Recommendation for ProVari 2.5

[MudVaper]

Soooo- getting a gift of a Provari 2.5 next week (yes, I am a proud tootler) As the ProVari will be free to me - am looking for recommendation on a decent but not too expensive tank - say, under $50 total.

Not interested in going sub ohm right now.

Never built one myself but am open to a simple build. Yes, I still get confused over the lingo and how it relates to my personal vaping, lol. However, after vaping off an REO clone squonk box with a chalice clone, the cotton wick can't be beat as far as warmth and flavor goes. The $50 would have to cover everything, including a volt meter.

My current go-to throughout the day is an eleaf istick (usually set at 5.5 volts) with an Kanger aerotank.

My only real gripe is that I tend to chain vape and the juice tends to overheat fairly quickly. Would like to get a little more time on it before I have to put it down.

 

[BreSha6869]

I really like Aspire Nautilus tanks or Kanger Subtanks with my Provaris.

 

[suprtrkr]

I'd suggest an Aspire Nautilus or a GS Air for tootling. When you save up the money, then buy a Kabuki. That's if you want replaceable coils. If you want to build, try a Kayfun clone. You can get one for 20 bucks,leaving 30 in your budget to buy an ohmmeter and some wire and cotton (rayon).

 

[MudVaper]

Yes, an aspire is my fall-back if not convinced of anything else.

Heard and seen plenty of good about both Kayfun and Kabuki - both budget busters for me right now but - seems almost criminal to put a cheap tank on a provari - which I hope will be an exquisite vape.

Maybe I could talk my Mr. into it - he's kicking back with a few gin and tonics and bought me the provari without batting an eye BEFORE he hit the sauce, lol.

 

[Hulamoon]

I really like Aspire Nautilus tanks or Kanger Subtanks with my Provaris.

I second Aspire Nautilus. Less time tinkering, more time enjoying. I have 4 right now and buy a load of replacement heads at 1.6 when there's a decent sale on.

 

[madangus]

The nautilus is a good choice as would the kayfun if you want to start coiling.

The kabuki is a much nicer looking tank than the rest in my opinion. It also has much better airflow than the standard nautilus, that and the rest of the design give a great flavour compared to the standard nautilus.

The standard nautilus is a great tank do not get me wrong, the kabuki just improves on it leaps and bounds. Maybe try the standard and if you like it save fir the kabuki as others mentioned.

I would avoid the subtank or anything sub ohm, it will need more watts than the 2.5 does. And having started on an istick and subtank myself, the 2.5 and nautilus/kabuki/kayfun offers more flavour, better battery life i found.

 

[madangus]

And congrats i am sure the 2.5 will make you very happy what kind di you get?

 

[MudVaper]

AUTHENTIC ProVari 2.5 Variable Voltage Mod

Silver, because they didn't jack you extra I got the extension cap because I'm trying to keep the gear I get typical. Early bday present. My husband NEVER ASKS me what I want, for some reason he did this year, and I didn't even have to drop hints

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Next time check with Provape first, 2.5's - $80, no extra cost for body or led color.

Aspire nautilus, Kanger subtank mini or one of the Eleaf Gs air models least expensive of the bunch / $9 ~ $15 & good vape.

 

[MudVaper]

Next time check with Provape first, 2.5's - $80, no extra cost for body or led color.

Aspire nautilus, Kanger subtank mini or one of the Eleaf Gs air models least expensive of the bunch / $9 ~ $15 & good vape.

Yes, I saw that AFTER it was all said and done. He asked what I wanted, I told him, he found that, asked it that was it, I said yes and he bought it. Usually I spend hours, sometimes over several days, pricing stuff.

Funny, he complains about the dough I spend on vaping, but never said a peep for over 25 years about the cost of analogues. My habit was close to $500 a month. I still get flustered and light up occasionally, but it never lasts more than a few mild drags and I want to gag. He still smokes though.

 

[Plumes.91]

have fun finding tank + volt meter under $50. better get over to vaporbank for their sale! lol. I would recommend a Kayfun4 or 3.1, or an isub, isubG or isubAPEX. All cheap, but good-quality tanks. Or, if you want to go with todays most popular tank, grab a Kanger Subtank. everyone loves em. I happen to like my ego-ONE tank as-well, and I think you would definitely enjoy the Ego-ONE as well.... All three are great tanks!

Why do you need a volt meter? Your Provari will tell you the volts u are at. As-will your iStick. You don't really need volt meter, nor do you really NEED an OHM/resistance meter, because you HAVE regulated mods. You really only need to check the resistance/ohms of your build if you're planning to directly fire them on a mechanical mod. Otherwise, just use your regulated mods to check the resistance/ohms (if u want... i mean, if you WANT a nice ohm-reading/building platform, by-all-means, grab one up! they are pricey, usually, although you can get them sent from china for around 6-10 bucks, i think?

GL and ENJOY your vaping journey.

 

[MudVaper]

have fun finding tank + volt meter under $50. better get over to vaporbank for their sale! lol. I would recommend a Kayfun4 or 3.1, or an isub, isubG or isubAPEX. All cheap, but good-quality tanks. Or, if you want to go with todays most popular tank, grab a Kanger Subtank. everyone loves em. I happen to like my ego-ONE tank as-well, and I think you would definitely enjoy the Ego-ONE as well.... All three are great tanks!

