Sigelei 30W Owners Thread

[genesishep]

I just got my replacement for my first gen and the bottom cap is now 3 pieces and with a flat top, I can now make connection and still have the knurled part open for venting

Flat tops have worked for me all along but if there is an update base do you know if it can be obtained separately? Just planning ahead

~ Genesis

"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause, and reflect." Mark Twain

- Sent from Tapatalk from my Moto X.

 

[daverave999]

I've got one of the ones that occasionally has problem with flat-tops. I realised what was going on when the atomiser was not sitting straight sometimes.

It appears that the increased pressure from how the bottom cap tightens will push the battery against the mod's positive pin and loosen the top tube. This is what could be causing WhatDoesThisButtonDo's problem i.e. contact between positive pin and case due to misalignment.
The solution is to only tighten the bottom cap until it makes contact, then lock it into place with the reverse thread ring.
If it does get too loose remove the atomiser and take the head off the battery tube, then press the whole head against a sturdy surface and it will compress to how it should be.
I'm not convinced a longer negative pin on the cap is actually the best fix as it still pushes the positive pin up. Ensuring the positive pin cannot be pushed up would be better. [EDIT] That said, I would purchase a bottom cap with the longer pin if they are available.

Since discovering how to sort it, it's a minor niggle and I'm really pleased with the mod.

 

[yOGi805]

Just got my smoke colored kayfun middle section to make my set up look even nicer. Like the new look a lot.

 

[Vapre]

I just posted this in another thread, so I'll just paste it here. It's the reason why I like many others found decreasing performance with flat top batts, and then later on even button tops too.

" Guys just so you know, I've discovered the little problem with mine. <br />
<br />
The top cap moves! <br />
<br />
What the tank abuts against, that cap, contains the connector. That is just pressed fit on top of the metal body housing. It presses down on the vertical sx300 board, which again presses down on the positive connector of the battery Bay. None of these are fixed. <br />
<br />
So what happens is, as you tighten the bottom, at first there's good contact, but as the pressure slowly exerts itself from the positive pin, THROUGH the sx300 board (yeah I know, terrible design) pushing up against the press fit cap the whole thing slowly pushes up. <br />
<br />
That's why at first flat top batteries work, but soon loses good contact. Then you go button top, but over time that happens too. <br />
<br />
If you don't believe me screw a tank on. Then gently try to pull the tank away from the body rocking back and forth a little. You'll find the whole thing comes off. <br />
<br />
To remedy, you might want to glue the top cap into place, pressing down from the top all the way it'll go. After that, you can exert more pressure while screwing the bottom on to get a good connection. Not too much though, yiu don't want to crack the sx300.<br />
<br />
One last thing - some vtc5's you buy come prewrapped with button tops. Your mileage may vary, but I find that the wrapping doesn't provide the best connection. How I know this is that when I tighten, I notice maybe 0.6v drop when firing. But when I tighten more, it drops by only 0.2v. This tells me the button top and/or the bottom add-on, is not making good connection. My advice would be to remove that if you can. <br />
<br />
With the top pushed all the way in, flat tops are perfectly fine with room to spare too.<br/>"

 

[yOGi805]

Thanks for the input.


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[MotorN]

Sigelei will send you the new bottom cap free but want $40 for shipping
$4.00 within China if you know someone who can forward it to you.

Looks like I may have juice inside the main body, or maybe condensation. I guess there is nothing I can do about it being that it is press-fitted?

 

[caged]

For those of you who have this unit, would you buy it again or choose something else such as an Evic Supreme or Smok BEC? I have the Sigelei 20W, but after too many drops on hard surfaces, the display is a little messed up and the floating pin leaks juice on to the battery so I think I will pick up a new mod and use the 20W as backup since it still seems to fire fine. I'm most interested in the 30W, the Smok BEC, and the Evic Supreme.

 

[stanthemanchan]

For around the same price you can get the IPV2 which is overall a better buy, unless you really don't like box mods.

 

[yOGi805]

I love my 30w so far. At this point I'd buy it again.


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[genesishep]

For those of you who have this unit, would you buy it again or choose something else such as an Evic Supreme or Smok BEC? I have the Sigelei 20W, but after too many drops on hard surfaces, the display is a little messed up and the floating pin leaks juice on to the battery so I think I will pick up a new mod and use the 20W as backup since it still seems to fire fine. I'm most interested in the 30W, the Smok BEC, and the Evic Supreme.

I'm more than happy with my Sig30 and this is from someone who tends to suffer from buyer's remorse. I got mine for $74 delivered and it was a great deal at the time.

I looked at the Evic but honestly, a lot of the features seemed gimmicky to me as opposed to useful so I couldn't justify the price. If someone plans to use all the features (wallpaper, software tracking etc.) then I say go for it. But if you are just looking to vape all the tech may be overkill.

The Smok BEC looks cool but wasn't even an option when I was looking. From what I have read the same scenario applies to it as the Evic. If you need/want the additional tech then cool, if not, overkill.

