Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

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mgmrick

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Wouldn't the button still light up though?

Seems like there is a bug in the chip set for this to be happening or possibly a bad connection at the spring or positive tit??

No....that is the way the new version is made....

When inserting batteries the lcd screen does light up and a bunch of numbers scroll. You need to get to menu 6 to turn it back on
 

fuzzione

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I like mine at 2.8-3.2 ohm. Right now I CAN NOT recommend this GT-US at all. This thing is DIFFICULT !!!!!! User friendly my A*5 !!!!!! I can't taste anything remotely close to my juice, the ohms keep jumping from 1.9 - 3.0 ohms, the draw is no different than taking a drag off a wide open straw, NO BACK PRESSURE AT ALL , and I like a airy draw, but this is crazy. Very little vapor production. EPIC FAIL so far for me. My DID R.A. will be here tomorrow I think, if it's the same as this Im running them over in my new Cadi CTS-V coupe till they look like they perform. Yes I AM PI*5%#* !!!!!!!! OFF to say the least !!!!

You and me both buddy :)

Got my DID today and spent a good part of the day trying to get it to work. I'm still stuck. I think it's certainly a learning curve and I got some good advice in the DID forum but kept blowing up my coils. I've actually now used ALL the supplied resistance wire so I can't have at it again until I get more. Here's what I learned so far about the rebuildables:

You MUST keep glowing the mesh red with a very high propane / butane flame then dunk in water...repeat more times than you think is necessary. This was my first mistake. I had to repeat this process about 7 times (not 2-3 times like the vids show). Then, I did 3 burns with PG juice to build up additional layers. You have got to get the mesh wick absolutely BLACK. If there's even a touch of brown in it there is insufficient oxidization and it will short.

The length of the wire between the coil and posts must be as short as possible so position the wick accordingly and pull tight (but not too tight).

They are fiddly things but I'm determined to make this work. It will look great on the SS vmax as it shares the identical diameter.

Right now however, I'm as happy as you are ;)
 

kurtus

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No....that is the way the new version is made....

When inserting batteries the lcd screen does light up and a bunch of numbers scroll. You need to get to menu 6 to turn it back on

Can you clarify a bit cause I think I'm going to get the new ss version, your saying when you first plug the batts in it the screen flashes numbers across then shuts down and does absolutely nothing until you press the button 3x scroll to menu 6 which is led on then the unit is functional? Once you initiate it then you can go back into the menu 6 option, turn the led off, now the screen is off but the button will just light up after this step? I was asking because I though the button would still light and it was just the default to have only the screen off when reseting with new batteries. Hope this isn't too confusing lol and thx
 

kurtus

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Have you guys watched scotts (igetcha69) vids on the way he does his genesis style atty's, he makes it look really easy though he likes to run around 1.5-2ohms on his setups. Here is the DID setup he did and it looks rather easy, can't remember though if he shows in this video though but he was heating the kanthal wire with bic till it started glowing to make it less springy too.


Edit: nevermind looks like you watched it already
 
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mgmrick

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Can you clarify a bit cause I think I'm going to get the new ss version, your saying when you first plug the batts in it the screen flashes numbers across then shuts down and does absolutely nothing until you press the button 3x scroll to menu 6 which is led on then the unit is functional? Once you initiate it then you can go back into the menu 6 option, turn the led off, now the screen is off but the button will just light up after this step? I was asking because I though the button would still light and it was just the default to have only the screen off when reseting with new batteries. Hope this isn't too confusing lol and thx

If I read that right I think that is exactly how it works. I had to press the button a few times to get the menu screen to pop up
 

VAPNJ350

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Can you clarify a bit cause I think I'm going to get the new ss version, your saying when you first plug the batts in it the screen flashes numbers across then shuts down and does absolutely nothing until you press the button 3x scroll to menu 6 which is led on then the unit is functional? Once you initiate it then you can go back into the menu 6 option, turn the led off, now the screen is off but the button will just light up after this step? I was asking because I though the button would still light and it was just the default to have only the screen off when reseting with new batteries. Hope this isn't too confusing lol and thx



When you switch batteries in a V2 unit it displays 123,456,789...then the screen goes black. The red 3 digit number display is set to off automatically but the unit is ready to vape, all you need to do is go to #6 and turn on the red display. The blue led is permanently on now in the new versions.
 

fuzzione

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Have you guys watched scotts (igetcha69) vids on the way he does his genesis style atty's, he makes it look really easy though he likes to run around 1.5-2ohms on his setups. Here is the DID setup he did and it looks rather easy, can't remember though if he shows in this video though but he was heating the kanthal wire with bic till it started glowing to make it less springy too.


