Steamcrave Hadron Issues- resistance reading

[PeterKay]

Hi, just testing my new Hadron mod with glaz v2 rta. The problem I'm having is that every time I press the fire button, resistance changes (and voltage ofc). It goes anywhere from 0.14ohm to 0.38ohm with just one click. Fires every time.
vaping at 91W, dual coils I'm using: quad core fused clapton 28ga/35ga ni80 by Dovpo, wick is canna cotton.
What coul be possibly causing that?
Mod is brand new, 510 connection spotless

 

[hazozita]

@PeterKay Even though the Hadron should read and set the resistance automatically when you're not in TC mode (which you're not since you're using Ni80) sometimes it doesn't. You can force it to read and set the resistance by pressing and holding the middle button. It takes a few seconds -- hold it down until a message pops up on the screen with the resistance value.

It could also be the Glaz -- check to see if it also has varying resistance on another mod to make sure it's a Hadron issue and not a Glaz issue.

If the Glaz checks out on another mod and manually setting the resistance doesn't solve the issue you may have a defective mod. On the plus side, Steamcrave is usually pretty good with dealing with warranty issues.

 

[PeterKay]

@PeterKay Even though the Hadron should read and set the resistance automatically when you're not in TC mode (which you're not since you're using Ni80) sometimes it doesn't. You can force it to read and set the resistance by pressing and holding the middle button. It takes a few seconds -- hold it down until a message pops up on the screen with the resistance value.

It could also be the Glaz -- check to see if it also has varying resistance on another mod to make sure it's a Hadron issue and not a Glaz issue.

If the Glaz checks out on another mod and manually setting the resistance doesn't solve the issue you may have a defective mod. On the plus side, Steamcrave is usually pretty good with dealing with warranty issues.

Thanks, I've tried both, no luck. Started to experiment- put the glaz on pico squeeze 2- it showed 0.17ohm. It fired, no changes in resistance. Put an rda (wismec tobinho) on hadron- slight changes when firing but in 0.01 range (0.18-0.20) and changes happened less often. Put another rda on hadron (sahara rda)- constant reading, just as it should (0.11ohm). So both seemed alright separately....

I found the issue though, thanks to my Smok Majesty Luxe mod. I popped the Glaz on it, it read the resistance as something around 0.23. Tried to fire- boom, atty short. So i opened up the glaz, checked if coils weren't touching anything, wick was all over the place so I tidied it up. Back on Smok- same story, atty short.
So I grabbed a bloody screwdriver and tightened the 510 pin on the glaz. Guess what- a miracle! Smok fired it, and now it works fine on the Hadron at a steady 0.12ohm.

Neither Hadron nor Pico Squeeze 2 detected the loose pin in a way it should. I definitely gained some respect towards Smok- the mod is old technology, not necessarily a thing of beauty, has its flaws, but at least it does what it's supposed to.

 

[Mordacai]

Glad to hear that you've sorted out the issue @PeterKay, I've got to retrofit the screws on my Glaz's myself at some point. As I've noticed that the one that holds negative post assembly of the deck to the RDA isn't exactly great, so I think that I'll be searching Amazon or local fastening suppliers for some decent A2 (SS316L) machine screws.

I still don't get the 3 airflow slots on the metal top cap though, as it doesn't exactly play nice with the airflow under the coils.

Oh, and a bit better explaination of resistance setting with the Hadron's YiHi chipset.

Press middle button when atomiser is cold to read resistance.

Top button to increase value, bottom to decrease value.

Press fire button to lock resistance.

And at some point you've got to get hold of some Stainless Steel coils to try out with TC, I can give you some help setting it up with you then. It's worth trying out at least once.

 

[PeterKay]

I still don't get the 3 airflow slots on the metal top cap though, as it doesn't exactly play nice with the airflow under the coils.

3 airflow slots on the metal top cap? I don't have that

 

[PeterKay]

Press middle button when atomiser is cold to read resistance.

Top button to increase value, bottom to decrease value.

Press fire button to lock resistance.

I don't understand to be honest: if a coil is, for example, 0.18, why would I want to change the resistance? Are there any benefits of doing it?

 

[PeterKay]

And at some point you've got to get hold of some Stainless Steel coils to try out with TC, I can give you some help setting it up with you then. It's worth trying out at least once.

