Should I get a fuse?
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Far be it for me to advise against any possible safety precaution, but as long as you know how to measure ohms on your coils, battery voltage, and how to calculate the amp draw your build is pulling from your battery you should be just fine. Just my opinion, and you may get different answers from others.
I guess if you can add a fuse to your device easily... why the heck not?
I guess if you can add a fuse to your device easily... why the heck not?
Yeah I have the calculator and the way I see it for me to come close to being in trouble i'd have to do a build at like .2 to be anywhere near in trouble with a decent battery. Just the way everyone talks about mechs turning into bite-sized pipe bombs has me a little sketched out. I think i'm over worrying really.
fuse might be nice for unprotected batteries , if protected - you should not need it,
also, you can read about kick,
which will help you to get good protection and a bit more...
Kick normally works down to 0.5 Ohm resistance.
BTW, pls read about discharging the battery belong certain voltage - it is also bad for the battery.
also, you can read about kick,
which will help you to get good protection and a bit more...
Kick normally works down to 0.5 Ohm resistance.
BTW, pls read about discharging the battery belong certain voltage - it is also bad for the battery.
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I thought protected batteries were out and high drain was preferred? I'm currently debating on a kick.
Already read about the discharge as well but thatnks for the heads up.
This Kick 2 is a fantastic little gizmo. Not only will it regulate your wattage output, it offers short-circuit protection as well as reverse battery protection (I think)......It will also notify you when its time to charge your battery....I once had a short in my atty, and the kick let me know by making a 'ticking' sound....if I didn't have the Kick installed I could've blown my battery up!!
I JUST watched pbusardo's kick2 review lol. It's reverse battery protection is that the kick dies lol.
if you're going to get sony vtc4s, you don't really need a kick. the 30 amp limit is more than adequate. the battery chemistry is very safe as well, so it's not going to blow up in your face. things will just get hot very quickly, so you can take it apart and let it cool if you have a short.
to the person who said protected is better, it is not in mechs. don't use protected batteries in mechs.
to the person who said protected is better, it is not in mechs. don't use protected batteries in mechs.
In this day of modern battery technology, there is no reason to use a protected ICR Li-ion battery.
IMR (Li-Mn) and the newer hybrid batteries are inherently safer than ICR Li-ion. This class is also known as "unprotected", high drain, and safe chemistry batteries. These batteries have Nickle and Manganese within the chemistry which makes them safer than the Cobalt ICR batteries (which is a voltatile and flamable chemistry). IMR and hybrid batteries may still vent gas when they fail, but not as dramatically as an ICR.
Be aware that there are un-protected ICR Li-ion batteries that are listed for sale on various websites. None of these should ever be used in any mod. These are for other applications such as flashlights.
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
On the question concerning a Vape Safe Mod Fuse, I believe one should be used in a mechanical mod. You have essentially no protective circuitry in a mech (unlike a regulated mod) to protect against short circuits. Many mechanical mods today are no longer being supplied with collapsable hot springs. There's nothing to protect your battery or your mechanical mod other than yourself. Add at least one level of safety by using a Vape Safe Fuse.
IMR (Li-Mn) and the newer hybrid batteries are inherently safer than ICR Li-ion. This class is also known as "unprotected", high drain, and safe chemistry batteries. These batteries have Nickle and Manganese within the chemistry which makes them safer than the Cobalt ICR batteries (which is a voltatile and flamable chemistry). IMR and hybrid batteries may still vent gas when they fail, but not as dramatically as an ICR.
Be aware that there are un-protected ICR Li-ion batteries that are listed for sale on various websites. None of these should ever be used in any mod. These are for other applications such as flashlights.
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
On the question concerning a Vape Safe Mod Fuse, I believe one should be used in a mechanical mod. You have essentially no protective circuitry in a mech (unlike a regulated mod) to protect against short circuits. Many mechanical mods today are no longer being supplied with collapsable hot springs. There's nothing to protect your battery or your mechanical mod other than yourself. Add at least one level of safety by using a Vape Safe Fuse.
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i just got a vape safe 7a and I am much more at ease now that I have it. Does anyone know if the fuse can be put on the positive side as well or will it cause a problem?
Thanks
Thanks
Vape Safe Fuses are designed to be used on the negative side of the battery. See my previous post with the image of the safety fuse.
Just wondering if you've heard of or used the shortstop? You seem to be the battery guru 'round these parts so I was wondering what you thought of it. I got it from myvaporstore.
I have heard of the Shortstop Fuse. I have no experience with it or the Vape Safe Mod Fuse. I don't use mechanical mods much any more, although that may change as I'm considering getting back into rebuildables sometime in the future.
I've been a little gun shy of mechanicals since I had a protected battery explode in one of my mechs. This was due to some unsafe battery practices when I was first starting out vaping. This incident prompted me to research about batteries and mods, and I chose to focus my vaping with the safer regulated mods and safer-chemistry batteries such as IMR's.
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