RDA Sapor RDA by Wotofo

[caboog78]

After playing around with both of mine, I put them in their original config and put the SS deck with the SS cap on a regulated mod. I saw the resistance jumping around some, so pulled it off and checked. Sure enough, the 510 post was loose. Tightened it down, and resistance stabilized a bit lower than it had been reading (from .44 to .37 ohm). It is officially not going on a hybrid mech again. Great atty, but I don't feel it's safe to run on a hybrid type mech at this point. My black/green splatter one is still doing fine though, so I got that going for me. Which is nice

 

[bkim1]

Just got my Sapor in the other day and so far it has been an ok experience. Does everyone else's o-rings for the base seem loose? The top cap comes off way too easily for me and it doesn't seem like the cap will stay on tight at all. When I try to pull off the AFC ring I usually end up pulling the entire cap off since the tolerances are so loose.

Other than that, I'm not super amazed by the flavor/vapor production of this atty. The Vector had better flavor to me, but I prefer the way the AFC works on this atty since on the Vector it was too easy to block the air holes with your mouth. Overall, for the price, I think that it's a fine atty, but the o-rings are annoying to me.

 

[caboog78]

Just got my Sapor in the other day and so far it has been an ok experience. Does everyone else's o-rings for the base seem loose? The top cap comes off way too easily for me and it doesn't seem like the cap will stay on tight at all. When I try to pull off the AFC ring I usually end up pulling the entire cap off since the tolerances are so loose.

Other than that, I'm not super amazed by the flavor/vapor production of this atty. The Vector had better flavor to me, but I prefer the way the AFC works on this atty since on the Vector it was too easy to block the air holes with your mouth. Overall, for the price, I think that it's a fine atty, but the o-rings are annoying to me.

My second Sapor defintly has the same loose top cap that you're describing. Haven't fooled around with it enough yet to be bothered by it so far. One trick for that is wrap a piece of dental floss beneath the oring. Works on drip tips at least, though the base of the atty may get too hot for this to be practical.

 

[Tom Forde]

Picked up a stainless/silver Sapor to go with my stainless SMPL clone, also from Wotofo. Put a build on it, got a fresh 25R out, set everything up and.... nothing. Seems as if the 510 connector is too short on the one I have. It works fine on my other devices, just not the hybrid style mech I wanted it for. First world problems, I know. It threw me off because I have another, in the black/green splatter, that has lived on a green SMPL clone since the day it came home, so bad luck on the tolerances for me somewhere.

Edit to add: Swapping parts around saved the day! The deck from the splatter has a slightly longer pin than the one in the stainless in my specific case. No idea if that is a thing in general or luck of the draw as far as manufacturing goes. Both decks make good contact on my green SMPL, and the deck form the splatter top works on the SS SMPL, so a little swap and I'm in business, aesthetically speaking. Tinkering FTW! My SS SMPL could probably use some cleaning while I'm at it, as well, which may or may not impact things here.

Edit2: Nope, bad news all around for the second Sapor. See my next post

As for the center pin issue, both my sapor's were SS. I just shelved it in favor of a black and gold Twisted Messes and a Kennedy 24, which, surprisingly does NOT leak at all and I've filled it up and held it on its side to test it. It just doesn't leak. A little bit (maybe literally a drop) of juice will go into the afc on the bottom of the Kennedy but when you take a hit of it, what happens is that little bit of juice gets sucked right back into the atty. I gotta admit, Kennedy Enterprises got this one right.

 

[TheJester]

Got mine today. I have to say this thing is dreamy. For 10$ for a f*$&ing authentic? Unreal.

I was looking for something with much more airflow than my marquis. Found it. The flavor is slightly more muted than the marquis but being able to do a nice big lung hit without suffocating is fantastic.

I thought dual coil only would upset me because I use TC only. I found Ti wire makes dual coils a breeze and Ti wire in this thing is perfect. No spit back with TC on any of the drip tips either.

No leaking. I'm incredibly happy!

 

[Vapin Dave]

I have been watching this one, but recently passed for a Velocity mini. The top airflow no leak design does intrigue me though!

 

[Mrez]

Had a sapor for a few weeks now. Cleaned it a few times and still got a slight off taste with dual fused coils. Replaced with standard Clapton's and it seems better. Positive post is very loose and can't seem to tighten it down so it doesn't spin when I put in new coils. It's a decent enough preformer but something just seems off on it. Vector out preforms by every measure IMHO.

