Some homemade attys and genesis

[michal.jansto]

raidy :

Please oxidation as fencing? I still make inroads.
The resistance varies according to preheat. I still falls below 2 ohms.

 

[raidy]

raidy :

Please oxidation as fencing? I still make inroads.
The resistance varies according to preheat. I still falls below 2 ohms.

Take a gas lighter. Heat it to red heat. 3-4 times. Liquid on it and then another 3-4 times. Then it should go well.

 

[michal.jansto]

Ah, so 8 cycles ... 4x without fluid and 4x Liquid bath?

 

[Gummy Bear]

Raidy,
Good to read you again. It's been a while.

 

[nickf41680]

Raidy your back!!!!
The creator of it all
Hope all is well!


Sent from somewhere in my daily travels....

 

[Persis]

Raidy, really good to see you again....

 

[Turbo]

Yes, welcome back 'raidy'. Ok, my problem is now that juice/condensation is getting around my silicone job in the switch house, so the coil is on hold... I did silicone around them but missed a corner around the solder..

My decision is now to re-silicone or redo the whole thing w/ brazed wire/'led', etc. I'm pretty sure I can get the silicone around the solder/wire, although it would be tricky. I do see where it's coming in, and I would silicone the top this time around.

What to do... I'm not too crazy about redoing the whole thing being it's so close... Someone decide for me

 

[asdaq]

Turbo, I'd say pick out the old silicone and re silicone. The old won't stick to new as well (or vice versa) and that will be a 10 min job plus dry time as opposed to longer...

MJ, degrade~ burn or melt. The longer lead is bare copper? I see 2 screws in the bottom of the chamber, and then this copper piece and another screw at the top of that, so why the copper?

 

[chuckie]

Yes, welcome back 'raidy'. Ok, my problem is now that juice/condensation is getting around my silicone job in the switch house, so the coil is on hold... I did silicone around them but missed a corner around the solder..

My decision is now to re-silicone or redo the whole thing w/ brazed wire/'led', etc. I'm pretty sure I can get the silicone around the solder/wire, although it would be tricky. I do see where it's coming in, and I would silicone the top this time around.

What to do... I'm not too crazy about redoing the whole thing being it's so close... Someone decide for me

Mine is in 30 pieces right now.I removed the silicone and the neg. wire fell right out. The only things still in place are the switch to + wire and wire to battery plate. While I was at it I removed the bottom O ring and replaced it with the extra one Peace sent.Brazing the neg. wire and reconstruction on Thursday.

 

[Turbo]

Mine is in 30 pieces right now.I removed the silicone and the neg. wire fell right out. The only things still in place are the switch to + wire and wire to battery plate. While I was at it I removed the bottom O ring and replaced it with the extra one Peace sent.Brazing the neg. wire and reconstruction on Thursday.

I hear you. Good luck w/ the brazing. I have some music work to get done, but will scrape the silicone away and determine what route I will take; may just rework it or may just leave it be and re-silicone. I should've done the silicone before soldering, live and learn..

There are some great ideas recently by 'jbs', 'michal' and 'persis'. Maybe I could incorporate some small aspect of theirs...

While we're at it, I asked you a question yesterday but the thread moved fast since:

"@ 'chuckie': That is odd...wonder why the same atty works better on the mini (I'm assuming you're using the same atty on both)? My first hunch would be a kanthal or ground issue, but it may be an issue w/ your 18650 if the same atty performs well on the mini... Definitely keep us posted.

By the way, what batts are you running on the mini? I don't have the small batts yet but have made a decision to try the AW IMR 18350's."

 

[chuckie]

@Turbo..each hybrid has it's own atty,I can't remember if I've switched them but that's a good idea.As for batts,the mini is using 18350's from mad vapes.They seem to preform about the same as the unprotected 16340 spiderfires,but last longer.

 

[michal.jansto]

MJ, degrade~ burn or melt. The longer lead is bare copper? I see 2 screws in the bottom of the chamber, and then this copper piece and another screw at the top of that, so why the copper?

Yeah, I got it!

Bottom bolt -> Stainless Steel
Filling screw -> Stainless Steel
Top nut -> Copper
Screw Top -> Stainless Steel
Lead-free soldering tin.
Body -> Stainless Steel
Wire -> Copper

I do not see degradation. It's OK.

 

[michal.jansto]

As for batts,the mini is using 18350's from mad vapes

The battery has 18350 Hybrid mini. Hybrid has 18650.
18350 is unprotected ...
I wanted to buy a Hybrid (18650), but I was afraid of leaks.

 

[asdaq]

Michal, sorry I thought I saw some insulator on that wire. And I completely missed in your original post you gave the tube size already.

Chuckie, that is strange about the 18650's, I'm curious how they do when you switch the cups around. With mine the 18650 is always more powerful.

 

[stevenstefke]

wonderful mods guys!

 

[UA72Riddle]

@ Turbo....
I wouldn't solder after you apply the silicone...too much heat will melt it and ruin any seal you have. The silver wire heats up really fast and easy. Much easier than the SS tube. By the time you get the tube heated to accept the solder, the other end of your neg wire will be really hot. I pulled my tube off after soldering, applied silicone down in the hole around the wire, then reinserted the tube twisting it as I pushed it in. This helps spread the silicone and creates a more even seal throughout. Heat and silicone do not mix well..

 

[michal.jansto]

Friends
Today I made a small adjustment. Oxidation process I did not work. So I made the change. Burning not mesh to isolate tissue paper. It works great!
No fiery trial, improved absorbency, higher TH, better taste ...

I also shortened the Genisis.

 

[Gummy Bear]

OK MJ, I don't understand what the tissue paper is for??????????

 

[Turbo]

@ Turbo....
I wouldn't solder after you apply the silicone...too much heat will melt it and ruin any seal you have. The silver wire heats up really fast and easy. Much easier than the SS tube. By the time you get the tube heated to accept the solder, the other end of your neg wire will be really hot. I pulled my tube off after soldering, applied silicone down in the hole around the wire, then reinserted the tube twisting it as I pushed it in. This helps spread the silicone and creates a more even seal throughout. Heat and silicone do not mix well..

Good point, I thought of that after I posted. I managed to get (most) of the silicone off. It's going to be hard to get it around the solder in parts, so I may just try it like that.

What's a good way to clean out the switch house? I'll need to do that before trying to re-silicone. I got some moisture out w/ a q-tip but some spaces are tight.

 

[mwa102464]

Good point, I thought of that after I posted. I managed to get (most) of the silicone off. It's going to be hard to get it around the solder in parts, so I may just try it like that.

What's a good way to clean out the switch house? I'll need to do that before trying to re-silicone. I got some moisture out w/ a q-tip but some spaces are tight.

can of air !