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Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

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NamVet68

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So, after seeing a couple people (Gdeal and NamVet68) here do some innovative things building a magnetic switch; I decided to try my hand at it.
I wanted to keep it simple and thought about it for a little while. Luckly those guys already found a source for small magnetic rings.
I decided on these: SuperMagnetMan Ring Magnet
There are 3 listed in this size two are nickel plated one is gold. I chose gold...cuz it's gold!lol. and cheaper...

Any how this is how I decided to do it.
......
I'm very happy with it. I don't know that it's really worth the cost and effort, but it's fun and better than my last modded spring.

Looks good! My only suggestion is to use a small bit of copper wire around the base of the switch housing and the brass center post to increase conductivity when you fire the mod. It doesn't need to be fancy, just so they are connected, but still allow the center post to move freely.

Gdeal used a piece of bare 16Ga copper wire & wound it around the post & switch base, I did mine just a bit differently by using a piece of solid copper wire & bent it into a circle that matched the inner diameter of the switch housing and bent the ends into a "V" pointing inward. The Brass center post sits in the crux of the "V" & the circle fits under the Delrin cup. I used a dab of Noalox on the post to lubricate it & increase the conductivity a bit more. You can also do the same thing with an old "Hot Spring" that's been cut-down to only one loop, flatten it, and make it loop partially around the center post & open the other end to fit under the Delrin cup....it doesn't need to go all the way around the housing, just enough to maintain solid contact and not move about.

I can't take credit for this - I saw a picture of someone else who did it (without the ring magnets) on some other forum & adapted it. Easy to do, and that arrangement also helps stabilize the button, and makes a world of difference in how hard the 19 hits...it's weakest point is that the switch does not make a 100% positive ground when you hit the fire button - leading to hot buttons & sometimes sparks. Getting that connection solid is the biggest bang for the buck with the 19.....

Have fun :)
 
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the4thpower3

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Since I was in tinker mode.
I know most people if anyone will go through all this, for some reason I wanted to.
Adjustable top and bottom.

I've been using the stock top center post with the little screw and spring removed for solid contact.
But I couldn't use it in 18350 mode because I had shaved down my bottom magnet and it was too short.
So my battery would rattle around; obviously no contact.
I wanted to get rid of that magnet and finally decided just to smash it out.
Hammer almost worked...then came the spring loaded center punch - that worked :)

So I found a couple of thumb screws.
I drilled and tapped the bottom post after the magnet removal and screwed in a fat head thumb screw.

For the top post, I had to drill out the stock screw hole and re-tap it for the thumb screw I had.

Adjustable top and bottom. Hit's hard and works in 18350 mode again :)
SDC110712.jpg
 

the4thpower3

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...it's weakest point is that the switch does not make a 100% positive ground when you hit the fire button - leading to hot buttons & sometimes sparks. Getting that connection solid is the biggest bang for the buck with the 19.....

Have fun :)

I know what you mean.

.... looking closely I do see sparks.
Only if I press the button in dead center and push it to the side to make contact with the housing.

Looks like a need to mod some more.
Thanks for the info.
 

gdeal

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Nice job on the magnetic switch! :toast:

When I do this to the 19E (if I can ever get that #$#%^ button off), I agree it would be better to slim down the brass post, then mess with filing/sanding the magnets to get the smooth action. The grit from the magnet stays magnetic and is a pain to clean off, if your dont break them.

Its not really that expensive of a mod, two mags are only 2 bucks, its the shipping that adds the cost. When I ordered, I added a bunch of other magnets for future projects. A couple more ring magnets for the #19E and a #6 and some smaller 4mm disk for spacers to use in 350 mode mods. All in for me was $15 for two #19 switch mods and a bunch of other stuff for experiments.

The switch action from the magnets are far better than the spring.

Edit: Second Namvets suggestion to do the copper mod.
 
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pastubbs

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So, after seeing a couple people (Gdeal and NamVet68) here do some innovative things building a magnetic switch; I decided to try my hand at it.
Interesting way of building a magnetic switch. I was thinking of doing something more on the lines of: Macaveli Review 18350 Hybrid from Macavelihybrid.com - YouTube as it seems easier. skip to about 5:30 in the video

All I would have to do is remove the spring from the button and the top cap then put a magnet-in-a-washer on the battery in the opposing force.
 

gdeal

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That would be effective as a switch and would be a lot easier. (Not sure about the effect on vdrop or added length)

Check this out for a similar method on the #19 http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/426902-sigelei-19-mech-mod-magnet-switch.html



Interesting way of building a magnetic switch. I was thinking of doing something more on the lines of: Macaveli Review 18350 Hybrid from Macavelihybrid.com - YouTube as it seems easier. skip to about 5:30 in the video

All I would have to do is remove the spring from the button and the top cap then put a magnet-in-a-washer on the battery in the opposing force.
 

BWhare

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So, after seeing a couple people (Gdeal and NamVet68) here do some innovative things building a magnetic switch; I decided to try my hand at it.
I wanted to keep it simple and thought about it for a little while. Luckly those guys already found a source for small magnetic rings.
I decided on these: SuperMagnetMan Ring Magnet
There are 3 listed in this size two are nickel plated one is gold. I chose gold...cuz it's gold!lol. and cheaper...

