Well it has a larger contact area than the positive.I wonder if that effects the efficiency of the connection. Smaller contact area.
Well it has a larger contact area than the positive.I wonder if that effects the efficiency of the connection. Smaller contact area.
Well, that's true. I suppose if it's pressing hard on the post it should be at least as solid as the positive pin.Well it has a larger contact area than the positive.
I got good results using 28 gauge SS430, 6 wraps about 2.5 mm id @ 30 watts.Anybody got a recommended build for restricted DL in the Bantam box? I'm using the 10A (Mooch says maybe 9A) CDR Keeppower 18350s which restricts the build for DL. I've tried a few Insider and Vapeshell builds that were ok but I'm looking for new inspiration.
Thanks in advance!![]()
Anybody got a recommended build for restricted DL in the Bantam box? I'm using the 10A (Mooch says maybe 9A) CDR Keeppower 18350s which restricts the build for DL. I've tried a few Insider and Vapeshell builds that were ok but I'm looking for new inspiration.
Thanks in advance!![]()
I ordered and paid for myI've experimented with 27 and 28 gauge kanthal, 2.5 and 3mm, in my Vapeshell. The best flavor and vapor so far is a 1 ohm, 3mm, 4/5 wrap of 28 gauge kanthal, with koh gen do organic cotton wicking at 25W.![]()
I have no idea, what part of the post breaks?So there is a titanium alloy xeta incoming on ftech, any idea if that is to solve the issue with posts breaking?
The positive post can break at the thinnest point along the edge of the screw holes. It's avoidable if you're aware of it and just don't tighten beyond what is necessary to get the coil tight and resistance stable. It's a thing. Haku even made a beefed up positive post to address it in the authentic.I have no idea, what part of the post breaks?
Does it get better if you really snug down the nut?Has anybody else noticed inaccurate and fluctuating resistance readings on the Bantam? My current build reads 0.98 Ohms on a dna 60 BB but is anywhere between 1.1 and 1.3 Ohms on the Bantam. Every time I press the fire button it gives a slightly different reading. It reminds me of the board in the 70W SXK BB but even more flighty. Sometimes it's giving a "check atomizer" fault too. I've cleaned the contacts with Deoxit but that hasn't made a noticeable difference.
NoDoes it get better if you really snug down the nut?
not something i could probably afford to take off your hands but give me a shout before you list just in casePondering getting rid of my authentic Billet Box and all of its accessories, doesn't see much use these days.
I'll post a list in the classies when the time comes.
Hmmm. My Billet Boxes acted like that sometimes until I beveled the top of my boros.
Will do good sir.not something i could probably afford to take off your hands but give me a shout before you list just in case
That's interesting. I'll give that a try- do you have a photo of a beveled boro ?Hmmm. My Billet Boxes acted like that sometimes until I beveled the top of my boros.
I don't know.