Really need to understand Clearomizer Design and Power Capabilities better

[Javamon]

I tried to explore this before, but I haven't really read enough to get this down.
I need to understand clearomizer design and how the different designs affect power capabilities.

I once noted that the power charts all show red/no-go areas for wattages many of you talk about running.

1. Are the power chart guidelines specific to single coil clearomizer designs?
2. Does a dual coil v.s. single coil design affect the safe power range of a clearomizer?
3. My GS Air tank advertises a 3.5v to 5.5v capacity - with dual coils, 1.5ohm. So why do the power charts show the safe power range at 1.5ohm to be 3 to 3.5v?

Could one or more of you help me get a good understanding of this? Thanks.

 

[Javamon]

Cmon - help a vaping brother out.

 

[Ablonz]

as far as the power charts go, I do find them to be on point to an extent and they (coils) last a bit longer. As for single to dual coils, on single coil 8 watt setting puts 8 watts to the coil. On a dual coil the same 8 watts will deliver 4 watts to each coil. I personally do not know if the charts are for dual or single coils.....

 

[BlkWolfMidnight]

Ok,

So trying to pull apart what your asking I think I'll try and help out here..
Capacity refers to a measurement in volume, liquid or gas specifically so I'm guessing you mean range. The tank itself should have no specific range of voltage to work at so I'd guess you mean your mod has that range.

If all that is correct, then we move forward.
Clearo's, where would we be without them but a lot of factors run in to play with clero's
Airflow- no matter how much voltage or wattage you put in to that thing unless you have descent airflow to keep those coils cooking then its a loosing battle. Remember the higher the voltage the more airflow you'll need.
Wicking- Ah the bane of my issues with most clearo's on the market today (see my review on the SilverPlay if you want a sub ohm capable clero). The material has to feed the coils fast enough and your channels have to keep up with the flow. Keep that voltage down if your experiencing burning tastes.
Coil design- Unless your going for the sub ohm micro coil build then there is no reason why you would want to or have to build a compact coil, experiment with micro spaced coils for better vapor production and you may find you need less heat to achieve the same result. The charts were based on spaced coils and not compressed micro coils ( Gas like a liquid needs places to escape, the idea here is if you were to fill a tube with water, which would drain faster a solid tube or one with holes in it).

Your wattage will be divided amongst 2 coils but in the true nature of things that really does not matter as the mean output is still the total sum of the 2 coils (got to love science).

 

[Javamon]

Thank you. That helps.

I'm still, though, not following how the typical voltages/wattages on the charts track to what everyone is trying to do here.

Again, question 3 is kind of the net of it all for me. The manufacturer talks about that particular dual coil, 1.5ohm design as a tank for 3.5 to 5.5v.
Meanwhile, the power charts don't show Safe ranges after about 3.5v for 1.5ohm resistance. It's a big discrepancy. I know people are going to tell me to forget the charts, but - I can't.

I'm looking to truly understand how to determine the safe range of my upgraded setup. None of what I read here tracks to what the charts try to say.
On one hand, I don't want to push it to where I am inhaling something unsafe or unnecessarily beating on the coils and wick.
On the other hand, when I experiment with pushing it up a bit, I Do enjoy the temp, throat hit, and flavor.

 

[Javamon]

Ok, I think I'm going to net it out myself.
The discrepancy between my experiences, the power charts, and the inexplicably high numbers people quote here is this:

1. The power charts, especially the 2.0 power chart, are indeed good baselines. They are not antiquated or irrelevant.

2. The key making up the difference between this chart and the mega numbers people quote here is: the bright red zone v.s. the dark red zone.
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png
Lots of people here get away with a few steps into the bright red zone. Allowing the bright red zone as an acceptable zone means there's lots more room to play with these Back To The Future Jigawatt devices.

3. Dark red, though, really is a range where you ask for trouble.

Is this the deal?