Resistance-No Resistance wire welder

[gsa]

Haha....my incomplete model...I agree I was thinking a spring on the ram, two insulated clamps holding each wire, I was going to use delrin for the body of my mock up and drill a hole through the center and use a triangle file for the V....not sure what I would use long term

Yeah some additional sight relief would help.

Insulated clamps? I was thinking you were planning on charging the post, not the wire, like a spot welder?

 

[gsa]

Sorry if I am stepping on toes, but wasn't the point of this thread to find a way to make one simple and way cheaper that the one being offered? The deeper this thread gets, the more expensive the parts and the more complicated it is getting.

I'm trying to build one the way the thread started out....I don't need all of the bells and whistles....just a box with leads that will work. The first 10 pages were great....minimal materials with actual results and a working model. That's what I need....simplicity. I don't understand much of this, and many others in here will not either.

That was the point and we have several working schematics that accomplish that goal throughout the thread. I personally feel that this is the easiest method using the least amount of components and achieving optimal results: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/367095-resistance-no-resistance-wire-welder-32.html#post8382692 I might ask a mod to update the original post to help clarify this. The rest of the chat is just us geeking out a little, you can ignore it if you like

 

[bapgood]

Sorry if I am stepping on toes, but wasn't the point of this thread to find a way to make one simple and way cheaper that the one being offered? The deeper this thread gets, the more expensive the parts and the more complicated it is getting.

I'm trying to build one the way the thread started out....I don't need all of the bells and whistles....just a box with leads that will work. The first 10 pages were great....minimal materials with actual results and a working model. That's what I need....simplicity. I don't understand much of this, and many others in here will not either.

There may be a lot of ideas but the information is in the thread.

Basic needs as I see them....A disposable camera, couple of extra capacitors or cameras so you can achieve the ~330uF capacitance, project box, AA battery holder, on/off switch, couple of momentary switches, wire, alligator clamps, a 15k resistor, and a decent dmm(a $5 harbor freight or similar wont do)

Did I mis anything?

 

[bapgood]

Insulated clamps? I was thinking you were planning on charging the post, not the wire, like a spot welder?

yes, insulated alligator clamps to hold the wire....at least one of the wires.....cuzz you can't go bopping the ram while holding two wires

edit....wait....thats what that thing above my shoulders could be used for

 

[UA72Riddle]

Not what meant gsa....I understand the "geeking" out, and I certainly don't want to ignore what is taking place.

Not my intentions to interfere or insult.....but my electrical component ignorance is coming out.

I guess my lack of ability to grasp what is going on, has left me drowning in information and feeling lost. Just ignore my post, I'll merely spectate.

 

[UA72Riddle]

I apologize for speaking out of turn without thinking. I am going to start over in the thread and try to grasp some of the information rather than letting it pass by.....might actually learn something. I have personal issues right now making me kind of edgy...

I'll delete the previous....this has been a fun thread, one I would like to keep participating in rather than hiding.

 

[gsa]

UA, it is a pretty simple circuit but once you start changing things around there is a lot of math and stuff involved, some things are not as simple as they first seem. I am by no means a EE but I do work with some of these components for a living, there are some great contributors in this thread that have solid circuitry knowledge (much more than I) and everyone is here to help each other. If you get lost or have a question about your build, just ask and we will all do the best to help you build your welder.

 

[bapgood]

I apologize for speaking out of turn without thinking. I am going to start over in the thread and try to grasp some of the information rather than letting it pass by.....might actually learn something. I have personal issues right now making me kind of edgy...

I'll delete the previous....this has been a fun thread, one I would like to keep participating in rather than hiding.

I would definitely read the thread!!! Besides the information in it about the welder, myself and a couple of others have offered to send out cameras to those who can't locate them locally. Breaktru also has a thread with great info.

 

[mre777]

If anyone is looking for nice banana binding posts for their build at a low price, I just got THESE and the shipping is free! They unscrew off the plate and can be used for so many things

 

[Sovran]

@UA7 natural progression has happened here. It started with the camera and it works. Price- free if you have a little bit of hardware and a friendly CVS employee. I have the employee but not the hardware. Bought that this weekend at Rat shack for under $10(no meter). It then moved to the LM module (2 for $10 on ebay). I do plan on going that route but until then the camera will work fine. When I do I will be able to build 2 for a total of $25. So it went from free to 13.50. Note that when using the LM module a meter is not required since the welds are done at max voltage.

