Got my v1 pin replacement from Kidney Puncher today. Installed it. No more issues.
Russian 91% v2 irratic resistance readings
- Thread starter carrielsal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I just ordered one from MBV two days ago. My first rba and looking forward to it but the sliding pin sounds like it isn't an isolated incident. Thankfully you guys have found a fix
Yippie - got my replacement pins from vapordna. My wonky V2 is happy again. Measures .8Ωs across the +/- screws and .8Ωs from the neg screw to the 510 screw. happy, happy! 
Yippie - got my replacement pins from vapordna. My wonky V2 is happy again. Measures .8Ωs across the +/- screws and .8Ωs from the neg screw to the 510 screw. happy, happy!
Glad to hear it was a workable product, I ordered one too (just in case)
but haven't received it yet.
Got my pin today from kidney puncher( who by the way has fantastical customer service) and after struggling with my own stupidity mother Russia is alive and well!!
ok replaced the center pin (the vendor was kind enough to put a v1 pin in the bag) but it seems I can only get it to fire a few times and then i get OP on my provari. Is there a way to get the connection pin to stay in place without sinking?
I was able to get a 1.5 ohm reading on my 5th micro coil. Man that took some work. First time working with a rebuildable of any kind
I had to drop another insulator ring in mine to get my fatdaddy rebuild kit pin to work without going all the way down. I was a little tight tightening it all the way but it's rock solid and not smashing the deck insulator too bad. Getting a stable ohm reading now. Thank god for this forum.
Apart from the centre pin is everything performing great? I have a found a vendor that will sell v2s with the v1 centre pins and with an option for black as well!
With mine the finish, threads, drip tip fit, deck screws, adjustable air and overall performance are excellent. I also noticed it's been filled overnight and there no seeping around the fill hole. My clone leaks so bad I had to o-ring the fill screw.
Kebo left - Noname right
You may have done the same thing I did, the pin is 2 parts. Unscrew the screw from the end of the new pin, secure the pin then screw the screw into the pin this makes everything easy. I was treating it like one piece and after getting things secure the connection was so recessed no way it was gonna work
Got my pin and replacement top cap and drip tip cap from VaporDNA today. No more wonky Ω readings and the new cap and tip made my v2 into a v1. I am very happy with the setup — the top cap and drip tip are of as high a quality as the original v1 parts. They even included the o-rings! Hope they are not out of stock for long, 'cause if you like the stock tip of a v1, you will not be disappointed.
you seem to be fairly well-informed on this subject so I figured maybe you'll have an answer for my problem, which is somewhat similar to the one primarily discussed in this thread.Welcome to the club gentleman.
A couple-few things;
Make sure you have the 510 pin screwed in good and snug using that little spanner wrench, actually as tight as you can make it. It may help but honestly I'm doubtful. Even on a V1 if that connection is loose there can be issues.
We've identified a low cost rebuilt kit w/ the V1 2x screw 510 post. Some us have already ordered and should have them for testing in a couple-few days.
If you bought it retail from a vendor - perhaps you can exchange it. I have 2x V2's and only 1 has the problem.
i just picked up another russian, since I looove my kayfuns and Russians, and I was really excited about adding another great rebuildable to the family. It's a russian 91% v1(luckily I heard about this v2 ridiculousness some time ago and knew to stay away) and as soon as I went to throw on my first inaugural build I found that my positive terminal was strangely berry insecure, causing potential hard shorts and issues galore. Luckily I caught this before firing her up. Well, I thought ok weird, but no big deal, I'll just take the 510 pin out and tighten the other half of the screw that the 510 threads into which goes into the positive terminal in the form of the airflow opening. Much to my disappointment and irritation, no matter how much I tried, I could tighten the screw without moving the positive post, even when clamping down securely on the positive block to hold it in place and in the position it's supposed to be tightened down in, if I turn the screw that the 510 goes into then it turns the positive block. Pleeeeease if you or anyone else has any helpful insight, experience, or information regarding this unbelievably disheartening and upsetting issue with the R91 v1, I would be extraordinarily grateful and appreciative if you'd be so kind as to share it with me. This has been breaking my vaping heart, my a key breaker vapin heart lol
Keep on vaping all you cloud-chasing cowboys (and cowgirls)
you seem to be fairly well-informed on this subject so I figured maybe you'll have an answer for my problem, which is somewhat similar to the one primarily discussed in this thread.