 

[Tom Forde]

Had a sapor for a few weeks now. Cleaned it a few times and still got a slight off taste with dual fused coils. Replaced with standard Clapton's and it seems better. Positive post is very loose and can't seem to tighten it down so it doesn't spin when I put in new coils. It's a decent enough preformer but something just seems off on it. Vector out preforms by every measure IMHO.

The center pin and insulator around it are a flawed set up. They didn't use a quality insulator around the rhodium plated pin or the rhodium plating retains too much heat. The centerpost won't spin too much because of the square insulator up top on the deck. You need to push the center post down and hold it down flush with the negative posts and screw the center pin back into the post. Chances are the insulator will stick out farther than the posi pin itself. I won't ever buy a Wotofo product again, quality is sub sub par.

 

[Mrez]

The center pin and insulator around it are a flawed set up. They didn't use a quality insulator around the rhodium plated pin or the rhodium plating retains too much heat. The centerpost won't spin too much because of the square insulator up top on the deck. You need to push the center post down and hold it down flush with the negative posts and screw the center pin back into the post. Chances are the insulator will stick out farther than the posi pin itself. I won't ever buy a Wotofo product again, quality is sub sub par.

Yeah this is my second wotofo product, and I thought about ordering the Lush, but decided to pass. I already have a Mutation X2 which is essentially the same set up. I'll try the push down next time I put new coils on it, but I have to be honest, when I put those claptons on it last night and tightened down, the center post turned almost a full quarter around. Really ....ty. I've got a velocity clone coming to try out, and again, since I think the Vector is basically the better version of the Sapor, I may just order a second one of those.

 

[Tom Forde]

Yeah this is my second wotofo product, and I thought about ordering the Lush, but decided to pass. I already have a Mutation X2 which is essentially the same set up. I'll try the push down next time I put new coils on it, but I have to be honest, when I put those claptons on it last night and tightened down, the center post turned almost a full quarter around. Really ....ty. I've got a velocity clone coming to try out, and again, since I think the Vector is basically the better version of the Sapor, I may just order a second one of those.

A vector with a comp cap by JayBo designs is nice. An Aeolus v2 is also nice. A Sapor is a $9 atty that is sold for $30. What I like about the Aeolus is the fact that the posts on the deck aren't hollow, so coil leads don't go into the post. Both are good atties and around pretty much the same price.

 

[sahsah]

I avoid B&Ms like the plague, but that's where I would go if I needed post screws. I've always wished that atty makers would charge an extra buck or two and give us enough supplies to upkeep for a long while.

Ikr, especially with the Sapor RDA. I love it so much but I've already had to purchase multiple sapors just bc the screws keep stripping and replacements are literally impossible to find. I've been to about a dozen hardware stores and Home Depots adding up to around 15 hours at least trying to match it and had no success. On top of that, wotofo seems vehemently commuted to ignoring my emails requesting the sizes of the screws and the corresponding hex key. I'm seriously at my wits end here. Honestly for like 20 replacement screws and five hex keys I think I'd pay $50 I'm so desperate, smh...

 

[sahsah]

I recommend contacting the vendor. I know that vapordna and myfreedomsmokes also carries the Sapor so maybe they may have extra screws.

I tried contacting wotofo just for sizing info on the screws and they seem determined to ignore their customer base, smh
I've been to so many hardware stores trying to match the screws and even the Allen key but have not been very succesful. I love this RDA so I don't know what to do = [

 

[sahsah]

Looks like a good buy. I wonder how it performs compared to the HASTUR and the VECTOR.

I was surprised by how much more I liked it over the vector, my previous favorite atty. I just wish I could find replacement screws

 

[sahsah]

I got one of these also, had to have it when I saw it. I have a rogue too. After having the rogue for a year or so, I just applied the coil placement I learned from using the rogue. I build them as high to the air slots as I can. I don't place cotton directly under the coils also. I find that if that is kept clear it creates a path for the air to travel down, then under the coil.

How high, like above the top of your posts?

 

[izen]

I tried contacting wotofo just for sizing info on the screws and they seem determined to ignore their customer base, smh
I've been to so many hardware stores trying to match the screws and even the Allen key but have not been very succesful. I love this RDA so I don't know what to do = [

Maybe foolish question but, have you tried Metric sizes?

 

[Seesull]

I also got this a few days ago. I love it. Only complaint I have is the 510. Non adjustable and it's made out of rhodium

 

[sahsah]

Maybe foolish question but, have you tried Metric sizes?

