Rough Stack Thumb of Approval

[NewUnit16]

I have a big Chuck. It's large and it works for me. The 18650 battery is a tank. But it is shirt pocket un-friendly. Since most of my shirts have said pocket, I wanted something smaller I could take around with me.

Mulled over several units for weeks, but I pride function over form to an extent, and settled on a roughstack. It got extra points because I buy 90% of my stuff from Mad Vapes.

It does what it says it does! The die used to create the male threading left a bit of a rough edge, I need to sand that down. I have to press down harder than desired on the button for it to fire. These issues are only slight. It fits good in my hand, as does just about anything... but I am quite excited about the button placement. If you were to put this in your pocket, it would seem less likely to go off than most other side mounted button models.

I implore any of you, who are trying to decide to get a roughstack, to act quickly. I should have got one several weeks ago! You would be hard pressed to find a battery mod at this price, sans one that uses 14500 batteries.

p.s. I REALLY like the smok Tek 510 cartos at 2Ohm. Finally, a carto I like!

 

[Kellyinbr]

I would have to second this comment, and add for the ladies that it is also purse friendly as well...I put mine in one of the inside pockets and have had no issues with it fingering on it's own.

 

[5vz]

Right there with you. I even added the extension. It is heaven to me. Small as just the Rough Stack but powerful, with extension it does go the length of my entire hand, but vapes like nothing else, lightweight too. I can't live without it!

 

[dale1962]

Agree on all posts,really a great inexpensive device......roughstack is great at 3.7V with 2.0ohm carto's or lr atty and with extension it go's to another level at 6V...and just got the 5.0ohm carto's to try at 7.4V I'll report back when I jump to that level.Anybody tried the 5.0ohm at 7.4v yet?

 

[cskent]

I love my Maxi Roughstack . It's my primary vape machine because it's consistent and dependable.

 

[FeistyAlice]

I'm a dedicated bottom feeder head, Reos and one really special Phidias AND I love my Roughstack. I started with the small one and after much chiding the extension tube became available. It is a little different diameter than the original top part but I use colored children's stretchy, like "rubber bands", to go around the bottom tube and it hides the small imperfect fit; kinda like an o-ring. Also, if you want the original top to match the extension use a good metal cleaner and you can get them to match up well.

I bling mine out with a tall steel E2 with a Cherry Vape Pawn Storm and it is quite classy looking. Shorter tank carto when I use the extension.

AND.... the Storm Tank mod carto (COV) fits nicely on it, leaving enough room to work the button.

I love my Roughstack and when I "dress it up" it is just as classy as my Megaolodon.

It's a tough little critter too. And at the low cost I'm not afraid of losing it in the woods, while I'm working, as I am with my other much more expensive mods, although I hope that never happens.

I ordered the extra button kit for just in case. My button has never depressed very far which took some getting used too. After having leaking of juice from above, various reasons, and not any the cause by the Roughstack, I'm going to take the button assembly off and clean it with 99.9% iso alcohol, just as I do with other electronics. I, too, am having to put more effort into pressing the button, but I figure it is gunked up a bit.

As I am letting go of some of my earlier mods now, I can assure you that the Roughstack is here to stay. It is always loaded and I vape it daily along with other favorite mods, all with different juices.

Alice

 

[FeistyAlice]

Oh yes, almost forgot. Take a very tiny amount of Noalox (must be conductive grease), very small amount, and run it around the female threads. You can get it at Home Depot. It will make the threads glide with ease and you probably won't have to break out the file.

Alice

 

[bushmaster]

I have had to clean the circuit board on my Roughstack several times. Some carts bleed through more than others and the circuit board gets shorted out. So be it. Once I had recognized that this is the problem, It made it a whole lot easier.

 

[grandmato5]

I LOVE my Roughstack. It does exactly what I wanted it to do when I purchased it. I was hesitant as to how I'd feel about the switch being on the top but the feel in my hand is great. I find the overall size to be perfect.

