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Party in Gummy's thread today http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...mmy-goes-smoke-free-one-year.html#post3404345
slimest that is a great idea. I have got to try this. Thanks for the explanation.
I haven't gotten any response from my posting in my thread so i thought I would post this here.
What do you think. I am giving up on going through my friend. I am looking for another shop in the area. I checked google and there are plenty. Sent out emails to a couple local shops earlier today. I don't expect to hear anything back until Monday.
What do you think. I am giving up on going through my friend. I am looking for another shop in the area. I checked google and there are plenty. Sent out emails to a couple local shops earlier today. I don't expect to hear anything back until Monday.
I was thinking about going 1/32 larger in diameter. I would like to go as small as possible to allow for more liquid storage. We will see how it goes if I try to make one and it breaks I will increase the dia. I already have one drawn if I need to change that. Hopefully the stainless will stand up to it. What gauge wire is good for the positive terminal? I was planning on using 22 gauge solid wire. I have an O terminal that will go on the post for the positive terminal. As far as liquid storage goes, the math comes out to 2.24mL in that drawing. With the 5/32" post it will be about 2.1 mL and a 3/16" post will be 1.96 mL.
I must have miss the post for your thread Akya..
would you mind posting the link so I ca mark it?
would you mind posting the link so I ca mark it? 
I like it... I think.
I didn't see overall length and from the looks maybe the vapor chamber should be taller?
Also might not be enough tube over gasket... Make sure there is enough so nothing comes loose or off from reasonable lateral force. Like the atty getting pushed sideways from the tip.
I'm guessing you don't want a threaded cap. So if that's the case, say at the top you have .125 (1/8) in between the o-rings...then the cap would be overlapping the edge of the o-ring groove a 1/16, 1/8 past center of the o-ring. I know it doesn't seem like much, but I think if everything tolerance wise is right and you have a tight fit that would be good. As the drawing stands now you would only have a 1/16th overlap from center. I would go with .125 between the o-ring grooves.
I would also drop the holes for the posts down to about 1/8....might get too crowded under the cap by the time you figure in nuts, or washers and springs. For the center tube, you will have .0625 wall thickness.....so with SS I think you will be ok. But try the first one out, if it doesn't feel solid then try something else. Think of a CE2 center tube.....thin, but pretty stout. I would like to see a 3ml capacity personally, but I never vape more than 2ml a day. My AVS tank lasts me all day and then some.
I haven't had a chance to read the whole thread yet, but I just wanted to put this out there. If you haven't found mesh and 32g kanthal yet, shoot me a PM....I can help you out with that. Drawing looks good, but maybe a few tweaks will be prefect.
I would also drop the holes for the posts down to about 1/8....might get too crowded under the cap by the time you figure in nuts, or washers and springs. For the center tube, you will have .0625 wall thickness.....so with SS I think you will be ok. But try the first one out, if it doesn't feel solid then try something else. Think of a CE2 center tube.....thin, but pretty stout. I would like to see a 3ml capacity personally, but I never vape more than 2ml a day. My AVS tank lasts me all day and then some.
I haven't had a chance to read the whole thread yet, but I just wanted to put this out there. If you haven't found mesh and 32g kanthal yet, shoot me a PM....I can help you out with that. Drawing looks good, but maybe a few tweaks will be prefect.
I will change the drawing to allow the cap to be more supported. The drawing as it sits is just under two inches, with the extra 1/16th in between the cap and the container it will be a little over two inches. With out the drip tip that is. Oh and for provari owners, the tube is the same size as the ring around the drip well. It should mate up nicely, which is pure mistake. I ordered my provari after all my parts hehe.
I'm still dripping so a 2mL capacity would be dreamy haha.
I'm still dripping so a 2mL capacity would be dreamy haha.
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I would recommend the thicker post, the difference in ml isn't that great and the chance of breaking is less. Especially the chance of breaking while machining as that post is likely the last step in removing material. Nothing is worse than wasted work near the end of the job.
Personally I've come to like a shorter build that holds 2-2.5ml in favor of the longer 3.5ml to have a more compact mod. With several mods going at once, individual capacity isn't really a factor.
Personally I've come to like a shorter build that holds 2-2.5ml in favor of the longer 3.5ml to have a more compact mod. With several mods going at once, individual capacity isn't really a factor.
More compact is always better. Personally I go through 1.5ml a day so any quantity of that or more is good for me. That diameter is fine with my mods (and most, since not many are smaller around than a 14500) so if it were to get smaller I would rather see shorter than thinner. Having the diameter in the vapor chamber also makes working with the coil easier as well as finding and working with connectors that fit inside the cap.
I already have all the components. I am using 316 stainless steel set screws for posts and 304 stainless nuts. All of it fits if I could just get it machined. It will be a tight fit but should be worth it for the size. I am now making my other drawings. The nice part about having the center post at .125 is that I don't have to move the terminals from the center point. I designed this so there is very little space between the nut on the terminal and the mesh. Making a larger center post means I will have to move the mesh hole and the terminals to keep a very close tolerance. I think it was about .01" that I had the tolerance at. Can't remember right now I'll check the drawing before I change it but I remember factoring in the .008" thickness of the 32 gauge kanthal.
I am going to use 100% silicone. The food safe stuff they put around electric range tops. Unless someone else has a better suggestion? I don't know if there is epoxy that is food safe after it sets but that would be a good choice too. I am trying to keep the holes through the plug to a minimum. I was also going to use that to make a plug for the fill hole. Will the mesh let air through or does there need to be an air hole to release vacuum pressure in the tank?
No problem at all with air getting in through the mesh/mesh hole. No vacuum problems.
I'm still not getting it on insulating the positive screw. I think it would be really hard to fill the hole with silicone and then maybe screw the screw into it? The screw can't contact the plug at all or you will have a short. I suppose you might be able to do something like put a bit of shrink wrap over the screw and then push it into the hole being careful to have the bottom of the screw covered as well. In any event you will need to have the hole sized properly to accomodate the insulation material.
I think most any 2 part epoxy is safe after it fully cures? The nice thing about silicone is that it can be fairly easily removed if there's any need to redo something.
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I plan on just making a hole and filling it 3/4 of the way up with silicone then pushing the set screw in and hoping it stands. If not I'll have to make a cast, which shouldn't be too big a deal if I have a lathe to work with. I have a friend with an old lathe but he doesn't think it will handle 304. I think he just wants nothing to do with this project so I have sent emails to other shops. Hoping to hear back from them tomorrow.
make sure jbweld isn't conductive after it cures. For some reason i thought it was.
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