Some homemade attys and genesis

[Quick1]

Quick what about the upper and lower piece? The driptip cap, yes aluminum. The tank, plexi or polycarbonate standard ID size. But why not aluminum for the tank connection pieces?

Hell, why not rethink the connections too. If we are going to build an American version, why not make it easier and with the all the extra features we have always wanted? I have read other posts that do a version of the Genisis but with a sideways wick.

Yes, that is what I meant. The two Genisis that Peaceoffcake made for me are entirely aluminum. Bottom tank piece (with press in 510 connector), top tank piece, and mouth piece cap. All aluminum.

I was thinking about the tank as well...

If you're going to direct some brain power towards improvement see what you can come up with for the electrical connections.
Far and away the biggest problem I have is soldering the leads to the 510 connector. I don't want to use wire. So far I've used copper rod (for a little while), silver rod, and now I'm trying to do it with 304 SS hypodermic tubing. Big problem trying to solder the negative lead to the inside of the brass barrel of the 510 connector... especially with it already pressed in the well of the bottom end piece. I did manage to solder the copper rod and the silver rod. It was less difficulty soldering the connectors on the top of the rods but it wasn't exactly easy. It's rather cramped up top by the drip tip cap clearance (9.5 mm). By the way, that's another thing to keep in mind when considering overall diameter. Vertical and lateral clearance to work with for kanthal connectors up top.

made these:

to solder on top of the rods like this:

I'd like to improve on those with these:

To do so I will be trying SS hypodermic tubing. Those connectors fit perfectly into 15 gauge thin wall tubing that fits perfectly through the holes I have in the top tank end piece (w/shrink tubing for insulation through the tank end piece)

Less lateral space, better mechanical connection before soldering, should be much easier to wrap with vertical screws, mo better

So far I've managed to solder the center post of the 510 connector to a piece of hypodermic tubing. I've yet to be successful at soldering a piece of tubing to the inside of the brass barrel of the 510 connector... It's a race between totally fubaring the connector and getting the tube to solder on there. Then I'm planning on putting the moderate bends in the tubing by heating them red hot while bending so as not to kink them. Downside is that they're going to discolor noticeably...

It would be outstanding if the holes for everything in the top tank piece were configured so it was a straight shot for the leads from the 510 connector up through the top tank piece. That would greatly ease assembly/fabrication.

 

[asdaq]

Rockwoman, I can give you a US address too

Wrapping the Kanthal around the mesh isn't any harder with the smaller OD, its actually better to have the triangle tighter so there is less exposed kanthal between the connections. As long as the top comes off and exposes the innards it is the same job. Storm/Gerard even insists on the silver wires touching the mesh, which gets the Kanthal extremely close. The main drawback is getting the holes drilled straight in the first place.

Also, with smaller sizes the plexi can be thinner too. 5/8 OD 1/2 ID with 1/16 wall is 1.6mm thick, and I am quite pleased with the strength of 1mm wall in 15/13 tubing. For me the hybrid is really thick stuff, although I'd worry about dropping any of it on a sidewalk.

 

[Akya2120]

Has anyone tried to flip the unit over and making an air path through the liquid instead of running the power lines through the liquid? That way when your vaping the gravity helps the capillary action and then there is no need for the air hole in the top cover. Plus then the air path can go straight into the SS mesh. There would have to be a connector in the lower chamber that goes to the center piece so that the kanthal/nichrome can stay wrapped around the SS. I was also thinking the terminals could be changed so one is high and one is low and they are extremely close to the mesh so there is very little or no distance for the resistance wire to go between the mesh and terminal. Anyone think that's a good idea?

 

[raidy]

New Top-Secret-atty

more informatiomn im my mainthread.

 

[asdaq]

Akya, welcome aboard, that sounds pretty much how the genisis LV works, I think JensB here has one. There is a small bottle that screws in and the vapor goes around the bottle.