Thanks, that would be great. I haven't tried TC a single time yet, I've 0 experience with it. Let me check if I have any SS coils, I might have ordered some a while ago. I definitely have SS MTL coils from vandy vape but maybe I ordered bigger coils as well

 

[Mordacai]

No worries, drop me a message when you've found things.

 

[Mordacai]

I don't understand to be honest: if a coil is, for example, 0.18, why would I want to change the resistance? Are there any benefits of doing it?

This I'm not too sure of myself, as each mod will read the resistance differently.

 

[PeterKay]

This I'm not too sure of myself, as each mod will read the resistance differently.

Even the coils are not always super consistent. I saw some manufacturers leaving notes that coils are rated for example for 0.20 but in some cases may ohm out at 0.17. Also ohms change over time. I've never seen this option on other mods, it basically allows you to set your mod into incorrect configuration for the build you have in the atty. But I might be wrong, maybe someone knows of any benefits of that and could point them out

 

[PeterKay]

No worries, drop me a message when you've found things.

I was right. Got a pack of tri core fused claptons by coilology, 3mm and 0.33ohm, SS316L

 

[AngeNZ]

Thanks, I've tried both, no luck. Started to experiment- put the glaz on pico squeeze 2- it showed 0.17ohm. It fired, no changes in resistance. Put an rda (wismec tobinho) on hadron- slight changes when firing but in 0.01 range (0.18-0.20) and changes happened less often. Put another rda on hadron (sahara rda)- constant reading, just as it should (0.11ohm). So both seemed alright separately....

I found the issue though, thanks to my Smok Majesty Luxe mod. I popped the Glaz on it, it read the resistance as something around 0.23. Tried to fire- boom, atty short. So i opened up the glaz, checked if coils weren't touching anything, wick was all over the place so I tidied it up. Back on Smok- same story, atty short.
So I grabbed a bloody screwdriver and tightened the 510 pin on the glaz. Guess what- a miracle! Smok fired it, and now it works fine on the Hadron at a steady 0.12ohm.

Neither Hadron nor Pico Squeeze 2 detected the loose pin in a way it should. I definitely gained some respect towards Smok- the mod is old technology, not necessarily a thing of beauty, has its flaws, but at least it does what it's supposed to.

You did fantastic at diagnosing that problem. I've had the same problem, and after reinstalling the coil twice - thinking a loose leg was causing the fluctuations, I eventually did this and a few times and tightened up the bloody loose 510 pin

 

[PeterKay]

@Mordacai @AngeNZ How are you enjoying the flavor from Glaz V2?

 

[AngeNZ]

@Mordacai @AngeNZ How are you enjoying the flavor from Glaz V2?

I don't have the Glaz v2 RDA. Sorry I meant that I've had your problem on a different RDA

 

[Mordacai]

It's not bad, just makes liquid dissapear too fast. But I try to get as much of the airflow directed under the coils.

Also I need some machine screws for the negative post assembly, the ones installed and provided as spares aren't of great quality. But swapping them out for something better is easy enough, might also change the grub screws as well to be sure.

After all, proper job!

 

[PeterKay]

It's not bad, just makes liquid dissapear too fast.

haha true I went through 2 full tanks in about 5h

 

[PeterKay]

It's not bad, just makes liquid dissapear too fast. But I try to get as much of the airflow directed under the coils.

Also I need some machine screws for the negative post assembly, the ones installed and provided as spares aren't of great quality. But swapping them out for something better is easy enough, might also change the grub screws as well to be sure.

After all, proper job!

I don't like that glass chimney at all, I think this atty will stay in the house, definitely not something you'd like to drop outside. And I don't have a spare anymore, I broke one when I was "testing" the tolerance of o-rings without juicing them up first... fail

 

[PeterKay]

It's not bad

Exactly my thoughts. Not bad, but not mind blowing either. I think I'll stick with BF RDA's in the future

 

[Mordacai]

This is one reason that I want to fix what issues I can with it, I just wished that Steam Crave hadn't put 3 airflow slots in the metal top cap. As I think that it's something that no other manufacturer has ever done.

 

[Mordacai]

Also just checked and the Noble RDA is out, as it's a dripper with no Squonk pin.