Smjy doggystyle rta - is this right?

[Janusz]

Yeah I got so frustrated I tried and tried for like 4 hours and gave up lol. Maybe tomorrow I'll try again! So strange the ohm reader doesnt read the berserker mini properly if that is the case. I was too scared to put it in my mod to check , what if I misfire instead of turning it off , as it takes 5 pushes to turn off my target mini. Im so paranoid , probably too paranoid to be doing this, but sadly I only taste like 2 flavors in my nautilis mini tank and I want better flavor sooo badly.

I vape for just 6 months...I bought my first RTA 5 months ago... currently I have a 8 different RTAs... I made and installed close to 100 coils in those RTAs (I like to experiment with different builds)... and ?!?!.............. I do not own ohm reader .... I always check resistance on my mod (Aspire Zelos or Geek Vape Aegis)...

Your Vaporeso Target Mini have build in:

• Over Temperature Protection
• Low Resistance Protection
• Short Circuit Protection
• Overcharge Protection

By checking your build on your mod your risk is probably not bigger than lightning strike on sunny day... and much, much smaller than your commute drive to and from work. If something go wrong with your build you will be informed by your mod screen ....usually on my it tells me -"no atomizer found".

Did you trimmed those long coil legs??? You should not check resistance with coil legs not trimmed... also check if connection pin on bottom of berserker is not loose (if it is use screwdriver to tighten it) or dirty.

Securing coil on doggy is not very easy... I was somewhat ridiculed when i expressed it on this forum a while ago...I wish it was as easy as on Siren 2 but with every attempt it will be easier... wicking is more difficult in very different way than coil building or mounting...in some way it is only possible to learn it by actually doing it (and it depends on our feel rather than exact science) Good wicking is learned fast but perfect one is more art than science... but doggy is very forgiving and much easier than many other RTAs in this regard... specially when wicked with rayon.

Be patient and persistent and you will be rewarded with great flavor and much cheaper vaping costs.

 

[AngeNZ]

Yeah I got so frustrated I tried and tried for like 4 hours and gave up lol. Maybe tomorrow I'll try again! So strange the ohm reader doesnt read the berserker mini properly if that is the case. I was too scared to put it in my mod to check , what if I misfire instead of turning it off , as it takes 5 pushes to turn off my target mini. Im so paranoid , probably too paranoid to be doing this, but sadly I only taste like 2 flavors in my nautilis mini tank and I want better flavor sooo badly.

Tara - try it again. I found with my first time (doggy style RTA) it was a steep learning curve. But once I had got it working, it all clicked into place.

With your doggy: if you watch that video (turn the sound off ) at 4min30 sec - he takes you thru coil winding and then placing it on the deck. I built while doing what he did, pausing the vid, watching and doing the next step etc.

Your last pics of the doggy were pretty good - maybe just aim to have the coil a bit lower like in the pics @bwh79 posted.

The main thing is to secure the legs - cut off the legs, and with the jig in your coil - center it as much as you can.

Wicking wise - I found if you use a strip similar to the size in the video (about 7mm) and cut the tails as he does - the doggy is pretty forgiving. Its only ever leaked on me when an o-ring came off.

Don't worry about things shorting or blowing up - ive tested a coil on my mod and had one split - it just popped and I got an 'atomizer short' message. I've had legs come loose - got the same thing.

Good luck

 

[stylemessiah]

1st tip, ohm readers, unless you have a really well made expensive one are usually useless, and will lead to what youre going through, a circular pattern of misreadings and constant rebuilding. By all means build on it if you find that easy as a base, but get all your readings on the mod, thats what matters as the mod fires it, not the ohm meter

More of my rant against ohm meters in this post, because someone asked about ohm meters the other week: Never built a coil before

If youre worried abot the coil legs not being securely trapped you may be able to do what i do with my Lemo 2's, which have a lot less screw head by the look of the DoggyStyle to secure the legs, and wrap the wire around the screw a turn before screwing down.

Next tip: stick with it and watch the videos that relate to your tank(s) and take advice from others here, dont give up, everyones first experience in rebuilding is a learning curve. I started out rebuilding from day one of switching to vaping, no steeper curve than that...it will become easier, i promise

Also you are in no immediate danger of shorting anything, even the DoggyStyle has way more of a spacious deck between posts than a Lemo 2, found this photo showing how not to build a Lemo 2 lol. Coil too low, needs a lift....ive highlighted and arrowed the area of concern, this is far far closer to a short than you are

And this is similar to how i do the wire once round the screw trick....

