SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[Junny89]

With cotton remember that "not too tight - not too loose" is the key. When you insert cotton into the micro coil you should have some resistance. It should not be free flowing. And once you feel the resistance just move it back & forth a couple of times so that the cotton sits nicely and softly inside the coil.

Well i realised it was a 3mm id coil. Not a 2.5. Will build again with 2.5 as i have less issues with that. So will do it again but with 2.5 and report back.

Thanks Q!!

 

[raitizz]

Well i realised it was a 3mm id coil. Not a 2.5. Will build again with 2.5 as i have less issues with that. So will do it again but with 2.5 and report back.

Thanks Q!!

.. and I'm gonna try this 3mm coil later today Maybe around 1 - 1.2 Ohms, 5-6 wraps, like HB suggested.

R

 

[qorax]

.. and I'm gonna try this 3mm coil later today Maybe around 1 - 1.2 Ohms, 5-6 wraps, like HB suggested.

R

Be careful with 3mm. It just might be too big of a coil for RTAs, with a dripper it's another matter. 3mm coil will pull in (and hold) more juice vis-a-vis the atomizing capability of the atty. And that could be prone to leaking.

 

[Junny89]

Be careful with 3mm. It just might be too big of a coil for RTAs, with a dripper it's another matter. 3mm coil will pull in (and hold) more juice vis-a-vis the atomizing capability of the atty. And that could be prone to leaking.

That's what exactly what i thought. 2.5seems just right and has been working for me with all previous builds. Don't know why i did 3mm but atleast now i know

 

[raitizz]

Be careful with 3mm. It just might be too big of a coil for RTAs, with a dripper it's another matter. 3mm coil will pull in (and hold) more juice vis-a-vis the atomizing capability of the atty. And that could be prone to leaking.

That's what exactly what i thought. 2.5seems just right and has been working for me with all previous builds. Don't know why i did 3mm but atleast now i know

Ok, then no 3mm coils at this time. Will play around with 2.0, 2.4 and 2.5mm coils.
Thanks.

R

 

[Bronze]

That's what exactly what i thought. 2.5seems just right and has been working for me with all previous builds. Don't know why i did 3mm but atleast now i know

I use 2.0mm so going smaller from 3.0mm should realize an improvement.

 

[qorax]

While on coils I believe these ones' from FT is a neat buy:

Kuro Koiler Wire Coiling Tool (3-Piece Set) - FastTech

Of course they're a clone of the Kuro Coiler - but hey, what the...

Ps.: Btw, they also have another one, kind of a take on the Coil Master here: Wire Coiling Tool + Screwdriver Kit - FastTech

 

[Juggernaut666]

I've been eyeballing this one....

http://www.vaporkings.com/Coil-Building-Jig-Kit-by-Youde-Tech-p/youde-coiljig.htm

sent using a sonic screwdriver

 

[qorax]

I've been eyeballing this one....

Coil Building Jig Kit by Youde Tech

sent using a sonic screwdriver

Nice. Do they work like Kuro Koiler too? I mean "rotate the top cap and you have a perfect micro coil automatically ready".

 

[HBcorpse]

Be careful with 3mm. It just might be too big of a coil for RTAs, with a dripper it's another matter. 3mm coil will pull in (and hold) more juice vis-a-vis the atomizing capability of the atty. And that could be prone to leaking.

Qorax...
I'm currently using a 2.8mm micro coil, with absolutely ZERO issues...and can't imagine 0.2mm making that much more of a difference...

I think the key to running a coil that large in diameter is how high you run the voltage/wattage.
I'm running it at 10 watts, it's a 28g 5-6 wrap 1.4 ohm coil.
Japanese cotton. The thing wicks like a dream. Not that 10 watts is high...but maybe it's the threshold?

Junny, I have a question for you...
Are you making sure to close your juice control, immediately after you put the tank back on?
The way I do mine:
1. Turn KF4 upside down
2. Open JC
3. Unscrew tank
4. Build
5. Turn KF4 upside down
6. Attach tank
7. Close JC
8. Turn KF4 right side up
9. Open top cap
10. Fill
11. Close top cap
12. Open JC

 

[RickCain]

(1)No juice control. (2)Fill it from the juice inlet holes on the chimney. Yes, ''removable deck while tank's full'' feature remains! (3)No replaceable 510 connectors. But separate deck bases available for P3, Semovar, M20/1 and Nemi. Size 9% reduced. KF4-LITE!

On your next refill try just unscrewing the drip tip adapter and refilling. Five refills and no issues - the 510 adapter threads have two slots in them meaning pressure isn't applied until the o-ring seals which seems to reduce the pressure.

