READYxWICK for non cotton people
- Thread starter Big Hitter
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I use that winder 2nd from the smallest, it's about 1/16th, but I do a spaced coil instead of the tight wraps super shows, then I insert the coil like they show in the rba video using the angle cut and twist method. I finish by using the smallest winder and run it through the hollow center of the wick to open it up and make sure it's got good contact wit the coils.
Thanks, FB...wasn't sure whether to wind around wick or not. I use the Gizmo now, but wasn't clear on the rest. 
So I will only need the slim wick, correct?
So I will only need the slim wick, correct?
I have started using flat ribbon A1 Kanthal Wire to rebuild my Kanger heads (ProTank 2 mini) and wow does it make a huge difference in vapor production and taste, I'm using the Flat Ribbon A1 Kanthal wire, size 0.4 x 0.1! I don't know if you could make a micro coil out of it though, I'm using either 1mm wicks and doing 5/6 wraps I'm getting 1.6 ohms. The next size up on the ribbon kanthal would probably get you to sub ohms...
correct 2mm stuff if you like 1/16 inch coils like I doThanks, FB...wasn't sure whether to wind around wick or not. I use the Gizmo now, but wasn't clear on the rest.
So I will only need the slim wick, correct?
Oh and
I tried wrapping with around the wick with the coil gizmo stuck through the center and always end up chew it up. So I wrap first and then insert.
If you watch the RBA video where he first has problems with the wick and switches hands at 12:14 in the video. that was an issue with righty tighty, lefty loosey .
you see him twist the wrong way, you need to think of the wick as a bolt and the coil as a nut. If he had twisted the other way then the wraps in the coil would have pulled the wick in. Instead the way he twisting caused the wraps to push the coil back out, when he switched hands he match the twist to the coil wraps
I tried wrapping with around the wick with the coil gizmo stuck through the center and always end up chew it up. So I wrap first and then insert.
If you watch the RBA video where he first has problems with the wick and switches hands at 12:14 in the video. that was an issue with righty tighty, lefty loosey .
you see him twist the wrong way, you need to think of the wick as a bolt and the coil as a nut. If he had twisted the other way then the wraps in the coil would have pulled the wick in. Instead the way he twisting caused the wraps to push the coil back out, when he switched hands he match the twist to the coil wraps
Thanks, I noticed that from you mentioning it earlier in this thread. I read through the first 20 pages, then skipped to the last few...I'll catch the rest soon!
Geez thanks for the post FB I just pulled out 1/2 a bottle of Brown Bomber from 12/2013 I had in the back of the juice bin...what a treat!
Yes, you can san! Synthetics like Nextel (RxW) are far easier to thread into a coil that's symmetrical.
Back in Feb I introduced the principle of tension (strain, stretch) on ECF as a means to get new vapers making coils quickly. Electrically efficient coils. A microcoil goes a long way but its the bonding of the alumina oxide layers at pulsing that perfects the "contact" in contact coils. If you allow nature to help, you can reach a state of adhesion using tension which helps ensure that the coil turns are in as perfect contact as possible. Here's a snapshot of the method which is somewhat self-explanatory…
The pic shows one type of hand-hold using the edge of the coil as a fulcrum. More hand pressure can be applied by rotating the
hand palm down as you wind and using more thumb pressure to pull away from the coil. The human brain can detect differences so minute that with just a few winds you will start to discern the exact point that adhesion occurs. It's rather amazing.
This applies of course to ribbon wire. The mass is wider and so the tendency for turns to separate but it's doable, if somewhat easier with wider gauges. I clamp my flat-wire t.m.c.'s overnight after winding. This helps reinforce the rigidity before I even attempt a set. On the Kanger series using the methods of localization described on these two threads flat-wire builds should be a snap. Just keep it on the drill bit, drill blank, etc. throughout the install and and pulse to achieve a perfect installation. Actually easier than on the rather unstable platform I prefer for ribbon, the Immortalizer.
Jigs as in super_X's video are extremely useful for flat-wire and thick gauges but it's more difficult to feel whether you've reached the point of adhesion or not. If not, you may have gaps often not visible to the eye. They will not always resolve by squeezing the wind together with or without a ceramic tweezer during pulsing. That my friend is what we call a short in the microcoil realm and why merely torching is not the answer. The more imperfections (shorts) in a microcoil the less the efficiency (more hotspots, wire heating air).
I prefer to use a pin vise and drill blank rather than the screwdriver pictured. And a .07" diameter is the largest that will fit in a PT2 single coil head. That will allow RxW the greatest amount of room to expand when saturated. You may need it with ribbon. A 1/16" may fall behind as too compressed. I haven't done the extent of testing with flat-wire to know for sure without knowing some power requirements from you.
A last tip, to refine the methods of localization, symmetry, termination and tension you may wish to visit the threads…
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html
Please feel free to tap me on the shoulder should you need help.
Good luck san.
This applies of course to ribbon wire. The mass is wider and so the tendency for turns to separate but it's doable, if somewhat easier with wider gauges. I clamp my flat-wire t.m.c.'s overnight after winding. This helps reinforce the rigidity before I even attempt a set. On the Kanger series using the methods of localization described on these two threads flat-wire builds should be a snap. Just keep it on the drill bit, drill blank, etc. throughout the install and and pulse to achieve a perfect installation. Actually easier than on the rather unstable platform I prefer for ribbon, the Immortalizer.
