Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

[NamVet68]

No, definitely not there! That location is the exact opposite of what needs to be accomplished. The copper washer needs to go between the button, that's the part you push on, and the lock ring, that's the part that screws into the bottom of the mod last before the button.

Do not add extra components on top of the firing pin/magnet, that only increases the gap between the button and the lock ring ledge. Doing this makes the vertical edge of the button the only conductive path between the lock ring and button, which is why so many mention having to tilt the button to fire.

Adding that copper wash there does not increase conductivity, the current still has to go through the firing pin/magnet.

The Copper Washer in the picture is used to shorten the throw - the wire mod is used to eliminate the inherent problem with the conductivity of the switch (which causes the "hot button" & "Sparking" problems). Your method is another way to accomplish what the wire mod does. My copper washer was to eliminate the long throw issue. I had already done the wire modification (works perfectly BTW)...I should have been more clear ....

I have two 19s (Stainless & Brass) - both set up with the wire mod & copper washer - both fire 100%, no hot buttons, no sparks, have a nice short crisp throw, and I can set them down without them firing, even with an Ithaka (very heavy atty) on top.

Works for me....

 

[the4thpower3]

NVM. Didn't realize Namvet already said it.

 

[tstar]

Hey guys I got my 19B from vaportek... the SS does not have a magnet it button

I have another problem though I am trying to put Kanger Protank 2 onto the NZONIC top cap and when screwed down all the way there is no air to draw so I can pull anything. The kanger tank has to be like1 1/4-1/2 way unthreaded in order to pull on it

Please offer some help

 

[Porksmuggler]

The Copper Washer in the picture is used to shorten the throw - the wire mod is used to eliminate the inherent problem with the conductivity of the switch (which causes the "hot button" & "Sparking" problems). Your method is another way to accomplish what the wire mod does. My copper washer was to eliminate the long throw issue. I had already done the wire modification (works perfectly BTW)...I should have been more clear ....

I have two 19s (Stainless & Brass) - both set up with the wire mod & copper washer - both fire 100%, no hot buttons, no sparks, have a nice short crisp throw, and I can set them down without them firing, even with an Ithaka (very heavy atty) on top.

Works for me....

Adding the copper washer on top of the firing pin is why you needed to use the wire mod. It's better to add an o-ring under the firing pin to shorten the throw. This shortens the throw without increasing the firing pin length with the extra washer thickness on top. The extra washer thickness prevents the button from making proper contact with the locking ring ledge.

Remove the button assembly from the mod body and press the button completely in. Notice how far above the delrin the firing pin sticks out. It's 1mm or more beyond the delrin depending on which version you have. With the copper washer, it's likely closer to 2mm. With a battery pressed firmly against the delrin, this is how large the gap is between the button and the locking ring ledge, not good, and the source of the misfires.

I've modded two 19s, a magnet one with a thin copper washer between the button and locking ring, and a brass pin one by simply sanding down the firing pin post to where it is just beyond the delrin a fraction of 1mm, while the button is pressed completely against the locking ring ledge. No misfires, and no other modifications needed. I recommend the washer for those not wanting to sand the magnet/firing pin.


tstar, that's a know issue with the Protank 2, the air channels are not cut correctly. It's not an issue with the 19 top cap.

 

[tstar]

tstar, that's a know issue with the Protank 2, the air channels are not cut correctly. It's not an issue with the 19 top cap.

Dang I did not read that anywhere! Will the protank v1 fit threading all the way down?

 

[Porksmuggler]

Dang I did not read that anywhere! Will the protank v1 fit threading all the way down?

Yes, the Protank v1 will. Some Protank 2s will also. Phil explains the defect in this video.

A PBusardo Review - ProTank II, Mini ProTank, Davide, & a Contest - YouTube

 

[tstar]

Yes, the Protank v1 will. Some Protank 2s will also. Phil explains the defect in this video.

A PBusardo Review - ProTank II, Mini ProTank, Davide, & a Contest - YouTube

I just bought the protank 2 after buying a protank mini and evod... now I have to buy a protank v1

 

[tstar]

Can I just buy the base anywhere?

 

[jaynole]

Hey guys, I have been reading this thread for a few days now and I've made it through most of the pages. Not going to lie skipped a few pages in the middle of the book haha. I recently bought a Sigelei 19B from Vaportek in SS w/ the NZONIC cap

Sigelei #19b telescoping mod with nzonic clone head and bottom button activation. Sigelei #19b is constructed of solid brushed stainless steel.

Can anyone confirm if this button/switch will come w/ no magnet or glue? Just asking as a general quesiton beacuase I also ordered the Fat Daddy Vapes replacement button Maintenance - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vaping equipment, eliquids, and supplies!!!

I plan on running my 19B in 18350 mode and after reading the thread I am a little confused with what you guys are doing to make it "flush" as some of you have explained. I guess you guys are replacing the screw on the bottom side of the cap and adjusting the spring? Can anyone go into detail as far as what exactly I will need to to make the it lok clean and flush in 18350 mode? Is there anything else I am going to need to do to make this 19B never misfire and work flawlessly?

I can confirm, I just received mine from Vaportek, Tuesday. No glue and no magnet, brass contacts. I was kinda surprised, since I ordered a no magnet, no glue switch separately expecting it to be the original since there was no mention of it not having the no magnet, no glue in the description. I prefer the 8w switch though.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

 

[tstar]

I can confirm, I just received mine from Vaportek, Tuesday. No glue and no magnet, brass contacts. I was kinda surprised, since I ordered a no magnet, no glue switch separately expecting it to be the original since there was no mention of it not having the no magnet, no glue in the description. I prefer the 8w switch though.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4

That 8W switch looks nice.

