spec questions please

[rockyroad]

We will see if I can ask this question right. When you put a 510 atomizer on the p-18, how far do the holes at the bottom of the atomizer go below the top of the unit? I'm trying to gauge how much juice leakage I can have before it comes oozing out the top.

Will some of you who own a p-18 please be honest and tell me if you have had any atty leakage experiences with it spilling over and down the unit. Does the next vape usually suck the excess juice from the "cup"(sry, don't know what to call it) back into the atty?

Another question on the bottom button please. How many times can I press that button before I will need to replace it? Not exact # of course but maybe something close so I could get an idea of when it may need to be replaced. I see on the site that parts are also sold...should I get an extra one of everything?
I've been looking for months for something that will last and last, I believe I have covered most all of the mods and I keep coming back here.
Would appreciate it, and now feel free to tell me what a terrible dripper I am....thanks!

by the way, I secretly visit the super t site a couple times a week...the mods are beautiful. So are all of the pics you guys have in the pictures thread. envy envy..maybe we could have a Bob wins a super T contest soon??

 

[Portugal Barry]

HI Rocky, I have a P18 and use it with a vapemate most of the time with L/r and Cisco306 attys. Honestly the first couple of days I had a few small bubbles of juice appear in the juice well, until I got used to how hard to squeeze, and they sucked straight back into the atty. since then nothing. You would need to really pour the juice in to get it to run down the mod.
As to the button wearing out I think there would be a good chance your finger will give out first. You might need a small polish on the internal screw once in a while but even that will take a few years or more to wear away.
These devices are not just put together, they are thoroughly thought out, then built from scratch with the best materials and finished to pretty much perfection.
I'm sure you will bite the bullet and join us as owners of the best e-cigs going.
Have fun,
Barry.

 

[Maz]

If you go for the all stainless option the P18 will see you dead, trust me the button will outlast you. Most you might ever need is a replacement spring..

After 5 months of owning (and using all day, every day) a stainless P16 I agree with Barry, the Precise is the best device currently on the market.

 

[leroytwohawks]

If you go for the all stainless option the P18 will see you dead, trust me the button will outlast you. Most you might ever need is a replacement spring..

+1

The switch is all mechanical, and as Maz said with the all stainless option theirs not much wear out but the spring. And David makes these things to last!

 

[rockyroad]

I'm sure you will bite the bullet and join us as owners of the best e-cigs going.
Have fun,
Barry.

how did u know I owned a silver bullet?

If you go for the all stainless option the P18 will see you dead, trust me the button will outlast you. Most you might ever need is a replacement spring..

After 5 months of owning (and using all day, every day) a stainless P16 I agree with Barry, the Precise is the best device currently on the market.

The reason for the button question is from this post from forced fuel about the shockwave.

-User replaceable mechanical snap action switch rated at 10 amps and an unreal 10,000,000 cycles!

I'm just guessing but I'll estimate about 300 button pushes a day x 365 = 109,500 pushes a year. So the shockwave button technology should last me about 91 years....but the precise bottom button looks like a totally different animal so I had to ask.

Basically what you guys are saying is this (and please correct me if I am wrong)...If I have a somewhat leaky atty on the p-18, I shouldn't worry about it because the juice well will catch it and my next vape will suck the juice back into the atty. Plus, the p-18 will last me the rest of my life, the only thing I may need to replace down the road is the spring. (of course using care not dropping and following cleaning instructions).
Is this correct? 200 bucks for device, batteries, charger etc. is a nice chunk of change (for me).

 

[forcedfuel50]

It can vary by atomizer type/brand as far as leakage and of course how much juice you put in. I have certainly read of Precise owners getting the wet hand when it overflows and flows down the side, so it' not impervious to leaks, but it does a pretty decent job. The shockwave uses a different switch. The Precise is all mechanical (metal touching metal to create a ground), so it should last quite awhile. The only real enemy of mechanical switches is oxidation, since they are not sealed, so you do have to periodically clean them and add some Noalox.

 

[rockyroad]

It can vary by atomizer type/brand as far as leakage and of course how much juice you put in. I have certainly read of Precise owners getting the wet hand when it overflows and flows down the side, so it' not impervious to leaks, but it does a pretty decent job. The shockwave uses a different switch. The Precise is all mechanical (metal touching metal to create a ground), so it should last quite awhile. The only real enemy of mechanical switches is oxidation, since they are not sealed, so you do have to periodically clean them and add some Noalox.

Does the device come with instructions on how to do that? and when you say should last quite awhile, is there any way you can put that statement into years (keeping in mind I would clean and use the Noalox every ?????how many weeks between cleaning ??? Does the p-18 come with instructions on how and when to do all the cleaning? Lot's of questions I know, but in my opinion my 200 bucks needs some specific answers please.

