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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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Apparently I spoke too soon. While fresh noalox cured one of my V3s the other still has issues. Misfires and menu jumping. It often turns itself off as in menu #1 off. When I replaced the battery the sigelei logo scrolled across the screen but I couldn't turn it on. Repeated rapid clicking finally brought it around. I've also tried the 100 click fix. This also happens to be the mod with the cracked grommet so perhaps liquid did manage to find its way inside but it isn't apparent as the screen is still clean and clear. Sometimes the display flicks off then back on again while the button it pushed. Perhaps the switch is going? It has been well cared for and never dropped and is one of two I use daily. I'm very disappointed that it is acting up after only three months time. Hopefully I'll have better luck with it's twin.
After three months of use the battery spring will have compressed a little from the original length of 17mm. Stretch the spring a little or if you are using longer than 18350 batteries tighten the tube accordingly. These springs are stiff and hard to stretch. The bottom coil on the battery spring should fit tightly into the battery cap. If it doesn't then enlarge that coil slightly. Some put Noalox on the bottom coil of the spring, too.
The brushed stainless V5 for $42 at Electronicstix has sold out. The black V5 is still in stock for $46.
Electronicstix V5 in black
Electronicstix V5 in black
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MotherNatural, sorry to hear that. Hopefully your problems are caused by the button and not from e-juice getting in your tube. If you can see e-juice moisture in the bottom of your 510, chances are good that e-juice got in your tube as well.
Just so you know, of the two V3's I've tried to fix that had cracks in the 510 connector (allowed e-juice to get into the tube), only 1 of them ended up with a fogged up window. The other one never fogged up but the e-juice that got inside was enough to render it unusable. It would work for a while, then shut down and would not turn on again until several hours had gone by (usually the next day). Luckily I was able to seal the crack and save the "fogged up" V3 before it went bad.
I'm not trying to scare you, I'm just letting you know that the window doesn't necessarily need to get foggy to indicate that e-juice has gotten inside. If e-juice got in your tube which is causing those weird symptoms, it may not be too late to disassemble and clean it out to resolve your problems. The 510 connector would also need to be sealed to keep any e-juice out in the future.
I realize that disassembling your V3 might not be an option for you and you may prefer to just continue to use it till it dies. In that case, you could try laying it down with the button/window facing up when you're not using it. That way if any e-juice got inside it would "hopefully" stay away from the electronics for as long as possible (don't hold it or let it sit upright if you can avoid it). You may also want to try using a small dab of liquid superglue to help seal the crack to minimize any more e-juice from getting in there. Clean the 510 first with a Q-tip lightly moistened with alcohol and try not to get super glue on the top of the center contact. If you accidentally do, let the super glue dry completely first and then scrape it off. Otherwise you may just make it worse if you try to wipe it off wet.
Thank you for the reminder on the spring, yzer. I'd forgotten that step. But unfortunately it didn't help.
I won't shoot the messenger, fairmana. I understand that liquid could have gotten on the inside without showing on the screen. As the evening wears on it continues to go downhill. I'll lay it on it's side for the night and see what tomorrow brings without huge expectations. Luckily I have others. I was so close to ordering a Provari from their blemish sale yesterday too (had it in the cart) but decided to wait and see if the V3 was VW.
Thank you both for the advice.
I won't shoot the messenger, fairmana. I understand that liquid could have gotten on the inside without showing on the screen. As the evening wears on it continues to go downhill. I'll lay it on it's side for the night and see what tomorrow brings without huge expectations. Luckily I have others. I was so close to ordering a Provari from their blemish sale yesterday too (had it in the cart) but decided to wait and see if the V3 was VW.
Thank you both for the advice.
Short of disassembly and cleaning you could try a can of no-deposit electronics cleaner/wash like Deoxit Degreaser Wash from Caig Laboratories, Inc. Put on the spray tube and shoot some into the insulator crack and then into the internals from inside the tube. Shake it out fast after using because it evaporates quickly. A can of this costs $8 at Fry's, a local electronics store. This will leave the insulator clean and ready for sealant, too. Although I haven't tried this on a Sigelei I have used it on complete boards and electrical parts.
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I will definitely give it a try. While it may take me some time to find this product I'll be sure to report the results. If the local hardware store doesn't carry it I'll see if the computer repair shop uses it and will accommodate me.
This is the best online price I could find...
Caig Laboratories Contact Cleaner Wash Val-U Series, 10 oz. | DCC-V510 (DCCV510) | Caig Laboratories
Caig Laboratories Contact Cleaner Wash Val-U Series, 10 oz. | DCC-V510 (DCCV510) | Caig Laboratories
Yes, it seems to be the same stuff, but a different brand.
Here is the MSDS for the stuff I use. Your product may be similar. It works.
http://store.caig.com/core/media/media.nl?id=1813&c=ACCT113328&h=77189c1fda59d981bcf6&whence=
http://store.caig.com/core/media/media.nl?id=1813&c=ACCT113328&h=77189c1fda59d981bcf6&whence=
What battery size are you running in that one? Is it noalox appropriately for the battery size? Stick a finger in the tube to the positive connection, can you move the board up and down by the positive pin, or do you notice it shift when you push a battery into the Tube hard enough the board/screen should move.
What type if atomizer do you use on that one is it a heavy leaker?
I get the same symptoms, don't think its leak related. It is button or connection problems. Did you try the button twist fix?
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The link I posted for the Blue Works from Amazon was on one of those 15 minute specials @ $5.86 so I went ahead and ordered a can. It should be here on Friday.
