reo not hitting hard

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fullsleeve

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so its been a week with my reo and its been great up til the past two days. for some reason its not hiting real hard. ive tried two different brand new atomizers, two different brand new carts, and rebuilt my rba. I removed the screw and the little cover inside it and didn't see anything awkward, it looks pretty normal. ive used two different batteries, orbtronics 18650 2900 mah button tops, which I was using before. ensured they were charged and everything , im not sure what it could be. it appears to be a pretty simple device. its just not hitting hard, blowing big clouds etc. . I feel like I have to take a super long drag to get an "ok" hit as opposed to when it was new I was taking tiny drags and blowing out crazy clouds. thoughts? ideas? suggestions?
 

super_X_drifter

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Hey fullsleeve,

It's been observed that new AW IMR batteries (not ones previously used on a mech tube) paired with a new REO will nearly guarantee your mod to work as designed. Some guys have noticed and reported recently that batteries previously used in mech tube mods get scars on the buttons that causes more arcing on the firing pin, resulting in quicker oxidation of it.

I'm not saying that's what's happening in your case but wanted to mention it. :)
 

MamaTried

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Agree with all of the above.

Do NOT blow off the filing/noalox suggestions.

I recently bought a used Grand. After a week or so, it started having problems. I was on the verge of sending it into Reosmods to get it "fixed". I had heard of filing/noalox, but being an "educamated engineer", i poo-pood that as voodoo.

It got to the point where it would not fire at all, but i finally tried a dab of noalox and the next vape was perfection.

So much for my educamification...
 

pdib

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Hey fullsleeve,

It's been observed that new AW IMR batteries (not ones previously used on a mech tube) paired with a new REO will nearly guarantee your mod to work as designed. Some guys have noticed and reported recently that batteries previously used in mech tube mods get scars on the buttons that causes more arcing on the firing pin, resulting in quicker oxidation of it.

I'm not saying that's what's happening in your case but wanted to mention it. :)

What Supe said; especially with SLR builds. If you're using leftover tube-mod batteries, make sure to give them a good cleaning too! Nice and shiny on the button. 1000, 1500 grit sandpaper, then metal polish. (or just get some brand new AW 1600mAh, and vape trouble free - mind you, get the 1600s, not the 2000s for mechanical. 2000 are good for VV)

Here's the firing pin maintenance vid

 

fullsleeve

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thanks for all the advice guys. pdib was kind enough to pm me and link a thread to a similar situation he had. last night I used some electrical contact sanding tweezers I had to scuff the firing pin. I cleaned it with alcohol and applied some nolax and it seems much better than it was. I still feel like I have to depress the fire button slightly more than I should but im chalking that up to my batteries. although my batteries are "button top", the button is awful small and looks like it only protrudes slightly more than say a standard flat top. im going to rtd vapor right now and ordering a couple of the batteries rob linked. I just saw these 2900mah batteries and had been using them in my mechanical and figured reo + 2900mah has to = win. ill report back with my finding when I receive my batteries.
 

pdib

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Scuff up both ends of the batteries a little too.

For general info. Since fullsleeve is set. I was scuffing for a time. (this is with heavy current, mind you . . . 0.5Ω) I think the micro scratches from scuffing facilitate some arcing too. If anyone is going through the trouble. . . . . . . shiny, glossy smooth, like a mirror. That's what worked for me, in the end.
 
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