Smok tfv4 and IPV D2, what am i doing wrong?

[Veeru PV]

Hey vapers,
I am all new to this vaping thing, and still trying to get my head around it.
I recently purchased an ipv d2 and a smok tfv4, i am not even sure now if these two can get along together.

The wicks seem to burn way too fast, i have to change it in half an hour. Never had this issue when i was on my kangertech.

• I am on a single coil RBA
• I have tried different widths of cotton all with same result
• Used kanthal 24 and 26, still same
• tried coil wraps ranging from 6 to 10
• Wattage ranging from 7 to 53 on the ipv d2.
• My juices are not too sweet, so i don't think its because of caramelizing. Even if it is, it does'nt make sense how fast the wick burns.
• The wick kind-of breaks into half, indicating too much heat?

At some point, after using a little while, the juice changes into darker color and probably thicker, and starts to leak at the bottom. I am totally lost at how to get this tfv4 to work nicely.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

Ok so I guess I'm going to say this again. There is a possibility the mod is underpowered, or the coil is of too high ohms. I've gotten this a bit and it riddled me with problems for a bit. My Ni200 wires paired with my iStick TC40w tended to get black and gunky. Originally when I had this problem, I thought the coil had be burnt through, but that wasn't the case. Upon closer inspection, the coils had this black gunk on them and came off when I took the wicking out of the coils. Someone on here or somewhere told me that the black gunk is due to the coil not reaching a high enough temperature to fully vaporize the ejuice. Switching between different PG/VG ratio juices did not solve the problem. The problem with mine was I needed to figure out a way to get the coil hot enough to vaporize the juice correctly and then all was fine after that.

Here is something you can try in the meantime to figure out if you need a high power mod or not. Try making a coil with about 0.4 to 0.5 ohms. With 24 gauge, this would be 6 and a half wraps around a 2mm whatever. With 26 gauge, that would leave you with 4 and a half wraps. I'd suggest the 24 gauge build since it should work much better in theory. Do a test fire at the full 75 watts (without juice and no tank on,) and see if the coil fires up immediately.

 

[crxess]

Sounds like you have minimal knowledge of building.
No mention of coil size, ohm readings, e-liquid configuration.
No mention of Wire type.
Attempting some or other build at 7w to 53w - extreme variance.

For this Deck, 26g would work better
Single Deck, maybe 3mm diameter
Build resistance will play into power requirements as will wick and e-liquid density.

Mod has plenty of power for the Single coil deck or even the dual and Clapton decks.
It would be under powered with the factory multi-coil heads.

This may assist:

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

Sounds like you have minimal knowledge of building.
No mention of coil size, ohm readings, e-liquid configuration.
No mention of Wire type.
Attempting some or other build at 7w to 53w - extreme variance.

For this Deck, 26g would work better
Single Deck, maybe 3mm diameter
Build resistance will play into power requirements as will wick and e-liquid density.

Mod has plenty of power for the Single coil deck or even the dual and Clapton decks.
It would be under powered with the factory multi-coil heads.

This may assist:

I really don't know who your post was aimed to so I guess I'll reply to my previously said statement.

The reason I said 24 gauge (kanthal) is better than 26 gauge kanthal, is because it will allow for more surface area at the given power range. 26 gauge will allow about 4-5 wraps before reaching 0.5 ohms. Let's keep in mind that higher gauge wires have a higher resistance per inch/foot/whatever. 24 gauge will allow you more surface area, as well as keep the vape quite a bit cooler as it enters your lungs. However, let us know if you've found anything that's worked well for you.

 

[Veeru PV]

@crxess
Sure, like i mentioned am new to the whole thing. So some terms are alien to me, i put my question to the best of my knowledge. I shall go through the video and try to add your suggestions to my existing efforts.

@Sm0keydaBear
I have been trying a lot of variations. Even a while ago. i have tried 24g with 6 wraps and with two drags its already a dry hit. The coil seems to burn perfectly when i did a test fire. The first two drags are awesome and thats' the end of it.

Current setting
24g with 6 wraps
Firing at 53.0 wa, 0.62Ohms, 6.79 V (this is the reading on my ipv d2)

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

@crxess
Sure, like i mentioned am new to the whole thing. So some terms are alien to me, i put my question to the best of my knowledge. I shall go through the video and try to add your suggestions to my existing efforts.

@Sm0keydaBear
I have been trying a lot of variations. Even a while ago. i have tried 24g with 6 wraps and with two drags its already a dry hit. The coil seems to burn perfectly when i did a test fire. The first two drags are awesome and thats' the end of it.

Current setting
24g with 6 wraps
Firing at 53.0 wa, 0.62Ohms, 6.79 V (this is the reading on my ipv d2)

Ok so we know that the coil is essentially not the problem because it fires like supposed to. What seems to be the case here is that the juice is not getting to the coil and that needs to be solved. With the wicking, you should try to set the wicking on top of the deck just above the juice channels. If you've already tried that, try the opposite and place the wicking to the bottom of the juice well, being careful that it does not entirely clog up the juice channels. I've had this problem with very high VG juices, I mean 95% VG, or around 90% VG. Then again, I'm using a Tobeco Orchid V3 and it has 4 juice wells, but the juice wells on the TFV4 look like they equal if not more than the Tobeco Orchid's juice channels.

