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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
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I'm usually around 10w nowadays.. Pretty much haven't touched my old Protanks in a few weeks, just using my single KFL (and getting another).. coils are down to 1.4-1.8 so that's the range I'm at. The SiD for whatever reason doesn't vape near as well as the MVP so looking for something that will hehe. For all I know it could be the freebie battery I got with it just doesn't cut it..
Hey, just wanted to jump in here - previously, depending on certain circumstances, the Zmaxes (of course, Sigelei) could develop non-responsive button issues. They could be repetitive, or just once every so often. I'm looking to replace my VTR, and I loved my Zmax 3 until I developed the button issue and had to return it, so I was wondering if they've gotten the button issue fixed in the past year, and frankly, how durable it is, or how durable it is, say vs. an SVD version 1. I tend to drop things.
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I've had occasional button issues that have always cleared up by cleaning the threads, spring and cap. I probably should take a long q-tip to the contact as well.
I think these will be discontinued. I see Vamo 6 and 7, SVD 2.0, box mods, all with higher power and other features.
I think these will be discontinued. I see Vamo 6 and 7, SVD 2.0, box mods, all with higher power and other features.
But has Sigelei announced a new version of this, or do you think they are stopping it in favor of the Legend (I can't get behind moving the device to change the voltage/wattage - probably one of the reasons I'm not leaning that way)?
Anything that sells in number will continue to be made, like ego starter kits for example. As long as this device can be made cheaply and sells well enough worldwide, it will be made. Whether or not US retailers will carry them and at what price is the mystery. iSticks and the like will take a large chunk of the low price 7-20w market. I think newer Chinese chips will make the Zmax chip obsolete.
Maybe there will be a V6 like vamos have. Same or similar tube with different chip. Battery technology has allowed for higher power limits, not chips.
Maybe there will be a V6 like vamos have. Same or similar tube with different chip. Battery technology has allowed for higher power limits, not chips.
Coming up on a year since I got my v5. It's been through hell and back, scratched up pretty bad, screen is crooked, dropped more times than I can count (HARD drops too), still works like a charm.
only complain is I get the odd misfire if I don't push the button hard enough sometimes. I've read some instructions on how to get it apart and straighten the circuitry out, but honestly it's not worth the risk of destroying the unit for the few times it inconveniences me.
and as an interesting little side note, I still have the USB charger in the orginal packaging, never used
The MVP has a larger battery capacity and it will push that coil to 11w max.
The Sid is a 15w chip with about a 2.5 amp limit. A 1.5 ohm coil can probably only achieve 9.5w on it you would need a 2.4ohm to reach 15w
MVP = Plated brass 510 like the tmax, strip strip. 11w max if that suits you then power wise it will be good.
Button issues clear if you keep using it mine is over a year old and I use it all day every day about 260 puffs+ a day or 95,000 button pushes so far... It had an issue at first, but noalox and the turning button trick did a lot to resolve it, but I still think that stacking batteries really cured it. I may get a misfire or two a day, but those are related to not pushing the button all the way.
I'm on a 1.4 ohm pushing 24w to the coil and the batteries last all day under maximum stress. If I ran a single 18650 I would only get 9-10w on average to a 1.4 ohm coil.
My zmax has been through mod hell, I have no concerns with its durability..
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You'd be surprised how durable it is when you take it apart. Theres very little chance of damaging it... The wires and solder to the 510 are surprisingly strong. Not like some mods I've had that broke the wires just taking them apart. If you use just a little caution pulling the top, so you don't yank it out with full strength there is no chance it will break.
hmm maybe I'll give it a shot. what did you use to get the top off? i read that you should be using a vice, do you think I would be able to get it off with just a clamp? I'm battling a cold and don't want to walk out in the cold to my work shed
hmm maybe I'll give it a shot. what did you use to get the top off? i read that you should be using a vice, do you think I would be able to get it off with just a clamp? I'm battling a cold and don't want to walk out in the cold to my work shed
Check out my post here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14576704
I used an old beauty ring attached to the ego thread and gripped that with a pair of channel lock pliers.
Just got my new V5 fired up today with a Kanger Genitank Mega and it vapes out very good.
Took a little bit to get the menu figured out and set up the way I wanted to start with and I vaped about 25/30 times and then started to tinker with the VW/VV and that is when I found out how I am not a fan of the one button menu system.
I had thoughts of getting my wife one as she live the tube mod much better than the HANA box mod...but she'll never get the menu function down so I'm just not sure where to go from here...
I can live with the menu system so I'm ok with it....as I know we will be adding more different mods in the future we'll come up with something she can get around in the menu with more ease!!
Other than the menu..I really like it....well built and looks as if it's gonna be with me for a long time!!
Also.....is there a way to set the display to stay on? I have tried but the only way I get the display to light up is to press the fire button...which does just that...fires it...which seems to me to be kinda not good to have it firing the coil while I'm looking at the display.
Thanks!!
Took a little bit to get the menu figured out and set up the way I wanted to start with and I vaped about 25/30 times and then started to tinker with the VW/VV and that is when I found out how I am not a fan of the one button menu system.
I had thoughts of getting my wife one as she live the tube mod much better than the HANA box mod...but she'll never get the menu function down so I'm just not sure where to go from here...
I can live with the menu system so I'm ok with it....as I know we will be adding more different mods in the future we'll come up with something she can get around in the menu with more ease!!
Other than the menu..I really like it....well built and looks as if it's gonna be with me for a long time!!
Also.....is there a way to set the display to stay on? I have tried but the only way I get the display to light up is to press the fire button...which does just that...fires it...which seems to me to be kinda not good to have it firing the coil while I'm looking at the display.
Thanks!!
