Still new but i want to step it up

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Hi all. still new to the forum but i have been reading alot of the new member stuff. i have been vaping for about a month with a rare real Cig. i really want to cut them out completly but im just not getting the flavor out of my EV that i want. there is a guy that works in my office building that builds his own and pointed my to this forum. i want to get his advise but we work in different dept and rarely cross paths. i have a eGo-C Twist and a kanga aero(?) tank. what is the next logical step to upgrade?
Thanks in advanced
 

Blargaha

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Sep 3, 2014
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Getting a battery with higher mah would be one thing you could upgrade, assuming you're using the eGo-C Twist I found when I googled it at 650 mah. Another would obviously be the tank.

I got myself a starter kit with EVOD Twist batteries at 1300 mah which are really nice, but maybe you're looking for something other than a pen battery? Can't help you there I'm afraid, I'm still relatively new myself. I decided I'd upgrade my clearomizer first and today I finally got my Aspire Nautilus Mini and I couldn't be happier. It looks extremely good, the steel driptip is much nicer than the plastic on my T3S and I don't think I could ever go back to vaping on something without airflow control. The taste is excellent as is the vapor production. With a glass tank you also don't have to be careful with what juices you put in it since it can't crack like plastic can.
 

Msand

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I'm about a month in myself, but from what I have read on here. most wouls suggest going with an iTaste vv v3, or MVP2 with a Aspire Nautilus mini (BVC coil) setup. I have the vv v3 and love it. variable wattage is where it is at. so nice to just switch a tank and not care about the volts. I have not used the Aspire tanks. so i can't speak to them. I have 2 kanger aero tanks. love both, but i am personally looking for more flavor, so will be starting to rebuild my coils.Welcome to the site. Loads of good info here.
 

Msand

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so as soon as i saw your post i stared googling almost every thing haha. im very interested in the vv v3. but what is the difference between wattage and voltage? i know on my c twist i can adjust the voltage but not wattage.

I am still a rookie, but i am trying to learn all of this stuff. With that being said. When you put the vv v3 in Wattage mode it uses Ohms law to calculate the voltage for you. So if you have to separate tanks. with different Ohm coils. You can just switch them and not have to change the voltage, since it does the adjustment for you.
 

XBarbarian

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volts are part of the equation that manages the watts. the watts, like a light bulb, is the level of heat at the coil. higher watts light bulbs burn hotter, make more light.

mostly true with vaping, although there is a threshold. personally, I don't like the vapor to be too hot, so I don't go for crazy watts.

welcome to the forum. there is so much to learn here, and a wonderful community to support you!
 

geekmedic

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Sooo immediately after posting last, my wife walks in and being the amazing woman she is she stopped on her way home to get the iTaste. Well they didn't have any and sold her a vision spinner 2 1600 mAh with out a cherger. What is the difference between the two and should I keep it or return it for the iTaste?

IMHO! Return it!
While it has more mAh (the size of your fuel tank) than the itazte it is VV and not VW. For me VW is where it is at. If you are looking for longevity keep it, it should last you all day (YMMV). The VV can be used as a passthrough devise and as long as you have UBS power (remember your cell phone charger, [unlimited fuel capacity]), you are set. I never appreciated vaping until I switched over to VW vs VV (while I had the option with my own VV available). I realize it only a matter of perception whne I put the same tank and juice on a VW devise and then on to a VV devise the taste is not the same to me.

Just my $0.02

BTW if your GF got that for you on her own she is a keeper! Hope you have a charger for what she got you though.
 

Stayhat3rfree

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Sep 5, 2014
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I think the itaste vv v3 is about 800mah I think (dont quote me) I have had mine for a few weeks now & I love it. If you tend to chain vape at times (like myself) then I would get 2 of them just so u can always just swap them out. Or just go for the MVP 2 which I think is 2100 mah. I rock a protank 3 mini on my itaste vv v3 & love it. I actually heard you can rock the kayfun mini on a itaste vv v3 I don't know how true it is but I ordered one for around $20 to find out
 
IMHO! Return it!
While it has more mAh (the size of your fuel tank) than the itazte it is VV and not VW. For me VW is where it is at. If you are looking for longevity keep it, it should last you all day (YMMV). The VV can be used as a passthrough devise and as long as you have UBS power (remember your cell phone charger, [unlimited fuel capacity]), you are set. I never appreciated vaping until I switched over to VW vs VV (while I had the option with my own VV available). I realize it only a matter of perception whne I put the same tank and juice on a VW devise and then on to a VV devise the taste is not the same to me.

Just my $0.02

BTW if your GF got that for you on her own she is a keeper! Hope you have a charger for what she got you though.
Yea. I've been reading lots of reviews and it's going back. I have a ego c twist VV I'd really like to get the iTaste. I'm kinda mad that she showed them a text with a picture and exact name and they said that the spinner was the same thing...
 
I'm only a week into vaping but have researched like crazy (seeing as it help me quit pretty easily, I wanted to go all out).

I would honestly suggest the MVP 2.0 if you don't mind box mods, or the VTR if you want to spend a little more and have removable battery.
The mvp are a bit out of the price range.
 

CptJYossarian

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The VV v3 is the little brother of the MVP2 (which I love). If you want more battery, get the MVP2.

