Repairing leaky Protank

[Altaire Versailles]

Some of you already know how irritated I am with the protank, and Im not here to talk about that lol

So I didnt have juice in my other tanks and my protank was the only one full(since i never use it) and I grabbed it. Threw it on my ego. Get to work and pull it out, and my hands are covered in juice. Sigh. wash it off in the sink, leave it to dry on a napkin, notice the leaks coming from the space between the glass and the bottom metal of the tank. I can see the seal between the two has cracks in it where i presume the leak is coming from.

Ok who cares right...So does anybody know something inconspicuous and safe to use to seal the crack? I remember a while ago seeing somebody use something clear and in liquid form but i didnt pay attention to what it was because I thought it was some rare anomaly with these things. And I am not looking to wrap tape around it lol

 

[Ibocpro]

Not a good fix but I did that once with a clearo, used black electrician's tape to stop the leak. It kinda works, it will leak over time but does stop the liquid from "running" out.

As for actually fixing it, no idea but hopefully the bump will help find someone who does know.

 

[chellemmm]

Toothpicks. See the tank forum.

 

[BillyTheWild]

I wonder if silicone sealant commonly used in household maintenance is safe to use in this situation.

 

[Altaire Versailles]

Come to think of it, i seem to remember that bring what they used, I'm looking into it...

And i really don't see how a toothpick could be used as a seal unless that was a joke?

 

[DavidOck]

Perhaps the toothpick was for the "airy" draw that some don't care for...

Seems that some of the earlier releases had problems with the cement / glue that holds the pyrex to the stainless. Once taken fully apart and after cleaning the residue from all parts, silicone sealer should work, and can be had in clear.

I've also read of someone here on ECF using JBQuick, a fairly high temp 2 part epoxy.

 

[Dannyboy5691]

I read that someone used food grade epoxy? I think that was it. I think they bought it at Home Depot.

 

[yotasavg]

Someone told me they just used crazy glue... but I really don't like that idea and don't recommend it.

 

[ed101z]

Seems to me all Kanger has to do... is just change the style of the rubber boot that slides down on the post - over the Coil. That's where most of the juice runs through, and eventually ends up in the chrome mouth piece. I can insert a Q-Tip in there at times, and go around the barrel... to only pull out a saturated Q-Tip. Wasting a lot of juice because of this.

It's THEIR JOB to FIX this damn problem!! It's not OUR place to FIX it for them.

 

[DavidOck]

If the boot you reference were any bigger, it would totally cover the wicks an make a good seal. But with the wick covered, there would be no juice flow, no vape.

Any time you have a container of liquid with a hole in it there's a chance of leaking. If there's no hole, there's no way for the juice to get to the heating coil.

Toss in that we all may use juices of different viscosity, and it becomes more likely that nothing is going to be a one stop solution.

 

[cerver7]

Honestly, get a new PT. they are fairly cheap and once the seal is bad and they are cracks, its dead IMO.

 

[M_DuBb716]

I just posted a thread about this - I have the exact same problem except it's leaking from the top of the glass, where it meets the metal mouthpiece. Now since I noticed this, it has been gurgling worse than ever at all times, whether empty or full/

I'm getting so fed up with the "Protank".. It's so frustrating because when it 'works' good, it's better than anything I've ever tried.. But that only lasts about a day before the coil goes to crap, not to mention other issues.

Now this leaky/gurgling one I have is really frustrating.. It's been dumping puddles of juice into my brand new eVic, love it!