I am fairly new to vaping and new to rebuilding my coils. I rebuilt a pro tank/unitank coil at 1.8Ω I used a 2mm wick to wrap the coils around and then used two 1mm wicks for flavor wicks and it hits fine and produces vapor good but it is leaking like crazy. Do I need to not use the flavor wicks or what else can I try to get one that doesn't leak and if I don't use the flavor wicks wouldn't that leave a space for juice to just run in? Oh I an using a silica wick material. Any help from the pros would be great because I am out of pre built coils. Oh and 32g kanthol (sp) wire.
Rebuilt coil leaking now what?
- Thread starter Ravynshadow
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First, congratulations on rebuilding a Kanger pro tank coil. Those are not easy to rebuild. I recommend getting an RSST along with an RSST-TCI from FusionsMods.com. The RSST is an easy device to use as a first RBA. It is a Genisis type device.
As for the leak, as Rickajho asked, did you put the silicon cap back on? I presume that you have rebuilt with all the proper parts in their proper place. If so, try adding a wick by itself above the coil and along the groove (opening) where the e-liquid enters the atty. Lay the wick flat and let a little bit (say 1 mm) protrude from either side of the opening. If that doesn't work try some cotton in its place. Roll a piece of cotton into a string-like shape and lay it like I described above. If you're using cotton, let it protrude a little more than a wick would.
Are you using a juice with very little or no VG content? If so, it is likely that the juice is very thin and this could be causing the leaks to occur. The additional wick or cotton should solve your problem, however if your juice is too thin then it might still end up flooding the atty.
As for the leak, as Rickajho asked, did you put the silicon cap back on? I presume that you have rebuilt with all the proper parts in their proper place. If so, try adding a wick by itself above the coil and along the groove (opening) where the e-liquid enters the atty. Lay the wick flat and let a little bit (say 1 mm) protrude from either side of the opening. If that doesn't work try some cotton in its place. Roll a piece of cotton into a string-like shape and lay it like I described above. If you're using cotton, let it protrude a little more than a wick would.
Are you using a juice with very little or no VG content? If so, it is likely that the juice is very thin and this could be causing the leaks to occur. The additional wick or cotton should solve your problem, however if your juice is too thin then it might still end up flooding the atty.
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Yep I put everything back on/in as it was before I took it apart and I thought I was using the same size wick that was in it when I purchased them 2mm main wick and two 1mm flavor wicks.
Juice is 70/30 it's what I always use. I will look into an RSST just a little short on funds at the moment. Even with the two flavor wicks I should try adding another wick to make it fuller? I will have to get some cotton and try it maybe I will try one 2mm flavor wick and not two 1mm wicks maybe it will fill the space up better I will try again I have also seen videos where they doubled the 2mm wick and wrapped the coil around that maybe I can try that I don't know seems overwhelming at times, I did not realize pro tank coils were any different or harder to rebuild than others. If I ever get enough money I would really like to try a phiniac but for some reason I find those type of tanks more daunting than the clearomizers pro tank type (with the coil heads ).
I guess it's the cartomizers I find more daunting for some reason.
Hey rain..
Im an old fart with arthrits in my hands....and I rebuild kangers easily.
I use 32 kanthal and cotton. Got it down to a science and they wrk flawlessly.
Going to post video soon on my method.
Good luk...BTW. Try different size of coil and wick...and "flavor" wick. Sean at Lightning Vapor has good videos.
Hoot
Im an old fart with arthrits in my hands....and I rebuild kangers easily.
I use 32 kanthal and cotton. Got it down to a science and they wrk flawlessly.
Going to post video soon on my method.
Good luk...BTW. Try different size of coil and wick...and "flavor" wick. Sean at Lightning Vapor has good videos.
Hoot
When you say leaking, do you mean that your ProTank is flooding, or is there actually juice running out of the device somewhere besides through the coil base?
When you trimmed your wicks, did you trim them exactly flush with the outer diameter of the coil post (for lack of a better term)? I've found I get better performance (less chance of flooding) if I leave enough wick to just fit inside the coil base, usually a millimeter or so sticking out from both sides.