Why do you need a volt meter? Your Provari will tell you the volts u are at. As-will your iStick. You don't really need volt meter, nor do you really NEED an OHM/resistance meter, because you HAVE regulated mods. You really only need to check the resistance/ohms of your build if you're planning to directly fire them on a mechanical mod. Otherwise, just use your regulated mods to check the resistance/ohms (if u want... i mean, if you WANT a nice ohm-reading/building platform, by-all-means, grab one up! they are pricey, usually, although you can get them sent from china for around 6-10 bucks, i think?

GL and ENJOY your vaping journey.

It's my understanding a beginner-builder has a high potential of harming themselves or their devises w/o checking the voltage before testing on your vape.

I'd just get a cheap one on eBay or something like that if I went that route anyway.

 

[Plumes.91]

If you already OWN an iSTICK, and you are about to own a Provari... then you literally have two volt meters already bro... The mods themselves check the voltage that you are at. & display it, along w/ the wattage... & IDK about the iStick, but I know for-sure that the Provari will tell you the ohms/resistance of your coil, as-well. So, you already OWN a voltage meter & a resistance meter, in your two mods. Welcome to building, with regulated mods.

 

[Kaezziel]

If you already OWN an iSTICK, and you are about to own a Provari... then you literally have two volt meters already bro... The mods themselves check the voltage that you are at. & display it, along w/ the wattage... & IDK about the iStick, but I know for-sure that the Provari will tell you the ohms/resistance of your coil, as-well. So, you already OWN a voltage meter & a resistance meter, in your two mods. Welcome to building, with regulated mods.

Look at it this way... she is attempting to do things the safe and proper way. You are trying to dissuade her from her decision and convince her to do it your way... I've been vaping for over 6 years, and you'd better believe that I have a resistance meter that I check my build on before I put it on ANY mod... regulated or otherwise. Why? Because all mods are not created equal... Mods are not designed as resistance meters, they are designed to provide a voltage to a coil. Reading resistance is a secondary function that is used as an added safety device. That means that they do not have to be accurate to the Nth degree. This is the very reason that I own one of these. I also own a 4-wire milli-ohm meter (because I'm an electronics technician) that I have used to verify the accuracy of the reader... and I've seen mods with built-in readers that were as much as 0.16 ohms off. So if she wants to purchase a stand-alone resistance/voltage reader, then don't give her such a hard time over it...

 

[ppeeble]

There's some good advice above. But.
Your Provari is limited to what it will fire so subohm-ing is not an option anyway. Your shiny new Provari has a resistance reader better than most Chinese dedicated ohm readers. Your Provari will not allow you to fire anything that could be dangerous. In other words you do not require a dedicated resistance checker for the type of vaping you will be doing.....
A good clone Kayfun (or lite) will be perfect on the Provari. The Kabuki is an excellent attie but it is only as good as the coils you buy for it. In my opinion Aspire coils are very hit or miss.
Congratulations on your new 2.5

 

[leftyandsparky]

Congratulations on owning a provari! I just got a mini about a week ago! For my tank I went old school on it I have protank 2 they cost under $13 and a pack of 5 coils is $5 you can also get the air flow adapter for it for $5 congratulations again!

 

[Alter]

In all the post I didn't see anybody say that you have to have the coil 1.2 ohm or higher in order to fire the provari. It doesn't matter what atty you use. I have used protanks, kayfuns, russians, TFV4s and subtanks without any issues. Provari is a great unit, my provari has run for 2 1/2 years now as my go to work PV without skipping a beat. You don't need the fancy 20+ amp batts either just regular 10 amp batts but the higher amp batts work just fine.

 

[suprtrkr]

It's my understanding a beginner-builder has a high potential of harming themselves or their devises w/o checking the voltage before testing on your vape.

I'd just get a cheap one on eBay or something like that if I went that route anyway.

well said, and smart move. I am a very experienced builder and I use an ohmmeter every time. Three times, actually: once with the coils installed to see how close I got to my desired resistance, once after wicking to make sure I didn't break a wire pulling wick, and once after the barrel goes on, to make sure my build isn't so fat the coil grounded on the barrel. To be sure, this is imperative when using a mech mod; it's merely smart when using a regulated mod. You can, as you observe, buy a cheap 510 threaded ohmmeter on eBay for 10-15 bucks. After I wore out or broke about 3 of them, I bought an "ultimate" from USAOhmmeters, and it may be the best 27 bucks I have spent on vaping.

 

[suprtrkr]

Look at it this way... she is attempting to do things the safe and proper way. You are trying to dissuade her from her decision and convince her to do it your way... I've been vaping for over 6 years, and you'd better believe that I have a resistance meter that I check my build on before I put it on ANY mod... regulated or otherwise. Why? Because all mods are not created equal... Mods are not designed as resistance meters, they are designed to provide a voltage to a coil. Reading resistance is a secondary function that is used as an added safety device. That means that they do not have to be accurate to the Nth degree. This is the very reason that I own one of these. I also own a 4-wire milli-ohm meter (because I'm an electronics technician) that I have used to verify the accuracy of the reader... and I've seen mods with built-in readers that were as much as 0.16 ohms off. So if she wants to purchase a stand-alone resistance/voltage reader, then don't give her such a hard time over it...

lol, I want a 4-wire Kelvin meter so bad I can taste it

 

[TFL!]

$30.00 Lemo 2 Eleaf iSmoka Lemo 2 Rebuildable Tank Atomizer RTA
$12.00? Shiseido cotton J C Penny's
< $6.00 kanthreal wire | eBay
< $10.00 ohm meter 510 | eBay

So this would be < $60.00
There are many choices out there that would meet your needs. The Aero tank works well on the 2.5 also