Quick, that base acts as heatsink and certainly sounds hard to do. I can say that wrapping a strand of copper around the tubing and then coating that with solder helps a lot. If you can get a drop of solder to take to the inside of the connector first and then re-flow it to get the tubing to adhere it should be easier. If you want gentle curves you can bend with just the fingers, no heat.

 

[Quick1]

That way when your vaping the gravity helps the capillary action and then there is no need for the air hole in the top cover.

The capillary action is more than sufficient -- to the point you can get "flooding". You can adjust for juice and preference by varying the mesh size and or how you roll it. There is no air hole. The extra hole is for filling the tank and most people have it plugged/sealed with a screw. The quantity and rate of juice being wicked from the tank doesn't cause any real low pressure in the tank that isn't easily recovered between vaping... it's not completely air tight with the power leads and the mesh itself.

 

[Akya2120]

The capillary action is more than sufficient -- to the point you can get "flooding". You can adjust for juice and preference by varying the mesh size and or how you roll it. There is no air hole. The extra hole is for filling the tank and most people have it plugged/sealed with a screw. The quantity and rate of juice being wicked from the tank doesn't cause any real low pressure in the tank that isn't easily recovered between vaping... it's not completely air tight with the power leads and the mesh itself.

i understand the concept. I was talking about the breather hole in the upper chamber. I guess I'll have to draw it up on cad to show you what I mean. I was saying to put the liquid on the other side of the genesis and make an airway through the liquid chamber rather than running the power through the liquid chamber.

 

[lorderos33]

The talent here is amazing. I got my hands on one of pieceoffcake's hybrid minis because I thought it looked like a really well built mod. I was not disappointed in the least. After experimenting with wire and mesh gauges and batteries and voltages for a few day I got it to the point where it works very well with my juice. I still don't have the hang of how much mesh wicks how much juice how fast. I got the kanthal down pat though. A few more atty's and I should have the genesis down pat.

I've been looking at pailpoe's MODULRA design in google docs, that looks really interesting. I think I'm gonna get the lathe fired up and put together one of those from scratch with a similar battery/button setup that's on the mini. I have a few of the avr boards he's using kicking around that have USB connects on them.....might be interesting to incorporate these 2 designs analog with inline battery charging via USB (if the board can handle it) and program the board to pulse battery power according to voltage present so it won't burn juice.

If that all works out then maybe take it one step further and setup a basic .net front end app to allow the board to be programmed to send the electrical pulses to the atty according to the VG/PG mixes we want to put in so we can program the sweet spot quickly via the avr....

Maybe it's a little ambitious, but it would be cool as hell

 

[Turbo]

Good to have ideas floating around here again. That would be sweet 'lorderos' if it can be done.

As for the possible US co-op, I vote for screw connectors on top and clear tanks.

 

[Rock Woman]

gummy - my apology. I had not read the post all of the way and was on my way out the door at the time. Aluminum will be much more cost effective since our machine shops will probably cost more to turn the parts than they do in Europe, we may need to go aluminum. If the cost isn't all that much difference, I would vote for SS. We will know by next week.

Quick - I do like your connector ideas. I am racking my brain trying to figure out a way to incorporate something right into the design. I really don't wan't to contract to machine this and then spend another 20 hrs shopping around for all the little extra parts though. I too have those little rc airplane connectors but my needles are thick walled and the connector does not fit.

Ankya - Welcome aboard. I get what you mean, juice tank on top with air tube down through juice. SS wick and kanthal would be under the juice tank on the battery end.. I don't know if this is the best solution because of gravity and the need for the wick to have a hole into the juice too. Also I am not sure about juice splatter. Now, when mine splatters, it just runs back down where I can deal with it or the wick reabsorbs it. I may play with this idea though, interesting.

 

[Rock Woman]

New Top-Secret-atty

more informatiomn im my mainthread.

raidy you are simply incredible. Our thanks for the Genisis and your genius. I have been following your thread, put me on the list please, to buy your new creation

 

[rico]

where can help me and build me a hybrid,ican not make self,or where can buy a hybrid please help me ,

the hybrid is the best of the world for hardcore longtime comfortable e-smoking ,not other e-cig have a chance the hybrids with tanksystems are the best at the moments worldwide.why we dont have a factory that make hybrids ?

