Smok tfv12 prince rba issues

[gsmit1]

But someone said that these smok fused clapton coils always crack a little bit, would you agree with that?

Most coils will sizzle and or crackle. That's normal.

The tank stopped overheating

This depends on what you mean by "overheating." Most tanks will get at least warm if you chainvape them and some warmer than others. This isn't necessarily a problem either. There are several factors that will contribute to how warm a tank or RDA will get in use.

However, at 70W and taking 3 fast hits one after another, I started tasting a little burned taste in the last hit. Maybe I put too much wick inside?

Well with 3 fast hits (kinda chain vaping) and 70 watts on a pair of .25 ohm coils it doesn't necessarily mean anything is very wrong either, but it can be dialed in even more. You might try a LITTLE less cotton now. How tight it is in the coil itself and how tight it is in the ports will have a direct impact on how well it wicks under different circumstances. Experimentation is everything. You're definitely way ahead of where you were yesterday

1/3 of a tank gone (8ml) and not even a drop leaked so far- I just unscrewed the tank and had a look underneath. Juice I'm using is 70/30.

Like I say. Excellent progress made here. You aren't stuck with those coils either ya know That's the great thing about rebuildables. There are dozens of ways you can build this.

How much resistance did you get when pulling the cotton through the coils?

And could you still at least move the cotton around A BIT in the ports? Meaning it shouldn't be packed in hard either.

I have to be offline for a few hours, but I'm certainly not the only person who can help either.

Congrats on the great progress you're making!

 

[PeterKay]

I have to be offline for a few hours, but I'm certainly not the only person who can help either.

No stress, you've already helped me a lot man. Now that I've dealt with the major issues, I can start practicing with that RBA, cause we can talk forever here but it won't replace the work that I have to do to improve. Next time I wick it I'll try a little less wick and see how it goes. Once I get a hold of some rayon, I'm also going to experimet with it and mix it with cotton. You spoke about a rayon core, I'm also thinking- maybe a layer of each, 50/50? Cotton to block juice holes, and rayon right behind it to improve juice flow? I see many options. I'll give it a shot and see how it goes I'm also curious how rayon "tastes"- whether I'll like it more than cotton or no in terms of flavour changes.

How much resistance did you get when pulling the cotton through the coils?

I could hear a rubbing sound when I was pulling it through. It wasn't moving back and forth easily, but it wasn't too hard either. It's a bit hard for me to judge "resistance" as I've never felt how a properly wicked cotton should slide. But I was able to adjust it after I cut one side without going too crazy.

And could you still at least move the cotton around A BIT in the ports? Meaning it shouldn't be packed in hard either.

Yes. One of the wicks felt slightly packed (so one side of the juice hole on each side), I must have put slightly more on one coil, but with that toothpick i managed to loosen off the dense areas and even everything out so it felt pretty much uniform all around.

There is just about one question I have: I've just finished that tank and took it apart again. Unfortunately, there was some juice inside the airflow. I noticed one thing: big drops of juice on top of both posts on the deck. I suspect the crackling shoots the juiceand it accumulates on top of the posts, correct? Is it possible that this was where the juice came from into the airflow, down the back of the posts? Maybe if I cut a small grove in the posts the juice will flow back onto the wick? Or take a tiny strip of cotton, sit it on top of the post and tuck both ends into the wick below?

 

[PeterKay]

Well, that's why mech users who are safety-conscious check their coil build frequently, not just right after they build it. Just because a coil has no short when you build it, it does not mean it won't develop a short 3 hours or 3 days down the road.



I don't blame you. It could be that your RBA is defective.

That said, if this episode was cause by a short in your coil/RBA then your regulated mod should not have stopped working like that. It should have given you an message about a short or "no atomizer" message when you press the fire button. So this episode could indicate a problem with the mod itself. Hard to say what's going on without testing.

I actually have a question. I tried something earlier: after rewicking that RBA and adjusting coils, I've screwed the deck on the mod to check my resistance. 0.243, so pretty much the same as it was (0.240). Then I took it off, screwed the juice cap on, checked again- no changes, so I decided the coils weren't touching it. But then I decided to check something- unscrewed the juice cap, flipped it upside down and put it on top of the coils so it was sitting on both coils, metal on metal. Then I screwed it on to the mod but the resistance hasn't changed? Was it because the cap wasn't touching the base itself? If yes, why nothing changed if there was a bit of metal that pretty much connected both coils together?

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

I actually have a question. I tried something earlier: after rewicking that RBA and adjusting coils, I've screwed the deck on the mod to check my resistance. 0.243, so pretty much the same as it was (0.240). Then I took it off, screwed the juice cap on, checked again- no changes, so I decided the coils weren't touching it. But then I decided to check something- unscrewed the juice cap, flipped it upside down and put it on top of the coils so it was sitting on both coils, metal on metal. Then I screwed it on to the mod but the resistance hasn't changed? Was it because the cap wasn't touching the base itself? If yes, why nothing changed if there was a bit of metal that pretty much connected both coils together?