Edit: nevermind looks like you watched it already

Let me know if you still think so next week ;)

Watched and rewatched the vids; had the procedure memorized. My set up look good. Clean, tidy and it did actually function for a little while. Then the coil blew again. Was only pushing 3v at 1.8 resistance. Tried an extra wrap getting 2.0 ohms...still blew. It always burned out between the post connection and top part of the coil.
 

kurtus

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The 3 volt ver2 models turn lcd screen off when changing batteries. It also defaults to 3 volts so it may seem like its not working. The lcd screen needs to be turned on

does it still vape and just the lcd screen is off? On the ver2 when you change batteries the lcd screen is turned off

No....that is the way the new version is made....

When inserting batteries the lcd screen does light up and a bunch of numbers scroll. You need to get to menu 6 to turn it back on

If I read that right I think that is exactly how it works. I had to press the button a few times to get the menu screen to pop up

Sorry if this is confusing, basically based on what you posted I am trying to point out that even if the batts where just installed and the screen is off the button should still be lighting up, if it is not then it is not firing but I don't own one so I couldn't stand behind that without finding out the facts first. I am aware that the menu 6 shuts the led screen off but it seemed strange that when inserting the batts for the first time the button would not light up. If nothing is lighting up the unit is not seeing power and there is a number of issues that could be going on but the screen off is not one of them. Hope thats more clear as to what I am trying to get across.
 

buffaloguy

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Vapn thanks for the long post explaning the features and the data you ran. Looks like Ill be getting a vmax instead of the next LT. Im sold. Gotta get one of the ultrifire 188's too tho I think. SuperT looks like the best bet there. I know I can get it cheaper from china but the $2-5 bucks Ill save isnt worth the extra shipping time.

Im actually interested to try the vmax out on some of the phoenix bottom coils I have. the phoenix's work flawlessly with decent flavor. Never got a chance to try em on the LT.

Now the new rebuilt vivi nova I have coming. That should work great, and look awesome on a chrome vmax. Caveat, Im waiting on higher ohm atty heads to come out with the changeable atty stardusts to swap those attys into the nova tank. The stardust ones go up to 4ohms so better for VV. Plus the nova has metal tubes. Try to crack those puppies. I think not.

Those and some dual coil carts to use now and then and Ill be all set for the vmax.
 

kurtus

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Let me know if you still think so next week ;)

Watched and rewatched the vids; had the procedure memorized. My set up look good. Clean, tidy and it did actually function for a little while. Then the coil blew again. Was only pushing 3v at 1.8 resistance. Tried an extra wrap getting 2.0 ohms...still blew. It always burned out between the post connection and top part of the coil.

Well now you have me concerned...........:facepalm:
 

VAPNJ350

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Vapn thanks for the long post explaning the features and the data you ran. Looks like Ill be getting a vmax instead of the next LT. Im sold. Gotta get one of the ultrifire 188's too tho I think. SuperT looks like the best bet there. I know I can get it cheaper from china but the $2-5 bucks Ill save isnt worth the extra shipping time.

Im actually interested to try the vmax out on some of the phoenix bottom coils I have. the phoenix's work flawlessly with decent flavor. Never got a chance to try em on the LT.

Now the new rebuilt vivi nova I have coming. That should work great, and look awesome on a chrome vmax. Caveat, Im waiting on higher ohm atty heads to come out with the changeable atty stardusts to swap those attys into the nova tank. The stardust ones go up to 4ohms so better for VV. Plus the nova has metal tubes. Try to crack those puppies. I think not.

Those and some dual coil carts to use now and then and Ill be all set for the vmax.


Shoot out a link for those Phoenix bottom coils, you've struck my curiosity. And just remember to always start at 3 volts with Anything you put on top, then go up slowly. I've got the stone V2 but the nove vivi looked pretty cool and may be a future purchase after you tell me how they work. I DO NOT care for the stardust, I have like 6 -10 of those untouched. They muted the flavor of my juices so much I couldn't stand em.
 