i just picked up another russian, since I looove my kayfuns and Russians, and I was really excited about adding another great rebuildable to the family. It's a russian 91% v1(luckily I heard about this v2 ridiculousness some time ago and knew to stay away) and as soon as I went to throw on my first inaugural build I found that my positive terminal was strangely berry insecure, causing potential hard shorts and issues galore. Luckily I caught this before firing her up. Well, I thought ok weird, but no big deal, I'll just take the 510 pin out and tighten the other half of the screw that the 510 threads into which goes into the positive terminal in the form of the airflow opening. Much to my disappointment and irritation, no matter how much I tried, I could tighten the screw without moving the positive post, even when clamping down securely on the positive block to hold it in place and in the position it's supposed to be tightened down in, if I turn the screw that the 510 goes into then it turns the positive block. Pleeeeease if you or anyone else has any helpful insight, experience, or information regarding this unbelievably disheartening and upsetting issue with the R91 v1, I would be extraordinarily grateful and appreciative if you'd be so kind as to share it with me. This has been breaking my vaping heart, my a key breaker vapin heart lol
Keep on vaping all you cloud-chasing cowboys (and cowgirls)
It can be touchy to get the postive block 'tight'. But you should be able to get it snug enough that it doesn't easily move. <--- this step done with the small adjustment screw removed. The small screw should easily thread in/out of the long post/screw. I'm thinking maybe your short screw may be a snug fit casuing the post/screw to turn. Can you easily screw the little/screw in/out of the post? If not try working it in and out to loosen it so when screwing it in place it doesn't turn the long screw/post.
If those pictures are accurate then it's definitely a version one, good luck =]
As Mike3 pointed out, it is a two part post unscrew the first screw all the way out and it will reveal the post itself. It is also screwdriver slotted. Tighten that one as tight as possible, as it is what connects to the block. Once it is tight the block won't move. Then replace the other screw and adjust it so that it will make good contact with the 510 connection of the device you are using.
If the block will not tighten down you could shim it a bit with something that is insulating.
Aw man, it never ends. So I finally received my VAPOR DNA order and there are no center pins! Initially when they offered this for sale, the center pin came with the base, so I ordered two bases. Their illustration listed the part # according to the diagram and said, comes with three screws. That would be, the filling screw, 510 screw, and center pin.
Well I get my order and I have the filling screw, but that's it! I even noted in the comments, please ensure the three screws are the 510, center pin, and filling screw that come with the base....
Well I get my order and I have the filling screw, but that's it! I even noted in the comments, please ensure the three screws are the 510, center pin, and filling screw that come with the base....
Last edited:
Mistakes happen. My first order from them was missing an atomizer. I emailed them and they sent it the next day.
Yippie - got my replacement pins from VaporDNA. My wonky V2 is happy again. Measures .8Ωs across the +/- screws and .8Ωs from the neg screw to the 510 screw. happy, happy!
I received my replacement center pins from Vapor DNA today. I don't have anything to measure the resistance across the screws, but I finally have a 1.4Ω coil that fires 1.4Ω every time!
Does anyone know how much the center pin was from Vapor DNA? My order was mixed up and I didn't get one, now of course they're sold out. I contacted kebo via skype and asked for a center pin. They informed me russianrba.com will have one. I said, "yeah, but for 16 dollars." Their response was "so?"
[11:10:28 PM] [Sunny Chen]: shipping cost is very higher from china to usa
[11:10:30 PM] [Sunny Chen]: you can buy from usa
[11:10:36 PM] [Sunny Chen]: www.russianrba.com
[11:10:54 PM] [Sunny Chen]: you can buy from this website, they will have V1 pin tomorrow.
[11:11:19 PM] me: yes but they're charging 17 dollars for one screw
[11:11:34 PM] [Sunny Chen]: so?
[11:10:28 PM] [Sunny Chen]: shipping cost is very higher from china to usa
[11:10:30 PM] [Sunny Chen]: you can buy from usa
[11:10:36 PM] [Sunny Chen]: www.russianrba.com
[11:10:54 PM] [Sunny Chen]: you can buy from this website, they will have V1 pin tomorrow.
[11:11:19 PM] me: yes but they're charging 17 dollars for one screw
[11:11:34 PM] [Sunny Chen]: so?
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
