RSST @ 1.1 Ω on my Provari 2.5 - Happy with this....for now.

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mattborkin

Full Member
Nov 20, 2013
60
34
Detroit, MI, USA
Hey all,

I am a few days away from getting a mechanical mod (to run sub-Ω). In the meantime, however, I was able to get a happy combo with my RSST (using #400 ss mesh, a 4/5 wrap of .28 Kanthol which gave me 1.1 Ω) and my Provari 2.5. I was afraid it would error out, but it didn't. The vapor production difference between the 1.5 Ω and the 1.1 Ω is phenomenal.

I can't wait to see what happens when I drop another coil or 2 and use it on the smok Magneto i have coming....

That's all, Just wanted to share.

Thanks,

Matt!
 
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muzichead

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Feb 7, 2011
5,281
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Illinois
Great to hear you found something you like Matt. I have had my RSST for several months now and enjoy it very much. It has the lowest learning curve of almost any RBA out there today and vapes great. I think you will enjoy it on the Magneto as well. I use mine on my SmokTech Natural in hybrid mode in 18500 setup. It's not too small or too big. Just right... I have mine setup with 28g 2/3 3/32" SS rope wrapped in 500 SS mesh @ .9Ω and it is a vaping machine...
20131221_171442.jpg20131221_171521.jpg20131219_134433.jpg
 

Gimpy1261

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Mar 6, 2012
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Ga. Down Under
Great to hear you found something you like Matt. I have had my RSST for several months now and enjoy it very much. It has the lowest learning curve of almost any RBA out there today and vapes great. I think you will enjoy it on the Magneto as well. I use mine on my SmokTech Natural in hybrid mode in 18500 setup. It's not too small or too big. Just right... I have mine setup with 28g 2/3 3/32" SS rope wrapped in 500 SS mesh @ .9Ω and it is a vaping machine...
View attachment 295581View attachment 295582View attachment 295583

What is that in your top cap?
 

mattborkin

Full Member
Nov 20, 2013
60
34
Detroit, MI, USA
Great to hear you found something you like Matt. I have had my RSST for several months now and enjoy it very much. It has the lowest learning curve of almost any RBA out there today and vapes great. I think you will enjoy it on the Magneto as well. I use mine on my SmokTech Natural in hybrid mode in 18500 setup. It's not too small or too big. Just right... I have mine setup with 28g 2/3 3/32" SS rope wrapped in 500 SS mesh @ .9Ω and it is a vaping machine...
View attachment 295581View attachment 295582View attachment 295583


Muzic,

Thanks for the response - I look forward to it. I have a package of 3/32" 7x7 ss rope here as well that i'm itchin' to put in. The local vape store guy says "it will just cook your juice and make it nasty" - but I wanna try anyhow, lol.

I found a local supplier that sells it for $0.25 per foot. Perfect!

Oh, and the guy in the post above also asked - but is that a weight, or a heat-sync or something you're using to fill a void in your top cap?

Thanks again!

Matt!
 

folkphys

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Jul 27, 2013
596
588
Chapel Hill, NC
2 suggestions even though you've not asked for them:

1. Get yourself some 0.8mm Ribbon Kanthal. When you start removing coil wraps while heading for the sub-ohm-ness, your are giving up precious coil-to-wick surface contact for boiling. So while your flavor and TH will likely increase, you are also running the risk of outpacing your wick's ability to re-wet itself, especially when you're heating a smaller portion of the exposed wick. 0.8mm Ribbon gets you roughly the same Ohms/ft as 28g Round Kanthal but with far more surface area for wick contact.

2. Enlarge your airhole a bit (if you've not already do so). These high powered hitters need lots of air to perform well and with a 1/16" breather on my RSST, I noticed immediate staggering increases in flavor intensity and vapor production.
 

muzichead

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Feb 7, 2011
5,281
13,882
Illinois
Muzic,

Thanks for the response - I look forward to it. I have a package of 3/32" 7x7 ss rope here as well that i'm itchin' to put in. The local vape store guy says "it will just cook your juice and make it nasty" - but I wanna try anyhow, lol.

I found a local supplier that sells it for $0.25 per foot. Perfect!

Oh, and the guy in the post above also asked - but is that a weight, or a heat-sync or something you're using to fill a void in your top cap?

Thanks again!

Matt!

I think you will enjoy the SS rope... I haven't found it to cook my juice and or make it nasty in any way at all. In fact, the flavor jumped off the charts in my opinion. I know there are a lot of people out there right now using cotton and thats all good, but for my I had way too many problems with cotton in the RSST. Aside from the muted taste and flavor, it leaked like all get out. Didn't matter if I left the fill plug out, kept it in, it just wasn't good at all. It was basically untransportable, (if thats a real word?), unless you were holding it in your hand all the time. It leaked in my pants pockets, shirt pockets, in the console and on the seat of the truck, everywhere!! Then there was the vacuum issue I had with temperature changes. It would for some reason just empty the entire tank into the top cap if I went from one extreme to the other and then leak out the air hole!! Still can't figure that one out. I also had the issue of if it got knocked over or laid down for any period of time it would leak. I had woke up a few mornings and there was a pool of juice on the night stand. Since changing to the SS rope/ SS mesh combo I haven't had it leak a drop. I would've figured with the cotton, it would absorb so much and then block off the flow, but not the case... I have found the setup that works for me and it is working great now...

