The leads go up the tube in the middle ala Pailpoe. To service the the coil or mesh the clear tube has to be removed though, and the vaping chamber clear looks nice if you aren't using it.
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Thanks asdaq. sorryt for this dumb question so when the wires go thru the tube do they come out the top and split so the kanthal can be wrapped or whatever to it? or do they stay inside the tube with a connection at the top? I hope i explained myself for what i am trying to ask.
I remember Pailpoe had his wires in the middle tube but dont know what happens to the wire after it goes thru the tube. Go easay guys imn still learning but thanks to all of you folks i am learning so much i amaze myself lately lol.
RockWoman thank you very much for the update. I am game for whatever is decided by the majority. This CO-OP is gonna be great.
RockWomen
Looking forward to seeing the diagram of the American Mod . I made one Genisis with outside wires. I have Zero leak problems. Now broken wires and shorts were sometimes more of a pain than a leak lol. All and all a solid mod . I really interested in one made to inches and isn't metric as parts are easier to get over having to machine them down to get to inches.
Dan
Looking forward to seeing the diagram of the American Mod . I made one Genisis with outside wires. I have Zero leak problems. Now broken wires and shorts were sometimes more of a pain than a leak lol. All and all a solid mod . I really interested in one made to inches and isn't metric as parts are easier to get over having to machine them down to get to inches.
Dan
Riddle, sorry to hear, maybe you want to send it to Poland for a tuning?
I too have been busy, but am still rooting for the SAE co-op. If it's a smaller diameter affair, then I'm even more excited.
Has anyone flown on a plane with a hybrid in the carry on? I know Jens flew to Germany with his genisis, but I'm wondering with security how it might go.
As busy as I have been....you bet I would send it to someone for tuning up! I didn't build a mossfet for my switch and it still works great...though I know its days are numbered.
@ turbo.....I tried to use silicone on the top too...and it did work for a short while. On the third rebuild....or forth or fifth (can't remember now) I tried something different. I heated up my dental scraper with my lighter and used it to melt and mold the tubes to seal around the wire. But just like the silicone, moving the wires around during wrapping the kanthal caused it to open up.
As for the airport.....I walked right through security with mine with no problems. I wasn't going to let it out of my sight. Went right through, along with my change and another mod. The key is to empty it prior to getting there. I just carried a 6ml bottle with me....also was in with the change tray...with my juice in it. You may not HAVE to empty it....I just didn't want to chance it.
on the go....with my Croatian Beast...Hybrid Mini!
@ RockWoman....was there anymore thought to the fully mechanical design? I think that one is brilliant! And not to mention very pleasing to look at as well as easy to put together. It would eliminate the entire leaking problem all together. And we need to come up with a solution to condensation getting in the tubes.....but that's as easy as some heat shrink tubing I'm sure.
on the go....with my Croatian Beast...Hybrid Mini!
on the go....with my Croatian Beast...Hybrid Mini!
I don't know why you don't consider the Czech design. Rather elegant and no wire sealing to be done.
I don't see any holes for the mesh to enter the chamber, otherwise it looks like a nice design. Where is this posted?
So sealing the top tubes w/ silicone didn't work after a while or you changed it after the rebuild?
@ 'natureboy', that's 'michal.jansto's Ego Genisis. He and 'jbs' had a nice rendition of a smaller Genisis.
@ Turbo....
It did work for a short while. But when you move the wires around wrapping the kanthal, it breaks the seal. If you take a small piece of heat shrink tube and slide it down so that it covers both the "earstick" and the wire...and shrink it of course...it should take care of that without the need for silicone.
on the go....with my Croatian Beast...Hybrid Mini!
It did work for a short while. But when you move the wires around wrapping the kanthal, it breaks the seal. If you take a small piece of heat shrink tube and slide it down so that it covers both the "earstick" and the wire...and shrink it of course...it should take care of that without the need for silicone.
on the go....with my Croatian Beast...Hybrid Mini!
Riddle, did you have the 18650 tube when you flew with it? I would be worried TSA / counterparts might find it too much like a club, and I'd hate to lose it. Most all of my mods are rather plane unfriendly, in fact I'm down to a single ego batt and standard cartos that don't seem somehow ominous.
That I cant answer. I had the mini tube set up on it when I went through. But the large tube isnt that much bigger. I tend to use my 18350s more than the 650s.