I wish my Protank 2 would sit that flush with my #19B and sitll pull

 

[NamVet68]

Can I just buy the base anywhere?

You can buy the base from Free-Cig for under $2 :

Kanger ProTank Replacement Base

 

[tstar]

You can buy the base from Free-Cig for under $2 :

Kanger ProTank Replacement Base

Do you think this would solve my problem I am having w/ not being able to thread it down all the way and getting a draw?

 

[crss]

Do you think this would solve my problem I am having w/ not being able to thread it down all the way and getting a draw?

I got 2 protanks when they 1st came out. 1 base came with NO AIR HOLES DRILLED in the base... I had to change base, to one with air holes drilled and have no issues with mine. I bought 5 spare bases from another vendor, but NamVet68's shared link looks great. I like the fast responses & help always shown here on ECF.

 

[NamVet68]

Do you think this would solve my problem I am having w/ not being able to thread it down all the way and getting a draw?

Here's a Kanger Protank II on my #19e with Nzonic head (ground flush). Draws just like it does on a E-go.

 

[zipflint]

Hey NamVet, did you build your own coil for that ProTank2? I've been using one on my VV/VW devices and I always have to give it hard pulls (or primer pulls) until it gets about 1/4 empty or I get dry hits. Even with all of the flavor wicks removed.

 

[NamVet68]

Hey NamVet, did you build your own coil for that ProTank2? I've been using one on my VV/VW devices and I always have to give it hard pulls (or primer pulls) until it gets about 1/4 empty or I get dry hits. Even with all of the flavor wicks removed.

Yes I did, though the stock head (with one flavor wick removed) worked quite well. It's like rolling dice with the stock heads - sometimes you get a good one, sometimes they taste funky & don't wick well.... even from the same package.

I'm currently running a head that I made with a 1.5mm Ekowool wick and a 1.8Ω "ready-wire" (Resistance/Non-resistance wire). Outstanding vape - Ekowool wicks like crazy, and has a very clean flavor (its woven ceramic). They will also not burn like normal Silica.....you can dry-burn them forever & they will never scorch.

The NR/RES wire helps get rid of the "rubbery" flavors too. The burnt-rubber flavors you get on some of these heads come from running the resistance wire through the rubber grommets - they overheat & burn the rubber. The non-resistance wire through the rubber grommets makes a huge difference, but you have to wind the coils VERY tightly together to fit them into the cup.

Best setup I've found for the Kanger heads....& not that difficult to do if you've built Vivi or other heads... there are lots of videos on YouTube to check out that are very helpful.

 

[zipflint]

Yeah I've rebuilt a head like that before. It was a VapeOnly MEGA BCC head though. Pretty much the exact same thing.

I've got ekowool, hollow and....not....hollow. I dig it a LOT. It's what I've been using when building coils for
my drippers. I like that when you give it a quick torch, it stiffens up and doesn't fray like silica.

But I've never dealt with non-resistance wire. The ready-made stuff, with the NR->R->NR setup.....how do you deal with
the length that's in the center? I mean, if you have a LOT of resistance wire in the center, don't you have to use all that up
in the actual coil? And then you're left with like....what....6 wraps? Would it have to be wound like a micro-coil?

 

[NamVet68]

...
But I've never dealt with non-resistance wire. The ready-made stuff, with the NR->R->NR setup.....how do you deal with
the length that's in the center? I mean, if you have a LOT of resistance wire in the center, don't you have to use all that up
in the actual coil? And then you're left with like....what....6 wraps? Would it have to be wound like a micro-coil?

Nope...Not bad at all. Here's a 1.8 Ω RES/NR Kanger coil on 1.5mm Ekowool:



Plenty of room....It's only 5 wraps of the resistance wire on the wick (for the 1.8 Ω). I wrap them with a small pin under the Ekowool (after torching) and just wrap them up starting with the RES wire on the wick & wrap until I run out of the RES section of the wire (easy to tell - its black whereas the non-res is silver), remove the pin, and slip the trailing Non-Res wires down the channel in the base, & insert them as normal. I've coiled a 2.8 Ω ready-wire just to try it out - more wraps (about 8), but still had plenty of room. The ready-wires are also very easy to wrap - the RES section is very pliable and not stiff at all.

Fast & Easy-Peasy.

After a few minutes of vaping, they settle in and just explode with flavor. The Ekowool expands to fill up the channels so you don't need "flavor wicks", and I've never had any gurgling issues either. It stands up to dry-burning so well that I've never really had to re-build one unless I really wanted to - I just rinse them off in distilled water, dry-burn to clean the gunk off the coils, blow the crud off with a can of pressurized air, rinse again, and they are like new. No comparison at all to the stock Kanger coils.

I got the ready-wires from Stormy's.... they are around $9 for 50 of them. I use them in my Oddys & Ithakas all the time. I used to make my own NR/Res wires, but these are so cheap and handy that I'm just using them instead. Besides being lazy, these work great

Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length

Have fun

 

[zipflint]

Well dang. That makes it much more appealing now that you've explained your own process. THAT IS something I can do!
Gonna go ahead and order that bundle o' wire too. Thanks for the help man!

 

[tstar]

Here's a Kanger Protank II on my #19e with Nzonic head (ground flush). Draws just like it does on a E-go.

View attachment 246731

That is with the head from Free Cig or is that a Kanger Protank II out of the box?