 

[Vaporologist]

Hey rockyroad,

I appreciate all your questions especially since I used to wonder about same things a long time ago. Just understand that it is a lot simpler than you think.

Precise is an all-mechanical device meaning that there is nothing in it that will break down. You will know when it's time to clean in when you notice it slightly dropping down in performance. You can be proactive to make sure that never happens by cleaning it every couple of weeks, wiping and reapplying the Noalox and making sure that all brass contact points are shiny. The button itself is bulletproof since there is nothing in it to break down. It wouldn't be a bad idea to purchase an extra brass screw for the button from David in case you ever felt the need to replace it. Also, I think your Precise will come with instructions on how to clean it.

Oh btw, the Precise, including the button, will last you "forever". It's made of stainless steel and will most likely outlive any of us. If you are concerned about the longevity of your investment, you are certainly on the right track by purchasing the Precise. Congrats!

 

[forcedfuel50]

Does the device come with instructions on how to do that? and when you say should last quite awhile, is there any way you can put that statement into years (keeping in mind I would clean and use the Noalox every ?????how many weeks between cleaning ??? Does the p-18 come with instructions on how and when to do all the cleaning? Lot's of questions I know, but in my opinion my 200 bucks needs some specific answers please.

As far as what i meant by "lasting quite awhile", the switch isn't the weak link in a mechanical mod, the atomizer threads in the top cap (where the atomizer screws into the top) are the weak area on any PV.
My experience has taught me Aluminum is not suitable for use in this area on a mod.

I used to make the T1 and some of the early S6 PV's of the highest grade aluminum available, but it still would only allow for a life of 3 -12 months on average when used on a regular basis, before the atomizer threads would wear out of the top. Even the best grades of Aluminum are just too soft, brass is only marginally better (though i sell brass tops for the looks, i personally don't recommend them).


All Precises are now available in Stainless Steel, my experience has taught me it's the only acceptable metal to use in the top cap atomizer area. I've had Stainless Steel Precises out in the field now for almost a year and half and never had one strip. So to answer your question, estimated life is still to be determined, but it has a lifetime warranty so you are covered.

Yes, it comes with instructions, i also have a youtube video of how to clean and I'll have to find the link for you.

Time between cleaning? I recommmend every couple of weeks between cleaning. It easily dis-assembles in seconds to clean and reassembles just as quickly, no tools needed.


Hope that helps,

David

 

[juicefreak]

lifetime warranty on all stainless P series, so no worries. I picked up extra parts so i could service it myself.

barry - what's the squeeze method to get juice from the well back up into the atty? CE2 clearomizers make a real mess, but it's not the fault of the P18. they can fall apart in your hand the great thing is no juice will ever leak into the battery compartment if it happens.

reminded me guys = it's time for a noalox'n

 

[rockyroad]

Sry it took so long to get back (work) Thanks for the comments u guys as I feel more confident about the longevity of the p-18. The leaky issue part..well..it must be a little better than my s.b. because it is not recessed at all. Just wish I could get an idea of how much the reservoir would hold. 1 drop, 2 drops, in case the juice did come out through the holes. I guess not a huge deal(that's a fib).

Part 2 so please bare with me again. I don't own any high drain batteries but keep reading how well they work and how it makes 3.7 feel a bit more like 4.0 (just what I've read). I basically only use two methods for vaping. 3.7 l.r. atty and 6.4 cartomizer. I use the TR18650 2400 mAh 3.7...wait, no I don't. I have them but don't use l.r. on my s.b. anymore because of leaking. So for l.r. atty all I've been using lately is the ego. I use two rcr123A 3.2 volt batteries with cartomizer on the s.b. and these really pack a punch. I like 6.4 better than 6.0 but would probably prefer 6.2.

Are there high drain 3.0 batteries to stack that have a good amount of vape time..whatever mAh that might feel more like 6.2? and what are they called? Same with 3.7, high drain and the more the mAh the merrier. Also, I already have two chargers, do they make a charger that would work with both the 3.7 and 3.0 high drain batteries? or deal with 4 battery chargers

 

[Portugal Barry]

lifetime warranty on all stainless P series, so no worries. I picked up extra parts so i could service it myself.

barry - what's the squeeze method to get juice from the well back up into the atty? CE2 clearomizers make a real mess, but it's not the fault of the P18. they can fall apart in your hand the great thing is no juice will ever leak into the battery compartment if it happens.

reminded me guys = it's time for a noalox'n

Hi Jf,
the squeeze does not get the juice back into the atty it's the squeeze that puts it there, if you do it a bit hard it floods so you have to learn how hard to press to get just the right amount. I havent worked out how to get any excess back yet other than a good suck (Can't belive I just said that!) which I wouldn't recomend!
Have fun.
Barry

 

[rockyroad]

OK I guess that was too confusing so I'll ask it this way. Are all AW batteries high drain? for example : this one...

