Russian 91% v2 irratic resistance readings
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I did receive my replacement pin from vapordna, putting it back for any future problems I might have with my V2. Currently it is still doing well, keeping fingers crossed!
hrrrumph! My 'measured' 1Ω coil which read initially was holding stable at 1.4Ω on a Provari moved on up to 1.8Ωs. Replaced that spring-pin and it's now's happily firing on a mech mod at 1.0Ωs. So that's 2 out of 2 of these V2s that were flakey for me.
VaporDNA has the center pin back in stock for $5, Russian 91 Replacement Parts.
It's still #18.
It's still #18.
Wow what an ......., if it's so insignificant you should ask him why they don't foot the bill, especially since it's their mistake in making this product which is requiring you to seek aftermarket pieces to make it function safely and properly. I bet they won't be so casual and dismissive about it then. Also, how the hell is anyone charging $17 for a single screw?! What are they doing, charging a dollar per thread on the screw or something???
I was trying to clearly explain, that's what I did, that's what's I meant my the screw which the 510 pin screws into. So does anyone know what do to fix this?
I just got a v1 about two weeks ago and have been experiencing the exact same problem, where the positive block isn't tight and when I try to tighten the center post which the 510 screw threads into all it does is make the positive block shift in the direction I'm tightening even if I've got it held with pliers, I can't tighten that screw without moving the positive post which is thus causing my russian 91 to be unusable at the moment. If anyone is aware of a solution to this issue I'd be soooo great flu and appreciative if you'd be so kind as to share it with me, thank you =]carrie-
Have you tried to see if the V1 pin will fit into the V2? I would try it but am traveling this weekVery curious as this is a huge flaw if consistent across units.
I ran into the same issue when I got my first R91. My blog shows how I tighten mine, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/carrielsal/5873-securing-center-screw-russian-91.html.
re: not being able to tighten the positive block.
hmmm? I'm thinking that perhaps there is just not enough threading on the long screw. So when you screw it to the block is 'bottoms out/runs out of threading) before the block is pulled down snug. Then anymore turning of the screw will also turn the block.
I've got no evidence or experience that this is what's happening, just my thought on it. You could test my 'guess' by putting anything under the block to act a a slim shim and see if that helps. If it helps I'm not sure what a suitable shim would be to make it a more permanent fix. Maybe a section of a carto condom - but that may be too thick.
hmmm? I'm thinking that perhaps there is just not enough threading on the long screw. So when you screw it to the block is 'bottoms out/runs out of threading) before the block is pulled down snug. Then anymore turning of the screw will also turn the block.
I've got no evidence or experience that this is what's happening, just my thought on it. You could test my 'guess' by putting anything under the block to act a a slim shim and see if that helps. If it helps I'm not sure what a suitable shim would be to make it a more permanent fix. Maybe a section of a carto condom - but that may be too thick.
Oh well, after weeks of good performance on my Banana 91 V2, mine now has started to have pin problems with erratic ohm readings.
I think it's just a matter of time regarding pin failure with the V2, Kebo should be doing something about this
I think it's just a matter of time regarding pin failure with the V2, Kebo should be doing something about this
I bought three #18 center pins from VaporDNA - two for my Banana v2s and one for my KFL+. I've replaced one v2 (works great), the other v2 is still in the box, and I'll replace the one in my KFL+ when I recoil next (in a few months maybe).
Guys, The Russian 91's are decent when you get a good one. The problem remains there is just too large of a variance on the tolerances of these parts.
And yeah, I see a dealer dropped the price to 13 dollars for the center pin screw and they won't include a 510 screw, you also need to buy that separately at 8 dollars.
SO Kebo steals the kayfun design, then charges you an arm and a leg and provides some substandard parts out there.....And remember, these russians are being sold at MSRP pricing. Dealers can't charge less, or kebo will refuse to sell to them.
Remember when madvapes sold these things for 45 bucks? Kebo caught wind and now will no longer sell to madvapes..
And yeah, I see a dealer dropped the price to 13 dollars for the center pin screw and they won't include a 510 screw, you also need to buy that separately at 8 dollars.
SO Kebo steals the kayfun design, then charges you an arm and a leg and provides some substandard parts out there.....And remember, these russians are being sold at MSRP pricing. Dealers can't charge less, or kebo will refuse to sell to them.
Remember when madvapes sold these things for 45 bucks? Kebo caught wind and now will no longer sell to madvapes..
As I said, shim it. As long as it sits between the block and the white insulator, you can use any material, even metal. I would first try using a thick piece of cardboard, say from the back of a legal pad or similar, to see if it will help.
The threads of your center post seem that they are not cut far enough and are bottoming out on the block.
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Ok. How I tightened my block down was I took out the first screw of the center pin. I loosened the block and lined it up square as it should be. With one hand I used needle nose pliers and held the block square and tight while I tightened the embedded center pin with a screw driver as tight as I could. When tight I put the smaller screw back in the center pin and adjusted it to fit my mod. It worked. Block does not move anymore.
Received my V1 center pin from VaporDNA a bit ago. Great customer service. Finally made it to a vape meet where I met up with a guy that is much better with this stuff than me. He changed out the pins for me and built me a pretty 1.6ohm coil that I have been vaping since this afternoon. No more problems. I am saving the old spring loaded pin for a museum someday.
This is why I hate buying something that is just released or a beta of anything. But my Russian seems to be fixed. Happy Happy!
This is why I hate buying something that is just released or a beta of anything. But my Russian seems to be fixed. Happy Happy!
I have a regular size Russian and a Russian 91% (I don't know why either). Honestly if I had it to do all over again I'd just get the regular size Russian and not the 91%. I don't know what the deal with the 91% is, but I've had every one of the problems mentioned in this thread and then some. I still use it, and have figured out how to get it tightened to where the ohm setting is constant...but getting to that point is a monumental pain in the ... each and every time I clean it.
Mine is one of the the polished chrome looking ones from VaporDNA, and I'll probably be selling it and all the extra parts I've accumulated for it at some point...probably sooner than later.
I've never had an issue with the full size Russian, and the difference in size is so negligible I really don't even notice it.
Mine is one of the the polished chrome looking ones from VaporDNA, and I'll probably be selling it and all the extra parts I've accumulated for it at some point...probably sooner than later.
I've never had an issue with the full size Russian, and the difference in size is so negligible I really don't even notice it.
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