I run this with a 18650 and it has been well coated with noalox in the proper places. I went ahead and added some to the bottom of the spring last night too. No, I've never notice the board moving and it's never shifted. The only atomizers I use on it are PT2s with an aerobase so when it leaks the liquid goes into the base and a Kayfun lite+ which would only leak out the air hole. Not to say some didn't manage to get in there somehow but neither should cause an obvious or continuous problem.
I've been using this mod for the first time today for the past 15 minutes or so and it doesn't seem to be acting up as often as it was yesterday but still with occasional menu jumping. It's been laying flat and face up since fairmana's suggestion so this may have helped. (which would lead one back to believe a leak issue) Hopefully yzer's suggestion of the contact cleaner will bring it back to reliable life.
Oops…it just jumped to menu #1 off again.
I run this with a 18650 and it has been well coated with noalox in the proper places. I went ahead and added some to the bottom of the spring last night too. No, I've never notice the board moving and it's never shifted. The only atomizers I use on it are PT2s with an aerobase so when it leaks the liquid goes into the base and a Kayfun lite+ which would only leak out the air hole. Not to say some didn't manage to get in there somehow but neither should cause an obvious or continuous problem.
I've been using this mod for the first time today for the past 15 minutes or so and it doesn't seem to be acting up as often as it was yesterday but still with occasional menu jumping. It's been laying flat and face up since fairmana's suggestion so this may have helped. (which would lead one back to believe a leak issue) Hopefully yzer's suggestion of the contact cleaner will bring it back to reliable life.
Oops…it just jumped to menu #1 off again.
MotherNatural, I'm assuming the "menu jumping" you're referring to is taking place as you hold the button down, correct? That sounds like a button problem to me. What happens is that instead of making a solid continuous electrical connection while holding the button down, that connection is intermittent (fluctuates between on and off) which makes the processor think you're manually "clicking" the button on and off. This is why people with button problems will be holding the button down while vaping only to discover afterwards that they've been moving through the menu and possibly changing menu options. Getting to the "On/Off" menu requires 3 button presses. When I had a button problem, I would sometimes get to my "Power Up" menu and end up changing my power level from 8 watts to 13 watts. If I didn't notice that it happened and correct it, my next vape would obviously be pretty hot. 
Earlier you mentioned strange screen behavior which made me consider that you might have e-juice in your tube. However I may have misunderstood the symptoms you were describing. I went back a page in the thread to re-read what you wrote and the screen "flickering" when you push the button is what threw me off. Thinking about that a little more, that "flickering" could simply be the V3 reacting normally to slower intermittent signals of "on and off" from the button. I can make my V3 screen "flicker" if I press my button about once every second.
Long story short, I'm leaning more towards a bad button in your situation. I think the probability of having e-juice in your tube is pretty low, since it sounds like you've been using toppers that minimize or altogether eliminate leakage into your 510 connector. I would guess that replacing the button would fix your problem and sealing the crack as a preventative measure will eliminate any future possibility of e-juice getting in there.
Earlier you mentioned strange screen behavior which made me consider that you might have e-juice in your tube. However I may have misunderstood the symptoms you were describing. I went back a page in the thread to re-read what you wrote and the screen "flickering" when you push the button is what threw me off. Thinking about that a little more, that "flickering" could simply be the V3 reacting normally to slower intermittent signals of "on and off" from the button. I can make my V3 screen "flicker" if I press my button about once every second.
Long story short, I'm leaning more towards a bad button in your situation. I think the probability of having e-juice in your tube is pretty low, since it sounds like you've been using toppers that minimize or altogether eliminate leakage into your 510 connector. I would guess that replacing the button would fix your problem and sealing the crack as a preventative measure will eliminate any future possibility of e-juice getting in there.
Precisely, fairmana. You've described it perfectly. A few times I found myself vaping at strangely low or incredibly high watts. As I think back this didn't just happen overnight but has been slowly becoming more frequent. Yes, it's exactly as though I were scrolling through the menu while attempting to vape but it then stops randomly at a menu item and changes it. Once it switched from RMS to mean.
Perhaps I'll order a couple of switches from the link posted earlier. While I know very little about electronics one day I may just decide to get brave and tinker with it. No harm done if it doesn't work anyway.
Thank you for the diagnosis.
Perhaps I'll order a couple of switches from the link posted earlier. While I know very little about electronics one day I may just decide to get brave and tinker with it. No harm done if it doesn't work anyway.
Thank you for the diagnosis.
I think fairmana has it nailed, too. The funny thing is I had misfires from the switch of my first V3 from time to time but they eventually cleared up. I am using that 14 month-old first generation V3 right now without issues. If the misfires return I'll do the switch replacement. I have the yellow repplacement switches ready to go. Also have a little Weller 12 watt soldering pencil that should be perfect for the job. A Weller SP-12 costs $15 or less. Solder, flux and desoldering braid are also inexpensive. My biggest question would be how to remove the first generation head from the tube with no scratches but I'll ask about that when/if the times comes.
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Button issues are very random.. Even though I reported that the switch sucks during my first month, I'm still using it 8-9 months later. Same switch.. The problem Comes and goes. It's the pitting in the contact dome. You can try the push and twist. Push fairly hard on the button with your thumb and turn it. This Can be hit and miss but if miss try again. You want it to set where the dome is clean. Even just spinning it like that can hep clean the contacts... *Just power threw it and it will start working good again.
Yzer as you know id say...
The head is very easy to get off if you have a stainless rba tank.. Like a kayfun or oddy.... And a small screwdriver or butter knife ect.
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This is a simple question but... I'd rather be 100% sure! which way does my battery go into the v3? I assume positive to the top with negative at the spring? Excuse my stupidity...
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