EDIT: With the wicking setting on top of the deck, I mean if you've ever seen someone build the Kayfun, people like to take the top section off of the chimney, raise the cotton through the top of the chimney THEN cut the wicking material. Once cut, they place the wicking down on top of the juice channels being careful to not push them into the juice channels and let them set right above it without being compressed.

 

[Veeru PV]

@Sm0keydaBear
At this point am not sure how to do it, but i will try to look up and work on it. And yes, the coil seems to burn good(as far as i can see it); like you said, may be i need to get the wicking right. I have followed a lot of tutorials and all seemed the same. But i wont' give up yet ha ha
Vaping is more complicated than i assumed before i started it ha ha. I was happy with my kangertech, and an upgrade to this set got me into trouble. I have been wasting so much liquid.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

@Sm0keydaBear
At this point am not sure how to do it, but i will try to look up and work on it. And yes, the coil seems to burn good(as far as i can see it); like you said, may be i need to get the wicking right. I have followed a lot of tutorials and all seemed the same. But i wont' give up yet ha ha
Vaping is more complicated than i assumed before i started it ha ha. I was happy with my kangertech, and an upgrade to this set got me into trouble. I have been wasting so much liquid.

Yes I suppose that if the wicking isn't getting juice to it, you may need to place it down into the juice wells so that the juice can travel directly to the coil. Placing the wicking on top of the deck kind of works as gravity feed, as the juice is higher than the deck and gravity will push the juice up onto the deck. So however way you look at it, you should be getting constant wicking as long as the juice channel is not blocked.

 

[Veeru PV]

@somkeybear
I have followed some tutorials online, where they suggested cutting the wick at a 45 degree angle and place the pointy part into the well. But that does'nt go all the way down into the well. So you are suggesting, make the wick long enough to travel all the way down?

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

@somkeybear
I have followed some tutorials online, where they suggested cutting the wick at a 45 degree angle and place the pointy part into the well. But that does'nt go all the way down into the well. So you are suggesting, make the wick long enough to travel all the way down?

If you've tried that already, then the only other choice would be to place it directly at the bottom of the juice well. However, just like the videos you seen showing you how to do it, if you have too much wicking inside the juice well, it will obstruct the juice flow to the coil (theoretically.) In any case, if you catch a dry burn on any tank, there's only two causes. One being you're running at too many watts for the tanks design to be able to handle, or your wicking it incorrectly. In this case, I'd probably say that the wicking is incorrect due to the fact the juice wells are so large, there should barely be a way for the juice to not be there.

First and foremost, you should let us know how you've tried wicking it already, so we can do an analysis of what can be done, if you could.

 

[Veeru PV]

@somkeybear
Sure, the next time i wick (at work now), i will upload a pic, that might help you see what i am trying to do wrong. May be in a couple of hours.
Thanks a lot!!

 

[Veeru PV]

Here is the coil

 

[Veeru PV]

 

[Veeru PV]

Attached images, the best i could
Using kanthal 26(just purchased some)
Tried 5 wraps and 6 wraps, ok at first, but soon i get the burnt hit

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

Ok you might want to try putting the legs of the wicking to lay on top of the side portion of the deck. Not sure if it will even do anything, but picture a big "Z" and that is how you would want to try wicking it by laying the tails on the deck.

 

[Veeru PV]

Do you mean, the cotton should spread over the deck?
On the other hand, anything wrong with the way i make the coil and the settings on the mod?

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Why is your juice blue?
Looks like it has coloring added, IMO could be something in the colorant causing the burning & premature wick failure problems.

There is no way I would vape anything with coloring added, nope not even a little.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

Do you mean, the cotton should spread over the deck?
On the other hand, anything wrong with the way i make the coil and the settings on the mod?

I mean just having the cotton sit on top of the juice wells, spreading across the deck and the wick should be in a shape like a "Z". Seeing as how it looks like you've wicked it correctly already and that doesn't seem to be working, this wicking method is probably the only other thing you can try.

EDIT: Your coil looks fine, there should be no problems there.

 

[Wruff]

Yeah, blue juice is a red flag. It's got food coloring in it.

And the TFv4 is no starter tank, that's for sure. I might suggest picking up a kanger subtank for starters, and then get back to the TFv4 after you've cut your teeth a while building the kanger subtank.
Who the heck recommended the TFv4 as your very first personal vape? If someone did so then that was very irresponsible of them.

That being said, keep at it on that tank and you'll eventually figure it out. I would again though recommend you try something more user friendly to begin on.

I've got a TFv4 (vaping it right now), but they can be very tricky for someone who's not played around with tanks/rta's before. It's more of a next level tank, and not a starter tank.

 

[mountainbikermark]

When you fire it with no wick onboard does it turn red in the center first then spread outward? If so does it spread evenly on both sides? Might be my eyes but the coil looks unevenly spaced between wraps on the left side in the photo, which could be giving you hot spots, thus premature dry hits and burning.
It might be my eyes though is why I ask. I still struggle with getting hot spots in my coils

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