Jigs as in super_X's video are extremely useful for flat-wire and thick gauges but it's more difficult to feel whether you've reached the point of adhesion or not. If not, you may have gaps often not visible to the eye. They will not always resolve by squeezing the wind together with or without a ceramic tweezer during pulsing. That my friend is what we call a short in the microcoil realm and why merely torching is not the answer. The more imperfections (shorts) in a microcoil the less the efficiency (more hotspots, wire heating air).
I prefer to use a pin vise and drill blank rather than the screwdriver pictured. And a .07" diameter is the largest that will fit in a PT2 single coil head. That will allow RxW the greatest amount of room to expand when saturated. You may need it with ribbon. A 1/16" may fall behind as too compressed. I haven't done the extent of testing with flat-wire to know for sure without knowing some power requirements from you.
A last tip, to refine the methods of localization, symmetry, termination and tension you may wish to visit the threads…
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/463771-protank-cotton-rebuild-way-i-do.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html
Please feel free to tap me on the shoulder should you need help.
Good luck san.
Attachments
Last edited:
If I want a vape with less TH than more and great flavor, what ohm should I shoot for? Also, should my coil be closer to the juice hole? I'm using 28 gauge Kenthal.
Don't know about the ohms, but for better flavor with less TH you want the coil as close to the deck of your atty as possible. Of course, don't touch the deck unless your using a RM2.
Thanks. I built a really ugly spaced coil and put the new wick in. Oye. Learning curve. I do notice more flavor than cotton, though.
***Actually, a LOT more flavor. Hmmm
***Actually, a LOT more flavor. Hmmm
Last edited:
I was looking into xc-116 for my eBaron's a few months ago and was so bummed when I found out it was to thick. I get to try it now!! WooHoo! And Michelle your last comment was very helpful lol!
Ok i have to ask here because i've heard a couple different things, both of them multiple times so i'm confused.
where should the coil be for the most flavor? at the air hole - below the air hole - above the air hole?
I've actually heard people say all 3 for better flavor.
I know higher coil = more throat hit. i don't mind throat hit either way. i just want to know how to maximize flavor in this sense
and i've experimented a tiny bit but stupidly with different flavors...
where should the coil be for the most flavor? at the air hole - below the air hole - above the air hole?
I've actually heard people say all 3 for better flavor.
I know higher coil = more throat hit. i don't mind throat hit either way. i just want to know how to maximize flavor in this sense
and i've experimented a tiny bit but stupidly with different flavors...
Ok i have to ask here because i've heard a couple different things, both of them multiple times so i'm confused.
where should the coil be for the most flavor? at the air hole - below the air hole - above the air hole?
I've actually heard people say all 3 for better flavor.
I know higher coil = more throat hit. i don't mind throat hit either way. i just want to know how to maximize flavor in this sense
and i've experimented a tiny bit but stupidly with different flavors...
It is a tough question to answer for me because I use a few different atty's and while they are similar they behave just a tad bit different. There are also other variables to consider. The type (flavor) of your juice. Coil position in to the post or out to the air hole. I tend to start will all my coils lower to the deck and raise for throat hit. If my vape is weak I either need a battery change or the coil needs raised. If I was to pull all the tops I imagine they are fairly close to being centered on the air hole. I want airflow both under and over the coil most of the time. If you get it to high off the deck you will need so squonk more often and longer which could lead to juice out the air hole if chain vaping and everything is hot.
There really doesn't appear to be a right or wrong answer just different experiences with their build, their juice, and their taste.
I am fortunate to have multiple REO's so I can set them with a flavor and a build and leave it alone. Since I use RxW I get a consistent vape time and time again without any fuss at all and never have to change anything.
Good luck on finding what is right for you.
Think of how the air flow in your RBA. IT comes in through the air hole and then bends up to go out the drip tip. As you lower the coil and pull it away from the air hole more air will flow into the drip tip without passing directly around the coil. This results in a mellower hit and a little less flavor. I found for best flavor get close to the air hole and even or a little lower. Then if the hit is to hot or harsh raise your ohms a wrap at a time until you hit your sweet spot. I like about 1.2 or 1.3 for ADV and use .9 to 1.0 for a little more kick while drinking.
Great answer. I like the deductive process here. And the suggestion to get the air flow right then target the resistance. I think that 1.2-1.4Ω range is the ideal median for most moderate dripping. Good thing too that you can throw that right onto a variable.
I agree too raising the coil can cool the airstream. But you absolutely nail it when you say proximity to airflow yields flavor. You have to have airflow to promote phase conversion from fluid to vapor. The more vapor the more flavor potentially. This also makes the vape cooler and mellower. But just enough, or you just thin the resulting vapor production.
Wicks like Nextel and KGD need a lot of air. Especially if given the power to reach their potential. Or they flood.
Seek air!
Good luck.
I get a surprise every once in a while with popping sounds and hot juice shooting up my drip tip. Is this normal? It never happened with cotton.
Michelle I get the same thing in my RM2 and I'm using cotton. I thought maybe I was over squonking or something.
- Status