An 8" long club? They're not so worried about blunt objects. Like a cane, or your favorite vibrator.
Jensb, is that offer still open? I just ordered some Alumilite and was wracking my brain for a way to make the negatives. I was hoping that someone mentioned a handy item that would just work...I have everything else.
The mesh just drops into a hole right next to the tube (no need for it to be in the middle). Another nice feature is you only need one lead (pos) coming up through the tube. The neg terminal for the Kanthal is simply tapped into the aluminum top piece.
Turning just two pieces in aluminum, without threading, would make for a very cost effective and much easier to assemble atty. No fumbling with little tubes, silicone, epoxies. And the clear chamber would make it easy to spot any wick/wire problems.
To appease someone like asdaq the top could be threaded like POC's and an additional cost top cap also turned.
The mesh just drops into a hole right next to the tube (no need for it to be in the middle). Another nice feature is you only need one lead (pos) coming up through the tube. The neg terminal for the Kanthal is simply tapped into the aluminum top piece.
Turning just two pieces in aluminum, without threading, would make for a very cost effective and much easier to assemble atty. No fumbling with little tubes, silicone, epoxies. And the clear chamber would make it easy to spot any wick/wire problems.
To appease someone like asdaq the top could be threaded like POC's and an additional cost top cap also turned.
I have to say I really really like this design. I think it's a simplier lower cost method. I do think the top cap should be threaded however to make for easier fiddling around with the coil and mesh setup. Those interested in the US -Co-Op what do you all think?
Well there are lots of ways to skin a cat. How about the making to the top of the main turning a little thicker, cutting in two slots for o-rings and using Jens' approach for a separate but still inexpensive tubing based cap.
Crude, but you get the idea.
I don't like it so much.
The center tube is ok but probably not worth the manufacturing cost. I use silver wire/rod for my leads. It's completely bare and only insulated where it goes through the top cap. I forget, but I think I used 14 gauge? solid silver wire and shrink wrap for 5mm where it goes through the 2.5mm hole in the top cap. I do like the cap being grounded by the tube. That's the tough lead to solder in the connector. The center lead is easy.
I don't like the one piece tube (I do like the transparent or a translucent vapor chamber). You have to remove the tube to service kanthal and/or mesh. I do that at least once a week if not more often. O-rings tight enough for a really good seal are going to fail with frequent assembly/disassembly. I think the tube/tank portion should be semi-permanent. You really should only need to disassemble the tank in case of some catastrophic failure like a cracking it. The only times I've disassembled the tank portion was due to cracking the acrylic tube. I'm in the top section about once a day or two for refilling, wiping up condensation, or servicing the kanthal or mesh.
Note: one thing to keep in mind is strength against side force. Primarily down towards the connector. Pocket, grabbing your pv by the tip/mouth piece or having your pv fall from a standing position to flat on whatever surface it's sitting on. Nothing to do with this design but a consideration that should be accomodated or at least kept in mind.
Willy B and Quick 1, I agree with you both. You cannot have a one piece tube. Top portion must be able to pop off for servicing. I like the threaded idea, but o-rings are simple and easy to replace as well. Has anyone considered a pyrex glass tube for the tank portion? I don't know how consistant the ID would be...but to me...glass is class. Anyone else?
Going from the hybrid and my own takes on this, it is really nice to have a tank tightly pressed on with o-rings (Quick might disagree) and threads for the for the cap. The tank I never need to open so it can be nice and tight. The cap comes off frequently, so it needs to be looser. If the cap has o-rings and is looser, it may leak or fall off in the pocket. Hence my favor for the threads and a small moat/ lip to redirect towards the wick. Quick and easy to get off, but secure when on.
Holes and grooves I can do on my own, cutting threads and creative shaping are beyond my ability. Taking advantage of precise machining would seem to be a goal here.
For a central wire tube, I could go either way, it still needs to be routed and sealed at the top, but it could continue the ground nicely. Pyrex seems hard to cut/machine but I'm not sure. I know this is supposed to be inches everything, but could the small holes still be mm? Just askin
Holes and grooves I can do on my own, cutting threads and creative shaping are beyond my ability. Taking advantage of precise machining would seem to be a goal here.
For a central wire tube, I could go either way, it still needs to be routed and sealed at the top, but it could continue the ground nicely. Pyrex seems hard to cut/machine but I'm not sure. I know this is supposed to be inches everything, but could the small holes still be mm?
Just askin- Status
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