 

[lil_buddy]

1st tip, ohm readers, unless you have a really well made expensive one are usually useless, and will lead to what youre going through, a circular pattern of misreadings and constant rebuilding. By all means build on it if you find that easy as a base, but get all your readings on the mod, thats what matters as the mod fires it, not the ohm meter

More of my rant against ohm meters in this post, because someone asked about ohm meters the other week: Never built a coil before

If youre worried abot the coil legs not being securely trapped you may be able to do what i do with my Lemo 2's, which have a lot less screw head to secure the legs, and wrap the wire around the screw a turn before screwing down

Next tip: stick with it and watch the videos that relate to your tank(s) and take advice from others here, dont give up, everyones first experience in rebuilding is a learning curve. I started out rebuilding from day one of switching to vaping, no steeper curve than that...it will become easier, i promise

I got an ohm reader off fasttech for $10, and it's readings are significantly different from my mods. I never use that thing so it was a total waste of money

Also, I think it's basically a mechanical mod. I feel like the short protections on my mods are more reliable

 

[stylemessiah]

I got an ohm reader off fasttech for $10, and it's readings are significantly different from my mods. I never use that thing so it was a total waste of money

Also, I think it's basically a mechanical mod. I feel like the short protections on my mods are more reliable

Me too, i got an Eleaf one, prolly the worst of all ohm meters, off some slowboat site, typical newbie, thinking i needed all this stuff...used it once, saw it was up to poo compared to my mods, and got on with life leaving it to my mods...which are more accurate and have protection

 

[G and C]

1st tip, ohm readers, unless you have a really well made expensive one are usually useless, and will lead to what youre going through, a circular pattern of misreadings and constant rebuilding.

This. Exactly this. Use the ohm reader as a base to screw your tank into for building on if you want to, but take the battery out and leave it out. Those things are terribly frustrating and led me to almost giving up on making my own coils.

Now I just build right on the mod (turned off, obviously).

 

[stols001]

My ohm's reader is mainly a stable base and it's not supremely way off most of the time. But for me, it's useful to build all the way up to a test vape or two. I really (if it's gonna happen) prefer to leak all over it than my nice mods and I have certainly done so a time or two. It just keeps going. LOL.

Anna

 

[tara81]

Thank you everyone for your support and advice !

1st tip, ohm readers, unless you have a really well made expensive one are usually useless, and will lead to what youre going through, a circular pattern of misreadings and constant rebuilding. By all means build on it if you find that easy as a base, but get all your readings on the mod, thats what matters as the mod fires it, not the ohm meter

More of my rant against ohm meters in this post, because someone asked about ohm meters the other week: Never built a coil before

If youre worried abot the coil legs not being securely trapped you may be able to do what i do with my Lemo 2's, which have a lot less screw head by the look of the DoggyStyle to secure the legs, and wrap the wire around the screw a turn before screwing down.

Next tip: stick with it and watch the videos that relate to your tank(s) and take advice from others here, dont give up, everyones first experience in rebuilding is a learning curve. I started out rebuilding from day one of switching to vaping, no steeper curve than that...it will become easier, i promise

Also you are in no immediate danger of shorting anything, even the DoggyStyle has way more of a spacious deck between posts than a Lemo 2, found this photo showing how not to build a Lemo 2 lol. Coil too low, needs a lift....ive highlighted and arrowed the area of concern, this is far far closer to a short than you are

And this is similar to how i do the wire once round the screw trick....

In your first photo, I don't see what is wrong if the wire is not touching the bottom of the base on the side the yellow block and arrow is, on the other side it is though .. and the base looks like it's made of wood, Sorry I just don't understand the photo ;D

In the second photo, that looks pretty neat ! So you can wrap the wire completely around the screw and have it touch itself again , this is totally safe? I never saw this before on any tutorials ! Does anyone know how likely it is that a leg wrap around the screw would come undone or out of place while vaping ? I wish i wasn't so paranoid lol. Is it better to use thinner gauge wire on these small devices , should I be using 30 gauge wire instead of 28 ? I really want to try out 1.6 - 1.8 ohm builds as that is what I prefer in the nautilis mini

 

[stylemessiah]

Thank you everyone for your support and advice !