 

[KTMRider]

I've been looking at these coil jigs for a while and how I would use it. The Kuro type jigs won't work unless the post comes out so I can use the post while I attach the coil on the deck posts. They might make pretty coils but they're useless if they deform when installing it. I also want to be able to make different size coils w/o buying a bunch of them.

This is the one I'll probably get since it has the sizes I would actually use (2.0mm, 2.5mm and 3.0mm)

$4.66 Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers - aluminum / black / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm winding rods at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[raitizz]

While on coils I believe these ones' from FT is a neat buy:

Kuro Koiler Wire Coiling Tool (3-Piece Set) - FastTech

Of course they're a clone of the Kuro Coiler - but hey, what the...

Ha, ordered this one earlier today. I think they just showed up in the last few days.

R

 

[BNEAT]

On your next refill try just unscrewing the 510 adapter and refilling. Five refills and no issues - the 510 adapter threads have two slots in them meaning pressure isn't applied until the o-ring seals which seems to reduce the pressure.

Do you mean the Drip-tip adapter (Top Nut)? I know that part has two flats on it like you're talking about, and I'm sure they're there for reducing the pressure when you screw it on, like you're describing. I assume you mean without closing the Juice Control, right?

 

[RickCain]

I don't see where fewer connections will help anything, as long as they repeat. I guess if you were to use this on a Mech you might be worried about voltage drop, but who does that anymore?

My guess is the whole idea behind the juice control is for the top fill. Every tank I've tried to fill from the top flooded, including the K4 (when the JC was open) so I doubt a company like SmoëMesto would market a tank with top fill without a way to shut off the juice. like I've said before, without the Juice Control, this tank is nothing new at all. The deck and chamber design is same-old same-old.

Because the best path for an electrical circuit is a direct path. Each "connection" is not only a point of failure but a source of unnecessary added resistance. There is a reason certain RDA's work better in TC mode, it all has to do with the resistance from the chip to the coil.

There is A LOT changed with the KF4 but feel the JC is a feature that introduced too many build challenges that resulted in compromises. I'd rather have the refill method of the Erlkönigin and a real air control on the next revision.

Disclaimer: I do like my KF4 but am always looking how a product could be improved.

 

[RickCain]

Do you mean the Drip-tip adapter (Top Nut)? And I assume you mean without closing the Juice Control?

Yes, coffee hasn't kicked in and Southampton scored while I was typing

 

[sedge]

I've been looking at these coil jigs for a while and how I would use it. The Kuro type jigs won't work unless the post comes out so I can use the post while I attach the coil on the deck posts. They might make pretty coils but they're useless if they deform when installing it. I also want to be able to make different size coils w/o buying a bunch of them.

This is the one I'll probably get since it has the sizes I would actually use (2.0mm, 2.5mm and 3.0mm)

$4.66 Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers - aluminum / black / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm winding rods at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

You can remove the mandrel from the Kuro Coiler to use in mounting your coil on the atty.

Also, they do easily accept other diameter mandrels.

 

[BNEAT]

Because the best path for an electrical circuit is a direct path. Each "connection" is not only a point of failure but a source of unnecessary added resistance. There is a reason certain RDA's work better in TC mode, it all has to do with the resistance from the chip to the coil.

I see what you're saying, but with regulated mods I don't see an issue with added resistance as long as the resistance is stable and repeats.

 

[dems86]

Yes, coffee hasn't kicked in and Southampton scored while I was typing

Tadic comes on from the bench and immediately makes the difference...ball in the back of the net

Smalling fouling Pelle in the box on every single set piece too...Can't believe at least one wasn't called lol

 

[Junny89]

Qorax...
I'm currently using a 2.8mm micro coil, with absolutely ZERO issues...and can't imagine 0.2mm making that much more of a difference...

I think the key to running a coil that large in diameter is how high you run the voltage/wattage.
I'm running it at 10 watts, it's a 28g 5-6 wrap 1.4 ohm coil.
Japanese cotton. The thing wicks like a dream. Not that 10 watts is high...but maybe it's the threshold?

Junny, I have a question for you...
Are you making sure to close your juice control, immediately after you put the tank back on?
The way I do mine:
1. Turn KF4 upside down
2. Open JC
3. Unscrew tank
4. Build
5. Turn KF4 upside down
6. Attach tank
7. Close JC
8. Turn KF4 right side up
9. Open top cap
10. Fill
11. Close top cap
12. Open JC

That's exactly how i do it. However that's only when I'm recoiling. When I'm filling up i close the juice control and unscrew where the drip is. Fill in from the top port. Screw back on then open the juice control.
Like for example now it's a 2.5mm id coil and no issues at all.