Ravenscroft

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Let me know if you still think so next week ;)

Watched and rewatched the vids; had the procedure memorized. My set up look good. Clean, tidy and it did actually function for a little while. Then the coil blew again. Was only pushing 3v at 1.8 resistance. Tried an extra wrap getting 2.0 ohms...still blew. It always burned out between the post connection and top part of the coil.

You could try firing it up on another device as the high spikes on the VMax maybe part of the cause. I had that happen on a Line and I am pretty well versed in making coils etc. I put it on a Buzz Pro and let it settle in a bit and then it was ok on the Beast.

I find lower voltages are some times needed for a little while if there are any hot spots and doing wet burns helps a lot. Just keep putting some juice on the wick and coil etc and fire it up without the cap on and observe.

Sometimes I just can't get the Beast to go low enough with these Genisis problems but usually it is ok.

RC
 

kurtus

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You could try firing it up on another device as the high spikes on the VMax maybe part of the cause. I had that happen on a Line and I am pretty well versed in making coils etc. I put it on a Buzz Pro and let it settle in a bit and then it was ok on the Beast.

I find lower voltages are some times needed for a little while if there are any hot spots and doing wet burns helps a lot. Just keep putting some juice on the wick and coil etc and fire it up without the cap on and observe.

Sometimes I just can't get the Beast to go low enough with these Genisis problems but usually it is ok.

RC
hmm......all the more reason for me to get that slightly tamed down ss v2:rickroll: good thing I still own a lt...might actually get some love again lol
 
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buffaloguy

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I personally distaste stardusts myself. Nothing but having to roll a tank to keep wicks wet, then flooding the tube constantly, with coils that are always way over their ohms rating. No thanks. I got five or six in a box someplace.

The phoenix is a bottom coil in 1.5ml and 3ml sizes. I got both in 510. It comes in 510 and 808 connections. They also have a top coil but I have not tried those yet. Conceiveably they would be a much warmer vape. Heres the full list of 510: GotVapes PHOENiX™ 510 BC-TC : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more

Note, they must be filled upside down with a syringe (they include one) to completely full. I didnt do this on the 3ml version and it was a bit wonky. A clean and full fill solved it. I do prefer the 1.5ml versions tho.

I got them thru GV. They also have the new Vivi's. Version 2.5 they are calling them. I had the first production run but they were a mess. They have been apparently totally redesigned. I already have metal tubes in metallic purple and metallic red waiting. I also use a stainless drip tip on top to match the top and bottom caps. Looks nice and they are crazy durable. Bonus, the atty heads ARE TOTALLY rebuildable. If you are into doing that then the three heads that come with the tank are prolly the last u will neex to buy for a long while. The design really is ingenious. Wicks come long too so you can trim em if you want to. Dont lnow why anyone would. People say for better wicking... I say fix your juice, not your equipment. Long wicks in clearos work like a dream for me and I diy 100% VG, sans the flavorings I use. (and yeah, Ive become a pretty damn good diy juice maker).

Id say just buy a vivi, they arent that expensive but Ill have mine in a day or two and can report back. Vivi's are here and atm no one else has the newest version but GV. GotVapes Vision ViVi Nova™ V2.5 : GotVapes.com, E-cigarette Supplies - Atomizers Cartomizers Mods Juice and more

Sorry, should clarify... the 1.5ml phoenix is 510. The 3ml is ego, so youll need a 510 to ego adapter.
 
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kurtus

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Got up today and unscrewed the end cap, then screwed it back in and it came on ????


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I'd try cleaning up the end cap and the spring to ensure your getting a good connection, seems like this is where the problem may be to me. Maybe use some steel wool down inside the cap and on the flats of the spring and see if it goes away perminantly
 

fuzzione

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You could try firing it up on another device as the high spikes on the VMax maybe part of the cause. I had that happen on a Line and I am pretty well versed in making coils etc. I put it on a Buzz Pro and let it settle in a bit and then it was ok on the Beast.

I find lower voltages are some times needed for a little while if there are any hot spots and doing wet burns helps a lot. Just keep putting some juice on the wick and coil etc and fire it up without the cap on and observe.

Sometimes I just can't get the Beast to go low enough with these Genisis problems but usually it is ok.

RC

I actually considered this, together with the possibility that Nichrome was substituted for Kanthal, the former being a little more prone to burnouts. Thanks for the sound advice; once I get more wire I'll try it on my iTaSTE which is quite tame in comparison.

I observed the cap off wet burns as suggested and again, at one point I thought I had it, but after about an hour....poof.
 
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