Just this evening I ordered the extention tube and a spare switch unit. After using it for almost two months I've decided its a mod that I will continue to use for a long time most often as is, but I wanted the add'l options to be able to use 18650 batts and with using 16340 batts be able to do 6 VT vaping. Since I plan on using it for a long time I decided that if my switch decides to fail someday, having the spare switch unit would be an easy change out for me and worth investing in now.

 

[bushmaster]

I 2nd the recommendation for the Noalox. It makes the threads glide very easily and theoretically will improve its conduction and the quality of the vaping.

Oh yes, almost forgot. Take a very tiny amount of Noalox (must be conductive grease), very small amount, and run it around the female threads. You can get it at Home Depot. It will make the threads glide with ease and you probably won't have to break out the file.

Alice

 

[danielwd]

The Roughstack is nice and doesn't draw much attention in public. I love how it fits in the palm of my hand and hardly anyone will even notice I am using it until the billow of vapor is produced.

I like using the low resistance atties from madvapes, but they burn HOT and I have to keep juice in the atty constantly. I like using just standard atties. You sacrifice a little vapor, but I can take a dozen heavy drags or more without having to worry about filling it with juice.

Overall, I am very satisifed with this product. I was looking for a simple mod. that produced lots of vapor and I found it.

 

[pa28]

I have had to clean the circuit board on my Roughstack several times. Some carts bleed through more than others and the circuit board gets shorted out. So be it. Once I had recognized that this is the problem, It made it a whole lot easier.

Any chance you could describe this process? I need to do this, but not sure how the 510 socket dis assembles. Thoughts/comments appreciated

 

[doots]

I like mine and you cant beat the price.

 

[FeistyAlice]

I have had to clean the circuit board on my Roughstack several times. Some carts bleed through more than others and the circuit board gets shorted out. So be it. Once I had recognized that this is the problem, It made it a whole lot easier.

Yeah, same here. The other day I cleaned the circuit board and button nuts and it improved the button action too. Mine wasn't shorting out but figured it needed a cleaning and glad I did. It was a little tricky getting the spring to come out without stretching it out but once I got it out it and looked at it it will be a breeze from now on.

Alice

 

[FeistyAlice]

Any chance you could describe this process? I need to do this, but not sure how the 510 socket dis assembles. Thoughts/comments appreciated

Let's see if I can make this short and simple. Sit or stand at a counter with a towel to catch a thin washer if it falls. That way it won't bounce off a hard surface and be lost forever. First remove battery. There is a nut that goes around the black button on top. Use what ever you have on hand to unscrew it left (counter clockwise- {usually} lefty/loosey, righty/tighty). I used a bill tip small like needle nose pliers. Needle nose would work too. Unscrew and place the nut in a safe place. Then gently work the circuit board out using something thin to work around the edge all the while gently pushing the button down a little to easy the board out. To be honest I forget where the "washer" goes but it will be obvious once you start or get the board out. The thing that keeps the board from sliding out easily is a little plastic sleeve that goes around the button spring. (Gosh, I wish I had time to do it as I'm trying to explain.) Once you get the board out, with button still attached, you will see the plastic tube still up in the top or it will come out with the spring. It's pretty obvious where the sleeve and button go. Take note of where the little washer is when you get the board out. My plastic sleeve stayed in the top but it made it almost impossible to get the spring back in. So I used narrow tweezers to gently pull it out.

Then cleaned every thing with 99.9% iso alcohol (I keep it to clean electronics as it has less impurities) but regular rubbing alcohol probably will do. Please someone comment about this.

After you let it dry for an hour or more put the plastic sleeve on the spring and the metal washer (where ever it goes..... sorry for being so ditsy) and gently push the whole assembly back into the top with top side of RS up, line up the button, and gently push it up until you get the threads showing in the button hole, enough to put the nut back on. Don't over tighten. When you first take the nut off remember how few turns it took to take it off.

If I am remembering correctly, the cup stays attached to the RS top. Clean the outside and inside of the RS while you have the circuit board out. Alcohol is fine but a little metal polish on the outside makes it look really nice.

