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Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

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Lhartman89

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Threads are clean and run about the same length as far as the eye can see. I also followed the threads with my finger nails on both cap to see if there were any indifference's but none that i notice. Also the pic is without any battery in the device.

I suspect that where the thread ends, it doesn't have a good finishing cut. if you know what i'm trying to describe.

I notified the vendor and they are convinced that the cap is within "normal tolerance" if it fires and will settle with further use.

Can you try twisting back and fourth trying to work it all the way in? Maybe put some Vaseline or something on it?
 

pastubbs

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After viewing the posts on modifying the switch, I noticed there wasn't a post on replacing the brass/copper bolt with the magnet attached.

Are the threads not a standard metric? I wanted to know what type of bolt would thread into the actual button.

Before ordering, I would like to know if I could mod the switch with a few washers/nuts and bolt, without the use of a drill press and tap set.

You know I was thinking the same thing why go trough the trouble of trying to remove the magnet from the brass screw when you can just replaced the the whole thing with a brass screw. So I took out my metric tread gauge and surprisingly it didn't fit so I took out my standard tread gauge and there you go.
2013-07-08+00.20.39.jpg

The top cap screw is 3/16-24 or #10-24
The bottom switch screw is 1/4 by 28 I couldn't find this one in brass but I'm sure if you search around you can find one.
 

Statistic

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Hey nice... freaking flask, man!

You know I was thinking the same thing why go trough the trouble of trying to remove the magnet from the brass screw when you can just replaced the the whole thing with a brass screw. So I took out my metric tread gauge and surprisingly it didn't fit so I took out my standard tread gauge and there you go.
2013-07-08+00.20.39.jpg

The top cap screw is 3/16-24 or #10-24
The bottom switch screw is 1/4 by 28 I couldn't find this one in brass but I'm sure if you search around you can find one.
 

whit77

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You are not throwing them under the bus, they are doing it to themselves. There is clearly something wrong with either the threading on your cap or the threading on the tube. They should attempt to help you, IMO. If they don't, they've lost me as a customer too...I wouldn't want that to happen to me.

Indeed as a customer if your not satisfied its up to the vendor to go out their way until you are whether it be a $1 or $100 item, to me they are just fobbing you off, which to me says they don't really care if your happy with the product or not, we have your money no go whistle. My advice is now point them to this thread :D
 
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pastubbs

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Yup did all that. Use alot of elbow grease too. It gets to a certain point then stops threading.

I had similar problems with mine only the Nzonic cap goes on just fine but the regular cap looks like the one from your photo. I basically put on some rubber palm gloves not rubber gloves but the cloth kind with rubber grippe palms. Screwed it in all the way, backed it out, screwed it, etc I did that several times its fine now. But long story short there definitely some issues with the treading on the caps there's a small portion of the treads that just doesn't go all the way down.
 

zipflint

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Is there any reason to believe that the brass/copper (plated/whatever it might REALLY be) #19 will be any better out-of-the-box?
I'm a sucker so I've got one ordered.
If nothing else, it'll look nice.
Unless it has the stinkin' laser etched sigelei logo on it.....
grrrrrr.....
mental note....do not order things until AFTER coffee.....
 

gdeal

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Is there any reason to believe that the brass/copper (plated/whatever it might REALLY be) #19 will be any better out-of-the-box?
I'm a sucker so I've got one ordered.
If nothing else, it'll look nice.
Unless it has the stinkin' laser etched Sigelei logo on it.....
grrrrrr.....
mental note....do not order things until AFTER coffee.....

The 19E is brass. And out of the box works much better than the original SS 19 for me. Whats really nice is that it really doesnt need any modding and hits very hard. There are a couple of post in this thread that talk about care and feeding and possible switch and spring mods to make it even better. Couple pages back if you are interested....
 

zipflint

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Thanks very much! I did a search and landed somewhere in the middle of this thread, read about 5 pages, and then skipped to the end. I'll start backtracking now.
What about that #(@! logo? I know a poster from the UK said his vendor had it removed. I'm guessing those of us in the US who ordered from vaportek will just hafta wait and see.


