Some homemade attys and genesis

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Quick1

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Turbo, I have been in touch with Persis. The big question is....are you going to demand a damn light in your tank? I know you like your bling so we better get this out of the way early on.

NO LIGHTS

I think Persis' connections are press fit. I'm not real enthusiastic about that. Might be ok but a tiny bit of corrosion/oxidation and it will cause you fits. Like I said though might be ok. Also looks like some small precision machining which could jack up the cost significantly? Haha, but it's a very cool design and it would be convenient for maintenance or maybe replacing a cracked tube or whatever.
 

Turbo

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Turbo, I have been in touch with Persis. The big question is....are you going to demand a damn light in your tank? I know you like your bling so we better get this out of the way early on.

Easy now..lmao

I'm off the light (although that still would be cool), wait until you see my new tanks and you'll see why ;)
 

Akya2120

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Is the only reason for oxidising the mesh to insulate the connection? I have been messing with a carto connector that I made a piece of SS mesh fit in the positive terminal hole. I have nichrome 60 chromel C that I bought on mad vapes. I pushed the nichrome into the center of the roll then started making my windings. After I've done that I pushed it into the positive center terminal to make the connection. I made a stainless steel roll for the negative terminal that I put some of the nichrome into and bent it down. Depending on how far in I push the nichrome/mesh end into the positive terminal I get less ohms, or more if I pull out. I have it at 2.2 ohms right now. I have not oxidized either screen but for some reason I am not getting any shorting. Could this be because I have not boiled the screen? This is still just a test and I have not been vaping it but it produces lots of vapor. I still have to make a resivour. I was just going to make a cart with a ZFM that the screen taps. Thanks! I'll post pics if wanted. Also is nichrome bad for these setups?
 

Gummy Bear

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Is the only reason for oxidising the mesh to insulate the connection? I have been messing with a carto connector that I made a piece of SS mesh fit in the positive terminal hole. I have nichrome 60 chromel C that I bought on mad vapes. I pushed the nichrome into the center of the roll then started making my windings. After I've done that I pushed it into the positive center terminal to make the connection. I made a stainless steel roll for the negative terminal that I put some of the nichrome into and bent it down. Depending on how far in I push the nichrome/mesh end into the positive terminal I get less ohms, or more if I pull out. I have it at 2.2 ohms right now. I have not oxidized either screen but for some reason I am not getting any shorting. Could this be because I have not boiled the screen? This is still just a test and I have not been vaping it but it produces lots of vapor. I still have to make a resivour. I was just going to make a cart with a ZFM that the screen taps. Thanks! I'll post pics if wanted. Also is nichrome bad for these setups?

Cool, a V ohm heating coil. Got any pics?
As for the boiling, that is (as I understand it) only to clean the machine oils and other crap that gets on it from the factory. It shouldn't have any effect of performance.
 

Turbo

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Akya2120 yes i would love to see some pics and thanks. RockWoman thats funny what ya said about Turbo wanting the lights lol. GummyBear your MP3 player too lol.

Laughing at my expense?! LOL, I did too, cracked me up ;) But, you'll all want my bling (except 'quick') when you see it...lol
 

cos

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Laughing at my expense?! LOL, I did too, cracked me up ;) But, you'll all want my bling (except 'quick') when you see it...lol
I am sure the new tanks you made are golden man. Why did you have to mention that. Now i need pictures lolol.
uh oh wife calling time to shut off the pc. drats cya tonite folks
 

Turbo

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I am sure the new tanks you made are golden man. Why did you have to mention that. Now i need pictures lolol.
uh oh wife calling time to shut off the pc. drats cya tonite folks

I'm having a friend turn them from cast acrylic rod. Pics will come when they do and the Hybrid is back together. I'll take it to my friend's for the photo opp since my camera is ancient.
 