 

[Gummy Bear]

where can help me and build me a hybrid,ican not make self,or where can buy a hybrid please help me ,

the hybrid is the best of the world for hardcore longtime comfortable e-smoking ,not other e-cig have a chance the hybrids with tanksystems are the best at the moments worldwide.why we dont have a factory that make hybrids ?

D.I.Y. rico,,, that's the only way. even when POC was making the hybrid, it was still only a DIY kit.

 

[UA72Riddle]

I'm in! And I also would like to see an all aluminum version with a 510.

I'm glad I waited to order the hand lathe now....I was going to cut down some derlin to fit with my map tank. Bottom section is already set up for a 510 or 901. Only need to make the top piece to complete it for a derlin genisis. I still like the all mechanical no soldering genisis....can't remember now who made it. I'm sure Turbo will be able to fill in that blank.

on the go....with my Croatian Beast...Hybrid Mini!

 

[u_couple]

I don`t have a picture to hand, but for my connections I used a 3mm ss grub screw with a 1mm hole drilled through it. I soldered the grub screw on to a piece of 1.6mm ss bar (which I was able to insert into the hypodermic needle tubes which ran up thtough the tank) On the lower connection I also soldered a ss washer to allow me to screw a ss nut down onto the kanthal, on the higher connection post I used a nut above, and below the hole in the grub screw, this allowed me to adjust the hight that the kanthal was getting tightened onto, depending whether I used 3, 4, 5 or 6 wraps round the wick. All the parts are readily available and very cheap to buy !
It`s not the prettiest setup, but if anyone would like a pic, I can take a couple tomorrow to show you what I mean.

 

[asdaq]

Couple, pics would be nice, my imagination is wandering a bit

 

[Turbo]

I still like the all mechanical no soldering genisis....can't remember now who made it. I'm sure Turbo will be able to fill in that blank.

That would be 'persis' Genisis that used no solder, wires, etc

Thanks for the reminder, maybe we can use some of his ideas w/ our co-op construction? And yes 'ucouple', pics would be nice to see.

 

[cos]

I don`t have a picture to hand, but for my connections I used a 3mm ss grub screw with a 1mm hole drilled through it. I soldered the grub screw on to a piece of 1.6mm ss bar (which I was able to insert into the hypodermic needle tubes which ran up thtough the tank) On the lower connection I also soldered a ss washer to allow me to screw a ss nut down onto the kanthal, on the higher connection post I used a nut above, and below the hole in the grub screw, this allowed me to adjust the hight that the kanthal was getting tightened onto, depending whether I used 3, 4, 5 or 6 wraps round the wick. All the parts are readily available and very cheap to buy !
It`s not the prettiest setup, but if anyone would like a pic, I can take a couple tomorrow to show you what I mean.

u_couple Yes please post a few picks of this. Thanks

 

[cos]

So im sure we have at least 10 people who want this correct?
Hey Rock Woman Thanks for getting this together.

 

[raidy]

Hi friends, for several days I have not been writing in this thread, but always I was following it. I have been busy, but also I was working on my Genesis following the concepts of the POC design. Thankyou very much Peace!

Here are some pics.

View attachment 29890 View attachment 29891 View attachment 29892 View attachment 29893 View attachment 29894

I have incorporated some interesting concepts, and I want to share them with You. This device has the following features:

100% SS (absolutely all metalic components)
No Epoxi
No Solder
No Silicon
No wires
100 % mechanically assembled (No leak nor filtrations, not even a micro drop)
Very robust and with solid conections.


I hope that this idea should be useful for somebody.

Again, thanks POC, and thanks to which they participate in this thread and they contribute with its ideas, of all of you I have taken ideas and tips…. ....and of course, THANKS TO RAIDY !!!!

WOW! Have not seen this post before. WOW! You are a realy perfect mechanics, compliment.