I stand corrected. I just took a razor blade to the base of the cap & it is NOT plated. Thank you NamVet68. That does make me feel better. But i am using an SG-1, so it will sit with 2 shiny silver nzonic heads in a bag.
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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Just got my 19 copper today. I noticed that with a AW 18350 battery it works pretty consistently. With my Efest 18650 in it it will misfire a lot. The plastic sheathing on the Efest does stick out more then the AW does on the bottom of the battery.
Uhhh....because I just woke up and haven't had my meds OR my coffee yet and I'm feeling totally rubbish right now....and I want to be sure of things before I fook something up.....
Most of these switch modifications (which all seem quite difficult for someone like me at the moment) shouldn't be totally necessary with the solid brass #19.....right? I think someone already answered me about this but with all the subsequent posts I just want to be sure.
Don't hit me!!!
It should work well right out of the box. Yeah, the Noalox on the threads should increase conductivity some, but the contact between parts is pretty good already. It does make the threads turn more smoothly.
Spreading the button spring out towards the walls in theory should create better contact in the switch.
Bending down the tip of the top spring is probably a good idea if its carving holes in your batteries like mine did.
And the o-ring on the button post does nothing to increase performance, it just shortens the button "throw" so that it "feels" better.
The actual increase in performance for me with what I did was only very slightly noticeable. So if you dont want to bother, i say dont. But I do suggest putting the o-ring in the button. The nice short throw it creates feels good for the two minutes it takes to put it in.
The brass Nzonic head I have is not plated. I already started sanding on mine. No plating.
I'm still not certain that modding the 19b was necessary.
A little squeaky button...didn't effect operation. Just annoying.
I never noticed a hot button or arcing when it was stock - but it wasn't stock for long - so maybe I stated that without a long term test on the 19b and I'm just judging based on my (virtually) stock 19e.
If the button was arcing in stock form, then I agree, something needs to be done.
Had I known this was an issue, I probably wouldn't have bought it.
That almost sounds like recall territory.
Is it just not a well known issue?
Did the first 19 (a?) do this as well?
The 19E definitely is an improvement, from the threads to the button. Maybe whatever they did stopped the arcing, but it's not present on the 19E I have.
Since I haven't taken the switch apart yet, so I can't compare. Maybe they changed the cut for the button to make better, full contact with the housing when it's depressed???
My 19b switch arcs in either body.
My 19e switch does not.
I will be taking mine apart as soon as I get some more magnets.
Although, I'm kinda liking this switch.
I'm still not certain that modding the 19b was necessary.
A little squeaky button...didn't effect operation. Just annoying.
I never noticed a hot button or arcing when it was stock - but it wasn't stock for long - so maybe I stated that without a long term test on the 19b and I'm just judging based on my (virtually) stock 19e.
If the button was arcing in stock form, then I agree, something needs to be done.
Had I known this was an issue, I probably wouldn't have bought it.
That almost sounds like recall territory.
Is it just not a well known issue?
Did the first 19 (a?) do this as well?
The 19E definitely is an improvement, from the threads to the button. Maybe whatever they did stopped the arcing, but it's not present on the 19E I have.
Since I haven't taken the switch apart yet, so I can't compare. Maybe they changed the cut for the button to make better, full contact with the housing when it's depressed???
My 19b switch arcs in either body.
My 19e switch does not.
I will be taking mine apart as soon as I get some more magnets.
Although, I'm kinda liking this switch.
I have the 19a, it was like snap, crackle and pop. Modding it wasn't a choice, it was a matter of necessity. On the other hand, my 19E works like yours...really well on its own. But I am still gonna get that sucker apart. I got the 19E switch soaking in some industrial strength Acetone as warm-up for tomorrow's Hoppe's No. 9 beat down. Defeat is not an alternative. This thing is getting magnets.
I'll have to scour this thread some more to find what exactly you're referencing, but fixing an o-ring on the button sure sounds easy enough, even for a feeble doofus like me.
And I've been meaning to get some Noalox for freakin' AGES.....
And I've been meaning to get some Noalox for freakin' AGES.....
With the spring in mine is putting a solid circle in my flat top batteries. Without the spring it won't connect with an 18350.
Here's a pic of the o-ring in place. It's just the o-ring from an old drip tip I had laying around.I'll have to scour this thread some more to find what exactly you're referencing, but fixing an o-ring on the button sure sounds easy enough, even for a feeble doofus like me.
And I've been meaning to get some Noalox for freakin' AGES.....
And next to it is the button spring that I spread out to touch the side walls. It goes in wide part towards the body, skinny part towards the button.
Also, get some Noalox! It's great stuff! It's at any Home Depot in the electrical section next to the wire pulling lube. For the $5 it's costs you, you'll get a lifetime supply.
Hrrmmmm....Is it possible to get that o-ring on the button without removing it? "It" meaning said button.
If I had mine, I'm sure I could look at it and answer my own questions. But, I don't.
SHOULD be here tomorrow.
