
I'm not melting batteries from drawing an arc, if that's what you're saying. I'm melting batteries because I'm running a hybrid on .09 builds. You do realize that the connections on the battery itself is not copper so you'll never have perfect conductivity. The SS people use to manufacture attys is usually mixed, same with most every metal used for APVs. They're alloys, like 302, 311, etc. By the way you'll never get your copper hot enough to emit toxic fumes, I do it all the time when I design 3 phase power to large commercial buildings.
- Status
