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snow blind

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Once I get through this tank, I will look at my build/wick again and see what I may have done wrong to avoid dry hits and not have to open the top cap in the future. I'm thinking my wicks are a tad too long but not sure. How high or low should the coil sit to the deck for the best results?

If you want a full-proof Kayfun V4 (or any Kayfun for that matter) wick/coil set up try this out... I've recently switched a month or so back to larger macro, spaced coils and a shorter wick length... it's been unbelievable in all my Kayfuns!


Wrap yourself a 3mm i.d. good old contact coil (wraps all touching) with 28 to get you to 1.2-1.4ohm. (seems the sweet spot for this build)

Attach the coil, dry fire, let cool, insert mandrel/drill bit if you use one to lift the coil about 2mm above the air hole. We're talking completely perpendicular coil... none of that angled garbage lol.

Pull each end of the coil apart slightly with your fingernails, tweezers etc. then space each coil out a teeny, tiny bit... the pulling should do 99% of the spacing. The effect you're looking for is a SLIGHTLY spaced coil that's perfectly spaced. (you can also do this before attaching the coil... works just as well)

Take your cotton (Japanese cotton pads or any with all parallel strands work the best) and wick... keeping it thick and fluffy, but not "tight" directly inside the coil. I'll take both ends of the wick in opposite hands and then pull back and forth sort of creating proper thickness by letting the i.d. of the coil abrade parts of the cotton that are too tight... they will fuzz off and gently remove them. Pull it out... reinsert from the same side you did previously... feel for resistance... keep "thinning" any bit you need until you can slide it though nice and easy but the coil is completely "full" i.d. of wick. The resistance should be one that you would JUST be able to pull the wick through the coil with one hand with the atomizer base screwed into a mech mod (with battery) and it wouldnt fall over.

Remove the wick. Yes. Really. That whole "fitting process" was just to let the inside of the coil create the proper thickness of wick.

Screw chimney base down and insert your wick. Your coil should be high enough that the wick is just able to be inserted easily above the chimney's top edges. Cut one end of the wick and measure somewhere around 20mm (youll have to figure this out... i use 21mm for mine) you'll want each tail of wick to rest ever so slightly above the deck below with the juice holes. Fluff edges.

Insert the wick (dry, no juice yet) tails into the chimney sides so that the cut faces are directly facing the juice holes... not just stuffed into there. I use my pointer finger on the fluffy cut edge, put pressure towards the coil and bend each end up into a "rainbow" so that the cut face can be slipped inside each chimney/deck cavity.

Make sure the wick is all evenly spread out each side of the coil... nice and fluffy... saturate with juice.. fill tank... done.

No dry hits... absolute perfect wicking... really surprised myself when i stumbled upon this. I've been using Kayfuns since day one and this just beats every single setup i've ever attempted.


.... ok... worlds longest wick tip post lol.
 

Light Seeker

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That's exactly how I do it, and the only way I could get it to wick....well, sorta wick: I still get a dry hit every now and then
I was getting occasional dry hits using cotton with hi VG juice, especially when chain vaped. Switched to rayon, no dry hits for several weeks now.
 

jaxgator

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Once I get through this tank, I will look at my build/wick again and see what I may have done wrong to avoid dry hits and not have to open the top cap in the future. I'm thinking my wicks are a tad too long but not sure. How high or low should the coil sit to the deck for the best results?

That's one of the beauties of the version 4. You don't need to finish that tank in order to inspect/replace the coil and/or wick.
 

Bronze

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I for one, am glad I got the Authentic after having a POS counterfeit. HUGE difference in all the moving parts and pieces actually working. With that said, still a learning curve for me getting the wick/builds just right to avoid dry hits.

Great tip I did read through the threads (thx MTek!) is twisting open slightly the drip tip area, quickly, with the JC open to kinda force the bubbles/wicking and problem solved.

Once I get through this tank, I will look at my build/wick again and see what I may have done wrong to avoid dry hits and not have to open the top cap in the future. I'm thinking my wicks are a tad too long but not sure. How high or low should the coil sit to the deck for the best results?

Angie, with regard to KFL's, a common mistake people make is they think they need less cotton and not more. The exact opposite is true in many cases. I cannot speak for what your builds are, just be sure the tails reach the deck so they can sop up the juice. And be sure you have enough cotton stuffed inside your coil. You will be hard pressed to put too much inside your coil.
 

snow blind

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Angie, with regard to KFL's, a common mistake people make is they think they need less cotton and not more. The exact opposite is true in many cases. I cannot speak for what your builds are, just be sure the tails reach the deck so they can sop up the juice. And be sure you have enough cotton stuffed inside your coil. You will be hard pressed to put too much inside your coil.

I personally think it's a fine balance that needs to be struck with Kayfun wicking. Too much wick in coil you create juice wicking blockages... too little the wick shrinks when juice vaporizes and will pull away from the inside of the coil and eventually wear away, even burn out under higher wattages.

That middle ground is where it's at. Also you should really try (if you havent before) a setup like i mentioned above where the wicks do not touch the deck in the V4... but lie just ever so slightly above it... it allows for a constant pool of juice to form and sit below the wicks offering a sort of "reserve" for wicking when needed as it is already inside the chamber and doesn't have to take it's time entering through the juice network below the deck. It's extra juice, that cannot be absorbed into your fully saturated wick, that is available instantly when you exhaust the supply that is in that wick. 100x's better that a wick touching... and for years i ALWAYS wicked my Kayfuns so the wicks touched.
 

Bronze

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I personally think it's a fine balance that needs to be struck with Kayfun wicking. Too much wick in coil you create juice wicking blockages... too little the wick shrinks when juice vaporizes and will pull away from the inside of the coil and eventually wear away, even burn out under higher wattages.

