Smoke-E Mountain Vanilla

[Human Exhaust]

Hey ECF

So I went into my local shop and bought my first mechanical mod.



It's a Vanilla from smok-E Mountain Mech. I got it with a 3 post patriot RDA and the guy that built it for me made it a .4 ohm build. Fires like a champ but I am having battery issues. I got it with a Efest IMR 18650 3.7v 2000mAh battery and the trustfire TR 01 charger. After reading so many posts on the charger, I now know it's a POS and have been shopping for a new one but this is what I have for now.

So fully charged batteries read at 3.57 volts with my multimeter, I've checked voltage after a full charge multiple times and that is the highest number I get. My issue is that the battery dies on me too quickly. After a nice solid vape I check the voltage on the battery and it goes down to 3.54 volts. After about 5 solid vapes it is down to 3.44 volts. At about 10 vapes I'm reading 3.27 volts. I can't imagine this is operating correctly because I would need like 100 batteries to last me the day.

I'm brand new to mech mods but I have a pretty quick learning curse (or at least I'd like to think so). The reason why I even got the multimeter out was because my brand new mod and battery stopped producing vape after about 5-10 minutes of use. Happened 3 times and I had to wait about 8 hrs each time to charge the battery...it got old really fast. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[SonHouse]

You should be getting 4.2-4.3 after the charge. But it should also be firing down to about 3.2 volts. Those batteries are junk.

 

[SonHouse]

And to be clearer, the defeat batteries are generally good but they should last much longer and charge higher. You also shouldn't be playing with sub ohm builds. Sounds to me like you're way overdrawing those batteries but I'm not an expert in sub ohm builds. Build something around an ohm and see what it performs like. If those batteries are good and you're pulling that much current, it could blow up in your face. You're playing in a dangerous area without the knowledge to guide you.

 

[Technonut]

Dispose of that battery in the proper manner immediately, and get at least two good AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh batteries to rotate. I also recommend a Pila IBC charger...


EDIT: I can't believe how irresponsible some vendors are by selling and setting up sub-ohm coil devices with batteries, and cheap chargers to a beginner, which are not suited for that type of vaping...

Don't be fooled by inflated mAh ratings.. The AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh is what you need, and delivers appropriate amperage. If I were you, I would start by learning to build your own coils, know how to check the ohms before you even put the atty on a device, and start out at 1.0 ohms (ideally higher, like 1.2) on the coil. As you get comfortable with what you're doing, you can always go lower.

This sub-ohm craze is going to get someone hurt eventually...

 

[SonHouse]

Dispose of that battery in the proper manner immediately, and get at least two good AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh batteries to rotate. I also recommend a Pila IBC charger...


EDIT: I can't believe how irresponsible some vendors are by selling and setting up sub-ohm coil devices with batteries, and cheap chargers to a beginner, which are not suited for that type of vaping...

Don't be fooled by inflated mAh ratings.. The AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh is what you need, and delivers appropriate amperage. If I were you, I would start by learning to build your own coils, know how to check the ohms before you even put the atty on a device, and start out at 1.0 ohms (ideally higher, like 1.2) on the coil. As you get comfortable with what you're doing, you can always go lower.

This sub-ohm craze is going to get someone hurt eventually...

I agree completely! Sub ohm vaping is a very advanced area and while it has its adherents, you need a lot of knowledge to do it safely. OP, please wait until you've had time to read and acquire that knowledge.

 

[Human Exhaust]

Yea, kaboom is not my end goal for vaping. What is the BEST IMR and charger that I can buy. I've read great reviews for the PILA and XTAR and that's what I am leaning towards. Also any suggestions for something I can go pick up locally while I wait on my high end charger and battery?

The idea of not being able to use my new mod saddens me.

 

[Technonut]

The Pila is highly regarded, and what I've been using for years... You will also need a multimeter to check the resistance of your coils, or one of the stand-alone ohm testers... like this one, but not in-stock ATM...

Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter

I don't know about what's available to you locally regarding batteries.. Unless you can find AW's, or a trusted brand, confirmed high amperage IMR high drain battery.. Not really many around.. It's best to wait if you plan on running the coil you have in there now.. As I said, I would learn to rebuild your coil, go with higher ohms, and try that for awhile before moving down to a lower sub-ohm coil like you have in there now...

Just my

EDIT: I just noticed you have a multimeter.. Do you know how to check the ohms on your coil with it?


Some trusted battery vendors:


http://www.rtdvapor.com/

http://www.orbtronic.com/

 

[Human Exhaust]

I decided to go with the XTAR VP1 since it has a built in volt meter. Now for batteries:

Do i go with:
1.) XTAR 18650 3100mAh Protected Button Top
2.) Panasonic Hybrid/IMR CGR18650CH 2250mAh flat top
3.) Panosonic Hybrid/IMR CGR18650CH 2250mAh protected button top
4.) Or is the AW the best brand for vaping?