In your first photo, I don't see what is wrong if the wire is not touching the bottom of the base on the side the yellow block and arrow is, on the other side it is though .. and the base looks like it's made of wood, Sorry I just don't understand the photo ;D

In the second photo, that looks pretty neat ! So you can wrap the wire completely around the screw and have it touch itself again , this is totally safe? I never saw this before on any tutorials ! Does anyone know how likely it is that a leg wrap around the screw would come undone or out of place while vaping ? I wish i wasn't so paranoid lol. Is it better to use thinner gauge wire on these small devices , should I be using 30 gauge wire instead of 28 ? I really want to try out 1.6 - 1.8 ohm builds as that is what I prefer in the nautilis mini

There is not a problem in the first pic, but it's closer to being one than I'd like. There is only just a gap in the highlighted area.. I posted it only to show you you aren't anywhere near being in danger. That pic was meant to be reassuring by contrast....

2nd pic, yes you can technically and practically on decks like this go right around the screw..Ive been doing it for over 3 years. I didn't invent it, it was suggested to me right here on ECF as I hated using the side holes on the Lemo 2 deck..the added bonus was that my ohms readings were far more stable...extra handy as I use temp control.

I don't think you're quite getting the concept of a short/danger and are perhaps too paranoid (not a phrase we'd normally use as we're uber safety minded here)

As how to hit 1.6-1.8 ohms, that's really down to wire type and gauges

If you haven't been there before, have a look at Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

You only need to select/enter wire material, diameter of wire (gauge), target resistance, inner diameter of coil and in the results section it will show how many (ballpark- see below) wraps are needed to hit that resistance with those other settings...if the number of wraps is too many to fit in the deck space, change the diameter of wire setting until it is a manageable number if wraps

As I always point out do not take steam engines info to be 100%, it's estimated wraps are a general guide/ballpark and you may end up with a little less (usually if it's going to be off, it will be less)/more ohms due to this, but it's still a good ballpark...if it's a little low, next time add a wrap, a little high, next time take wrap off....



Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

 

[tara81]

I see Thank you so much for explaining that to me ! Yeah the first photo I just thought the opposite side was touching and in danger, moreso then the other side, but I do understand you put it as an example, which did relieve my worries about my coil building being too close to the screw(posts) !

I do feel like 28 gauge wire is pretty flimsy, i could easily move the wire back and forth to break it instead of using wire cutters, is this a bad idea?

Thanks everyone for being so patient lol

 

[tara81]

Okay, so , I attempted this again. Do these look good?

Vandy vape berserker mini, tank #1

Same tank. Vandy vape mini , tank #2

Doggystyle clone, sjmy, 28 gauge 9 wraps 2.0 mm ,
( i read in the video comments it performs better as 2.0 mm dia , and i felt it looked safer too )

 

[stols001]

Wire gauge depends on your wattage needs. I usually use 28 gauge if I'm making my own coil but I've used thinner wire with prebuilt coils and it's been fine.... Except for the one time I turned my wattage up to like 75 watts or so accidentally and vaped. My (rather thin wire) snapped instantly and burned.

I think? Perhaps? It also depends on your build, there are folks using ultra fine wire and I think I ordered some and at one point I may try it (mighta been super fine ribbon wire, actually) but I'll have to research how to use it effectively.

Hopefully ouare feeling more confident about your build and etc.

Anna

 

[lil_buddy]

Okay, so , I attempted this again. Do these look good?

Vandy vape berserker mini, tank #1
View attachment 750995 View attachment 750997

Same tank. Vandy vape mini , tank #2


View attachment 750999 View attachment 751001

Doggystyle clone, sjmy, 28 gauge 9 wraps 2.0 mm ,
( i read in the video comments it performs better as 2.0 mm dia , and i felt it looked safer too )
View attachment 751003 View attachment 751005 View attachment 751007

looks good to me. Wick em and vape!

 

[AngeNZ]

Well done Tara

I use nail cutters sometimes to cut off legs if it means I can get in closer

 

[stylemessiah]

Okay, so , I attempted this again. Do these look good?

Looking good!

Only thing ill say, and its not a reflection on your work in any way, its a general comment...as with any tank experience with building will let you know about coil placement heightwise off the deck, some tanks like the coil placed lower, some higher as this can affect both the airflow and most importantly, flavour. Its a very personal thing too.

