Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

[NamVet68]

Speaking of fire-button issues... I tripped over this video on YouTube for a replacement button for the #6 Telescope. I wonder if it would fit on a #19, and where to get one:

Review on a Firing Mechanism Upgrade for the Sigelei Telescope - YouTube

Looks like a really well-made piece. I looked around for the web site mentioned but couldn't find anything that resembled the switch...
Anyone seen anything similar?

 

[minimalsaint]

And on mine before I added a bit of NR nickel wire around the spring, a nice little shock sometimes to remind you not to chain vape.

LOL or a burnt pinky from the damn hot button. I pulled the magnet off my switch, added a brass piece for contact on the battery and used the copper wire mod for the button. Zero misfires, shorts and shocks- and zero voltage drop.
It took me a few tries and different tricks to get there, but now it is extremely enjoyable!!

 

[gdeal]

I have a #6 and the switches are interchangeable with the #19. Funny... as bad as the original 19 switch was, the #6 switch design was so much worse. You cant even really mod it, except for tweaking the spring.

I couldn't find the switch on that site either. I would be in for two.

Edit. BTW - lol on the chickens in the background audio...

Speaking of fire-button issues... I tripped over this video on YouTube for a replacement button for the #6 Telescope. I wonder if it would fit on a #19, and where to get one:

Review on a Firing Mechanism Upgrade for the Sigelei Telescope - YouTube

Looks like a really well-made piece. I looked around for the web site mentioned but couldn't find anything that resembled the switch...
Anyone seen anything similar?

 

[BWhare]

I ran across this from the guy at Sun Vapors:



Another interesting fix for the sloppy play in the firing pin.

 

[Thraizer]

Speaking of fire-button issues... I tripped over this video on YouTube for a replacement button for the #6 Telescope. I wonder if it would fit on a #19, and where to get one:

Review on a Firing Mechanism Upgrade for the Sigelei Telescope - YouTube

Looks like a really well-made piece. I looked around for the web site mentioned but couldn't find anything that resembled the switch...
Anyone seen anything similar?

Seen that video also and found nothing on the interweb about the switch. I guess we're stuck modding the switch lol but its all good, my ss 19 and 19e are doing pretty good with just the copper wire mod.

 

[Stoneface]

I ran across this from the guy at Sun Vapors:
...
Another interesting fix for the sloppy play in the firing pin.

He also has a pretty good blog going, and there is an entry concerning them discontinuing the 19 as well, if anyone wants to check it out.

 

[NamVet68]

OK... I found a supplier for the button assy (for $8.00!!) in the Philippines, but I have no clue how to go about getting a few...anyone have experience with how this is done?

http://www.sulit.com.ph/index.php/view+classifieds/id/12562513/FIRING+BUTTON+FOR+TELESCOPIC+MOD?referralKeywords=fire+button&event=Search+Ranking,Position,1-2,2

(looks like it's the one in the center)

 

[JPG1911]

Allrighty guys, time to throw in my .o2

I tried ALL the tricks listed here for getting my glued switch apart, except slotting the magnet because I lost my dremel cutoff wheel mandrel and kept forgetting to go buy a new one until I was home and a few beers deep. Nothing worked... alcohol, acetone, denatured alcohol, paint thinner, boiling boiling boiling, and torching, then, while reading through these pages, I was admiring the 9mm shell casing mod and I had a stroke of genius. Something all gun owners have handy at all times, a good 'ol bottle of Hoppe's #9 ...!!! I soaked the switch for about 30 minutes and it practically unthreaded its-self.

I don't know yet if it was repeated attempts with alcohol soaks that weakened the glue, or if Hoppe's is just that awesome, but I will find out later tonight or tomorrow when I soak my buddy's unmolested switch and attempt to get it apart for him. I will report back when confirmed, both 19b's came from exhalevapors in the same shipment about 2 weeks ago. When I first got the mod, my bottom magnet was a little crooked, it rarely misfired, and I don't think I ever had a hot button. I took the switch out, set it on a towel, placed a nutdriver on the magnet and whacked it with a hammer to seat the magnet. That's when the hot button started and CONSTANT misfires - like 2/3 of the time. Now that I've gotten the switch apart and stretched the spring (about 2 hours ago) I've had 1 miss and 1 hot button. SUBSTANTIALLY better vape!! In a few minutes I'm going to stretch/widen the spring a little more and maybe do the wire wrap mod. Still haven't decided if the magnet will stay or go, for now it stays... but I know I won't be able to leave this thing alone forever

 

[gdeal]

Definitely report back on that! I have this daily ritual with my locked 19E switch, sort like a morning workout. Squeeze and twist...Squeeze and twist.