About wattage: A watt is a unit of power. It's joules (energy) per second (time). So when you see something rated in watts, that's how much power it puts out per second. For instance, a 1200 Watt hairdryer creates 1200 joules of energy per second.

This is used to measure the effective work of devices. For instance, in light bulbs it's the energy is used to make a filament glow - the more wattage the brighter. In a hair dryer the energy is used to heat a resistor, which a fan then blows at you. The more wattage, the hotter it gets. In the case of e-cigs, the wattage is used to heat the coils, more heat means the juice is vaporized faster.

Wattage is calculated as follows in the case of e-cigs: V^2 / R. So the voltage of your device (let's say you set it to 5 V on your VV v3) divided by the resistance of your coil (let's say you're using the prebuilt 1.8 ohm Kanger coils) equals about 13.89 watts. Now for a newbie this may be considered a hot vape, but for the "crazy" guys out there who chase mech mods (myself included) I find most of my builds around 65 watts; just to put things in perspective.

If you're looking into the Kayfun, I reccomend you grab an Igo-W first just to get practice building your coils. Use your VV device with this at first as it will prevent itself from firing if you have a short/build too low of a resistance. Just safer that way.

If you still want a "better" experience, then start get your Kayfun.

Do research tho, the world of mechs is awesome and fun and deep but DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING.

Happy vaping!
 
The VV v3 is the little brother of the MVP2 (which I love). If you want more battery, get the MVP2.

About wattage: A watt is a unit of power. It's joules (energy) per second (time). So when you see something rated in watts, that's how much power it puts out per second. For instance, a 1200 Watt hairdryer creates 1200 joules of energy per second.

This is used to measure the effective work of devices. For instance, in light bulbs it's the energy is used to make a filament glow - the more wattage the brighter. In a hair dryer the energy is used to heat a resistor, which a fan then blows at you. The more wattage, the hotter it gets. In the case of e-cigs, the wattage is used to heat the coils, more heat means the juice is vaporized faster.

Wattage is calculated as follows in the case of e-cigs: V^2 / R. So the voltage of your device (let's say you set it to 5 V on your VV v3) divided by the resistance of your coil (let's say you're using the prebuilt 1.8 ohm Kanger coils) equals about 13.89 watts. Now for a newbie this may be considered a hot vape, but for the "crazy" guys out there who chase mech mods (myself included) I find most of my builds around 65 watts; just to put things in perspective.

If you're looking into the Kayfun, I reccomend you grab an Igo-W first just to get practice building your coils. Use your VV device with this at first as it will prevent itself from firing if you have a short/build too low of a resistance. Just safer that way.

If you still want a "better" experience, then start get your Kayfun.

Do research tho, the world of mechs is awesome and fun and deep but DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING.

Happy vaping!
That was probably the most informative thing I've read all day. Thanks a bunch, it definitely put things into perspective for me! After looking at 101vapes I am going to get the mvp. It's the same price as the VV V3 that I was looking at in the store. Sure I have to wait a few days but for a deal like that it's definitely worth it. Super glad I joined this forum it's going to save me money in the long run and keep me from stinking so more mommy and daddy time with the wife! Haha I will definitely be posting more.
 

DingerCPA

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To augment what CptJ explained, even though the *MATH* calculates out to 13.89 Watts, YOUR DEVICE may not be able to produce that amount of power. The MVP and the VV3 cap out at 11.0W. So, the combination offered will "work", but not at the calculated power output. (Volts will automatically be adjusted downwards to meet the 11.0 watt limit.)

You also need to factor in the AMPS that your battery can deliver. Ohm's Law V=IR (Volts = Amps * Resistance) is also necessary to consider because you have to make sure that your battery can deliver. Using the above numbers (and flipping the equation to solve for Amps) the current draw will be 2.7777777 (5.0/1.8). This "technically" is within the limits of the MVP/VV3 (which I believe limits at 3.0 A)

When you start considering rebuilding coils, you MUST know the limitations of your devices. Get an ohmmeter (there are bunches all over which will read the resistance of the built coil.) There's a gent out here named Baditude who has some incredibly informative blogs about battery safety and stepping up from "starter" devices.

Read up on battery safety. There are certain compositions which are preferred over others. Also need to look at Amp limitations to make sure you don't overdrive and potentially blow the battery/device. In the above example, for 65W builds, I'm going to guess about a .5 ohm coil.

Watt's Law: W = V^2/R. V = sqrt(65 * 0.5) = 5.7. Applying Ohm's Law, V = IR, solving for I, Amps = 5.7/0.5 = 11.4 Amps. You must make sure your batteries can SAFELY deliver the required amount of current to fire that coil.

Also have to look at battery life. VV3 is 800maH; MVP is 2600maH. basically means that MVP would last about 3 times longer before needing to recharge.

I have both VV3s and MVP2s. I'm not into sub-ohmming (yet?) I like running my 1.8 ohm coils around 10W....

I'm sure by now, a bunch of other people have responded, so if any of my ramblings are repeats, please forgive!

Good luck -- read up and be INFORMED before you jump in feet first. Define what it is you "want" (which after 6 months, I'm *STILL* doing :) )
 
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