**Sub-Ohm Vaping** Discussion, Safety, Battery Info, & Warnings

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ImThatGuy

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Mr.Mann

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Uh...from the specs... @ 40 AMP 18650 From Vamped | Vapor Hub

Discussion here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/batteries-chargers/574677-vamped-40-amp-18650-2000-mah.html

It looks like 20a continuous and 40 pulse. 2000mah. This is what it looks like unwrapped http://i.imgur.com/RC3jTkW.jpg

For that price, I would rather get known high discharge batteries like the LG, Sony, Orbtronics, AW, and MNKE.

Thanks for the quick response! A new battery with no known history is slightly suspicious to me. Yeah, I don't need it.
 

ForeverDiving

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Or put in other words; why would I (or anybody else) want to push 20 Watts of power through a 0.9Ω build from a freshly charged battery or (heaven forbid) almost 60 Watts through a 0.3Ω build? Right now I have a 0.6Ω dual coil build that I made out of sheer spleen to test a new RDA and had to take it off my mech and get it on a regulated mod that even at 3V is pushing 15W and giving me a horrible (even if pretty substantial) vape that burns my throat.

I'm constantly reading about people going oooh...aaah! about their 0.2~0.3Ω builds —some dual, some triple or quad. I know you get much more power and thus heat through a larger surface of wire with a twin or triple, but 20W, really? I've managed to taste some juices at 13~15W but any higher is detracting from flavor. It may cloud an auditory or conference room but it doestn't lead to better taste (IMHO).

One of the first things I remember learning here was on some voltage/resistance tables that graphically displayed the comfort zone of power for the majority of liquids. 10W was on the frank outside! I've learned that some builds, specially multiples behave well at higher power (12~14W?) but over that it burns the juice, at least to my taste buds and tonsils.

:confused:
 
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FictitiousFreedom

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Well, you have to get really good at building. It takes a while before low ohm builds are satisfying. I only vape at between .18 - .35 and depending on the way I build it I get either better flavor or better vape production. Honestly at this point I can get better flavor using .3 builds rather than 1 ohm or .5 as well as tightening air flow and a tighter drip tip.

It's all in the build and the wicking. I can go to about 100w without sacrificing flavor and that's only because at higher wattage you need more air flow, or it gets rough on your throat. Some people now are going much higher and still enjoying good flavor, I can't go higher than 100w without it being really hot, at that point I have to draw super hard to cool the vape down, which is good for cloud chasing but not all day vaping.

Now as for the different juices being better at different temperatures. True. That's why I use my own juice, certain flavors actually shine at high temps, others taste nasty. You just have to experiment. All of this just takes a lot of practice, time, and experience.

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FictitiousFreedom

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Also, either you don't have enough air flow or the juice your using is high in pg, or it could just be low quality juice. There's always the chance that you are inhaling wrong as well, with lower builds you have to lung inhale, and pretty hard. The bore of your drip tip also makes a huge difference. You can always adjust your air flow, the bore of your dt and how hard yoy inhale until you get a smooth hit.

There are soooo many variables, if you can get them all right you can achieve an amazingly satisfying vape at super high wattage. Good luck man and keep at it, its worth it.

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Mr.Mann

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As FicitiousFreedom pointed out, on thing that can't really be ascertained from simply reading someone's pots is if the vape was "right." We can look at the numbers, yes, or even look at the pictures of a set-up, but it's difficult for us in internet -land to say when indeed it is "right" (but generally you'll know). My point is that I used to think sub-ohming was one thing, that is, until I got it right. Some builds will be hot, yes, but most of my .5Ω builds actually are less intense in TH than that of my Joyetech 510 2.2Ω attys at 4.8v. I am amazed at how smooth the vape is on these low builds. I prefer a wallop of a TH which is one reason why I still use 510 attys, but sub-ohming should not, IMO, burn your throat. Now if you are talking about turning up your 100 w box mod all the way on a ultra-low build, then that's a different story and I can't honestly say I understand why anyone would want to do that -- that is just hot (to me).
 
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FictitiousFreedom

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Your right, the lower you go the hotter it gets, but unless you have the wrong air flow it shouldn't be harsh, at all. You just have to get all of the variables right. That is why people can go to 100-300 watts, they have custom caps with 6-10 air holes. I don't think I would enjoy anything that crazy either, but I've never went over around, 120 watts, and that is super hot, I stop enjoying the vape when the air coming through my drip tip is super hot.

