Thanks for the tip - I really am a newbie and apologize if I used a term that was a turn off. What you say about filling/wicking material totally makes sense to me. I'm just learning as I go!
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Thanks for the tip - I really am a newbie and apologize if I used a term that was a turn off. What you say about filling/wicking material totally makes sense to me. I'm just learning as I go!
I'm in training now for I just opened a tank and spill e-liq all over my keyboard while trying to change tanks on my mod, in both the 1.5 and 3.0 ml sprints.
Makes no sense to me, same amount of wick touching coil. The fact that its filler to wick instead of vacuum based like a clearomizer makes it less likely to burn if anything...
How does one deal with a tank that spins around on the carto and will not unscrew from the battery?
My wife just dumped a half tank of juice on the counter when she tried to unscrew it from my battery. I just got this tank on Monday and haven't had the chance to explain it all to her
I was able to slide the now nearly empty tank up on the carto as if I were going to fill it, and then got some needle nose pliers on the carto. I'm hoping that's not the best / easiest solution, 'cause I don't have enough room in my day kit for a pair of pliers...
My wife just dumped a half tank of juice on the counter when she tried to unscrew it from my battery. I just got this tank on Monday and haven't had the chance to explain it all to her
I was able to slide the now nearly empty tank up on the carto as if I were going to fill it, and then got some needle nose pliers on the carto. I'm hoping that's not the best / easiest solution, 'cause I don't have enough room in my day kit for a pair of pliers...
How does one deal with a tank that spins around on the carto and will not unscrew from the battery?
My wife just dumped a half tank of juice on the counter when she tried to unscrew it from my battery. I just got this tank on Monday and haven't had the chance to explain it all to her
I was able to slide the now nearly empty tank up on the carto as if I were going to fill it, and then got some needle nose pliers on the carto. I'm hoping that's not the best / easiest solution, 'cause I don't have enough room in my day kit for a pair of pliers...
Your tank's o-rings are not fitting properly. Once a new tank "settles in", the o-rings should hug the carto tight enough so that you can easily remove the tank from your battery device. Tip hint: Don't over-tighten the cartotank on your battery device's connector pin.
When you have the problem that you described, using a tight-fitting drip tip. Remove the tank by turning the drip tip, and not the tank. Make sure the drip tip is secure on the carto, then push the drip tip toward the battery device and turn it counter-clockwise to remove the cartotank.
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Last summer a very large percentage of Boge cartos had some quality issues, affecting the flavor of the juice, either a burnt taste or an odd flavor added. PBusardo did an entire episode on the poor quality of Boges tasting like turkey bacon. There was also the issue of the way Boges were packaged and labeled, with no consistancy from one vendor to another, which created even more mystery about what was going on with Boge's quality control and consistancy.
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Sliding carto tanks with the Slap Yo Mama tool are the easiest (I also used a two way filling tool from Gotvapes). But a locking carto tank makes more sense to me, specially if it'll go around unattended on my carrying case. AGR I found great, two size cartos (regular and XL) and the little screw to fill from the top. But again, when I'm done with the liquid I have to throw away the carto. Not good.
Explained below... Seems no one knows what happened. Try Smoktek Resurrector, those WILL work great!
Ray, the owner, has a very active thread in the supplier section and runs a contest every week. I won my tank about a year ago and it's still going strong - never leaked or anything. I think it looks kind of dorky though, especially on Bobo.
That looks like it's from the Ming dynasty.
Ok, I am a newbie, to this forum. I looked at a lot of videos, and read this forum a lot before I bought my first piece of equipment. I have a tendency to research stuff before I buy. Maybe it comes from being a car buff, and not buying anything that won't work for me.
What follows below is just observation. I am not an expert. I like to try all avenues, to find out how everything works.
I use a Boge XL carto with a Phiniac tank, I have a IBTank, I use a Protank II, I use a mini Davide Glasssomizer, and I have RSST.
I have 3 mods, a Joyetech eGo-C Twist, a Zmax V3 Flattop, and a Provari 2.5.
I got a Phiniac tank, because I did not want the tank sliding up off the carto. I got the IBT, because of the Badguy, I got an XL tanks, because I wanted to do less filling. I got the Boge cartos, because I read they were one of the better ones. I got some plain ones and some prepunched (one small hole, two small holes, one large hole, two large holes and vertical slot), some may not have been Boge. I tried them all. I ended up slotting a couple with jewelers files. I got a carto punch and used it.
After I got past the learning curve, of properly priming my cartos, they all worked, some better than others.
The tanks I slotted worked the best. I slotted one slot. The slots are about 4mm long. They pulled the juice well, did not flood, and worked with all three juices I had. On juice is 10/90, one 50/50, and one 70/30. My Phiniac tank does not like my slotted cartos. The Phiniac tank has such tight tolerances on the orings, that the bottom oring would hang up in the slot, and it would tear the orings. I started punching cartos for the Phiniac. Now I knew from the prepunched cartos, that the largest holes worked best, so I punched big holes. I also learned to punch my cartos in line with the slot in the positive pole on the carto. Maybe I was doing less damage to what was inside. All I know, is punching it there with the punch worked best.
My Protank II, what can I say. It is simple to use, simple to fill, and simple to change heads. The Davide is the same way, but only uses a Ego connection.