When you trimmed your wicks, did you trim them exactly flush with the outer diameter of the coil post (for lack of a better term)? I've found I get better performance (less chance of flooding) if I leave enough wick to just fit inside the coil base, usually a millimeter or so sticking out from both sides.
Thanks
May be just bad luck. You might rebuild 5 more and they'd all have no leaking. Good news is that making a new one is cheap and it gives you practice
Maybe I haven't done very many and some of them I did were practice to get the Ω right so they never were used they only read at .8Ω so they were no good to me but now I have the number of wraps right to get 1.8Ω I will have to make a few more and see maybe just bad luck or worn out or bent parts.
Thanks everybody I have some things to try and think about to see if I can get useable coil heads.
It is flooding into the stem/battery connection part (coil base), I even took the tank off my evic and set it on a paper towel and when I came back to it there was a huge spot of juice on the towel coming from the stem part of the tank, and when I look at the bottom where you can see the bottom part of the coil it is just sopping with juice I filled the tank half full and it is now empty. When I trimmed them I made it even with the biggest part, I think this is the same thing you are talking about maybe I need to make them a little longer or shorter not to sure.
Which particular tank is it?
The only place air should be coming into a PT is through the vent hole on the bottom of the coil. You said you put the silicone cap back on the vent tube, so that seals the tube for the mouth piece up - the problem isn't there. But if it's any of the PT's you can disassemble check the o-rings placement for the glass tank, and check the glass itself for any large edge chips. Smaller imperfections in the edge of the glass are to be expected. But if there is a large chunk missing an o-ring may not be sealing that properly. Or if the o-rings are out of place - same problem. Either of those issues can mess with a PT not maintaining the needed pressure/vacuum inside the tank.
The only place air should be coming into a PT is through the vent hole on the bottom of the coil. You said you put the silicone cap back on the vent tube, so that seals the tube for the mouth piece up - the problem isn't there. But if it's any of the PT's you can disassemble check the o-rings placement for the glass tank, and check the glass itself for any large edge chips. Smaller imperfections in the edge of the glass are to be expected. But if there is a large chunk missing an o-ring may not be sealing that properly. Or if the o-rings are out of place - same problem. Either of those issues can mess with a PT not maintaining the needed pressure/vacuum inside the tank.
I read this thread earlier and decided I needed to change the cotton wicks on my protank2. They weren't bad looking but changed them anyhow---put it back together and was leaking like a sieve from the bottom (postive pin). WTH? Took it apart acouple of more times checking what I did. Finally found the bottom pin insulator had a tiny tear in it. Possibly from when I was pulling the top stem out. Couldn't see the tear until I got a magnifying glass looking.
Anyhow I just changed out the whole atomizer--back to working good again. I do have a order in for 10 extra insulators (hopefully the same) should be here this week.
Anyhow I just changed out the whole atomizer--back to working good again. I do have a order in for 10 extra insulators (hopefully the same) should be here this week.
my first rebuild i did i pulled the insulator out with needle nose pliers and ripped it
Actually I am using it in a unitank but I still will check all the o rings that might be the problem.
I know the center pin is in right and the rubber I put the small end in first so that is right, might just be bad these coils that I am rebuilding some seemed a little different from the time is took them out of the pack there were two of them that for some reason made it to hard of a draw usually pro tanks are a bit of an airy draw but for two of the coil heads that wasn't the case.
I checked the insulator when I put it back together but I really didn't check it that good, I just gave it a quick look so I may have missed something small I will have to pull it back apart and if I can't find anything I will probably just throw this one out and try again like someone stated earlier they are cheap to rebuild so if none of these things work it's probably for the best not to keep trying to rebuild it.
Thanks everyone for your help everyone here makes it nice for newbies to learn.
possiblly you wrapped the wick too tightly with your coil rendering your 2mm wick much smaller? this could be a source for leaks, also ensure all your coill wraps are centered within the coil head. i have been doing this for about 20 kangers and haven't had any real issues.
Ordered them from Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T - Lightning Vapes hope they fit okay.
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