So what was the end all to be all with these issues? I still have it..... tried nooxide .... same issues with the battery level indicator..... rebooting at about 3.6 volts. Has evolved chimed in? I see people with zna and Hana having the same issues, so, it must be dna issue I would think.
Strange DNA30 battery level behavior... anyone seen this?
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So what was the end all to be all with these issues? I still have it..... tried nooxide .... same issues with the battery level indicator..... rebooting at about 3.6 volts. Has evolved chimed in? I see people with zna and Hana having the same issues, so, it must be dna issue I would think.
Not to sound like a smart azz but I chimed in a few pages back and explained how the DNA boards do battery readings.
The DNA does not monitor battery voltage per se, it uses calculations based on your current wattage setting. It will give you an estimation of battery level remaining. It will however shut off if the voltage is a not within the exceptable range to operate the DNA device.
This was explained from evolv directly. Its the nature off the beast.
Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2
The DNA does not monitor battery voltage per se, it uses calculations based on your current wattage setting. It will give you an estimation of battery level remaining. It will however shut off if the voltage is a not within the exceptable range to operate the DNA device.
This was explained from evolv directly. Its the nature off the beast.
Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2
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I had that problem til i started using a button top converter piece. The one twisted used in his video, was my mod so you can see what it looks like there. They are cheap and it eliminated that problem for me, so maybe mine was the contacts not touching the battery enough or kept moving around.
Well all of my issues started again and now it won't fire it just keeps saying check atomizer, so I took the p o s apart and here's what's up!
the - and + are cold solderd and the 510 center pin wire on the board is completely falling off, the solder didn't stick to the board! I busted out the old iron and fixed all 3 and now it hits twice as hard and the battery lasts to 3.5v
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the - and + are cold solderd and the 510 center pin wire on the board is completely falling off, the solder didn't stick to the board! I busted out the old iron and fixed all 3 and now it hits twice as hard and the battery lasts to 3.5v Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
GAH I finally found a thread for this. Pretty much having the same issue. Using a gun metal 650 tube. Full one moment, dead the next. Damned thing also kept restarting. All my threads are squeaky clean.
In any case I did smth really simple and it's been working flawlessly for a day and a half on a AW IMR
1) battery cap
2) remove the spring (pops out and back in super easily)
3) used 99% isopropanol + qtip and wiped the crap outta the inside and the spring
4) pop spring back in and made sure it's all the way in and snug
Major face palm moment. So simple. To be fair it's only worked for a day and a half, so I'll hafta see if this is actually a solution or just luck. But I've never gone through more than an hour without this stupid issue prior to this
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In any case I did smth really simple and it's been working flawlessly for a day and a half on a AW IMR
1) battery cap
2) remove the spring (pops out and back in super easily)
3) used 99% isopropanol + qtip and wiped the crap outta the inside and the spring
4) pop spring back in and made sure it's all the way in and snug
Major face palm moment. So simple. To be fair it's only worked for a day and a half, so I'll hafta see if this is actually a solution or just luck. But I've never gone through more than an hour without this stupid issue prior to this
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I switched over to using Sony VTC5's in my ZNA and it seems to have resolved the issue. I will have to test it further though because I have not really been using my ZNA that much lately.
Did you sand down the delrin, or did your unit work with the flat top battery naturally? Mine just doesn't work unfortunately
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If you look at the specs for the DNA30 you'll note it has a voltage range of 4V-8.3V.
Looking at your numbers, .7Ω/17W, we see 3.45V. It is below the threshold that is needed to actually regulate. You are now in bypass mode so basically it is functioning like a mech, just running straight off the battery.
You would need to run a .7Ω load at ~25W to actually put the DNA at a voltage (4.18v) that will in fact allow it to regulate.
This thread has really helped me.
To summarize from what I've gathered, if you do not want to use any kind of contact paste, you should probably clean all the contacts with isopropyl alcohol, which is okay on metal. Clean all the contacts, including threads and the inside of the screw cap. I also cleaned the battery tops and bottoms. I noticed it did make a difference and the kleenex had a lot of black on it after the cleaning process - so I am presuming all that material was interfering with the power.
Once you do that, the coil resistance, wattage level and battery type and size, combined with use will dictate vape time.
The battery display is an estimate of remaining vape battery time based on estimates from the processor in the DNA30, and is not actually a measure of the battery level itself.
Did I miss anything?
To summarize from what I've gathered, if you do not want to use any kind of contact paste, you should probably clean all the contacts with isopropyl alcohol, which is okay on metal. Clean all the contacts, including threads and the inside of the screw cap. I also cleaned the battery tops and bottoms. I noticed it did make a difference and the kleenex had a lot of black on it after the cleaning process - so I am presuming all that material was interfering with the power.
Once you do that, the coil resistance, wattage level and battery type and size, combined with use will dictate vape time.
The battery display is an estimate of remaining vape battery time based on estimates from the processor in the DNA30, and is not actually a measure of the battery level itself.
Did I miss anything?
I also have a ZNA and the only time I've seen that was when I first got it and was trying to run EFest 18500 batteries. Once I got real AW IMR 18490's that issue never showed up again...
I would think it must be a contact/resistance issue instead of it being the board. Now my dna30 is not a zna or a hana I built it myself using dual vtc5's and during my testing phase of the prototype I wanted to know the battery levels charged and dead. I vaped that thing for 4 days until I ran the vtc5's down low enough that the dna30 would do its classic reset/reboot. After opening it up and checking the standing voltage I got my vtc5's all the way down to 3.38v
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Just wanted to mention that i was having this problem with my WAE II, battery level not actual and the constant reboot after not long period of gaping; what solved my issue was a good polish of the contacts (brass in my case) and clean the threads, at first i was thinking it was cause i was not tightening the bottom tube but the battery level was still not showing properly (reboots were gone though).
The AW batteries are crappy for the Zna , I don't know why Zen has to promote there use only they can't handle the higher wattage's and sustain the output , I just started putting a little piece of magnet on top of my flat tops and no restarts and it vapes till the battery is about 3.5 volts .
I put in brand new fully charged aw 18650 and it flakes out and restarts at 3.8 and that seems to happen after like 10 uses at 20 w's on a 0.9 coil
I put in brand new fully charged aw 18650 and it flakes out and restarts at 3.8 and that seems to happen after like 10 uses at 20 w's on a 0.9 coil
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