 

[tara81]

So I attempted to dry burn the doggystyle coil in my mod and it didn't light up, 2.0 mm 1.5 ohms , my mod said volts were 3.8. I first tried at 5 watts then at 7 watts. How high do you dry burn coils at 1.4-1.8 ohms for hotspots? I am using kanthal wire. Am I supposed to dry burn to check for hot spots at higher temperatures then I vape at?

 

[stylemessiah]

So I attempted to dry burn the doggystyle coil in my mod and it didn't light up, 2.0 mm 1.5 ohms , my mod said volts were 3.8. I first tried at 5 watts then at 7 watts. How high do you dry burn coils at 1.4-1.8 ohms for hotspots? I am using kanthal wire. Am I supposed to dry burn to check for hot spots at higher temperatures then I vape at?

If youre glowing/dry burning just to check for hotspots...if you build spaced coils it all but eliminates hot spots....

Been a long while since i dry burned a coil - since switching to building spaced coils and temp control over 2 years ago its not even a thing i consider ever doing - but i seem to remember 12/13 watts on a 1.1 ohm kanthal coil in my Lemo 2's in the old days was just a starting point for glowing/dry burning my coils

5/7 watts is probably just too cool to get a proper glow/burn

Edit/update:

Feed your numbers into steam engine (i assumed 28GA wire), and then look at the Heat Flux:

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Increase the Heat Flux and watch the flame colour change and you should see the watttage/voltage change to get in the ballpark

 

[tara81]

I did it! I was so nervous but I did it. I dry burned and wicked them. I filled up two doggystyle sjmy clones and two vandy vape berserkers. Is it okay to store the tanks sideways in a case? Or do I have to keep them upright so the coil doesn't move ? The berserker looks so good with my tarot nano. I figured out I could dry burn at just 8 watts if I keep pulsing . Happy birthday to me! The doggystyle clone tastes better then the berserker so far, but I made the berserker higher ohms. I really need a magnifying glass to check my wraps, it's so tiny. I think my eyes are pretty strained from making sure the coil wasn't touching the post. I checked to make sure it wasn't touching before dry firing, during dry firing, and after wicking.


When should I recoil and change the wick? IS it bad that I like chain vaping, should I be concerned? I enjoy 5-8 second puffs, according to my revenger mini. I don't vape nicotine which is why I can chain vape for long periods.

 

[tara81]

Also, when the chamber is leaking, I tend to shake my naut minis with tissue over the top of the vape tank. Is it safe to do that with an rta with 28 gauge single wire, or will I shake the coil around too much to cause it to move?

 

[stols001]

So you rewick when it gets gunky and the taste starts to go. Some brave souls are on a rewicking kick and do so a LOT but I don't. I change my wick when the taste heads south. Also, congrats on your first builds!

Your coil can be dry burned or cleaned depending on what wire it is (I forget what you said you are using). Kanthal, you can just dry burn, meaning you leave your coil on the mod and use the mod or an ohm's reader to gently heat and pulse your wire while using ceramic tweezers to scrape off any accumulated gunk and also to make sure the coil is still glowing evenly. Some other wires need to be treated more gently, like stainless steel the jury is out on whether dry burning is advisable at high wattages .I use a combination of cleaning and pulsing it to be on the safe side. Well built coils can last for months. Titanium and nickel shouldn't be dry burned as they can't be overheated, so you'd have to clean those types of coils (I find a toothbrush and finishing up with some Vodka or everclear and q-tips works well. Also, no, shaking your mod a bit should be fine. I usually dislodge my builds, if I do, by dropping the mod or something. Etc.

Thinner wire needs to be dry burned with caution, too thin and dry burning can easily cause the coil to snap in certain places especially with accumulated gunk.

Chain vaping is just fine, however if you find that you are getting dry hits or a burnt taste, turn down your wattage open your airflow, and or take a break. Note that too thick tails can also cause this, but the doggystyle is a fairly low airflow tank. I vape mine at an all powerful 6.8 watts, but I'm a wattage weenie, I'd imagine I could go higher. But in no way will chain vaping harm your RTA, it just MAY overheat your tank a bit and etc. If you like to chain vape, are using TC capable wire, and want to avoid that issue, temp control might be helpful but if you are having no issues you don't HAVE to worry about that. Etc.

Anna