 

[Human Exhaust]

The Pila is highly regarded, and what I've been using for years... You will also need a multimeter to check the resistance of your coils, or one of the stand-alone ohm testers... like this one, but not in-stock ATM...

Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter

I don't know about what's available to you locally regarding batteries.. Unless you can find AW's, or a trusted brand, confirmed high amperage IMR high drain battery.. Not really many around.. It's best to wait if you plan on running the coil you have in there now.. As I said, I would learn to rebuild your coil, go with higher ohms, and try that for awhile before moving down to a lower sub-ohm coil like you have in there now...

Just my

EDIT: I just noticed you have a multimeter.. Do you know how to check the ohms on your coil with it?


Some trusted battery vendors:


RTD Vapor AW Batteries

Batteries-Chargers-Flashlights-Only The Best

Yes. black to thread, red to post. Right?

I .4 off the build I have on the three post patriot atomizer.

It's a dual coil build with about 3/4 wraps on each. How many wraps should I do to get to a 1.5 resistance?

 

[SonHouse]

I decided to go with the XTAR VP1 since it has a built in volt meter. Now for batteries:

Do i go with:
1.) XTAR 18650 3100mAh Protected Button Top
2.) Panasonic Hybrid/IMR CGR18650CH 2250mAh flat top
3.) Panosonic Hybrid/IMR CGR18650CH 2250mAh protected button top
4.) Or is the AW the best brand for vaping?

The Xtar kicks ...., I have one. Great stuff. You can still use your new toy, just use a higher resistance. I'd get these, they'll stand up to a 10 amp draw. This place is out of stock but I'm on my phone and can't search around.
NCR18650PD High Drain Panasonic 18650 2900 mAh Li-ion Battery free shipping from Florida

 

[Human Exhaust]

The Xtar kicks ...., I have one. Great stuff. You can still use your new toy, just use a higher resistance. I'd get these, they'll stand up to a 10 amp draw. This place is out of stock but I'm on my phone and can't search around.
NCR18650PD High Drain Panasonic 18650 2900 mAh Li-ion Battery free shipping from Florida

I thought IMR was the way to go. Where can I read up on NCR batteries as it relates to vaping?

 

[Baditude]

I'll completely agree with the above posters. Vendors who sell pre-made sub ohm RBAs to vapors who have never used one before is irresponsible and borders on negligence. They should know better and are either only in it for a quick buck or are as equally ignorant as the customer. Knowing this, do you really want to deal with this vendor?

The Pila and Xtar VP1 are both top-of-the-line chargers and you won't go wrong buying either one. For batteries, I'd go with the tried-and-true red AW IMR 1600 mAh (not the 2000 mAh) batteries. You need the high drain ability of an IMR battery, and not a protected battery.

For sub ohm vaping, you'll need an IMR battery designed to give out high amperage of at least 20 amps, of which there are only a few batteries capable of doing that. The 1600 mAh AW IMR and the 1500 mAh MNKE IMR can both provide 20 amps or more.

AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh

Batteries : MNKE IMR 18650

I'll also echo the suggestions to practice making coils in the 1.0 - 2.0 ohm range until you've gotten plenty of experience with RBAs. Sub ohm is NOT for beginners. Just accidentally nudging a coil by touching it when removing/replacing the RBA top cap can change its resistance by 0.5 ohm or more and result in shorting out your mod or battery...or worse.

I've made a blog article "Advice and Tips for Vapors Looking for Their First RBA" which has a lot of resource information on multimeters, battery and mod safety, and some tutorial videos on wick and coils building. Spend some time learning this stuff front to back. And always practice safe vaping. Remember that we got into vaping as a safe alternative to smoking, not because vaping has become a sport for some who are chasing for the biggest clouds available.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-tips-vapors-looking-try-their-first-rba.html

 

[Human Exhaust]

This is my new wrap. I went from 3 wraps to 7 and it only increased my resistance from .4 to .7

Am i doing something wrong? Im using 28 ga kanthal and 3mm silica wick.

 

[SonHouse]

Why the 10 amp number is important is that as you drop the resistance, the amount of current flowing shoots up. In the caseThat's what caused the battery to fail. The batteries above are the ones which can dish out the most current and keep doing it.

 

[Baditude]

I thought IMR was the way to go. Where can I read up on NCR batteries as it relates to vaping?

" http:// taste your juice.com/wordpress/battery-information/ " - Copy & paste this address into your browser window. (ECF has a glitch to direct linking it.) Remove the spaces. Below is most of this article:



"A LITTLE ON BATTERY SAFETY by PBusardo.
Difference in batteries:

In the electronic cigarette “mod” world there are two main types of batteries. ICR and IMR.

