SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[Doonagoowin]

Scored this bad boy for 50 bucks! Unfortunately the stickers are gone off the box. It was confirmed authentic by a good friend of mine that is all about high end vape gear, who also owns an authentic K4.
And everything checks out on here too (buttery smooth threads, centered logo, etc). Just a bummer about the stickers...

Having such a hard time with TC though... I wonder if it's because I live in cold Utah, and room temperature really isn't "room temperature". lol

 

[Kaoself]

Awesome price! My SM logo isn't centred and I have no doubt it is original. 1369 purchased from Intaste about 15min after release.

 

[MattB101]

My logo isn't centered either but, I know why. ☺

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[raitizz]

My logo isn't centered either but, I know why. ☺

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

Why?
Mine isn't either, as discussed previously. An authentic is what I have, and I don't believie it has to be centered at all.

R

 

[raitizz]

Scored this bad boy for 50 bucks! Unfortunately the stickers are gone off the box. It was confirmed authentic by a good friend of mine that is all about high end vape gear, who also owns an authentic K4.
And everything checks out on here too (buttery smooth threads, centered logo, etc). Just a bummer about the stickers...

Having such a hard time with TC though... I wonder if it's because I live in cold Utah, and room temperature really isn't "room temperature". lol
View attachment 407336

That almost sounds too good to be true

R

 

[HBcorpse]

Scored this bad boy for 50 bucks! Unfortunately the stickers are gone off the box. It was confirmed authentic by a good friend of mine that is all about high end vape gear, who also owns an authentic K4.
And everything checks out on here too (buttery smooth threads, centered logo, etc). Just a bummer about the stickers...

Having such a hard time with TC though... I wonder if it's because I live in cold Utah, and room temperature really isn't "room temperature". lol
View attachment 407336

People are having mixed luck with TC builds on the KF4, but SvoëMesto has already said it wasn't designed for TC...so keep trying, and maybe chat with some of the folks here who seem to have it down!

 

[jaxgator]

People are having mixed luck with TC builds on the KF4, but SvoëMesto has already said it wasn't designed for TC...so keep trying, and maybe chat with some of the folks here who seem to have it down!

I am having success with TP vaping the KF4. With the DNA40, it's all about connections. As long as I have my leads clamped down tight, the JC fully open and the 510 secure, it stays in TP mode.

The only issue is that the resistance is a little higher than with the same build on my Erls. On my Erls it will read .14-.16Ω and the same build on the KF4 will read .18-.20Ω.

 

[Bronze]

Just got notification- my AUTHENTIC Kayfun 4 has just shipped out.

Now, I won't be happy if SvoeMesto makes some changes soon (that I've been reading around may happen) but at least I know I bougt the real deal this time from an authorized dealer!

Serial number or it didn't happen.

 

[raitizz]

Serial number or it didn't happen.

..with a pic, of course.

R

 

[Doonagoowin]

I thought I had it earlier! Wrapped my first spaced coil. Stayed a consistent 0.22Ω for a good 30 minutes. Then now it's fluctuating up to 0.39Ω.
Bah!!

I crank everything down tight, even go as far as taking a tiny allen key and twisting the JC to fully open. 510 pin doesn't spin out.

I think I'm gonna throw in the towel and wrap some kanthal and just enjoy the VV/VW... lol

EDIT: Right after posting this, I played with the connections some more and got it to hold 0.20Ω.... This headache is not worth it LOL

 

[Kaoself]

I do hope these changes to the Kayfun 4 are able to be retroactively applied to the first batch. A couple of changed parts in a little baggie like the spares kits will make my bank account a lot happier than having to buy an entire new KF4.1. Though I wouldn't think the latter would happen as there would be a myriad of extremely unhappy KF4 purchasers. Plus it would damage SM sales for the future as the next KF iteration would have countless people holding off in fear that an upgrade would be necessary a few months later.

 

[dems86]

Heads up, InTaste just added more stock of our lovely K4 for anyone still looking for one or wanting to grab a second.

It's also a sweet deal when ordering from them if you don't live in a country that requires you pay the VAT tax

 

[Eric in NJ]

I thought I had it earlier! Wrapped my first spaced coil. Stayed a consistent 0.22Ω for a good 30 minutes. Then now it's fluctuating up to 0.39Ω.
Bah!!

