Did anyone else know that the K100/101 button fits the #19? I just found this out and thought I would share.
That is awesome! I actually really like my k100!
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Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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That is awesome! I actually really like my k100!
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Did anyone else know that the K100/101 button fits the #19? I just found this out and thought I would share.
this sparked a light bulb over my head... thank you very much !!
everybody is having problems with their #19 misfiring. And ive seen a bunch of youtube videos on how to tinker with the button and fix it and all that so i basically just did what you did and grabbed my sigelei #30.. and said, "hmm i wonder if it fits on the #19..".. so i tried it out.. and viola!! no more misfire problems.. so thank you.. (doesnt look that bad either.)
unfortunately it doesnt work with a 18350. the button doesnt reach the battery to make the connection.. im sure i could tweek it though.. but then that defeats my purpose.
it wont work with flat top batteries either.
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I decided to swap the bottom cap from my #61 to my #13 and used my hybird adapter I made. It's shorter than all my other sigelei's in 18650 mode. It's also a lot lighter than it was with the regular chrome plated caps.
I also got a #20 apart and tried to figure out a solution to the (really dumb) switch design.
I threaded a nylon spacer to 6-32 and pressed it in from the battery to the atty connector, then screwed in two brass screws to make adjustable poles. I removed a piece of the spacer where the gap of the two screws intersects. It worked for a bit, but the adjustment has to be spot on or the firing pin doesn't contact both pins at the same time. Overall, not worth the trouble. Cool looking mod but the switch design is a head scratcher.
I threaded a nylon spacer to 6-32 and pressed it in from the battery to the atty connector, then screwed in two brass screws to make adjustable poles. I removed a piece of the spacer where the gap of the two screws intersects. It worked for a bit, but the adjustment has to be spot on or the firing pin doesn't contact both pins at the same time. Overall, not worth the trouble. Cool looking mod but the switch design is a head scratcher.
I'd think they'd use a adjustable pin up top threaded and, a switch similar to the iSeason or other GG related switches where the" plate" contacts the two pins.
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Sent from the 804
Get one, I found mine for $15 used! I sanded the chrome down to brass and cut the outer sleeve, now it accepts 18350 only. Waaay nicer on the pocket. Fun lil mods
Get one, I found mine for $15 used! I sanded the chrome down to brass and cut the outer sleeve, now it accepts 18350 only. Waaay nicer on the pocket. Fun lil mods
View attachment 227137
oh i like..
I finally took my #20 switch apart last night, well at least the top and bottom pins. Looking it over the design of the switch really doesn't bother me as much as it once did**. I dry sanded and wet sanded with Oxgard the top pin where it makes contact with the spring and applied Oxgard to the "spring" inside and out - very thin as to not promote self-fires - and reassembled. Thing hits like a truck now and while I'm no electrical engineer I think that the Oxgard would help protect from "welding" the spring to the top pin, which I assume is what happens in most failures.
I am so happy with this mod so far.
** this being said I still am trying to source the parts and equipment to rebuild the switch the way I want to try it... Its not coming together. Being an adult with many important things to do is lame.
I am so happy with this mod so far.
** this being said I still am trying to source the parts and equipment to rebuild the switch the way I want to try it... Its not coming together. Being an adult with many important things to do is lame.
What a surprise! I was suppose to get my 19e this friday but it came in early! I immediately put a fresh battery, screwed my igo-l on top, and it was a dud!! no fire. Grabbed my dmm and check voltage on the positive post and there's voltage. Unscrewed the head, took the spring out and found the problem! the delrin where the positive screw goes does not sit flush with the head and not making any contact with my rba's. Unscrewed the delrin and found some burrs, sanded the bottom head to get the burrs out and re-assembled and I am in vaping mode! my impression, I'm still not a big fan of the magnet but holy smokes, this thing hits hard out of the box! it's almost as good as my heavily modified 19! soo I'm thinking of leaving the magnet in there for now and just do the copper wire switch mod thing. Oh and btw, unscrewing the head on mine I'm catching a bad spot on the thread, it gets tight while unscrewing then comes off. Very happy with it so far.
my impression, I'm still not a big fan of the magnet but holy smokes, this thing hits hard out of the box! it's almost as good as my heavily modified 19! soo I'm thinking of leaving the magnet in there for now and just do the copper wire switch mod thing. Oh and btw, unscrewing the head on mine I'm catching a bad spot on the thread, it gets tight while unscrewing then comes off. Very happy with it so far.