 

[UA72Riddle]

Yeah, I registered at breaktrus site, but never got an approval. Tried twice....

I have cameras, and built a basic one. But I can't get my 30 silver to work with the 30 and 32g kanthal I have. I meant I am going to start over...maybe find what I need mixed in the information.

 

[bapgood]

I should restate good dmm as decent dmm...I use this dmm from harbor freight and it works and seems decent all around. Some day I will quit relying on tools at work and break down and buy a Fluke.

 

[bapgood]

Yeah, I registered at breaktrus site, but never got an approval. Tried twice....

I have cameras, and built a basic one. But I can't get my 30 silver to work with the 30 and 32g kanthal I have. I meant I am going to start over...maybe find what I need mixed in the information.

Your not alone on the silver. I haven't tried it but there seems to be a bit of black magic getting it to weld.

 

[jmarkus]

Your not alone on the silver. I haven't tried it but there seems to be a bit of black magic getting it to weld.

black magic indeed...i havent been able to get silver to stick at all. ive tried 100's...i think having the larger uf cap is whats giving break the edge. no idea tho...cant wait to build out the step-up version with bigger uf cap/lower volt to see if i can get a handle it.

 

[dsy5]

I'm no metal expert, but isn't silver softer than nickel and copper? Or maybe its melting point lower? As this welder as we're calling it, is merely a tack welder, I think that the arc may be melting the silver too well than with other metals. And since that spark makes a lot of us jump a lttle, maybe we aren't giving the weld a chance to set.

Breaktru has managed to join silver, but the majority of us are having problems - the gage I am using is fairly large (24), so I think that is a big part of my battle, but for a lot of us to have these troubles, there must be a good reason.

I also have trouble with what appears to be tinned copper wire - tin has a very low melting point and is also quite soft compared to other metals.

 

[TBinAZ]

He will let you in, man. BTU is a good guy.

Yeah, I registered at breaktrus site, but never got an approval. Tried twice....

I have cameras, and built a basic one. But I can't get my 30 silver to work with the 30 and 32g kanthal I have. I meant I am going to start over...maybe find what I need mixed in the information.

 

[breaktru]

Yeah, I registered at breaktrus site, but never got an approval. Tried twice....

I have cameras, and built a basic one. But I can't get my 30 silver to work with the 30 and 32g kanthal I have. I meant I am going to start over...maybe find what I need mixed in the information.

You registered with a fake email address so the conformation email was bounced back several times.

Start your weld at a lower voltage and increase ONE volt at a time. Each time cutting off the ends of both wires of unsuccessful attempts until you find the right voltage. Once you have the right voltage, it's a snap. It will work the first time, every time.

 

[dsy5]

Managed to get that 24ga silver to take Kanthal, finally. I added capacitance to bring the total up to 1520µF. With around 35V I was able to make a very good weld. It took several tries, but I finally got one of my best welds ever. So all hope is not lost! Now, if it will repeat...

 

[breaktru]

I'm no metal expert, but isn't silver softer than nickel and copper? Or maybe its melting point lower? As this welder as we're calling it, is merely a tack welder, I think that the arc may be melting the silver too well than with other metals. And since that spark makes a lot of us jump a lttle, maybe we aren't giving the weld a chance to set.

Breaktru has managed to join silver, but the majority of us are having problems - the gage I am using is fairly large (24), so I think that is a big part of my battle, but for a lot of us to have these troubles, there must be a good reason.

I also have trouble with what appears to be tinned copper wire - tin has a very low melting point and is also quite soft compared to other metals.

That's exactly what is hapening with the silver and copper. It's melting. Try low and work up, one volt at a time. I welded with 30ga .999 silver and 32ga copper perfectly.

 

[breaktru]

managed to get that 24ga silver to take kanthal, finally. I added capacitance to bring the total up to 1520µf. With around 35v i was able to make a very good weld. It took several tries, but i finally got one of my best welds ever. So all hope is not lost! Now, if it will repeat...

yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!