Hoppe's #9 in the cart at Amazon (w/prime) waiting.

Allrighty guys, time to throw in my .o2

I tried ALL the tricks listed here for getting my glued switch apart, except slotting the magnet because I lost my dremel cutoff wheel mandrel and kept forgetting to go buy a new one until I was home and a few beers deep. Nothing worked... alcohol, acetone, denatured alcohol, paint thinner, boiling boiling boiling, and torching, then, while reading through these pages, I was admiring the 9mm shell casing mod and I had a stroke of genius. Something all gun owners have handy at all times, a good 'ol bottle of Hoppe's #9 ...!!! I soaked the switch for about 30 minutes and it practically unthreaded its-self.

I don't know yet if it was repeated attempts with alcohol soaks that weakened the glue, or if Hoppe's is just that awesome, but I will find out later tonight or tomorrow when I soak my buddy's unmolested switch and attempt to get it apart for him. I will report back when confirmed, both 19b's came from exhalevapors in the same shipment about 2 weeks ago. When I first got the mod, my bottom magnet was a little crooked, it rarely misfired, and I don't think I ever had a hot button. I took the switch out, set it on a towel, placed a nutdriver on the magnet and whacked it with a hammer to seat the magnet. That's when the hot button started and CONSTANT misfires - like 2/3 of the time. Now that I've gotten the switch apart and stretched the spring (about 2 hours ago) I've had 1 miss and 1 hot button. SUBSTANTIALLY better vape!! In a few minutes I'm going to stretch/widen the spring a little more and maybe do the wire wrap mod. Still haven't decided if the magnet will stay or go, for now it stays... but I know I won't be able to leave this thing alone forever

 

[Lhartman89]

Another thing to think about soaking the switch in is PB Blaster. I know it is more for rusty bolts, but that might help get it apart. But I agree that Hoppe's #9 will probably work great.

 

[JPG1911]

stretched the firing spring a little more, and added a drip tip o-ring to the brass post. Much better now, but I'd like to do the washer mod instead of wire b/c I know it's got to be better

dug around in my tool closet and found some brass washers that will work with a little grinding, but I'm off work tomorrow and I think I'm going to try to source some copper washers instead. I may have some laying around in the shop, but if I can't find them I'll check HD and Lowes. Can't find my metric tap & die set but my friend may have some at his shop, AND he's got a lathe/mill so I think I'll take the magnet out of the bottom cap and drill/tap for a brass screw.

I was starting to think all you guys claiming that the K100 switch was a good fit were crazy because mine didn't even touch the threads, then I swapped top and bottom caps and realized that the K100 switch does in fact, thread to the top end of the tube, but not the bottom. The Nzonic head fits well on either end, but when I try to thread the switch onto the top end of the tube it stops a little short of flush. I did find that in flip-flop configuration my RSST fits much closer to the top cap. At this point I think I'll keep it in it's original orientation and just file/sand/grind the 510 post flush.

Haven't heard from my buddy tonight so I'll just take my trusty bottle of Hoppe's #9 with me when I go to his shop and soak his switch while I'm working on the lathe - will report back with results tomorrow night, might even make a few new drip tips now that we've got SS stock to work with! We made several out of aluminum but the taste/feel is horrible, even if they do look badass

 

[DkGanz]

Is there any reason to believe that the brass/copper (plated/whatever it might REALLY be) #19 will be any better out-of-the-box?
I'm a sucker so I've got one ordered.
If nothing else, it'll look nice.
Unless it has the stinkin' laser etched Sigelei logo on it.....
grrrrrr.....
mental note....do not order things until AFTER coffee.....

