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Samsung INR18650-30Q 15A 3000mAh Bench Test Results

Discussion in 'Batteries and Chargers' started by Mooch, Jun 17, 2015.

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  1. Mooch

    Mooch Electron Wrangler Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    May 13, 2015
    Tested at 5A-25A constant current. The cell was purchased from Orbtronic and donated for testing.

    Dropbox - samsung inr18650-30q wrap.jpeg

    Dropbox - samsung inr18650-30q top.jpeg

    Dropbox - samsung inr18650-30q bottom.jpeg


    Bottom Line
    Though rated at 15A by Samsung, to ensure low operating temperature and long life, this is a pretty good 20A continuous discharge rating (CDR) cell.


    Test Results
    Dropbox - samsung inr18650-30q 15a 3000mah constant-current tests.bmp


    Comments
    - Capacity drops to 2780mAh at 2.80V for 5A and 10A.
    - Capacity drops to roughly 2610mAh at 2.80V for 15A and 20A.
    - Six cycles at 20A showed almost no loss in performance, indicating that the cell wasn't being badly overstressed. But, there was about a 1% loss in capacity by the 6th discharge. I don't know how this will translate into actual cycle life. A 10A discharge done after this showed less than 1% loss of capacity.
    - Four cycles at 25A did not show any drop in voltage-under-load but there was a 2.5% loss in capacity between the first and fourth 25A discharge. The overall voltage drop at 25A was significant and the cell got too hot to recommend a CDR higher than 20A.
    - A 10A discharge done after this showed a 2% loss in capacity at 10A. Not much on its own but it does indicate that slow damage is being done at 25A.
    - Cell temperatures at 20A are comparable to other cells, indicating that cycle life at 20A should be similar.
     
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  2. BigEgo

    BigEgo Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 12, 2013
    Alabama
    So do you think this (or the LG equivalent) would be better for us 20-30w vapers over the 25R or HE4?
     
  3. Baditude

    Baditude ECF Guru ECF Veteran

    Apr 8, 2012
    Ridgeway, Ohio
    My conventional wisdom would be that the Samsung 25R, LG-HE2, and LG-HE4 will perform pretty much equally the same.
     
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  4. Mooch

    Mooch Electron Wrangler Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    May 13, 2015
    Don't know yet but you could compare my discharge graph with ones you can find for the 25R or HE4. I'll be getting around to testing the 25R and HE4 by next week though.
     
  5. TonyB66

    TonyB66 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 7, 2014
    London, UK
    I have just got 4 of the new 30Q's and although not a Scientific test they don't seem to last as long as my VTC5 or HE2 that I have been using in my Vaporshark rDNA40.

    I run a Ni200 build using 28AWG with a resistance anywhere between 01.14-0.16 depending on number of wraps.

    The difference is minimal but noticeable. These are just my early observations.
     
  6. Monotremata

    Monotremata Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 15, 2014
    Covina, CA
    Give em a few charge cycles before they 'wake up'.. They dont have that much more mAh than the HE2/VTCs but they should definitely last a couple hours longer I would think.. Batteries usually take a couple of charge cycles before they break in and really start rocking, at least in my experience.
     
  7. Mooch

    Mooch Electron Wrangler Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    May 13, 2015
    Pulse discharges might lead to different results than the constant current tests. The 30Q's are really getting pounded at those current levels and their capacity might be suffering compared to the VTC5's or HE2's. They perform best at under 20A, around .18-.2 ohms or higher.
     
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  8. TonyB66

    TonyB66 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 7, 2014
    London, UK
    Thanks Mooch, I think your probably right. Might have to switch to thinner wire to bring the resistance up. As you probably know the difficultly with Ni200 is getting the coil with the appropriate resistance to fit in the tank/atomiser. I use a Kayfun 4 so try not to wrap more than 10-12 times to get a good fit with a spaced coil.
     
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  9. KenD

    KenD Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    Aug 20, 2013
    Stockholm, Sweden
    With regulated mods the resistance of the coil doesn't factor into the amp draw. Wattage and battery charge are all that matter. The amp draw increases as the charge drops due to the batteries being pushed harder to deliver the same power.

    Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
     
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  10. Mooch

    Mooch Electron Wrangler Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    May 13, 2015
    Ack...good point!
    I completely missed that he was using a rDNA40.
     
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  11. Pete54

    Pete54 Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 30, 2009
    Clearwater, Florida
    FWIW, using the total joules used counter on my SX Mini, I was getting between 24k-25k out of my 25R's in Eco mode. Using the 30Q's I'm getting between 32k-33k. So for my set up I'm definitely getting longer run times.
     
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  12. tehmidcap

    tehmidcap Super Member Verified Member

    Mar 13, 2015
    PA
    So, I'm trying to figure this out just for the sake of understanding it. I can go into Steam-Engine to figure batteries needed for VW/VV devices (not yet for TC, though)

    Basically I was trying to figure out whether or not 30Qs would be safe to run in an IPV4, and whether or not I would see any real advantage of it (versus possible disadvantage of losing battery cycle life). The explained math at the bottom is a bit confusing to me, and becomes even more confusing due to the fact that my use would be batteries in series. I never owned a series mod until now so I never bothered learning too much about how the current is pulled. From my understand the math is the same except battery voltage.

    So, thinking of it as a single 8.4 volt battery to put into Steam-Engine, at the full 100 watts and an estimated minimum battery charge of 5V, the maximum amperage draw would be about 22amps (with an efficiency at 93%)... So that would be the actual amp draw from EACH battery (44amps total) correct?

    Just making sure the way I'm thinking of this is correct.

    And, since Wattage = Joules/Seconds... Could I just think of the max 50 joules as 50 watts and speculate that when in TC mode the amp draw would be roughly half (11amps from each battery) or would thinking about it in joules make the above math something completely different?
     
  13. Dampmaskin

    Dampmaskin Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jan 28, 2014
    Norway
    When you input the total voltage of the batteries in series, the voltage is divided between the batteries, the current is not. (In parallel it is the other way around.)

    So in series 22A seems right for 100W, at 5V. Although the mod will probably cut out earlier (at a higher battery voltage) because of battery sag.
     
  14. folkphys

    folkphys Super Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 27, 2013
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Power (watts) = Voltage x Current(Amps)

    We'll use 6V as the minimum overall battery voltage, which would be 3.0v on each cell (as long as their draining evenly)
    So thats:
    100w = 6v x ?Amps
    (100w)/(6v) = ?Amps
    = 16.67A

    That's a likely scenario with a maximum current draw on each battery of 16.67A. And per Mooch's results, it would seem that a pair of 30Q's should be able to handle that. But a pair of 25r's instead, might give you a little extra peace of mind, and of course as the 30Q's age, they certainly lose some of their mAh, which means likewise their CDR......
     
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