When I ordered my magnets, I decided to buy extras because of the $6 shipping cost and the fact that I would probably break something anyway. I bought four gold and two nickel. When they arrived, the gold were in a very solid roll - the nickel were a separate roll. The nickel would come apart and the gold was far more difficult (they "really" liked each other).

I then discovered that the nickel and gold didn't attract the same way. Seems I'd ordered the nickel "magnetized across the diameter" instead of "through the thickness". When I went back to the site, it turns out that both nickels are unsuited to our use. So, make sure, if you're buying these, you get the gold because they are the ones that work.

Well, at least I have two very nice little nickel magnets for building some kind of compass ;-)
 

zipflint

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Uhhh....because I just woke up and haven't had my meds OR my coffee yet and I'm feeling totally rubbish right now....and I want to be sure of things before I fook something up.....

Most of these switch modifications (which all seem quite difficult for someone like me at the moment) shouldn't be totally necessary with the solid brass #19.....right? I think someone already answered me about this but with all the subsequent posts I just want to be sure.

Don't hit me!!!
;)
 

gdeal

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I have had no problems with my un-modded brass #19. You should be good.

Uhhh....because I just woke up and haven't had my meds OR my coffee yet and I'm feeling totally rubbish right now....and I want to be sure of things before I fook something up.....

Most of these switch modifications (which all seem quite difficult for someone like me at the moment) shouldn't be totally necessary with the solid brass #19.....right? I think someone already answered me about this but with all the subsequent posts I just want to be sure.

Don't hit me!!!
;)
 

zipflint

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Thank you, Sir! You have set my addled mind at ease. :)
Now, if only my brass #19 from vaportek hadn't been routed OUT of SC (from Aiken, which is
like less than an hour from where I live) THROUGH GEORGIA, I woulda had it today....
::sigh::
first world problems.....


I have had no problems with my un-modded brass #19. You should be good.
 

the4thpower3

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I then discovered that the nickel and gold didn't attract the same way. Seems I'd ordered the nickel "magnetized across the diameter" instead of "through the thickness". When I went back to the site, it turns out that both nickels are unsuited to our use. So, make sure, if you're buying these, you get the gold because they are the ones that work.

Nice catch. I didn't even notice that. I ordered the gold ones...cuz...uh... they are gold :) lol
I modified my post on this to reflect your info. Thanks :)

I only ordered 4 and I broke one already. I guess I'll have to order more for the 19e and some for back up.
 
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the4thpower3

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pretty disappointed with my brand new 19 so she got benched until I can finish modding it, barely got started with removing the magnet so far and kind of already gave up :( I only bought it to build this with it cause I loved how clean it looked

It does look clean - nice drop :) is that with the SG1 ?
I'd like to lower mine but I don't feel like spending $25 + (twice) on a screw kit.
You don't really have to take the magnet out. It works fine with it.
 

the4thpower3

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So I finally got my 19E from Vaportek. I guess I must have been placed on the second batch order.
Good thing (I guess), cuz mine came with the Nzonic head. Thanks VaporTek :)

Of course I've already started modding it. But I'm leaving the switch alone to compare.
I swear this spring is much softer then my 19b was. No crunchy noise, nice smooth action...hmmm.

So I took some pics with his brother of course. I noticed some other minor differences.
The vent holes are bigger. The groove/channel cut for the vent holes is bigger. The head is slightly taller.
The threads are much better. The outer body sleeve is quite shorter (about 1mm).
I haven't measured everything - but I can def tell when they are side by side.

Here's some pics - cuz everyone loves pics :)
well, maybe not mine cuz my camera and I are sux

SDC11083.jpg


SDC11082.jpg


Brass Nzonic head - woohoo
SDC11084.jpg


SDC11086-1.jpg


two-tone tony
...well, not completely until I take apart the new 19e switch..but close
SDC11088-1.jpg


SDC11087.jpg
 

NamVet68

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So I finally got my 19E from Vaportek. I guess I must have been placed on the second batch order.
Good thing (I guess), cuz mine came with the Nzonic head. Thanks VaporTek :)
...
Here's some pics - cuz everyone loves pics :)
well, maybe not mine cuz my camera and I are sux
....


They look GREAT!!! I love the two-tones... (God...please don't make me buy another one...three are enough :cry: )
 
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the4thpower3

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They look GREAT!!! I love the two-tones... (God...please don't make me buy another one...three are enough :cry: )

Wow! 2 tone does look great! hmm might have to pick up a brass nzonic head for mine

#(@! Now I want a regular one to do the two-tone boogie.

LMAO! ....., now I want another silver and another brass to have one of everything :)

On second thought - F - having to mod 2 more of these...
I'm not even done with these 2 yet.
On top of that I have a Sentinel V3 and a Private V2 coming.

...my wife is gonna slit my throat.
 

Thraizer

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It does look clean - nice drop :) is that with the SG1 ?
I'd like to lower mine but I don't feel like spending $25 + (twice) on a screw kit.
You don't really have to take the magnet out. It works fine with it.

There's a diy guide floating around here somewhere about making your own SG1 for free using a spare head.
 
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