@Gompy, that is a chamber reducer I picked up from Fusions Mods a while back. It does basically the same thing that stuffing the top cap with cotton does. I tried the cotton wadded up in the cap and again the flavor was muted... With the RSST-TCI I regained the flavor I had lost with the cotton. I know Conrad M has made a big deal out of the condensation pooling on the deck and the inside rim of the top cap, but not a big deal for me. I usually only take off my top cap when I am filling it and usually have a paper towel or tissue available when filling and I just dab it to clean it up as I am filling... Takes all of about 10 seconds to do and best thing of all is my vape isn't muted sa it was with cotton... Here is a link for the reducer. It's only $10... After receiving and using it, it was a no brainer that it was worth it... RSST-TCI
 

folkphys

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
596
588
Chapel Hill, NC
If you're using a metal or ceramic wick, there is always a potential for cooking your juice. this is one of the trade-offs for wicks that, if cared for properly, can be reused almost indefinitely. Thus when my RSST and other Gennies were in regular service, I never fully filled up their tanks -- although I guess one might theorize that more juice in the tank = more insulation -> less cooked juice.....but I think the cumulative effect of heating-cooling-reheating ends up overriding that notion.

One effective tool for preventing cooked juice is using an Ekowool (or some such hollow braided silica) as a sock between the wick and coil. A lot of folks use the sock because it acts as a sponge for the juice wicked up by the steel keeping their coils wet, especially in setups with low ohms and few wraps; and because it alleviates electrical hot spots that can be caused by irregular coil wrapping, uneven tail lengths, and localized moments of metal wick to metal coil conductance; but the sock is also an insulator thus making it additionally a useful cooked juice preventer. Of course then you're back to that same old "off" flavor from silica that lead us to alternate wick materials in the first place.....
 
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mattborkin

Full Member
Nov 20, 2013
60
34
Detroit, MI, USA
2 suggestions even though you've not asked for them:

1. Get yourself some 0.8mm Ribbon Kanthal. When you start removing coil wraps while heading for the sub-ohm-ness, your are giving up precious coil-to-wick surface contact for boiling. So while your flavor and TH will likely increase, you are also running the risk of outpacing your wick's ability to re-wet itself, especially when you're heating a smaller portion of the exposed wick. 0.8mm Ribbon gets you roughly the same Ohms/ft as 28g Round Kanthal but with far more surface area for wick contact.

2. Enlarge your airhole a bit (if you've not already do so). These high powered hitters need lots of air to perform well and with a 1/16" breather on my RSST, I noticed immediate staggering increases in flavor intensity and vapor production.


Thank you!

I have enlarged my air hole already - that was the first thing I did. I'll definitly pick up some ribbon wire as your point is completely legit.

I was going to sand down the tip of the center pin to give more surface area to make contact with - but I noticed that my wick is already at the same height and I didn't want my center pin getting any shorter.... should i? I was looking at the silverplated screw mod, but don't want to nickle-and-dime myself to death...


Thanks again for the tips!

Matt!
 

folkphys

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
596
588
Chapel Hill, NC
Thank you!

I have enlarged my air hole already - that was the first thing I did. I'll definitly pick up some ribbon wire as your point is completely legit.

I was going to sand down the tip of the center pin to give more surface area to make contact with - but I noticed that my wick is already at the same height and I didn't want my center pin getting any shorter.... should i? I was looking at the silverplated screw mod, but don't want to nickle-and-dime myself to death...


Thanks again for the tips!

Matt!

It is never a bad idea (IMO) to sand flat the points of electrical contact. But just make it nice and flat, no need to go shortening it significantly, which would likely require hours of hand sanding anyhow. You shouldn't worry about the height of your wick relative to the center post. It's the coils that matter. So if your center post gets shorter, you just have to make your coil such that the last topmost wrap ends up close to in line with the washer on top of the spring.

I have, however shortened significantly the center pin of my RSST in order to accommodate one of those fancy reduced chamber top caps from KidneyPuncher. Though in doing so, I found out the hard way that a shorter center pin means a more tightly compressed positive contact spring, which also means more stress on the threads of the bottom center pin isolator - which is in the center hole of the base plate - which as it turns out is the only thing holding the entire device together and it's plastic, threaded to metal, and now maybe you can already see where I'm going with this but if not: metal threads ate plastic threads under the excessive force from an over-compressed spring rendering the whole damn thing useless because the baseplate and/or isolator are just about the only spare parts you can't purchase for the RSST.

I also had a silver-plated positive pin for it and it seemed to provide a noticeable uptake in performance, decreasing the overall voltage drop of the atomizer under load.
 
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bender817

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 26, 2013
372
242
Fort Worth, Texas
Hey all,

I am a few days away from getting a mechanical mod (to run sub-Ω). In the meantime, however, I was able to get a happy combo with my RSST (using #400 ss mesh, a 4/5 wrap of .28 Kanthol which gave me 1.1 Ω) and my Provari 2.5. I was afraid it would error out, but it didn't. The vapor production difference between the 1.5 Ω and the 1.1 Ω is phenomenal.

I can't wait to see what happens when I drop another coil or 2 and use it on the Smok Magneto i have coming....

That's all, Just wanted to share.

Thanks,

Matt!

You will love your magneto with the RSST. They really look good together.
 
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