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TUS172

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So last week someone suggested trying 2 wicks interdependent of one another with a nonresistant wire between the coils on each wick. This morning I did just that and instead of wrapping the coil around a 24 ga wire to make the tube I used two bundles(combined strands) off a 1/8" fiberglass wick as a core with about a 1/4" of strands hanging out each end. I just used the standard length of coil 4.5" and cut it in half when I had finished wrapping it. To attach the coils I used silver wire and instead of using the tie method that they usually do for the IATTYs I used the silver connection beads. I used 32Ga Nichrome for each coil, 4 wraps on the + wick & 3 wraps on the Ground wick (Don't know that it matters). The coils are ran in series, Positive side coil to the NR wire... NR wire to Ground side coil. I've had it up and running for just over 3 hours. I am vaping off a Saber Touch 5V regulated mod right now... This thing is producing extremely well. The coils never glowed once, the vapor production is better than the looped wick and the flavor is exactly the same as the stainless wick design.
The only downside is that it took a bit of time to wrap two coils and attach them with the NR wire. It took me about 45 minutes to get the whole process done. But I am sure in the future that will not be the case.
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Scubabatdan

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Hi Dan,

The G-TankUS looks awesome and I will be in for 3. What's the latest on the ScubaV6? I have not seen anything mentioned in quite a while. Are you still planing a co-op on the V6?

Thanks!

Steve

Good question, I have not heard squat out of the company I sent it to for a quote. Will check with them this week.
Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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OK before I begin, I will not do a co-op on this. Period! This is just to show you what can be done. I had a user ask me if I could make a smaller G-Tank. Well I thought, this should be a challenge, so I designed it in a CAD program and thought, this is do able.
So here was the concept. Micro-G:
10mm x 63.4mm, five SS parts and 1 brass part
MicroG-1.jpg


So I started with the bottom and worked my way up making the parts, here is part #1 and part #2 next to the original G-Tank
IMG_0803.jpg


Kinda looks like a 510 to 801 adapter when put together
IMG_0802.jpg


This was the tricky part, part #3 This little sucker required threading and precise drilling.
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First three parts assembled on an ego
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Part #4 and #5, the tank and the cover went a lot faster and I could see it coming together.
IMG_0809.jpg


Fully assembled next to a 510 atty
IMG_0811.jpg


Ok now that all the pieces were made I still had to drill out the engine electrical connections and insert the coil and SS wick. I used a 1/8” SS 0-80 screw for the neg, and a sewing needle for the pos post
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Here is the wick poking out of the top piece after testing the coil
IMG_0815.jpg


Well how does it work you may ask…
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Like a micro champ!
The tank holds .8ml of juice and last for about 30 puffs. As I said this was a “can I make it project” I have no intention of doing a co-op or producing these.
Now if someone wants to run a co-op on these, I will be more than happy to send you all of the .ems (e-machine shop) files to make the order. Me personally I think it is too small and does not last long enough for my taste. I think the total cost to be produce by emachine shop was 20.00 based on 200 units.
So again NO I will not do a co-op LOL
I hope you have enjoyed my little show :)
Dan
 
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Scubabatdan

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Jumping subject,
Here is my idea for solving the T-Tank leakage problem:
G-Tank-US-Mid.jpg
Well what do yall think?
It is just a 7/64" extension built in and will not impede normal tank operations. The wick will be centered in the PTFE high temp insert so it will not touch the T-tank sealing hole. This will ensure that there will be no leaking from the T-tank.
Dan
 
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Scubabatdan

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