I can't tell you how much the Noalox helps the threads and it can only help the conductivity. Use very sparingly on the female, inside the top threads. Home Depot and Lowes, in electrical dept HD usually hanging with other small do dad. Don't make the mistake of getting a non-conductive grease sold at auto stores. It can cause shorts and other bad things including the RS not firing because the current can't make it from bottom of battery to the circuit board.

Well, you just got directions from a geekgranny, with "old-timers", and blond as can be, ADHD and a few wine cooler under the expanding belt. It's been at least two weeks so I really don't have a clear picture and clear memory. Just be gentle with the circuit board and don't brute force anything. Although the RS is electrically fired and not manually like some of the High End mods, its construction and functioning is beautifully simple. It truly exemplifies KISS= keep it simple stupid.

Please, others who see this, I extend to you to modify, add to, or correct anything I've written.

It's really pretty easy. Don't be afraid. You can do it.

Ditsy, blond, granny, Alice

 

[bushmaster]

Let's see if I can make this short and simple. Sit or stand at a counter with a towel to catch a thin washer if it falls. That way it won't bounce off a hard surface and be lost forever. First remove battery. There is a nut that goes around the black button on top. Use what ever you have on hand to unscrew it left (counter clockwise- {usually} lefty/loosey, righty/tighty). I used a bill tip small like needle nose pliers. Needle nose would work too. Unscrew and place the nut in a safe place. Then gently work the circuit board out using something thin to work around the edge all the while gently pushing the button down a little to easy the board out. To be honest I forget where the "washer" goes but it will be obvious once you start or get the board out. The thing that keeps the board from sliding out easily is a little plastic sleeve that goes around the button spring. (Gosh, I wish I had time to do it as I'm trying to explain.) Once you get the board out, with button still attached, you will see the plastic tube still up in the top or it will come out with the spring. It's pretty obvious where the sleeve and button go. Take note of where the little washer is when you get the board out. My plastic sleeve stayed in the top but it made it almost impossible to get the spring back in. So I used narrow tweezers to gently pull it out.

Then cleaned every thing with 99.9% iso alcohol (I keep it to clean electronics as it has less impurities) but regular rubbing alcohol probably will do. Please someone comment about this.

After you let it dry for an hour or more put the plastic sleeve on the spring and the metal washer (where ever it goes..... sorry for being so ditsy) and gently push the whole assembly back into the top with top side of RS up, line up the button, and gently push it up until you get the threads showing in the button hole, enough to put the nut back on. Don't over tighten. When you first take the nut off remember how few turns it took to take it off.

If I am remembering correctly, the cup stays attached to the RS top. Clean the outside and inside of the RS while you have the circuit board out. Alcohol is fine but a little metal polish on the outside makes it look really nice.

I can't tell you how much the Noalox helps the threads and it can only help the conductivity. Use very sparingly on the female, inside the top threads. Home Depot and Lowes, in electrical dept HD usually hanging with other small do dad. Don't make the mistake of getting a non-conductive grease sold at auto stores. It can cause shorts and other bad things including the RS not firing because the current can't make it from bottom of battery to the circuit board.

Well, you just got directions from a geekgranny, with "old-timers", and blond as can be, ADHD and a few wine cooler under the expanding belt. It's been at least two weeks so I really don't have a clear picture and clear memory. Just be gentle with the circuit board and don't brute force anything. Although the RS is electrically fired and not manually like some of the High End mods, its construction and functioning is beautifully simple. It truly exemplifies KISS= keep it simple stupid.

Please, others who see this, I extend to you to modify, add to, or correct anything I've written.

It's really pretty easy. Don't be afraid. You can do it.

Ditsy, blond, granny, Alice

Thanks for doing my work for me, Alice. Couldna said it better myself.
I will say that q-tips work real well to get into the small places around the spring and such on the circuit board.
Also use an alcohol-soaked q-tip to clean the atty socket--where the atty screws in. Most of the time, if I unscrew my atty from the Roughstack, there will be juice residue in there. Serves me right for not replacing my carts and/or filler once in a while.