I got one around the 1st of July. Works very well and NO laser etching!
I did put the o-ring in the switch to shorten the throw and spread out the bottom of the spring so it touches the sides. A little Noalox on the threads and BAM!!! Hits hard and works great! No misfires and very little voltage drop. Less than 1/10 of a volt.
Oh yeah, I also bent the very tip of the top spring down as it was cutting into my battery tops. Seems to have stopped now.

 

[zipflint]

Good tips. Thanks!

I got one around the 1st of July. Works very well and NO laser etching!
I did put the o-ring in the switch to shorten the throw and spread out the bottom of the spring so it touches the sides. A little Noalox on the threads and BAM!!! Hits hard and works great! No misfires and very little voltage drop. Less than 1/10 of a volt.
Oh yeah, I also bent the very tip of the top spring down as it was cutting into my battery tops. Seems to have stopped now.

 

[Grendelthing]

Does anyone have any thoughts on removing the top spring (for the ones that have it) and replacing the screw with one with a wider head? I am interested in trying a kick and not sure that it would sit very cleanly with a spring.

 

[icucme2]

so the well where the threading is on the button has some dried upglue from factory.. i can only screw the brass post in like half a turn.. i was okay with it but after using it, it ends up unscrewing itself.. any one have any idea how to get that glue out? will a lil gasoline work

 

[icucme2]

Does anyone have any thoughts on removing the top spring (for the ones that have it) and replacing the screw with one with a wider head? I am interested in trying a kick and not sure that it would sit very cleanly with a spring.

unsrew spring and leave it.. its got a nice brass contact already without spring

 

[corpus]

so the well where the threading is on the button has some dried upglue from factory.. i can only screw the brass post in like half a turn.. i was okay with it but after using it, it ends up unscrewing itself.. any one have any idea how to get that glue out? will a lil gasoline work

A bit of glue left on mine as well..and it wouldnt stay screwed on.. i think the threads werent the same size...hence the glue! I used some insulating tape around the threads and it keeps it from falling off!

 

[Fullknight]

Does anyone have any thoughts on removing the top spring (for the ones that have it) and replacing the screw with one with a wider head? I am interested in trying a kick and not sure that it would sit very cleanly with a spring.

I took out the spring and silver screw on mine. Works Great with Kick. I feel like the spring could short the Kick. The brass top is good without adding anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[the4thpower3]

So, after seeing a couple people (Gdeal and NamVet68) here do some innovative things building a magnetic switch; I decided to try my hand at it.
I wanted to keep it simple and thought about it for a little while. Luckly those guys already found a source for small magnetic rings.
I decided on these: SuperMagnetMan Ring Magnet
There are 3 listed in this size two are nickel plated one is gold.
Have get the gold ones because they are magnetized through thickness.
The nickel ones are magnetized only through diameter and will not work for this application (thanks to Bwhare for this info).

Any how this is how I decided to do it.
The post is 8mm dia. and the rings are 8mm id. So in order for these to go on and move freely I had to sand and polish the post a little. I did that with a dremel and finished it off by hand. I just took off enough for the rings to slide freely on the post (no gouging/grinding/ metal rubbing). This has to be done - so if you try this, don't skip this step. These magnets are fragile and I broke one just test fitting.

Switch apart (look no spring); 2 nylon washers to shorten throw (most people use an o-ring); my top magnet is still there: it's just sanded down and polished, flush with the brass cup)

With the post magnet in place, the ring magnet will actually hold underneath. It doesn't matter whether you have a magnet on your post or not - the first ring magnet will just sit there.

The hard part - it's not really that hard. Hold the second ring over the center post (opposing polarity with the first ring magnet); and slide the button over top; then screw it all together. When taking it apart the top magnet will try to jump out and go flying.

All together

These are strong magnets - but the pressure is still relatively light and even; it's almost like a touch switch - it fires anywhere I touch it. My throw is maybe .5mm lol. It will not fire standing on it's own weight unlocked.

I'm very happy with it. I don't know that it's really worth the cost and effort, but it's fun and better than my last modded spring.

 

[minimalsaint]

Very nice! Methinks some ring magnets are in my future!