Review of the REO Woodvil VV Mod

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MXBNW

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Hay every one.

Sorry for dropping of the face of the earth. Life has just got the better of me over the past few months.

Happy to report that the VV Woodvil is still going strong. I have been keeping in contact with Rob with reports.

From looking at the new photos there are going to be a lot of happy VV REO owners soon.

Looks like Mat (MWA) has been doing a good job of keeping every one up today with his Beta mod.

I am still kicking the 2.5 306 Cisco at around 4 to 4.5v and loving it. Its got me through a few hard days it will tell you that.

Chat with you All soon.
 

MXBNW

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Just an up date: REO Woodvil VV is still going strong. Been running about 6ml of juice through it every day.

I changed attys to a 3.0 oHm Atty 306 (off brand) with the air holes drilled out for more air flow and running the REO at about
5.2V loving it. Going to order a few HH357's to put on it next. :)

I have not found an atty (2.0 and above) that I can not get to my sweet spot.
 

unsure

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Just an up date: REO Woodvil VV is still going strong. Been running about 6ml of juice through it every day.

I changed attys to a 3.0 oHm Atty 306 (off brand) with the air holes drilled out for more air flow and running the REO at about
5.2V loving it. Going to order a few HH357's to put on it next. :)

I have not found an atty (2.0 and above) that I can not get to my sweet spot.

Good to know. I was curious to what would be the best Ω attys to get.
 

MXBNW

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Good to know. I was curious to what would be the best Ω attys to get.

What Mudflap said :). the 2.5 atty is the best on it. I just wonted to try a 3.0 I had kicking around to test out. Works well but if I was to buy attys for the VV REO it would be the 2.5 or standard attys at 2.2.
 

rc10mike

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Nope. But you can use lithium cobalt batteries with PCBs to hedge against over discharge.

Dang, I thought that was going to come with it....the other protections are good, but low voltage protection would be great...but I guess it would cause issues with those running 2 cells :)
 

markfm

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Should check on the low voltage. I think the notcigs pro series has low voltage cutout, believe Rob has the pro circuit.

(I use unprotected powerizers in a buzz pro. The electronics definitely cut out without driving the batteries too low. I drive the batteries until both led turn on and the pv stops producing all the time.)
 
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Skeeter T

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Just my opinion, but with a 2.5 ohm atomizer, your available range in watts would be:

3.3 volts = 4.356 watts
5.5 volts = 12.1 watts

That's a pretty big range to fine tune your vape.

At 2.5 ohm and 5.5v, the batt is putting out 2.2 amps. I've read somewhere that around 1.5 amps is fine and around 2 amps is at risk for atty burnout.

How many amps does it actually take to pop an atty? Has anyone done a study on this? Do different ohm atty's pop at different amps? I won't spend all that money experimenting. I spend enough now without even trying to kill atty's.
 

whatitstrue

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Should check on the low voltage. I think the notcigs pro series has low voltage cutout, believe Rob has the pro circuit.

(I use unprotected powerizers in a buzz pro. The electronics definitely cut out without driving the batteries too low. I drive the batteries until both led turn on and the pv stops producing all the time.)


Originally Posted by BuzzKill

THere is NO cutoff circuit built into the controller , it goes until the batts die

From the http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/260459-vv-reos-part-ii-75.html#post5527512 thread.
 
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markfm

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I've been using Buzz Pro since it first came out. On the Pro series, the electronics cut out when output is too low, both LED (Blue and Red) that are on the notcigs PV then light, weakly, and output drops like a stone, then stops. I've been chatting with Buzz about this in the background. This is a snippet, from yesterday. "Both lights means BAD OUTPUT , the device will cut off if the input voltage is too low."; the last part of the sentence is key.

On BP I've been using minimally protected (nominally unprotected, but they have a short circuit protection) powerizers all along, 8+ months, always run them until the electronics cut off, then change batteries. Each of my 3 pairs has around 80 cycles on them, no noticeable degradation in performance. As a note, per Battery University the desirable device level cutout for a 3.7V Lithium ion is about 3.0V, with safeties typically designed to kick in (sleep mode) at about 2.7V (Charging Lithium-Ion Batteries).

On my VVPV I have protected trustfires. That unit is designed to be charged with the batteries left in. The obvious electronics cutoff is occurring, same as on BP, both LED light, vapor production drops like a stone, stops. The device level under-voltage is kicking in before the battery protection circuit, else I wouldn't get the two LEDs -- the protection in batteries goes to open circuit, I would have no LED, not two.

So, there's no timer cutout (I can dry burn an atty until the batteries drain and the device cutout kicks in), but there is a device-level low voltage electronics cutout. Any given battery's built-in protection might trip before the device-level, but overall, based on my own use, the PV level cutout is happening at a point that is safe for batteries. Buzz said in the other thread that he hasn't been hearing of powerizer use problems, and I'm pretty sure many of the other BP owners use them like me -- discharge until the device-level cutoff kicks in.

(that VV circuit is really nice :) )
 
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