Removing paint from a Reo

[tmel]

Hi,

I really don't like my metallic red reo and I'd like to remove the paint from it and turn it into a tumbled raw and or shine it up a bit. How would I go about this? Would it be a huge pain in the ... and how much time would it take roughly?

 

[Big Hitter]

No idea but sounds like a PIA ...... If it were me, I would sell it for 20-25 bucks less than new and then buy a new tumbled one

 

[tmel]

That would probably be the easiest thing. If I ever get verified..

 

[bunker0617]

I agree submit that verification form and it'll sell quick on the classifieds. The tumbled raws are awesome and for $30 bucks our so out of pocket you can get a brand new one.

 

[Commie]

If you do decide to sand it, don't use anything more coarse than 150ish grit. I did while sanding my Mini's door, and can't get the scratches out to this day

 

[tmel]

I think selling it will be the best option, sanding would probably end badly.

New is 144
Blem is 115

How much would a month old still in pristine condition Grand go for?

 

[bunker0617]

I think the classified rules on no profiteer is at least 20%off retail unless the item is no longer made.

 

[supertrunker]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/482416-repainting-reo.html#post11107160

T

 

[Commie]

I think the classified rules on no profiteer is at least 20%off retail unless the item is no longer made.

That just means you can't post with price more than 20% higher of the vendor price. So you can't charge more than 172.80 for a mechanical Reo.

 

[bunker0617]

That just means you can't post with price more than 20% higher of the vendor price. So you can't charge more than 172.80 for a mechanical Reo.

Ohhh wish I had known that a year ago.. lol

 

[pdib]

I sanded out a REO once. After trying a couple different approaches, I found that starting with 180 grit and your hand works best. Using a sanding block, sanding on a flat surface quickly made me realize the body isn't truly flat. So, by hand you get the most thorough surface contact. Don't use a power sander. It'll round over your edges and never touch the center of the face. I actually found dry sanding to go a lot faster than wet. The secret to quick results in sanding is to not stop to check your progress every seven seconds . . . .. and to keep your paper fresh. 1/2 clogged, 1/2 toothy paper will triple your project time. It's fun and satisfying, go for it!

 

[izen]

Easiest and best way (imnsho) is to beadblast it. Find a shop with a tank - shouldn't be to difficult. Takes about five minutes more or less to have it down to a nice smooth satin finish. Doing it by hand is easy enough but far more time consuming. I'd blast it, repaint it & bake it.

 

[Raynman]

Baking it isn't a good idea. This is a quote from Feisty Alice. "Not sure here either but I do know one thing because I got it straight from the Master after inquiring about him doing a baked on finish, his doing it, Clear Coat on two of my pristine tumbleds. He said the magnets and pressed in atty fitting would have to be removed or they would be ruined by his oven. So best to consult Robert if you are going to be baking the finish."

 

[Big Hitter]

I think the classified rules on no profiteer is at least 20%off retail unless the item is no longer made.

There are rules when selling ..... Huh never really looked into that ..... oops.