I did notice the other day that a svd at 8watts with a nautilus is "harsher" which isn't the right word, then my changeling and 454 at 80 watts.

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Mr.Mann

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Your right, the lower you go the hotter it gets, but unless you have the wrong air flow it shouldn't be harsh, at all. You just have to get all of the variables right. That is why people can go to 100-300 watts, they have custom caps with 6-10 air holes. I don't think I would enjoy anything that crazy either, but I've never went over around, 120 watts, and that is super hot, I stop enjoying the vape when the air coming through my drip tip is super hot.

I did notice the other day that a svd at 8watts with a nautilus is "harsher" which isn't the right word, then my changeling and 454 at 80 watts.

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Yes. The variables. 100 w on my stock airflow of my attys (even all the way open) would be just not enough cooling. But, the point is the variables make or break it. You can't just achieve high wattage and then say, "I've tried it and it wasn't good." The focus all too often is on the numbers, but without the all important details/variables being made clear, enjoyment will be out of reach.
 

FictitiousFreedom

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The science behind a good vape is really interesting. I'm no mathematician so I couldn't but it would be amazing if someone could create some kind of formula or equation that gave for instance the needed amount of airflow for different amounts of resistance, surface area, inner diameter ect. I'm obviously not the person to even attempt it but we need some mathematical geniuses in the community lol

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Cyrus Vap

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Anyone have any info/insight on the samsung inr18650-25r? I have two 20Rs I've been running since October 2013 and they're still kicking really hard.

Another thing I think about is longevity, but despite my thinking and observing I'm not sure I've come to any conclusion lol :)

I have MNKEs, AW (1600), Samsung 20Rs, Efest "35A" and Sony VTC4...I see a pretty linear trend with all of them, in that they start out giving me 3.98 under load on my hardest hitting mech with my one and only build (duals at ~.525), and over the months predictably get weaker.

Samsungs from October 2013 are down to about 3.92...MNKEs from October are down to 3.83 or so...

I guess the most resilient based on my personal experience is the AW 1600 I have from August 2013, which still hits at 3.9 or a hair more. More resilient it seems than the MNKEs anyway. But who knows, I try to use each battery once in sequence before going to the next, but for all I know I've cycled the MNKEs more so whatevs

Would also love to see some graphs actually comparing the VTC5 to the AW1600, Samsung INR 20 R and 25R, MNKE, Efest/LG 35A, etc. There seems to be a whole lot of "X hits harder" in the vaping world but not much measuring...SuperT had some graphs in the day of the VTC3 which showed the Samung INR 20 looking superior, and the AW1600 looking superior still.
 
Bwaaaahahahahaha!!!

Sub-Ohm.jpg
 

FictitiousFreedom

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Yeah I eat batteries lol I have to buy a new set about every 2 months, I like vtc5s but there have been new batteries finally coming out so hopefully soon the battery technology will catch up to eveything else. It would be really nice if someone created 18650s that had the stats of a 26650.

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pdib

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Okay . . .. . here's a question for the lunghit troopers . ..

I started lung hitting a short while back, and i'm finding that my builds are dropping in resistance. I left off mouth-to-inhale at ~0.45Ω, and now (a couple-3 weeks into it) I'm finding 0.2+Ω to be satisfying. What I'm wondering is: could it be that our lungs get used to a particular degree of irritation [read: pleasure] much more quickly than our mouth and nasals do? 0.45Ω was hitting great in my lung hits just a couple weeks back; now that just isn't doing it for me. Also, too, does this perhaps explain the ever deepening trench of subohming for the lunghitter crew?

just curious .. . . and rapidly descending . .. . :p
 

krisjay

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OK, so after NUMEROUS different builds on my Russian 9, I was having zero luck finding a coil that worked well, horrible flavor, wimpy vapor production, I decided to try a twisted 28g, .65 coil, now I'm getting great flavor and great vapor. My question is, will this sub ohm coil harm, melt, damage the Russian 91, I am using it on a Nemesis clone with Sony VTC4 batteries. This .65 coil is really doing well, hoping it is safe for the Russian 91? Anyone know what's what in this case? Thanks ahead of time.
 
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