The 19E is brass. And out of the box works much better than the original SS 19 for me. Whats really nice is that it really doesnt need any modding and hits very hard. There are a couple of post in this thread that talk about care and feeding and possible switch and spring mods to make it even better. Couple pages back if you are interested....
 

NamVet68

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Thanks very much! I did a search and landed somewhere in the middle of this thread, read about 5 pages, and then skipped to the end. I'll start backtracking now.
What about that #(@! logo? I know a poster from the UK said his vendor had it removed. I'm guessing those of us in the US who ordered from vaportek will just hafta wait and see.

No worries. I got mine from Vaportek & it has no Logo on it whatsoever, and it is made of 100% brass (except the springs, magnets, and various Delrin bits).

It works much better than my #19a did right out-of-the-box, and after a few simple modifications, is now one of my hardest-hitting mechanicals. You won't regret it......

One caveat; I removed the top spring after it got cocked sideways & shorted across the positive pole and the top of the battery (got pretty hot all of a sudden). I think I may have caused the problem by tightening down the telescoping tubes too far, but I would recommend either removing the top spring (easy - one small Phillips-head screw) or just be careful when putting a new battery in.
 

zipflint

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If I remove the top spring, I'm assuming (and we all know what that does, har har) I'd need to replace that with something else....?

I think I may have caused the problem by tightening down the telescoping tubes too far, but I would recommend either removing the top spring (easy - one small Phillips-head screw) or just be careful when putting a new battery in.
 

Bmays

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If I remove the top spring, I'm assuming (and we all know what that does, har har) I'd need to replace that with something else....?

No, not at all unless you want to use it in 18350 mode. Then yes. Mine are 18650 only with springs removed.

Sent from my MILESTONE3 using Tapatalk 2
 

zipflint

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Hrrmmm....it will just depend on how it feels in-hand. I keep my other two mechs (a China GG with flat top cap) and Kamry K100 in 18350 mode. And I've just been using them for dripping atomizers and RBA/RDA things. I'm looking forward to the #19 now. I wanted the original when I first saw it but after reading about all the issues with misfires and the work/skill/patience required to fix it, I decided to just wait for the next big thing.

Now I just hafta see if the Caravela clone is worth a rip. ;)

No, not at all unless you want to use it in 18350 mode. Then yes. Mine are 18650 only with springs removed.
 

NamVet68

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I run both my #19s in 18500 mode all the time now. To me - it's just the right size in that configuration. I've got a bunch of 18490/18500 batteries laying around to use with my Kicks in 18650 tubes, so I can also put them to good use in the 19s..

The Caravela Clone (8W) I have on order is coming with the 18350 tube, so that should fill the void for a small pocket rocket (though I emailed Vaportek & they said that they will be getting different length spare tubes from Sigelei in the future, so we will be able to set them up any way we want).
 
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peraspera

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I've submitted several tickets with exhalevapors. Even sent them this photo just to have them tell me that as long as it fires everything is fine. They even sent me a link of this post which is why im here. And I hate to throw them under the bus for this but looks like i'm ..... out of luck.

Exhale is an ECF supplier so you can post your issue with them in the Reviews of Suppliers - Negative forum which basically works like a public trouble ticket. It's not a place for a ranting. Exhale will be able to respond and, hopefully, work out the issue for you. Read all the stickies before posting.
 

BWhare

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My magnets showed up today. Had to increase the ID a bit but now they fit. I added a washer to the delrin cup to decrease the throw and sanded down the original attached magnet a tad because I just couldn't bring myself to try and remove it. The whole thing works like a charm.

I've taken off the top spring mostly because I didn't really like the feel when tightening the whole thing up. Of course, now, it doesn't take 18350's (I can always put the spring back on if I feel the urge).

I was wondering if something like this would take up the necessary space:
http://.........blogspot.com/2013/07/safe-kamry-safevape-fuse-358.html
I don't have one so I have no idea of its thickness (and there's no mention of whether this particular version is resettable or not either - which is absolutely necessary - at least for me).
 
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