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hmm maybe I'll give it a shot. what did you use to get the top off? i read that you should be using a vice, do you think I would be able to get it off with just a clamp? I'm battling a cold and don't want to walk out in the cold to my work shed
You have a stainless kfl right. Full stainless, that's all you need man I NEVER used a vice or pliers. The no tool method.
With beauty ring off zmax..
Take the full stainless kfl adjust so its flush on the 510 if possible. Now take it and at the Seam of the top cap place both thumbs, try to pop it like breaking a stick. You will see a gap start. Turn over and do the other side... Repeat. Then you will have a decent gap to get a mini flat head screwdriver, or whatever, in the gap to gently pop it loose working side to side if needed. Slide the card out... Your cap is off! Start modding a retainer!
If you can't pop it by hand. With the kfl on in full stainless. Pick a strong edge. Literally slam it just below the seam so the force of the atty going against the mod will pop it loose. You'll see a small gap work it side to side.
The stainless is strong, no damage will occur.
To put it back together when it's all lined up use a hammer to pop it back in keeping it straight when you hammer on it. A socket that fits over the 510 is best.. Should only take a couple blows.
If you don't have a hammer. Take the main body of the zmax with the top cap in enough to stay, place 510 against the ground, use a dish towel ever the end on the threads. Keeping it plumb; Put your body weight down on it from the tube threads side, it should press in.
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Thanks to everyone who replied. I went ahead and ordered it yesterday, and it got to my "local" sort facility tonight - so barring any incidents, I should have it in my hot little hands tomorrow.
I'm sorry, I can't remember who was talking about the MVP - I went to the MVP after I my last Sig Zmax failed and I had to return it - I think it was V3 - then stepped up to the VTR after that. Durability, the MVP was excellent. But having to charge the whole thing rather than swap out batteries, even if the built in battery lasted a danged long time, was a PITA (which is why I upgraded to the VTR). I can't go back to the MVP now, although I was fond of the box mod before my hands got as bad, but with the MVP being a necessary thumb trigger, I just can't manage it long term - as in several hours a day.
While overall, my VTR has been durable, I use the extension thing so that the tank isn't sitting down in the recessed hole - for one reason because even with longer drip tips, I felt like my face was right up against the device when I dropped the tank into the slot, and for two, because it seemed to me, especially now (although something COULD have screwed up with it recently), the draw when you put it down there was tighter. But now, I guess after I dropped it the other day, at least, this was the first I noticed it, I noticed that extender was bent. It actually looks somewhat funny, lol.
But I'm excited that my Zmax is almost here, and I'm going back to a menu that tells me exactly what voltage is left in my battery (something the MVP would do, but the VTR does not do, you just have the range of green, yellow, red).
I'm sorry, I can't remember who was talking about the MVP - I went to the MVP after I my last Sig Zmax failed and I had to return it - I think it was V3 - then stepped up to the VTR after that. Durability, the MVP was excellent. But having to charge the whole thing rather than swap out batteries, even if the built in battery lasted a danged long time, was a PITA (which is why I upgraded to the VTR). I can't go back to the MVP now, although I was fond of the box mod before my hands got as bad, but with the MVP being a necessary thumb trigger, I just can't manage it long term - as in several hours a day.
While overall, my VTR has been durable, I use the extension thing so that the tank isn't sitting down in the recessed hole - for one reason because even with longer drip tips, I felt like my face was right up against the device when I dropped the tank into the slot, and for two, because it seemed to me, especially now (although something COULD have screwed up with it recently), the draw when you put it down there was tighter. But now, I guess after I dropped it the other day, at least, this was the first I noticed it, I noticed that extender was bent. It actually looks somewhat funny, lol.
But I'm excited that my Zmax is almost here, and I'm going back to a menu that tells me exactly what voltage is left in my battery (something the MVP would do, but the VTR does not do, you just have the range of green, yellow, red).
Sometimes cleaning the threads and using Noalox can clear up what seems to be switch problems. However if you find that doesn't help, your internal switch contacts can be worn or dirty. Some people have reported that blowing out the switch or spinning the button while pressing it can help. When all methods fail, you're last option may be to replace the button with a new and better quality switch. My opinion is that the switches used in most Chinese-made mods are not very good quality and likely the cheapest they could find to keep consumer costs low.
If you're considering replacing the switch, you can check out my 2-part video on how to disassemble the Zmax, remove and replace the switch (minor soldering involved), and also how to insert a spacer to fix the circuit card shift problem that commonly occurs with the Zmax's. You can use whatever method you feel comfortable with to remove the top cap. The info for ordering the replacement switch can be found in the comment section of the video (click "Show More" to see the link). The switch will need some minor modification so that it will fit properly. Nothing too dramatic or difficult if you are somewhat handy.
When using common sense and care, there's no reason to suspect you'll render your V5 inoperative while you have it apart. The only area you should be cautious of handling on the circuit card is where the the thin ribbon cable is located next to the OLED screen. Although the first gen V3's OLED ribbon cable is much easier to damage than the later model V3 and V5 (wider and tucked in a little better), you should still use caution. You don't have to be overly paranoid about it, but at the same time you want to avoid squeezing the circuit card in that location between your fingers or otherwise over-handle the ribbon cable since there is always a possibility it could be damaged. You should also be cautious of catching the ribbon cable on the edge of the U-support if/when you are inserting the circuit card into the U-support slots.
The satisfaction of doing the job yourself is priceless, not to mention having the Zmax recognize each and every button press like it's supposed to. With a new button, the Zmax feels like a brand-new device.
The first button on V3 was clear plastic that was tinted grey. V5 buttons that were machined from solid stainless steel appeared on a very few units during the spring of 2014 ( I have one of them). Chrome plated plastic buttons with a power symbol began to appear on V3 and V5 in the fall of 2013.
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