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Here's my variation of the #19 modifications.
Filed down original cap to flush with grinding stone mounted on drill press, then finished with 100 & 200 grit sand paper for brushed look.
Removed Spring and using just the brass screw for battery contact.
Because of how much I filed away from the top cap, the terminal connection actually needs to be backed out quite a bit.
Bottom button modified for shortened throw, fixed misfires, and lowered resistance.
Here are all the parts to my bottom button.
The original brass post is modded to have a brass screw as contacts, 2 o-rings and a plastic washer as spacers to shorten throw.
The post was tapped to fit the screw, but it ended up being too loose for some reason. The o-ring and washer combo made the screw more rigid and level.
You can see that the distance between the insulating cup and the top of the brass post is about 1mm, that space is the button throw
A washer was added below the insulating cup to give a better conductivity for the spring instead of just the sidewalls
Unfortunately the added space of the washer meant that the insulating cup would not screw down all the way.
This caused a problem because if I loosened the lock ring, the insulating cup would loosen and either cause battery rattle or mess up the spacing for the lock ring. This was fixed by adding an o-ring to the insulating cup to compensate the space taken by the added washer.
Here is the finished button in all its glory
All put together with RSST running dual coil with stainless rope and mesh liner setup at .4 ohms vaping 100% VG Hanami Sado (Personal mix)
Filed down original cap to flush with grinding stone mounted on drill press, then finished with 100 & 200 grit sand paper for brushed look.
Removed Spring and using just the brass screw for battery contact.
Because of how much I filed away from the top cap, the terminal connection actually needs to be backed out quite a bit.
Bottom button modified for shortened throw, fixed misfires, and lowered resistance.
Here are all the parts to my bottom button.
The original brass post is modded to have a brass screw as contacts, 2 o-rings and a plastic washer as spacers to shorten throw.
The post was tapped to fit the screw, but it ended up being too loose for some reason. The o-ring and washer combo made the screw more rigid and level.
You can see that the distance between the insulating cup and the top of the brass post is about 1mm, that space is the button throw
A washer was added below the insulating cup to give a better conductivity for the spring instead of just the sidewalls
Unfortunately the added space of the washer meant that the insulating cup would not screw down all the way.
This caused a problem because if I loosened the lock ring, the insulating cup would loosen and either cause battery rattle or mess up the spacing for the lock ring. This was fixed by adding an o-ring to the insulating cup to compensate the space taken by the added washer.
Here is the finished button in all its glory
All put together with RSST running dual coil with stainless rope and mesh liner setup at .4 ohms vaping 100% VG Hanami Sado (Personal mix)
It didn't appear to...there was a VERY small amount of something in one of the threads that I just scraped out with a pin after I got it apart, but I doubt it was any form of glue/locktite...not enough of it.
The thing that finally worked for mine was giving it a good smack with a nylon-faced hammer (on a padded vice - & make sure you hit it squarely, not at an angle)... came right apart after that with no damage to the switch or button.
I described the process fully here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/420420-sigelei-19-tips-tricks-donts-46.html#post9983839
(Post #459)
Good luck...
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Great job! That push button segment looks like it came from the factory that way. If only I could figure out how to take out my magnet
I removed mine by holding the brass with pliers, and placing the magnet end directly in front of the torch flame. After about 8 seconds it fell right out.
It will loose all magnetic properties from the heat so dont have other plans for it.
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