That middle ground is where it's at. Also you should really try (if you havent before) a setup like i mentioned above where the wicks do not touch the deck in the V4... but lie just ever so slightly above it... it allows for a constant pool of juice to form and sit below the wicks offering a sort of "reserve" for wicking when needed as it is already inside the chamber and doesn't have to take it's time entering through the juice network below the deck. It's extra juice, that cannot be absorbed into your fully saturated wick, that is available instantly when you exhaust the supply that is in that wick. 100x's better that a wick touching... and for years i ALWAYS wicked my Kayfuns so the wicks touched.

Myself and VapeDiver (from the KFL thread) both experimented with cotton amounts. Neither one of us could stuff enough cotton in our coils to cause a dry hit. But we were able to produce a dry hit by reducing the amount of cotton in our coil. Length is an altogether different factor. At minimum, the tails have to reach the deck. From there, it is fairly forgiving. But it gets to a point where you can stuff the juice flow shut. And I suspect thicker juices exacerbate juice flow problems. I just ake sure the juice channels are not obstructed. Just what we found and not speaking for anyone else.
 

Bronze

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This same conversation has come up several times in this thread, but still no ah-ha moment

Gotta go what works for each individual. All I know is I never experienced a single dry hit in the 18 months I owned my SM KFLs until I intentionally reduced the amount of cotton I put inside the coil. Perhaps 70/30 blends work in anything. Who knows.
 

AngiBe

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That's one of the beauties of the version 4. You don't need to finish that tank in order to inspect/replace the coil and/or wick.

Agreed, but after multiple attemps of rewicking, I gave up and tried the top cap open quickly method and it worked. And there's (as you can read) conflicting tips on more wick, less wick, long tails, short tails so I guess that's what makes it a bit confusing.

I tried less wick and more and no luck so I'm thinking length is possibly the issue. My first Kayfun so I'm trying to figure it out. It's quite a bit more "fussy" than most toppers I have and most that I have need less wick versus more. Funny thing is, my 1st set up worked awesome. It was when I rebuilt/rewicked I got the issues. And probably bcoz I haven't made a build above .70 ohms in a long time so I'm a bit rusty w/higher ohm coils.

But when it is set up right, it's awesome.
 
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Bronze

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Agreed, but after multiple attemps of rewicking, I gave up and tried the top cap open quickly method and it worked. And there's (as you can read) conflicting tips on more wick, less wick, long tails, short tails so I guess that's what makes it a bit confusing.

I tried less wick and more and no luck so I'm thinking length is possibly the issue. My first Kayfun so I'm trying to figure it out. It's quite a bit more "fussy" than most toppers I have and most that I have need less wick versus more. Funny thing is, my 1st set up worked awesome. It was when I rebuilt/rewicked I got the issues. And probably bcoz I haven't made a build above .70 ohms in a long time so I'm a bit rusty w/higher ohm coils.

But when it is set up right, it's awesome.

You'll figure it out eventually.
 

snow blind

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Gotta go what works for each individual. All I know is I never experienced a single dry hit in the 18 months I owned my SM KFLs until I intentionally reduced the amount of cotton I put inside the coil. Perhaps 70/30 blends work in anything. Who knows.

Completely right. So many setups, possibilities and factors... lots of stuff will "work" in these great little devices.

I've also been super lucky with years of vaping my Kayfuns... V1's through my recent 4(clone) with minimal dry hits. Usually dry hits would be my fault bumping up the wattage way too far for the given coil. And i agree... more cotton is always better than less as far is inside the coil is concerned.

70/30 blends (PG biased i assume?) are almost impossible to wick poorly... they just flow like water. 100 unflavored, no nic VG... now that can be a pain regardless of setup.
 

Bronze

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Completely right. So many setups, possibilities and factors... lots of stuff will "work" in these great little devices.

I've also been super lucky with years of vaping my Kayfuns... V1's through my recent 4(clone) with minimal dry hits. Usually dry hits would be my fault bumping up the wattage way too far for the given coil. And i agree... more cotton is always better than less as far is inside the coil is concerned.

70/30 blends (PG biased i assume?) are almost impossible to wick poorly... they just flow like water. 100 unflavored, no nic VG... now that can be a pain regardless of setup.

And I really think this is the cause of why there are so many varying "solutions" for wicking. I often wonder if a 70/30 person should be helping a 0/100 person or visa versa. It's like a banana telling an orange how to peel itself. :)
 

snow blind

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And I really think this is the cause of why there are so many varying "solutions" for wicking. I often wonder if a 70/30 person should be helping a 0/100 person or visa versa. It's like a banana telling an orange how to peel itself. :)

Agreed! Though everyone should learn to wick in the most efficient manner (imho)... if you can wick max VG... max PG won't be a prob.
 

AngiBe

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I vape mostly 50 or higher PG. Can't do high VG unless I want sinus issues (but I do have to have Boba's & Gorilla Juice on occasion..I just pay for it that night or the next day). So even w/"thin" juice, still had dry hits.

Like Bronze, said, I will figure it out. Just a matter of playing around with it more.
 

MattB101

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It's been mostly good. I have 4 clones and am happy with them so far.




Get on that! :p




I didn't think it was worth it either so I ordered a clone to try out. Ran into a few issues that were easily fixed and now have 4. I have mixed feelings about the functional design. I LOVE the top filling feature as you don't need any special tips but the spring that carries current is a pretty big fail. Not as much of an issue with kanthal but with nickel, it can be an issue especially if you open and close the JC a lot. I'm moving to DNA40 devices so it matters to me. It's worth dealing with for a $20 atomizer but not a $180 one.

I too only have a clone. Didn't work well at first and I ordered the "large" parts kit for 13 bucks and now all the important parts and orings are original.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 
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