If I had mine, I'm sure I could look at it and answer my own questions. But, I don't.
SHOULD be here tomorrow.
Man, this 19e is a great mod. I had a little bit to drink when I ordered it. I wasn't real sure how I would be at actual fixing up a mod. Now I feel like I should be good to go already. The button feel sturdy and even using it with an 18350 to test it out tonight, it seems to work very well. I'm super stoked that I waited on the 19b mod. Isn't it funny how us vapers .... ourselves over a Chinese company a Filipino flag top on a mod?
Just got my 19 in yesterday, definitely need to mess with this. I need to go through this thread to switch up the magnet for a brass screw or something. This does not hit hard at all
Good afternoon everyone! Long time reader, recent contributor.
I got a 19b for the sole purpose of having a tinker toy. Once I got the switch disassembled I began to work on the magnet removal process. Once I got the magnet out and drilled out the post and tapped it for a copper thumbscrew that would typically be used on tattoo guns. while tapping the brass post it began to actually crack and crumble apart. Typically brasses and coppers are pretty easy to manipulate since they are relatively soft metal. That being said, I was shocked that the post was crumbling and to my standards, rendered unusable.
I have been searching high and low for substitute or replacement switch and have come up empty handed... So i ask, does anyone know where I could get replacement switch or post? I've thought about getting a threaded copper rod and fabricating my own post but since my current post is all messed up I can't get proper measurements.
I got a 19b for the sole purpose of having a tinker toy. Once I got the switch disassembled I began to work on the magnet removal process. Once I got the magnet out and drilled out the post and tapped it for a copper thumbscrew that would typically be used on tattoo guns. while tapping the brass post it began to actually crack and crumble apart. Typically brasses and coppers are pretty easy to manipulate since they are relatively soft metal. That being said, I was shocked that the post was crumbling and to my standards, rendered unusable.
I have been searching high and low for substitute or replacement switch and have come up empty handed... So i ask, does anyone know where I could get replacement switch or post? I've thought about getting a threaded copper rod and fabricating my own post but since my current post is all messed up I can't get proper measurements.
The vendor that supplied mine had asked Sig to provide the mod with that design
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The vendor that supplied mine had asked Sig to provide the mod with that design
Yes, and a little searching shows that the same vendor is going to have some of those brass pins available for sale at some point. I'm hoping to grab a couple.
Yes, and a little searching shows that the same vendor is going to have some of those brass pins available for sale at some point. I'm hoping to grab a couple.
I would be interested in a few myself for experimentation purposes. Would you mind sharing this wonderful vendor you speak of? Or perhaps a link?
I found a foreign site that sells the post/firing pin: http://www.celticvapes.co.uk/sigelei_spares/cat2086843_1996501.aspx
now to see if there is a US retailer doing the same...
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The magnet isn't the problem - it's the bottom spring not making a solid ground when you fire the mod. The quick fix is to either stretch the spring slightly, or open up the bottom coils so they fit firmly against the body of the mod.
There are quite a few other fixes to improve it further if you look back in this thread - I would recommend the copper wire mod at least.....
Have fun..
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I was speaking of Celtic Vapes. They are supposed to have a batch of the firing pins sometime in the not-too-distant future. The firing pin in your link above is the pin with the magnet. I'm looking for the brass pin that doesn't need a magnet. You can see it in Todd's review.
That magnet just *has* to have more voltage drop than a brass pin alone.
Looks like this 19E's switch is going to be just as difficult as my 19B.
I've tried my jar openers (rubber thingys) and even wacked it a few (ok more like 20) times with a nylon hammer to no avail.
I really want to take it apart cleanly (without cutting the magnet - like I did the 19B).
Last time I tried 91% IPA, GooGone, and Acetone soaks. None of which removed/loosened the glue.
So since someone else here suggested it (don't know why I didn't think about trying it before as I have a lot of it), I'm going to try the Hoppe's soak. Hopefully I can come back and tell everyone it works. Fingers crossed.
I've tried my jar openers (rubber thingys) and even wacked it a few (ok more like 20) times with a nylon hammer to no avail.
I really want to take it apart cleanly (without cutting the magnet - like I did the 19B).
Last time I tried 91% IPA, GooGone, and Acetone soaks. None of which removed/loosened the glue.
So since someone else here suggested it (don't know why I didn't think about trying it before as I have a lot of it), I'm going to try the Hoppe's soak. Hopefully I can come back and tell everyone it works. Fingers crossed.
I did see the one you are referring to. I wouldn't mind getting my hands one of those too. I went ahead and snagged 2 of the magnet topped versions and will get a few of the all brass pins to boot when they become available. I am determined to get this experiment underway. Even if I have to mold a firing pin and pour my own copper I will. I've even toyed with the idea of making extension tubes to fit my various batteries in a flush configuration. Meh, just like to tinker I guess. I just have this sneaking suspension that I can make this mech into something great. Dare I say Faceless worthy? eeek!
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