This one says ( on your site ) that it's high drain, but it doesn't say that on the battery, so does the IMR mean high drain or what?

is 1600 mAh the highest mAh I can buy in a high drain for 3.7? and will this one fit the precise 18650.

I'm just trying to figure out what to buy for the precise 18650. I would like the highest mAh, high drain, at 3.7. I don't know if they make high drain for 6 volt vaping or not. Will my tenergy rcr123A 3.2 v fit the precise 18650?

 

[forcedfuel50]

OK I guess that was too confusing so I'll ask it this way. Are all AW batteries high drain? for example : this one...

This one says ( on your site ) that it's high drain, but it doesn't say that on the battery, so does the IMR mean high drain or what?

is 1600 mAh the highest mAh I can buy in a high drain for 3.7? and will this one fit the precise 18650.

I'm just trying to figure out what to buy for the precise 18650. I would like the highest mAh, high drain, at 3.7. I don't know if they make high drain for 6 volt vaping or not. Will my tenergy rcr123A 3.2 v fit the precise 18650?

Yes, the IMR's are high drain, where as the top one (P18650) is not a high drain, however, when using an 18650, a high drain isn't necessary as P18650 (2600 or 2900mAh) battery puts out more than enough amperage to drive a low resistace atomizer and many report getting more vape time out of them. Always leary of subjective opinions, i even tested an IMR VS. Protected with a temperature probe inside the atomizer, both gave identical temperature readings when activated.

 

[rockyroad]

Thanks for the response David. finally lol..at this rate it's going to be a week before I find out what I need to know but that's OK, I've waited this long (been stalking this thing for way too long) a few more days won't kill me.
So the high drain does nothing for a better oomph from a l.r. atty on an 18650. Good to know that. I'll just go for the 2900 mAh then for 3.7.
I know your a busy guy but still, if I could get these answered I'll make a decision.

1. I would still like to know how far the bottom atty holes screw down in past the top of the unit? or how far does the atty connecter recess?

2. Will the Tenergy 3.2v I have for my s.b. work in the precise? They are a year old so is there something better for 6 volt vaping now? should I stick with AW all around?

3. May I have a link for the You-Tube video on the maintenance of a precise 18650 please?

I think that's it!!

 

[forcedfuel50]

Thanks for the response David. finally lol..at this rate it's going to be a week before I find out what I need to know but that's OK, I've waited this long (been stalking this thing for way too long) a few more days won't kill me.
So the high drain does nothing for a better oomph from a l.r. atty on an 18650. Good to know that. I'll just go for the 2900 mAh then for 3.7.
I know your a busy guy but still, if I could get these answered I'll make a decision.

1. I would still like to know how far the bottom atty holes screw down in past the top of the unit? or how far does the atty connecter recess?

2. Will the Tenergy 3.2v I have for my s.b. work in the precise? They are a year old so is there something better for 6 volt vaping now? should I stick with AW all around?

3. May I have a link for the You-Tube video on the maintenance of a precise 18650 please?

I think that's it!!

1. The main atomizer body is recessed just past flush and the side atomizer air holes are just below the main atomizer body:

2. Tenergy' are a good quality battery and will work, I also recommend the AW LIfeP04 123 battery found here near the bottom of the page: Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products.

3. Care and cleaning video. Please note, it most cases, it is not necessary to use sandpaper, a chemical cleaner or soap, warm water and toothbrush suffices: YouTube - ‪Precise Electronic Cigarette Care and Maintenance‬‏

Hope that helps!

David

 

[rockyroad]

It does David and thanks for your time and patience.

 

[juicefreak]

Hi Jf,
the squeeze does not get the juice back into the atty it's the squeeze that puts it there, if you do it a bit hard it floods so you have to learn how hard to press to get just the right amount. I havent worked out how to get any excess back yet other than a good suck (Can't belive I just said that!) which I wouldn't recomend!
Have fun.
Barry

lol barry! i thought you came up with a cool technique so i wouldn't have to drip so often

 

[juicefreak]

rockyroad, all i use are LR atty's and i get about an even 24 hrs out of any 18650 battery. i have david's awr black 2600 (i think) and some gray ultrafires. same life and good hit throughout the day. the only difference i notice with the awr's is when they are out of juice, they stop, where the ultrafire's give less intense hits, but still have life in them. when they dwindle in the slightest, i swap them b/c there is always a fresh one on the charger.

 

[Portugal Barry]

Also rockyroad, to help solve your 'Dripping problem' try googling 'Drip Shield ecig' it might be the answer to your problem and it looks good on the Precise.