Akya2120

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2011-03-27 13.33.47.jpg

As the mesh moves up there is more resistance or down there is less. No soldering connections. I'm wondering why the nichrome isn't shorting out though, I am using the same mesh for the negative terminal and it takes the current. weird right? None of the mesh has been oxidized. The center white piece below the mesh was a cap for the carto that I turned into a shield for the positive and it holds the negative terminal in place. All the flavors that I don't like that I put into the mesh smell better than they ever have haha. Sorry if the picture quality is bad, I took it with my cell. I'm in the desert with the family. coming home today so maybe I can finish making this. I just need to drill a hole in the sidewall of what was once the cartomizer shell. Then I need to make a cartridge that the mesh taps(ZFM from a normal atty/cart setup). I'm using 304 SS 325 mesh that Desert Rat sent me. Thanks D Rat! Easy genesis setup, no machining just some modifications of cartos. Next I'm going to try to get a Ce2 to feed with mesh and no wick. I bought some and the first hit is nice then the second is burnt because they don't wick fast enough for my vaping haha. I like being able to see how much liquid is left.
 
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Turbo

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Did I not see another thtread on this forum where someone had put an LED inside a Maptank ? Just had a look for it but can`t find anything, am I going mad?

Yes, people are putting them in CE2's, MAP tanks, etc. but I'm weary of having it right inside (some 'led's have traces of lead). I'd opt for having a separate hole drilled just for the 'led' and sealed.
 

asdaq

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Akya, are you sure it isn't conducting through the mesh and getting the adjustable resistance through the mesh?

For the co-op, a hole in the bottom that can be sealed to let light through sounds pretty nice. Anyone think another threaded hole in the bottom to have a longer fill screw that provides extra structural support seems like a good thing?
 

Akya2120

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Yeah, I'm sure because when I test the whole length of the screen it comes to about 3.4 ohms. I'm using just the base of that, about five mm and I'm gettin 3.6. If I trigger it dry it lights the wire. I've popped one coil just making sure.

Edit: Could it be because I am using nichrome rather than kanthal? I didn't oxidize the nichrome either though. I'm wondering if my multimeter is giving me the reading for the coil but when the voltage is applied it jumps the gap. My notcigs Buzz isn't reading it as a short though. Regardless it is making lots of vapor. I'll be home in about an hour so I can boil the screen and maybe vape it after the hole is drilled. Does anyone see something bad with this design? I worry about my health with something like this.
 
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Akya2120

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For the co-op, a hole in the bottom that can be sealed to let light through sounds pretty nice. Anyone think another threaded hole in the bottom to have a longer fill screw that provides extra structural support seems like a good thing?

I like this idea because if O rings are being used to seal the liquid tank the screw will hold the pieces together so you wont accidentally pop it apart.
 

cos

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hey guys and gals i have a question for ya.
When i first got my 1st Genisis i didnt order enough so its time to get some more. My question is which mesh should i go with. I am asking for some input on maybe one is better than the other so please give me some input. This time i gonna buy a good quantity and i want it to be the right one. Thanks

Cos
 

Turbo

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hey guys and gals i have a question for ya.
When i first got my 1st Genisis i didnt order enough so its time to get some more. My question is which mesh should i go with. I am asking for some input on maybe one is better than the other so please give me some input. This time i gonna buy a good quantity and i want it to be the right one. Thanks

Cos

Most of us are using #400 mesh from the Mesh Co. Less count will give more TH and higher less/more vapor. 400 seems to be the best middle ground.
 

asdaq

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Yeah that is my favorite too. I wrote them about a week ago and the #325 twill has an open area of 29% as opposed to the #400 at 36.8% so that is probably why it acts much the same. I forgot to ask about the aperture, but as to which SS they have, it is currently 304L, but they are running low and it fluctuates which they keep in stock. Anyone recall how to test SS composition with a magnet?

Cos, for your switch/spring issue, I would suggest replacing the switch, it doesn't seem like a good thing to patch.
 
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