I crank everything down tight, even go as far as taking a tiny allen key and twisting the JC to fully open. 510 pin doesn't spin out.

I think I'm gonna throw in the towel and wrap some kanthal and just enjoy the VV/VW... lol

EDIT: Right after posting this, I played with the connections some more and got it to hold 0.20Ω.... This headache is not worth it LOL

You got to have all your connections tight that come in contact with the circuit (the coil needs to be really secure under the screws. You should be able to grab the excess wire with your fingers and move it around until it breaks off without the coil moving. You can also take a very fine grit nail file and buff up (don't go crazy with this, you are just trying to get the surface scuffed up a little so everything makes full contact) the spring a bit on both ends. Hit the 510 screw head with the file and the square flat nut that the 510 screw screws into in the juice control, only on the metal face . I did this with my clone and got a little better readings but its still way off.

Both of my authentic's work great with TP with no adjustments, I did file the bottom 510 screw on the newest one a bit because it had a little bump on it, not sure it would have caused a problem but I did it anyway. I can rewick them both and when I put them back together they are still the same .12ohm.

 

[Junny89]

Btw has anyone noticed any discolouration of the spring? I'm assuming it looses it's impact on conductivity? Mine isn't silver, it's gone browny white even with cleaning with isopropyl.

Anyone else had this?

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

 

[raitizz]

Btw has anyone noticed any discolouration of the spring? I'm assuming it looses it's impact on conductivity? Mine isn't silver, it's gone browny white even with cleaning with isopropyl.

Anyone else had this?

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

Haven't noticed, gonna check next time I disassemble..

R

 

[Junny89]

Btw has anyone noticed any discolouration of the spring? I'm assuming it looses it's impact on conductivity? Mine isn't silver, it's gone browny white even with cleaning with isopropyl.

Anyone else had this?

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

Haven't noticed, gonna check next time I disassemble..

R

Reason i ask is because lately using 28g kanthal, my resistance varies from 1.6 to 1.7 to 1.8. It doesn't happen often and usually rectifies itself soon after. Just is annoying sometimes.
So i opened it all up and found my spring in a totally different look to what it was before.
Just curious if it hinders the ohms in some way....

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

 

[raitizz]

Reason i ask is because lately using 28g kanthal, my resistance varies from 1.6 to 1.7 to 1.8. It doesn't happen often and usually rectifies itself soon after. Just is annoying sometimes.
So i opened it all up and found my spring in a totally different look to what it was before.
Just curious if it hinders the ohms in some way....

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

Mine varies too, but not as much as when the base screw (not pin screw, but the Nr.9) was loose. Then the P3 just went haywire..
I have a 28ga 1.2Ohm build and it sometimes shows 1.3 and then 1.4 and then 1.2 again. Mostly it's stable 1.2.

R

 

[Junny89]

Mine varies too, but not as much as when the base screw (not pin screw, but the Nr.9) was loose. Then the P3 just went haywire..
I have a 28ga 1.2Ohm build and it sometimes shows 1.3 and then 1.4 and then 1.2 again. Mostly it's stable 1.2.

R

You this happens to me. It's not haywire, just casually decides to go higher lol

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[raitizz]

You this happens to me. It's not haywire, just casually decides to go higher lol

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk

No no, when the screw was loose, the device sometimes showed "no atty" or "resistance too low" or "lower your power" etc., that's what I meant with haywire. That was fixed when I tightened the screw.

What you have is happening when all is tight on a daily basis.

R

 

[Junny89]

Oh forgot to share my unfortunate experience

So i was vaping and driving, of course police saw me. Pulled me over, totally forgot to put my k4 p3 on the side. Was in my lap...got out and it fell tip first on the floor!!
Picked it up cleaned it all up, vaped ok which is great!
However has a few scratches here and there on the k4, the glass has a huge crack!!!
Needless to say i threw it out and put on the plastic one it came with. Cloud9 are all sold out of the glass atm.
P3 has 3 dings in it too

I know was my fault but thought I'd share with the rest. If you're vaping and driving ALWAYS put it to one side otherwise you will forget and it will fall out when you get out!

To put the plastic tank on you need to take off the two silver rings which have also got scratches on. Not taken any pics off them as i took them off.

Not sure if in the pics you can see the damage on the p3 as it's hard to see it properly with my clear carbon wrap on. Don't want to take it off to see the damage!

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