Sorry, I cannot visualize what your saying. But if you are using your coils as coffee table or some place to rest parts on top of, please don't . lol

 

[PeterKay]

Sorry, I cannot visualize what your saying. But if you are using your coils as coffee table or some place to rest parts on top of, please don't . lol

lol

Ok i'll simplify the question: why the resistance of my coils measured by the mod hasn't changed when I put a big-... piece of metal on top of them that was touching both?

My main concerns: can I rely on my mod to detect whether the coil is touching the post or the juice cap if attaching metal bits to coils doesn't do anything to the readings. Or am I making an invalid assumption.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Good question. I don't have the answer. I think you may be making a valid assumption, I just don't understand why your mod did not detect it as a short, let alone detect a change in resistance.

 

[gsmit1]

Rayon vs 3 leading brands of Cotton - Head to Head test | E-Cigarette Forum

Thank YOU sir. That's the one

 

[gsmit1]

I don't blame you. It could be that your RBA is defective.

Not the burliest posts or screws ever. You do need to check it well and make sure nothing's changed when you're rewicking it.

 

[stols001]

I ah, would not do that.

But then again I also don't trust "RBA decks." In theory, it should have provided you with an atomizer short and if it didn't I would be rather worried.

I don't know what's the cause either if everything was hooked up and coiled up the way it should be. Um, like your ah fearless investigation lets put it that way. Very much not liking the results. Maybe someone here super knowledgeable knows the answer, but I am not that one.

Anna

 

[gsmit1]

Now that I've dealt with the major issues, I can start practicing with that RBA, cause we can talk forever here but it won't replace the work that I have to do to improve.

Quite so and like I say, one day soon you'll have it all down. Like anything else, getting started is the hardest part.

Once I get a hold of some rayon, I'm also going to experiment with it and mix it with cotton.

Maybe if I cut a small grove in the posts the juice will flow back onto the wick? Or take a tiny strip of cotton, sit it on top of the post and tuck both ends into the wick below

Just my opinion, but I wouldn't start getting fancy and innovative until you get a bit more experience. In my view, that will just slow you down from learning the basics, which everybody needs first.

As for juice being all over the inside of the deck? That's normal too. Vapor will cause condensation wherever it makes contact and eventually it will form droplets.

You could have had juice still in the base from when you primed it or with enough condensation, some minor amount will probably make it down there too. Especially with the massive airflow channel in that deck. A little bit is nothing to worry about by itself.
================================

lol

Ok i'll simplify the question: why the resistance of my coils measured by the mod hasn't changed when I put a big-... piece of metal on top of them that was touching both?

My main concerns: can I rely on my mod to detect whether the coil is touching the post or the juice cap if attaching metal bits to coils doesn't do anything to the readings. Or am I making an invalid assumption.

Try this. Sample the resistance like normal. Turn the mod off, take the cap off, short the coils and then turn the mod back on.

Or, take the atty off, fire the mod a couple times to let it know there is no atomizer. Wrap a piece of wire around the posts or put a piece of aluminum kitchen foil on there or something to cause a short. THEN put it back on the mod and see what it says.

I'm betting the mod is not resampling the resistance on the fly. I don't think you said you tried to fire it shorted.

EDIT: I don't remember now, but btw if this is a Smok mod, you'll definitely have to do the above. Unless you try to fire it shorted, simply shorting the build won't do anything by itself. You have to tell it it's a different build than it last saw. Either by turning it off and back on with no atomizer, or by firing it with no atomizer.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

But then again I also don't trust "RBA decks."

What's there to distrust? It's just another rebuildable atomizer.

All in all I like hybrid tanks with RBA decks more than RTAs because you can buy several RBA decks, coil and wick them ahead of time, put 'em in a case or baggie and carry a couple around with you just like you would a factory coil. That's why I prefer hybrid tanks to RTAs. Kinda like an RTA with the convenience (sort of) of a clearomizer.

 

[PeterKay]

Good question. I don't have the answer. I think you may be making a valid assumption, I just don't understand why your mod did not detect it as a short, let alone detect a change in resistance.

you got me worried. dual 18650 inside..

 

[PeterKay]

Or, take the atty off, fire the mod a couple times to let it know there is no atomizer. Wrap a piece of wire around the posts or put a piece of aluminum kitchen foil on there or something to cause a short. THEN put it back on the mod and see what it says.

I'm betting the mod is not resampling the resistance on the fly. I don't think you said you tried to fire it shorted.

