Even when you used just the thin wire screw head at the base of the cap?
Stock pile?
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Even when you used just the thin wire screw head at the base of the cap?
I wind on "jeweler's" screwdrivers, of various diameters, but from what I've read about the Kuro's and similar, that's from pressing down while turning. Just let it ride
If the chit ever hits the fan I'll just quit. Though I've been at it for a while I don't care that much, I've stood up and simply walked out, never looking back at much more important things.
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I'm a huge Kayfun fan also but lately I've been using these also. $13.26 SXK Nebula Wine Tank RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - authentic / 5ml / stainless steel + glass / 22mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping Can change the coil out without emptying the tank and the deck is even easier to build on then the Kayfun.
Yep - the iSub Apex. I'm RTA build challenged, but this was an easy build!
Just got mine a couple of days ago and it's great - zero leakage, easy to build (comes with directions!) and excellent flavor! Top fill, too.
Innokin iSub RBA Rebuildable Atomizer Kit
Lot of people on here with stocks I started a few months back so bit late to the party but got 3 litres of 72mg nic in the freezer will have 7-10 by the time things happen bought some more tanks as anything over 2ml and guaranteed leak free will be prohibited this May. Got a smallish stash of 12 regulated mods and my Dimitri mech by the time I'm done will have around 20 tanks and that should last me and the missus a good few years. Just so stupid we have too because profit comes before people
I find the Kayfun Lite bottom fill screw very easy to use. And I added top fill caps to two 3.1s.
Coils and wicks last so long that rebuilding is never a tank-emptying emergency.
And to the OP's question, Yes. Lots of RTAs, Kayfuns mostly. 6 of my favorite RDAs. Mechanicals, fixed battery mods, a couple of replaceable-battery mods. I plan on picking up a few more replaceable battery PVs in the next few months. Nicotine - goes without saying.
All I need to buy on-going will be VG, PG, menthol flavoring and batteries. Maybe another roll of Kanthal eventually.
I have 10 years worth of nicotine base in my freezer.
And another 10 years worth for my sister and brother-in-law who aren't as informed as I am.
I also have around 180 of the 510 atomizers that I use for dripping.
If devices with 510 connectors go away, I might be hosed.
But other than that, I'm good for a very long time.
Regardless, I continue to fight against the crap that is constantly being thrown our way.
It's the right thing to do, and I always try to do the right thing as time permits.
And another 10 years worth for my sister and brother-in-law who aren't as informed as I am.
I also have around 180 of the 510 atomizers that I use for dripping.
If devices with 510 connectors go away, I might be hosed.
But other than that, I'm good for a very long time.
Regardless, I continue to fight against the crap that is constantly being thrown our way.
It's the right thing to do, and I always try to do the right thing as time permits.
Better price over here Kayfun Lite Plus V2 Dual Airflow Clone by EHPro Yes, to stocking up on them.
$7.00? That's insane. I think I paid as much for some of the rebuild kits I bought back when was into Kayfuns (spare insulators, o-rings, screws). I'd probably still be into Kayfuns if I hadn't discovered bottom-feeding. Tanks are a pain. But if someone likes tanks, it's kinda hard to go wrong with a KFL+.
Should I buy 15 of them and call it a day?
Just in case you're wondering, yes I am serious.
No
You should buy one or two to test if it works for you.
Then buy 15 or 50
Should I buy 15 of them and call it a day?
Just in case you're wondering, yes I am serious.
I've been using nothing but various KF types (3.1, Lite, V2) for the last year and a half. And very satisfied with them. But I recently got the bug to try something new, and there were great clearance sales, so I picked up 8 Orchids and 8 KF V4s. Also picked up 1 more 3.1 and 2 of the EH + V2s. I've never tried any of the new-fangled tanks out there, so I don't know if there's really anything better, but I'm content with what I have.
I just built one of the KF V4s this morning. I think I'm happy that I got 8.
Was never able to wrap a decent 28 gauge coil with kuro coil jig.
I'm still looking at all the tanks suggest but I'm leaning towards the kanger sub mini
I would recommend
If you're a beginner get a Kayfun for a mouth to lung hit
A Kayfun Monster If you like lung hits
After experience try an Orchid, Goblin Mini or Silverplay Nano.
My vapocalypse topper plan is mostly drippers because they are simple, can be cheap, and there are fewer parts to fail. I like Provari 2.5's because they are very reliable and can be had new for $75-79 direct from Provape. I'd rather vape a P3 or Radius but they are expensive to back up.
For a good dripper on a Provari P2.5 it is important to get one designed for single coiling (the air flow cap will have 3 slots, and can be positioned sp that one of the usually two coil positions can be blocked off).
I started by buying 3 or 4 Troll drippers, and they can be had (authentic) for under $20. Then I started to like Royal Hunters and bought three of them, then I decided I like Royal Hunter Minis so I'm accumulating a few of them. When I find something I like, and is cheap, I buy 3 or 4 total.
I have a KFL+ clone that is the least favorite of all my toppers. Just not enough air flow. And the V4 is way too complex for a vapocalypse solution. I like Kanger Sub-tank Minis, and spare RBA decks can be bought for about $6 each. I think the RBA deck is the most failure prone part (and I have killed one or two already). It's an easy build, with lots of room on the deck. I'm happy with the results at 14W or less on a Provari 2.5. I like my Kabuki better at 14W or less but it isn't rebuildable.
I don't worry about stockpiling Kanthal coil wire. That is an industrial item that can be bought outside of vape shops. Like here: Kanthal A1. Same with cotton.
I think @Bonnie C needs to concentrate on deciding on a final source for nic. It can take a couple of months to get comfortable enough with 100mg concentrate and comfortable with a particular supplier. Then fill the freezer. If you have 3 vapers to protect, I would figure on a liter or two for each.
A lot of tax schemes that have been proposed or implemented would easily tax a liter of concentrated nic at $1000, and if concentrated nic is taken off the market then the tax rises to as much as $30,000 or more (I'll be happy to run sample numbers).
For a good dripper on a Provari P2.5 it is important to get one designed for single coiling (the air flow cap will have 3 slots, and can be positioned sp that one of the usually two coil positions can be blocked off).
I started by buying 3 or 4 Troll drippers, and they can be had (authentic) for under $20. Then I started to like Royal Hunters and bought three of them, then I decided I like Royal Hunter Minis so I'm accumulating a few of them. When I find something I like, and is cheap, I buy 3 or 4 total.
I have a KFL+ clone that is the least favorite of all my toppers. Just not enough air flow. And the V4 is way too complex for a vapocalypse solution. I like Kanger Sub-tank Minis, and spare RBA decks can be bought for about $6 each. I think the RBA deck is the most failure prone part (and I have killed one or two already). It's an easy build, with lots of room on the deck. I'm happy with the results at 14W or less on a Provari 2.5. I like my Kabuki better at 14W or less but it isn't rebuildable.
I don't worry about stockpiling Kanthal coil wire. That is an industrial item that can be bought outside of vape shops. Like here: Kanthal A1. Same with cotton.
I think @Bonnie C needs to concentrate on deciding on a final source for nic. It can take a couple of months to get comfortable enough with 100mg concentrate and comfortable with a particular supplier. Then fill the freezer
. If you have 3 vapers to protect, I would figure on a liter or two for each.A lot of tax schemes that have been proposed or implemented would easily tax a liter of concentrated nic at $1000, and if concentrated nic is taken off the market then the tax rises to as much as $30,000 or more (I'll be happy to run sample numbers).
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