Received DNA20 Board...conductive glue instead of solder???

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DEATHTOCIGS

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Just received my DNA20 board. WOW is this thing small. Not sure I can make solder connections that tiny without joining connections I don't want joined. Anyone ever tried conductive glue? I saw a bottle of it at Radio Shack and the guy there told me it is great for tiny jobs where soldering is difficult. Hate to experiment on my DNA20 though. If it won't work, any advise on how to solder these without joining the adjoining connections together would be appreciated.
 

WillyB

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Or you sell it and pick up one these.

Variable Wattage Power Regulation With A Brilliant One-Button User Interface Is Finally Available in the USA | The Nivel Chip

Note the color coded wires which are already attached. Plus it's got a single button interface/fire arrangement. No time and added expense trying to position the DNA's +/- buttons.

xnwll.jpeg


Also note there is no floppy wiring harness for the display (which has been a source of many problems with the DNA), and getting the display without some slanting should be a cakewalk compared to the DNA,

More expensive? Yes, but if you put any value your time it's not.

Food for thought.
 
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bapgood

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Or you sell it and pick up one these.

Variable Wattage Power Regulation With A Brilliant One-Button User Interface Is Finally Available in the USA | The Nivel Chip

Note the color coded wires which are already attached. Plus it's got a single button interface/fire arrangement. No time and added expense trying to position the DNA's +/- buttons.

xnwll.jpeg


Also note there is no floppy wiring harness (which has been a source of many problems with the DNA), and getting the display without some slanting should be a cakewalk compared to the DNA,

More expensive? Yes, but if you put any value your time it's not.

Food for thought.

Wayyyy off topic...but since its seems the original topic has been covered I will proceed :D

I like the DNA20 a lot....like all the info on the screen....but the Nivel has a couple of features that would be nice on the DNA20 (usage counter for accurate battery stats and polarity protection) but the single button would drive me nuts and is the only thing that has stopped me trying one.

Question - Does the Nivel use PWM?
 

jmarkus

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Wayyyy off topic...but since its seems the original topic has been covered I will proceed :D

I like the DNA20 a lot....like all the info on the screen....but the Nivel has a couple of features that would be nice on the DNA20 (usage counter for accurate battery stats and polarity protection) but the single button would drive me nuts and is the only thing that has stopped me trying one.

Question - Does the Nivel use PWM?

having had the semovar module, there was no detectable pulsing. i also tested with a voltmeter and no pulsing there either and was super accurate and a solid reading.
 

WillyB

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Wayyyy off topic...
Why is it off topic? The dude can't solder and wants to glue on the the wires. Here's an alternative with the wires already on. The Nivel is also a mature assembly that's been out in the field for over a year.

I like the DNA20 a lot....like all the info on the screen
Didn't you manage to trash at least one?

Any efficient assembly made uses PWM. The Buzz Pro, the Provari, all the Evercool mods, all the Murata OKR mods, the original modder's booster , the TI 04050 again PWM. Newer efficient regulated 'switching' power supplies... PWM.
 

Sad Society

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I just got the DNA20 and it's still in the box. I won't touch until I get around to mod it.

But I've been thinking the same thing about soldering in a space that small. I know it can be done because others have done it. But first I suggest practicing soldering...that's right...'Practicing Soldering' I suggest buying a board like in this link Hobby Engineering: Electronic Circuit Prototyping Boards Section It has .1" spaced holes like the DNA and get some wire and your soldering kit and practice.

Another option...but I don't know how good it would be. Is using .1" solderless headers like in this link https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10527

What do you guys think about solderless headers? I was thinking maybe soldering the wire onto the header and then cover it with heat shrink. Or do you think it would just be better to solder the wire to the board?
 

bapgood

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Why is it off topic? The dude can't solder and wants to glue on the the wires. Here's an alternative with the wires already on. The Nivel is also a mature assembly that's been out in the field for over a year.

I was referring to my sidetrack on the Nivel chip. I thought your suggestion was a good one.


Didn't you manage to trash at least one?

Yes, but completely my fault....I'm waiting for a 3D printer to show up at work to make the enclosure I want, so I have clear heat shrink holding things together. Heat shrink vs steel tube when knocked of the lathe bench didn't protect the screen very well :D


Any efficient assembly made uses PWM. The Buzz Pro, the Provari, all the Evercool mods, all the Murata OKR mods, the original modder's booster , the TI 04050 again PWM. Newer efficient regulated 'switching' power supplies... PWM.

I only have experience with the Evolv kick and DNA20 and Zmax. I hate the zmax!!!....the lag, the pulse, to me the vape tastes completely different. I had heard the Evolv product don't use PWM....but I don't know. All I do know is I prefer!!! whatever method Evolv uses.

Maybe the better products use a faster pulse cylce???? I was going to have an EE at work scope both the zmax and DNA just to see the difference, but I lost interest and have just been using my DNA's.
 

DrMA

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The only way to build an efficient boost converter is with PWM. The vaping performance will depend on the duty cycling, load stepping, and frequency. I'm guessing the ZMAX (which many seem to dislike) uses a 0-100% pulse modulation with a low-enough frequency to cause noticeable effects (perhaps <1kHz?).

My personal fave is the OKR-T/6 chip, which uses a 50-100 load stepping and PWM at 600kHz - there's no way you're gonna feel pulsing when it does it 600,000 times per second. The DNA is also very good - no pulsing, though it does not vape as smooth as the OKR, IMO. The difference is barely noticeable.

As a general rule, there's more flexibility with a buck topology (Vinput>Voutput) like the OKR, than a boost (Vout>Vin) like DNA and Nivel. So you'll get higher modulation frequencies, better filtering, and smoother output.
 

Covert

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I love my DNA 20 had no problems soldering anything. The only potential pitfall is the ribbon connector for the screen, and in my case mounting said screen without any sort of angle problems when finished. I have put together two so far and both screens are crooked just a lil bit lol. As far as display and ease of use the DNA wins hands down.
 

DEATHTOCIGS

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I saw another product at Lowes called solder-it paste that comes in a syringe. Apparently the paste is made of powdered solder metal and silver that is mixed with flux to make the paste. Claims to be 5X stronger than regular solder with excellent conductivity. Says its great for electronics. Put on the paste and heat with a soldering iron or flame until it liquifies, remove heat and hardens instantly. Looks like it would be easier to work with on such small spaces. Anyone ever tried this?
 

mamu

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dude... just learn to solder. :laugh:

There is nothing out there that is as good as flux and solder for joining connections in our mods.

Many of us had absolutely no soldering skills when we first started modding and learned by reading the tips for soldering thread here, online tutorials, and youtube videos, and practice practice practice. Take the time to do that and you'll be up and going in no time.
 
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