You were right again. That mod aint a speedy gonzales. Took the atty off, fired the mod a few times. Took a large wood screw and insterted it through the mouthpiece so it touched both the coil and the deck. Put the atty back on the mod. 0.000 ohm, "Atomizer short" upon firing.

No I haven't tried firing it shorted earlier, wasn't sure what the outcome would be.

 

[PeterKay]

I don't remember now, but btw if this is a Smok mod

Smok majesty luxe

 

[gsmit1]

You were right again. That mod aint a speedy gonzales. Took the atty off, fired the mod a few times. Took a large wood screw and insterted it through the mouthpiece so it touched both the coil and the deck. Put the atty back on the mod. 0.000 ohm, "Atomizer short" upon firing.

No I haven't tried firing it shorted earlier, wasn't sure what the outcome would be.

Yeah, if you had tried firing it shorted, it would have told you there was a short. It's when you go to fire it that it knows that the atomizer has changed. Or in this case, that there's a short.

Smok majesty luxe

That's the same Nuvoton chip they put in numerous mods for a couple years there. I have several mods with that chip. In fact a Procolor that uses that chip was my first mod a couple years ago. It's all beat up now, but I still have it and it still works fine I have like 50 other mods now too, but I still use that one.

That's the Big Baby Beast it came with with it's RBA deck inside. That one has velocity style airflow with two airholes, one for each coil.

 

[gsmit1]

That mod aint a speedy gonzales.

Do know that there's nothing wrong with it. That's just the way it works by design. A regulated mod is a mini computer with a small embedded operating system. Some are designed to work differently than others.

Some processors will sample the resistance of the build on the fly. Meaning as soon as something changes. And some do their their sampling when the circuit is closed. Like the Nuvoton chip in the Majesty you have. One way is not necessarily better than the other, and certainly not safer, the result is the same. You just have to know how the one you have is supposed to work.

I've been a computer technician for over 20 years. That probably made all this a bit easier when I got started.

 

[AngeNZ]

I'm also curious how rayon "tastes"- whether I'll like it more than cotton or no in terms of flavour changes.

I could hear a rubbing sound when I was pulling it through. It wasn't moving back and forth easily, but it wasn't too hard either. It's a bit hard for me to judge "resistance" as I've never felt how a properly wicked cotton should slide. But I was able to adjust it after I cut one side without going too crazy.

I tried rayon when I was relatively new to building RTAs. It certainly didn't help matters much, and I wish I had just stuck with cotton for a few months first.

When you are a newer builder, everything takes longer to do. It's just part of the learning curve.

When you wick with rayon, you need to stuff a lot more through a coil, then spend time combing and thinning the ends. You then need to prime it with juice, and pulse it a few times with the cap off, to get rid of the rayon taste.

With cotton, you stuff a bit less through the coil, cut the tails, poke them a bit, prime your wick, and you are done.

It's completely up to you, what wicking material you choose to use - but for me, I wish I had just used cotton, and got good at wicking with it for a few months, before trying rayon.

With regards to troubles with your coils:

a short is pretty easy to see, the mod tells you, packs a sad, and won't fire.

When you install different dual coils into the RBA deck, you will want to watch out for a loose leg. This shows up by the resistance jumping when you check it and fire the build on a mod.

 

[PeterKay]

Thanks for all the help again. 6 days later, wick changed once (liquid started tasting funny, wick was getting dirty) and coils cleaned- not a single leak

I also had a new tank delivered, grabbed a bargain- berserker mini mtl rta, i'll be getting it started tomorrow

How often do you guys rewick due to wick getting too dirty? I know it depends on the liquid, mine are from lighter to sort of medium in color. I do about 400-500 puffs a day

 

[gsmit1]

Thanks for all the help again. 6 days later, wick changed once (liquid started tasting funny, wick was getting dirty) and coils cleaned- not a single leak

I also had a new tank delivered, grabbed a bargain- berserker mini mtl rta, i'll be getting it started tomorrow

How often do you guys rewick due to wick getting too dirty? I know it depends on the liquid, mine are from lighter to sort of medium in color. I do about 400-500 puffs a day

You rewick it when you don't like the vape anymore There's no way to codify hard and fast rules for when to change your wicking.

Do know that the Berserker Mini is a completely different style of atomizer than the Prince/RBA. The broad principles are the same, but one is a wide open cloud chaser that works well with lower resistance builds and one...
.
.
...is not

 

[PeterKay]

You rewick it when you don't like the vape anymore There's no way to codify hard and fast rules for when to change your wicking.

Do know that the Berserker Mini is a completely different style of atomizer than the Prince/RBA. The broad principles are the same, but one is a wide open cloud chaser that works well with lower resistance builds and one...
.
.
...is not

Yes, I'm fully aware. I still like to do MTL as well as DL, but my innokin endura t22 is getting a bit old and boring after 3 years- I felt like making a slightly more ambitious upgrade