There will likely always be new toys that come out just after you make a purchase. Computer tech has me accepting that by the time I unpack my new top of the line gaming system there will be 10 better/faster ones for sale. That's the cruel/cool thing about technology.

My next big upgrade will be for down regulation but I won't be making that move until Sx350 based mods are being sold for around the same price I paid for my Sx300 based Sig30. That may take awhile but I'm set for now.

~ Genesis

"Whenever you find you are on the side of the majority, it is time to pause, and reflect." Mark Twain

- Sent from Tapatalk from my Moto X.

 

[roosterado]

Agreed. Although I'm looking at getting an SX350 with dual 18650s commissioned. Since this device doesn't really support flat top 18650s (it's meant for button tops and those are next to impossible to find), I have to use a dime down the negative end in order to get it to stay on. I don't know for sure, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like this causes a big voltage drop (anywhere from .4 to .7v) which forces the battery to use more amps and therefore more battery

I have been using mine for 5 days with 18650 flat tops without any problem

 

[roosterado]

It says it will go down to .5 in the specs but actually only goes to .6 before you get the low resistance warning.

I was wondering about that because on my Seigeli 20watt specs say will fire down to .7OHM but mine will only fire down to .8OHM. Got my 30watt a few day ago for $70 online. I have a 26650 from VariTube for my 20 watt and it works on my 30watt but there is a tiny gap where the tube tube screws onto the control head

 

[yOGi805]

I was wondering about that because on my Seigeli 20watt specs say will fire down to .7OHM but mine will only fire down to .8OHM. Got my 30watt a few day ago for $70 online. I have a 26650 from VariTube for my 20 watt and it works on my 30watt but there is a tiny gap where the tube tube screws onto the control head

Pics?



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[roosterado]

26650 tube from VAriTube for Seigeli 20watt authentic Russian

 

[roosterado]

266650 tube bottom cap with spring vent holes

 

[Vapre]

Sigelei will send you the new bottom cap free but want $40 for shipping
$4.00 within China if you know someone who can forward it to you.

Looks like I may have juice inside the main body, or maybe condensation. I guess there is nothing I can do about it being that it is press-fitted?

MotorN, the top can be taken apart with gentle rocking. Actually I recommend that everyone takes it apart, if only to fix one thing. Inside, the chip's display cable presses directly against 2 wires on top pressing against the top cap. I put some thick spongy tape to give some relief.

 

[snarfies]

MotorN, the top can be taken apart with gentle rocking. Actually I recommend that everyone takes it apart, if only to fix one thing. Inside, the chip's display cable presses directly against 2 wires on top pressing against the top cap. I put some thick spongy tape to give some relief.

"Gentle rocking" applied how and where? I have some weird piece of white plastic that seems to have drifted in front of my screen, and I'd like to open it up and move it aside, put it back wherever it belongs... but I can't figure out how to get access to the screen area. There's nothing in that part that seems rockable, its all sealed pretty tight.

 

[sanjosse]

snarfies, I've had the same issue on one of mine, so instead of taking the top off I just used and x-acto blade and popped up one side of the clear screen. Removed the debris, then super-glued (with great caution) the screen back on.

 

[daverave999]

OK, in the absence of Vapre coming back and the fact I've just managed to disassemble and reassemble mine without damage, I'll try and describe how it is constructed for those who want to dismantle theirs. Forgive me if my terminology is vague or incorrect at points. I would have taken pictures but it didn't occur to me until after. I have tried again but don't want to loosen things up as it seems better held together now! I will do when/if it gets loose again unless someone beats me to it.

The entire outer tube is PUSH-FIT together.
The beauty ring and 510/Ego thread and that whole cap will come off with gentle rocking. Careful here, as there are wires soldered on that connect to the board.
The shiny ring at the top of the 'screenguard' compresses it against a metal inner tube that has a window (hole) in it for the display on the circuit board to be seen through. The shiny ring at the bottom does the same, and is a separate item.
The circuit board inside is held in through friction. It has a couple of tabs that fit into two slots at the top of the metal inner tube. There is what appears to be a PTFE insulator with a groove in it at the bottom of this chamber to locate it which you can see surrounding the positive pin from the inside of the battery compartment. The positive pin is part of the board.
The button has a PTFE backing knob to press against that on the board, and a tab pointing up (if I reassembled it correctly!) that orients it and prevents it rotating.
I pushed the positive pin from inside the battery compartment and the board slid out.

To reassemble, reverse this, bearing in mind the screen is delicate and can easily get squashed against the tube. To orient the board in the bottom groove I used a 14g blunt needle to wiggle it a bit to locate it. The cap can then be replaced, taking care not to trap the connecting wires against the top of the board. A firm press and it compresses it into place.

I'll try and get pictures ASAP as these will illustrate it much better!

 

[fugitiv3]

Hello everyone I got a question, I got today the sigelei 302 but I cannot find to adjust the Voltage.

I only have the option for Watt. Is this is the case only watt can be adjusted?

I thought you could adjust the voltage also.

Please advise.
this is my first mod.

Thanks