Funny you should mention that, because after all my hands-on trials and researching I've narrowed it down to two,possible sizes the hex key could be. Obviously, once I've nailed that down (see what I did there? lol) definitively to a single size, I'll be able to ascertain the size of the grub screws themselves as well. For anyone that's also facing this issue or is just curious the two sizes it could be are either 1/16 of an inch in SAE or 1.5 mm in Metric. Hopefully I will have the time to head over to Home Depot today and finally be able to determine the answer to these sizes unequivocally, once and for all...
No thanks to Wotofo, smh
Really lost a lot of respect for them after going through all of this bs, when they could have easily just replied to any one of my emails giving me the sizes. Just shows once they've got your money, they couldn't care less/give a fm not about their customer base, pretty messed up imo...

 

[sahsah]

Okay so an update on my issues with the Sapor. I don't know if this is a flaw to the design or if I just got two flawed Sapors. The positive center pin and insulator surrounding it. It seems like the center pin screw carries too much heat with the rhodium plating. My first Sapor, I was running a build around .12-.15Ω. I was using strictly 30A batteries: VTC4's & Nitecore 30A/2000mAh inside of my direct to battery mech. Now normally when I thread the bottom button housing onto the mod, there will be a small gap between the button housing and the battery tube part of the mod due to most 18650's varying in size of a couple mm. That's normal to me.
On day 5 of my first Sapor, I changed out my battery, threaded the button housing back on and when I hit the point where there would usually be a gap, the housing kept threading on with a slight bit of resistance. Me being all paranoid of shorting out, pulled everything apart and saw that the center pin had moved up inwards past the insulator. I took the chimney/topcap off the Sapor and I saw that the T-block center post had been pushed up because of this. I hadn't touched the center pin prior to this happening. So I push the T block center post back down and hear an audible click noise and saw that the insulator/center pin had also moved down. Faulty insulator I thought. But then I tried tightening the center pin & it was already tight - it just pushed the center post up again. I swapped out for a higher ohm build and same thing happened.
So after 7 days of owning the first I brought it back to the B&M I got it from, they replaced it for free with a new unit. I throw it on an IPV4 with a .25Ω build at 65w & THE SAME THING HAPPENED! Detrimental flaw to the design of this rda.

I think this may be due to the insulator being press fit in...maybe running such a low resistance (and therefore hot) build initially you melted it just a smidge, but enough to loosen it so that now it doesn't stay in place.mjust a guess, based on the description you gave. Good luck, it's really a shame since it's such an impressively performing atty...

 

[sahsah]

Picked up a stainless/silver Sapor to go with my stainless SMPL clone, also from Wotofo. Put a build on it, got a fresh 25R out, set everything up and.... nothing. Seems as if the 510 connector is too short on the one I have. It works fine on my other devices, just not the hybrid style mech I wanted it for. First world problems, I know. It threw me off because I have another, in the black/green splatter, that has lived on a green SMPL clone since the day it came home, so bad luck on the tolerances for me somewhere.

Edit to add: Swapping parts around saved the day! The deck from the splatter has a slightly longer pin than the one in the stainless in my specific case. No idea if that is a thing in general or luck of the draw as far as manufacturing goes. Both decks make good contact on my green SMPL, and the deck form the splatter top works on the SS SMPL, so a little swap and I'm in business, aesthetically speaking. Tinkering FTW! My SS SMPL could probably use some cleaning while I'm at it, as well, which may or may not impact things here.

Edit2: Nope, bad news all around for the second Sapor. See my next post

I'm fairly certain that the 610 pin is adjustable, so you should be able to just unscrew the 510 pin to make up for the lack of connection. Hope that helps = ]
Edit: whoops, I was confusing it with another atty I got at the same time that DOES have an adjustable 510 pin, nvmd. Sounds like you may have received a defective product with a QC issue. Maybe try getting the distributor you purchased it from to swap it out for a new one.mworth a try at least...good luck = ]

 

[Tom Forde]

I think this may be due to the insulator being press fit in...maybe running such a low resistance (and therefore hot) build initially you melted it just a smidge, but enough to loosen it so that now it doesn't stay in place.mjust a guess, based on the description you gave. Good luck, it's really a shame since it's such an impressively performing atty...

Eh no. The insulator on my Kennedy 24 is press fit along with the centerpost & pin assembly. It was a problem with TWO, not one, but two different Sapors. Both new out of the shrink wrap box. It's just inferior quality. I highly advise against buying one considering you can get a Vector for about $29-35 these days, which is a much more quality atty & true top air with a better design similar to the Aeolus v1/v2. Or the new style Indestructable atty by JayBo/Wismec, which has the comp cap that'll fit a vector.