I use my RSST, the least. It is not simple, for me. Doesn't hold a lot of juice. Vapes well. I mostly use it for new juices, because it is easy for juice tasting. So far, I still only have the 3 juices. I have used 500 SS mesh with 32 Kanthal A1, Silica wick with 32 Kanthal A1, and Ekowool with Kanthal A1. For me, the Silica was the easiest to use, and was a good vape. I use the SS mesh when trying new juices.
I use 2.2ohm everything. Keeps it simple. Of course, the Boge cartos and Kanger heads, mostly come out to 2.4 ohms. I run most every thing at 4Volts. Seems to work the best for me.
I run the tanks on my Provari. I run the Protank II on the Zmax. I run the Davide on the Twist. I run the RSST on both the Provari and Zmax.
The carto tanks handle the 10/90 juice the best. Good flavor and they last about a week. The Protank and Davide didn't like the 10/90. Both heads gunked up within 2 days. The Davide was the worst. 1st head didn't last a day. Probably because it was not a Kanger head. The RSST, worked ok, but the 10/90 did not wick as well as the 50/50 or 70/30. You had to wait a little after a few hits, so it could catch up.
I have tried all 3 juice in all 4 toppers.
So here is what I observed.
10/90 vapes best on the carto tanks. 50/50 is good on the Protank and the Davide. The refill holes in the base of the Davide are small and the 50/50 does not get into the tank well. The Protank II on the Provari is a tight draw, even with a Hippo. The holes in the 510 connection on the Protank are smaller than the hole on the Boge cartos. Protank II vapes best on the Zmax. The Davide Mini works best on the Twist.
So I use Carto tanks with the 10/90 juice on the Provari. Protank II on the Zmax with 50/50. I use the Davide on the Twist with 70/30. I use 50/50 and less VG juices with the RSST, and on the Provari or Zmax.
With the exception of the RSST, I use the other devices, all day long. If I am going out, I pick one and go. Most a carto tank.
Greg W.
What follows below is just observation. I am not an expert. I like to try all avenues, to find out how everything works.
I use a Boge XL carto with a Phiniac tank, I have a IBTank, I use a Protank II, I use a mini Davide Glasssomizer, and I have RSST.
I have 3 mods, a Joyetech eGo-C Twist, a Zmax V3 Flattop, and a Provari 2.5.
I got a Phiniac tank, because I did not want the tank sliding up off the carto. I got the IBT, because of the Badguy, I got an XL tanks, because I wanted to do less filling. I got the Boge cartos, because I read they were one of the better ones. I got some plain ones and some prepunched (one small hole, two small holes, one large hole, two large holes and vertical slot), some may not have been Boge. I tried them all. I ended up slotting a couple with jewelers files. I got a carto punch and used it.
After I got past the learning curve, of properly priming my cartos, they all worked, some better than others.
The tanks I slotted worked the best. I slotted one slot. The slots are about 4mm long. They pulled the juice well, did not flood, and worked with all three juices I had. On juice is 10/90, one 50/50, and one 70/30. My Phiniac tank does not like my slotted cartos. The Phiniac tank has such tight tolerances on the orings, that the bottom oring would hang up in the slot, and it would tear the orings. I started punching cartos for the Phiniac. Now I knew from the prepunched cartos, that the largest holes worked best, so I punched big holes. I also learned to punch my cartos in line with the slot in the positive pole on the carto. Maybe I was doing less damage to what was inside. All I know, is punching it there with the punch worked best.
My Protank II, what can I say. It is simple to use, simple to fill, and simple to change heads. The Davide is the same way, but only uses a Ego connection.
I use my RSST, the least. It is not simple, for me. Doesn't hold a lot of juice. Vapes well. I mostly use it for new juices, because it is easy for juice tasting. So far, I still only have the 3 juices. I have used 500 SS mesh with 32 Kanthal A1, Silica wick with 32 Kanthal A1, and Ekowool with Kanthal A1. For me, the Silica was the easiest to use, and was a good vape. I use the SS mesh when trying new juices.
I use 2.2ohm everything. Keeps it simple. Of course, the Boge cartos and Kanger heads, mostly come out to 2.4 ohms. I run most every thing at 4Volts. Seems to work the best for me.
I run the tanks on my Provari. I run the Protank II on the Zmax. I run the Davide on the Twist. I run the RSST on both the Provari and Zmax.
The carto tanks handle the 10/90 juice the best. Good flavor and they last about a week. The Protank and Davide didn't like the 10/90. Both heads gunked up within 2 days. The Davide was the worst. 1st head didn't last a day. Probably because it was not a Kanger head. The RSST, worked ok, but the 10/90 did not wick as well as the 50/50 or 70/30. You had to wait a little after a few hits, so it could catch up.
I have tried all 3 juice in all 4 toppers.
So here is what I observed.
10/90 vapes best on the carto tanks. 50/50 is good on the Protank and the Davide. The refill holes in the base of the Davide are small and the 50/50 does not get into the tank well. The Protank II on the Provari is a tight draw, even with a Hippo. The holes in the 510 connection on the Protank are smaller than the hole on the Boge cartos. Protank II vapes best on the Zmax. The Davide Mini works best on the Twist.
So I use Carto tanks with the 10/90 juice on the Provari. Protank II on the Zmax with 50/50. I use the Davide on the Twist with 70/30. I use 50/50 and less VG juices with the RSST, and on the Provari or Zmax.
With the exception of the RSST, I use the other devices, all day long. If I am going out, I pick one and go. Most a carto tank.
Greg W.
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