 

[icemanx3]

The Rough Stack was my first purchase into vaping...use it non stop every day, for the past 3+ months. Not a hitch. I bring it with me to the lab all the time, and rip it apart and ultra sonic all of the parts in water first, then 99.9% iso alchohol, then blow it all dry with compressed nitrogen. I even submerge the switch believe it or not and the thing still fires (I only clean the switch a couple times a month, even though it doesn't need it. When I ordered this beast, I also ordered an extra 510 connector and a switch in the event something fails...nope, not yet. I drop it on the cement maybe once every two weeks...no prob. Always have it in my pocket, it's never fired by itself. One thing I realized early on was how small it is, and how it hides in the palm of your hand.

Regarding those sharp threads, I found if you slightly push the two halves together as you screw it, there's no roughness. I think the spring from the lower piece pushes them apart as you screw, making it feel rough.

Happy Rough Stacking!

ice

 

[icemanx3]

Wow, westamyx nice explanation. I'd like to piggy back on that one with some pictures that show some of those parts you spoke about.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-roughstack-switch-battery-connector-cap.html

Hope that helps

ice

Let's see if I can make this short and simple. Sit or stand at a counter with a towel to catch a thin washer if it falls. That way it won't bounce off a hard surface and be lost forever. First remove battery. There is a nut that goes around the black button on top. Use what ever you have on hand to unscrew it left (counter clockwise- {usually} lefty/loosey, righty/tighty). I used a bill tip small like needle nose pliers. Needle nose would work too. Unscrew and place the nut in a safe place. Then gently work the circuit board out using something thin to work around the edge all the while gently pushing the button down a little to easy the board out. To be honest I forget where the "washer" goes but it will be obvious once you start or get the board out. The thing that keeps the board from sliding out easily is a little plastic sleeve that goes around the button spring. (Gosh, I wish I had time to do it as I'm trying to explain.) Once you get the board out, with button still attached, you will see the plastic tube still up in the top or it will come out with the spring. It's pretty obvious where the sleeve and button go. Take note of where the little washer is when you get the board out. My plastic sleeve stayed in the top but it made it almost impossible to get the spring back in. So I used narrow tweezers to gently pull it out.

Then cleaned every thing with 99.9% iso alcohol (I keep it to clean electronics as it has less impurities) but regular rubbing alcohol probably will do. Please someone comment about this.

After you let it dry for an hour or more put the plastic sleeve on the spring and the metal washer (where ever it goes..... sorry for being so ditsy) and gently push the whole assembly back into the top with top side of RS up, line up the button, and gently push it up until you get the threads showing in the button hole, enough to put the nut back on. Don't over tighten. When you first take the nut off remember how few turns it took to take it off.

If I am remembering correctly, the cup stays attached to the RS top. Clean the outside and inside of the RS while you have the circuit board out. Alcohol is fine but a little metal polish on the outside makes it look really nice.

I can't tell you how much the Noalox helps the threads and it can only help the conductivity. Use very sparingly on the female, inside the top threads. Home Depot and Lowes, in electrical dept HD usually hanging with other small do dad. Don't make the mistake of getting a non-conductive grease sold at auto stores. It can cause shorts and other bad things including the RS not firing because the current can't make it from bottom of battery to the circuit board.

Well, you just got directions from a geekgranny, with "old-timers", and blond as can be, ADHD and a few wine cooler under the expanding belt. It's been at least two weeks so I really don't have a clear picture and clear memory. Just be gentle with the circuit board and don't brute force anything. Although the RS is electrically fired and not manually like some of the High End mods, its construction and functioning is beautifully simple. It truly exemplifies KISS= keep it simple stupid.

Please, others who see this, I extend to you to modify, add to, or correct anything I've written.

It's really pretty easy. Don't be afraid. You can do it.

Ditsy, blond, granny, Alice