• ICR = LiCoO2 (typical Li-ion) [typical protected batteries - Baditude]

• IMR = LiMn [also called "high drain" and "unprotected" batteries - Baditude]
  

It is generally accepted that IMR batteries use a safer chemistry than ICRs which is why ICRs can be purchased with and without protection circuits.

IMRs can support higher discharge rates than ICRs and are a better choice for lower resistance coils and mechanical devices.

Although some ICRs have increased storage capacity (mAh) they may not always be able to deliver the amps required to power your device. For example, this is why ProVape recommends IMR type batteries.

So if you want to be safe what should you do? Here are some suggestions…

• First, use any electronic cigarette or device AT YOUR OWN RISK!

• Label/date your batteries so you know how long they’ve been in-use. If they’re still going after a year, toss them unless you have the ability to check their status.

• Buy your batteries from reputable venders. I’ve been taken by the inflated mAh ratings seen on some “Ebay Offerings”. There are many good battery vendors out there. I get many of mine from RTD Vapor.

• If you are using a protected device you should be ok with any battery selection. If not, use a safer chemistry IMR or “hybrid” and/or a mod fuse such as the 2 Cents For Safety fuse. http://www.thevapesafe.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=19&Itemid=163 [Link supplied by Baditude]

• Get a QUALITY intelligent charger. The Xtars or Intellichargers both good choices.

• Do no over discharge your battery. When you’re battery approaches 3.3 volts, it’s time to charge.

• Do not carry loose batteries. Batteries thrown in a purse or pocket could find metal and short. For example… keys! Exposed batteries have the potential to short when not properly protected.

• Try not to stack, but if you MUST… 1) use protected batteries (unless your device doesn’t like protected batteries then see the following points), 2) use a fuse such as the 2 Cents For Safety if your device doesn’t have built in protection, 3) use a like pair, 4) your like pair should have been purchased at the same time… they are married. They like to be together and spend all their time together. So they want to be discharged (in the device) and charged (on the charger) together. Never stack unlike batteries, or like batteries of unknown condition.

If you’re into those ultra low resistance coils (which I don’t recommend BTW – I personally believe .8 ohms and up should be PLENTY good enough) KNOW YOUR BATTERY!!! Be sure that the battery is capable and rated to generate the amount of amps required by your setup! For example:

• Setup 1 = 1 ohm coil with a loaded voltage of 4.0V (just an example). Using Ohms law, Amps = Voltage/Resistance = 4 Amp Draw. Easy for most batteries!

• Setup 2 = .3 ohm coil (which I DO NOT recommend) with a loaded voltage of 4.0V (again, just an example). Using Ohms law, Amps = Voltage/Resistance = 13.3 Amp Draw. Can your battery support that?

A NOTE ABOUT C-RATINGS
The C-Rating of the battery defines the maximum draw (in amps) that the battery is capable of. To calculate the max amp draw you need the C-Rating and the mAh of the battery. For example a 2000 mAh battery rated at 10C would be:

Max Amp Draw = (mAh / 1000) * C-Rating

(2000 / 1000) * 10 = 20 Amp Max Draw

Note: Running your batteries at their C-Rating will decrease the overall life of the battery.

The C-Rating also indicates the amount of time the battery can support that discharge rate. A 1 C battery can support the calculated draw continuously for 1 hour. 2 C would be 1/2 of an hour. 10C would be 1/10 of an hour."

 

[SonHouse]

Phil comes through again! Batitude's quoted article is right on the money. I would do a search on sub ohm vaping on this forum and start reading. That should get you everything you need to know and get you started nicely! I would use a thinner Kanthal than what you're using, say a 32 or so. Probably worth checking around to see if you can find experiences of folks using 30 with your equipment also. Keep the 28, it'll come in handy soon enough.

 

[ChristopherJamesTCB]

I wanna hear about your Vanilla! I just bought one seconds ago and I'm very excited. Does anyone else know anythkng about these? Seems like an awesome mod for the price.

 

[dr g]

I'd return that battery and charger and get your money back. The charger is broken and the battery is not good enough for .4 ohms. Test of Efest IMR18650 2000mAh (red)

 

[Human Exhaust]

I'd return that battery and charger and get your money back. The charger is broken and the battery is not good enough for .4 ohms. Test of Efest IMR18650 2000mAh (red)

I just ordered some more AW batteries to go with the new XTAR which is AWESOME.
It's amazing that I was able to follow your link (not completely but enough to get your point). 2 weeks ago i would've just closed the window about two lines in.

 

[Human Exhaust]

Baditude, thanks for all the links. I think I'm getting the hang of this. I know I still have a lot to learn but at least I know what safety measures I need to take.