Sigelei fire button and 510 modify

Status
Not open for further replies.

Hans Wermhat

Vaping Master
Jun 9, 2015
3,426
3,412
Texas
I've changed out parts on my mech, but I just got my first regulated mod (iPV4) last week. It can't be hard to do, just working in a smaller space. I don't know what the mod looks like under the hood so to speak, but if you are at all handy with tools and a soldering iron it should be pretty easy. If you aren't a "Mr. Fixit" kinda guy to start with I wouldn't try it. The only advice I can offer is to check the clearances on all the parts before you buy them. Make sure they are going to fit in the spaces you will install them. Double check all your connections and make sure you have good continuity through all the circuits before you energize it. A short or a wire in the wrong spot could fry the boards. Check the ampacity of the parts to make sure it can handle the load. And then double check everything again before you put batteries in it. Good luck. Post pics if it works out for ya. :thumb:
 

MattyTny

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 8, 2013
853
665
New York
I own the Sig150 and as far as the internals go i'ts not badly built.

The fire button is very simple in that it's just a button that protrudes into the housing that presses up against the button on the board when you fire it. If you wanted to change this you would need to remove the board in order to carefully take out the stock button. Some models have the button ring just tightened on, I think others are tightened and help with adhesive, it can be a pain. I also think the ring is reverse threaded. Mine is very tight so I think it has the adhesive on the button ring.

The 510 connection is a little different in that it's "spring loaded" in the sense that a spring on the battery sled is pushing the 510 pin upwards. There is soldering on the pin and the negative of the 510.

I am by no means capable of installing a new 510 or a button, but I can tell you that it doesn't seem too difficult since the sled comes right out and the board seems to be held down with adhesive. However, I would not recommend tinkering with the internals unless you are fully capable of soldering wires back to the 510, removing the board carefully, and handy with tools to bore existing holes depending on what 510 and button you choose.

The Sig150 stock works as intended, the spring loaded 510 is a little odd, but if you wanted something more I would look into different box mods instead of modifying the 150. Unless you bought it at a steal and look at it as a project.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hans Wermhat
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread